Author Topic: 2022 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Read 4143 times)

Flyin6 · « **Reply #100 on:** June 28, 2022, 08:24:45 PM »

Next I removed the stock engine guard in favor of some proper crash bars

Flyin6 · « **Reply #101 on:** June 28, 2022, 08:25:40 PM »

SRC Motorsports is one of two companies currently building crash bars for the Gen 3 KLR

They come well packaged

Flyin6 · « **Reply #102 on:** June 28, 2022, 08:28:35 PM »

They are pretty robust. They bolt onto the foot peg mounts, to the front frame and to the front engine mount, and bolt together to form a complete cage

I am very happy with these. They even come with a couple of scuff pads for that eventual tip over.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #103 on:** June 28, 2022, 08:29:29 PM »

Minus a good GPS, and its first oil change, the bike is ready to get out into the Daniel Boone National Forest

JR · « **Reply #104 on:** June 28, 2022, 11:54:47 PM »

You could probably find another inner pipe and play with the noise by drilling some holes.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #105 on:** June 29, 2022, 11:20:54 AM »

Quote from: JR on June 28, 2022, 11:54:47 PM

You could probably find another inner pipe and play with the noise by drilling some holes.

Now, that's an interesting idea!

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #106 on:** June 29, 2022, 06:08:17 PM »

Took me a min to find these. Used to use them on ATV’s to help with airflow but not allow all the debris inside the box. Simple hole and plug with little filter.
One point I had a Yamaha warrior with the hole air box lid covered with these

Might be useful

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/uni-filter-air-box-vents-p

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #107 on:** June 29, 2022, 06:11:13 PM »

These also popped up on my search. They look pretty awesome

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/kawasaki-led-auxiliary-light-set-p

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #108 on:** July 01, 2022, 11:24:21 AM »

Quote from: Bigdave_185 on June 29, 2022, 06:11:13 PM

These also popped up on my search. They look pretty awesome

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/kawasaki-led-auxiliary-light-set-p

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Those are pretty cool!

JR...I drilled a 1/2" hole in the "Bulb" end of that insert and popped it back in. Made a pleasing difference...Good idea!

So I have been test driving the thing around. It has the right spring for sure. I ride near the top of the shock, so I removed all of the preload, which helped some. I ride maybe an inch and a half down into the stroke, so by the time I add 50 lbs. of camping gear on the bike it should be perfect.

But

I am on my tippy toes, it has gotten so tall.

I believe I will need to take those "Lift links" from the shock linkage and go back to stock. It is my belief I should at the most be balls of my feet flat on the ground. Those links easily raised the bike an inch, so that will/should come back out.

I'll swap them back to stock and get another ride in. Oh, and the tires are Mucho-Bueno so far!

I am just beginning to see it, but when the front and the rear suspensions were both much, I was riding a mushy soup. Now that the rear has "thickened up" I see a bunch of play in the front I did not notice before. Meaning: I will need to add the appropriate springs in the front fork tubes as well, so that's the next project.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #109 on:** July 09, 2022, 08:21:05 PM »

I picked up some JNS Engineering lowering foot pegs. These units are solid mounted unlike the rubber-mounted factory units, a feature I would have liked to keep. They move the rider's feet 1.5" lower and 1" aft of stock. That is just perfect for me. With boots, I was pretty crowded to the factory shifter and I felt my knees were a bit too tall in the saddle
Configuring a bike is a completely subjective personalization to get the factory machine to fit you better. I have raised the suspension, stiffened the rear spring, raised the handlebars 1.5", and now lowered the foot pegs 1.5". Going for a short ride today after modification, I have to say, I am really getting this bike to fit. I sit upright and tall in the saddle and centered over everything. The shifter fits better and the brake, is, well OK I guess, as I seldom use it.
Here's what comes in the package:

Flyin6 · « **Reply #110 on:** July 09, 2022, 08:22:00 PM »

Easy to see the much lower and more compact placement of the foot pegs

Flyin6 · « **Reply #111 on:** July 09, 2022, 08:22:55 PM »

They are pretty robust. I have experience with these. Some may remember bolting a set onto my DR-650 Suzy

Flyin6 · « **Reply #112 on:** July 09, 2022, 08:25:22 PM »

While I was crawling around and getting greasy, I popped off the lift links that jacked up the rear until I was tippy-toed and bolted the stockers back on. Since the suspension only sags a little when I pop on now, the bike did not need to be sky-high tall. I can now almost flat-foot and tossing on 70 odd pounds of camping gear will level it out just fine, I think.
I used blue Loctite on everything since they will be more prone to loosening due to vibration, especially since there is no longer any rubber dampening

JR · « **Reply #113 on:** July 09, 2022, 10:05:08 PM »

Nice they still sit above the frame but what about that little support? Not needed with non rubber mounts?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #114 on:** July 09, 2022, 10:38:26 PM »

Quote from: JR on July 09, 2022, 10:05:08 PM

Nice they still sit above the frame but what about that little support? Not needed with nonrubber mounts?

No, not needed. That was the limit to keep from tearing the rubber bushings out of the mount...for high loads like standing on the footrests. Solid mounts no usey.

Flyin6 · « **Reply #115 on:** July 10, 2022, 05:56:25 PM »

Put a good solid 120 miles of back country KY roads this afternoon.

I took it easy for awhile but in the end I was bending it down in the corners and riding it like I stole it.

The new shock spring is now showing me the rest of the bike wiggling around in hard turns with bumps. I will need to address the front forks for sure.

The riding position is now very good. The intake sound is now pronounced since the removal of the snorkel

It needs more power, say 10 RWHP will do it, so the 705 or 719 big bore kit just advanced on the list of "I wanna do" stuff.

The bike is great, if you don't mind waiting for the speedo needle to move clockwise. I guess, I don't mind so much. I would like the power to loft the front wheel in second, so maybe I'll go lookin for the ponies.

The Shinko tires work really well. When I'd hit a tar snake, it would slide a bit and then grab the pavement. I slid around on some gravel on the road, and it did so in a controlled manner.

Overall, I'm giving this bike high marks. With all the mods along with the cost of the bike itself, I am still thousands under the cost of a Temere700 or a KTM 890R, my other choices for a dirt oriented adventure bike

JR · « **Reply #116 on:** July 10, 2022, 06:03:43 PM »

Sounds like fun. Less wight is HP too, so dump all the extra stuff when not in use.

10hp, sounds like a tune and intake work. It is EFI right

Flyin6 · « **Reply #117 on:** July 10, 2022, 09:23:01 PM »

Quote from: JR on July 10, 2022, 06:03:43 PM

Sounds like fun. Less wight is HP too, so dump all the extra stuff when not in use.

10hp, sounds like a tune and intake work. It is EFI right

Yes, EFI

Adding just 5 hp to this bike is a challenge. But the overbores of the past were small, topping at 685cc A 719cc will be almost 100% more CC increase over the 685. Then some mid range cams will work better, and the next up valve size will seal the deal. 705's are putting down 47RWHP whereas stockers only put down 33-35. So almost a 50% increase. People that do it report a great running bike that still tractors up steep slow hills but can now hold with 70-75 mph highway traffic pretty effortlessly. Right now, I am pushing the top end of the envelope at 70 with very little left to wide open.

JR · « **Reply #118 on:** July 10, 2022, 09:47:57 PM »

What about just a cam and tune? 70 seems a little slow really, no "get away speed"

Sue I haven't told you anything you don't know or thought about. But not having to tear the cylinder off and spend $$$?

Flyin6 · « **Reply #119 on:** July 11, 2022, 03:14:13 PM »

Quote from: JR on July 10, 2022, 09:47:57 PM

What about just a cam and tune? 70 seems a little slow really, no "get away speed"

Sue I haven't told you anything you don't know or thought about. But not having to tear the cylinder off and spend $$$?

Ya, it's like Kawasaki purposely designed this motor to be a tractor engine with no real power. Not like other bikes at all, KLR's are really underpowered. Feels like a slow KTM 250