Author Topic: My first garage! (Read 28606 times)

rpar86 · « **Reply #50 on:** January 22, 2016, 08:09:31 PM »

Ahhh this brings back memories... Looking good!

http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=1463.0

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #51 on:** January 23, 2016, 10:33:09 PM »

Coming right along!

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rcampbell · « **Reply #52 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:15:04 PM »

Had a busy weekend. Had to respond to two fire calls, and only got 3 hours of sleep Friday night because of it, but I manage to get supplies, do all the insulation and install the vapor barrier. The latter I had to do by work light since the sun had gone down!

Nate · « **Reply #53 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:35:44 PM »

stlaser · « **Reply #54 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:42:55 PM »

Looking good...

KensAuto · « **Reply #55 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:50:03 PM »

Looks like you busted some tail. Nice job.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #56 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:58:58 PM »

That's gettin r dun there!

stlaser · « **Reply #57 on:** January 24, 2016, 08:36:00 PM »

what's the plan for electric?

rcampbell · « **Reply #58 on:** January 24, 2016, 09:07:18 PM »

All the electric stuff is going to be surface mount (hence no boxes on any of the studs). The interior sheathing will be 1/2 G1S plywood. I really like the ability to change or add to surface mounted plugs, lights etc. Since stuff like air compressor line will be surface mounted anyway, I figure I can do it in such a way that it will still look, perhaps a little industrial, but nice nonetheless.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #59 on:** January 24, 2016, 09:28:51 PM »

I love the look of plywood as the sheathing, that's what I'm planning for my shop too.

Looking great boss

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JR · « **Reply #60 on:** January 24, 2016, 10:07:24 PM »

Looking good!!

What happen to the Roxul?

rcampbell · « **Reply #61 on:** January 25, 2016, 07:23:12 AM »

Roxul was about 15% more money for about 40% less square feet per bag. Since it's a garage, I didn't feel it was worth paying almost double, since it won't be heated all the time anyway. Too bad though, I've heard good things about it.

Sammconn · « **Reply #62 on:** January 25, 2016, 07:30:35 AM »

You had a busy weekend. Looks good. Plywood on ceiling as well?

rcampbell · « **Reply #63 on:** January 25, 2016, 08:33:49 AM »

Quote from: Sammconn on January 25, 2016, 07:30:35 AM

You had a busy weekend. Looks good. Plywood on ceiling as well?

I had thought of maybe just doing drywall on the ceiling to cut back on costs. I will just be putting up 18 lamp holders in 3 rows of 6, so there won't be any big fixtures or anything up there. Can't really think of any reason to use plywood. And at $47 a sheet, that's a good reason to use it sparingly :)

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #64 on:** January 25, 2016, 08:57:43 AM »

Dang that is expensive for 1/2 ply!

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Bear9350 · « **Reply #65 on:** January 25, 2016, 09:06:04 AM »

Quote from: Dawg25385 on January 25, 2016, 08:57:43 AM

Dang that is expensive for 1/2 ply!

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I hope he meant $17?? Atleast that would be close to sanded one-side 1/2" ply for me.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #66 on:** January 25, 2016, 09:16:26 AM »

$20 a sheet where I'm at for 19/32

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rcampbell · « **Reply #67 on:** January 25, 2016, 10:31:14 AM »

Yup it's expensive stuff. I could get the 1/2" with knots on both sides for like $27, but I want it to look nice so I got the "fancy" stuff. Feel free to send me some samples of your cheap plywood and I'll give it a fair evaluation! 8)

Bear9350 · « **Reply #68 on:** January 25, 2016, 10:44:03 AM »

I will be stopping into the Menard's tonight for more supplies. I will take some pics of our selections.

We have the standard 3 or 4 ply stuff that would have knots both sides.

Then the sanded one side plywood. This stuff looks pretty good on one side with knots on the other. You wouldn't want to use it for cabinet making etc.. where you would be staining but if your painting it looks ok. That is under $20 for a 4x8 sheet.

Then the expensive stuff.. sanded veneered plywood. Generally used for cabinet making etc... can be oak/ maple etc... veneer that would look good stained. That stuff is generally around $40 - $50 a sheet.

JR · « **Reply #69 on:** January 25, 2016, 01:41:37 PM »

Even though ply is nice there is no fire protection there. Ply with rock over it is better and you cover the knots.

Nate · « **Reply #70 on:** January 25, 2016, 01:45:34 PM »

cant really argue with safety like that ? ???

Bear9350 · « **Reply #71 on:** January 25, 2016, 03:14:12 PM »

There is fire retardant plywood. Not sure how it compares to drywall. Pricey compared to normal plywood and drywall too.

JR · « **Reply #72 on:** January 25, 2016, 04:28:04 PM »

When I has a garage fire, the rock saved my house. Cheap, easy and it looks good.

rcampbell · « **Reply #73 on:** January 25, 2016, 05:55:17 PM »

I had originally decided against drywall just because it doesn't take many dings to wreck. On the other hand, I've been in lots of burning houses, and plywood doesn't take long to disappear in a fire.I had also thought of putting steel on the sides of the garage up 4 feet high. My back wall is already concrete up to 4 feet, so that should be pretty fire resistant back there.

rcampbell · « **Reply #74 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:26:22 PM »

The roof is now shingled! Which is great since we're supposed to get a little snow on Friday. Doors and windows soon.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #75 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:28:55 PM »

Quote from: rcampbell on January 27, 2016, 08:26:22 PM

The roof is now shingled! Which is great since we're supposed to get a little snow on Friday. Doors and windows soon.

Awesome!

JR · « **Reply #76 on:** January 27, 2016, 10:24:52 PM »

Good, I worked under a tarp for many a night before mine was on.

Adding a room upstairs soon. Kinda redid my roof with that in mind. Pricing materials today, who said there is no inflation!

I was one of those, it could never happen to me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

rcampbell · « **Reply #77 on:** February 08, 2016, 12:09:02 PM »

Made some progress this weekend. Garage doors are in, windows are in, man door goes in tomorrow, and siding will be finished Wednesday. I decided, since plywood is so costly, that the top 6 feet of wall will be drywall and the bottom 4 feet will be plywood (or concrete in the back and sloped concrete on the side). I figured the bottom f feet would be most susceptible to damage, so it was a fair compromise I thought. So with that plan in mind, I got all the drywall up yesterday, bought a breaker panel and put plywood on the wall to mount the panel on.

Next steps are to rough in the lights and plugs and get panel mounted and wires ran from house to garage. Going to run two conduits underground, one for power and also a 3/4" conduit for ethernet, phone, intercom, camera etc. May not need it all now, but it's the easiest time to get it all in.

stlaser · « **Reply #78 on:** February 08, 2016, 01:06:01 PM »

Pics or it didn't happen......

Bear9350 · « **Reply #79 on:** February 08, 2016, 01:25:59 PM »

You might want to consider running something a little larger than 3/4". 1" isn't that much more expensive but it does give you a lot more area to run wires through.

rcampbell · « **Reply #80 on:** February 08, 2016, 06:23:25 PM »

Yeah I wondered that too, but the 3/4" is only for the low voltage wires, I can't imagine there'll be more than 3 or them, or even 2 really. And since I'm only 5 feet from the house, the wifi from the house even reach out there. But I'll see how it works before I bury it.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #81 on:** February 08, 2016, 07:03:15 PM »

Yeah, go bigger on your conduit. You never know what the future holds.

If you can, run shielded Cat6 (several runs) and then you can run power in there later if need be too.

rcampbell · « **Reply #82 on:** February 09, 2016, 08:04:46 AM »

Ok, you guys have convinced me, I'll step up the size of my second conduit.

Atkinsmatt · « **Reply #83 on:** February 09, 2016, 12:02:46 PM »

I wouldn't go less than 1.5 inch. And might go with 3 pipes while you have the trench open. Only cost a couple bucks now.

rcampbell · « **Reply #84 on:** February 10, 2016, 06:49:13 PM »

Well as I mentioned the drywall is up now. Only parts left is to cover the rest of the remaining bottom 4 feet of wall with plywood, where it's not concrete.

I will likely just put caulking where the plywood butts up against the drywall, and then the conduit for the surface mount wires will likely just go over the seam to hide it. Eventually the rafter will be strapped and the ceiling drywalled, but not likely until the summer sometime.

Also, all doors and windows are now in, and siding is up. I'll get some outdoor pictures this week, when it's daylight.

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #85 on:** February 10, 2016, 09:29:11 PM »

looks good! Consider an attic folding stair to the top if you don't already have one.

JR · « **Reply #86 on:** February 10, 2016, 09:41:18 PM »

I agree, add a few sheets of wood before you close it up and a folding ladder!

Bear9350 · « **Reply #87 on:** February 11, 2016, 08:08:46 AM »

If you haven't already purchased or started cutting your plywood if might be worth it to try and find some BC rated plywood. Your GS1 is AC (A is the sanded side and C is the side with knots). The B side of the BC plywood isn't sanded but there aren't any knots in it.

It looks like you guys might rate your plywood a little different. I'm guessing the stuff with all the knots you looked at was rated MDO2 or MDO1? I think the stuff you might want to look for is SEL or if you are planning on painting the walls you could do SEL TF I think.

rcampbell · « **Reply #88 on:** February 11, 2016, 05:23:35 PM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on February 10, 2016, 09:29:11 PM

looks good! Consider an attic folding stair to the top if you don't already have one.

Yes I'm definitely going to put some sort of access hatch for when the ceiling is done. Not sure if I'll end up with much storage if I end up blowing in insulation, but I suppose I could always put some plywood on the rafter and have a couple storage spots.

JR · « **Reply #89 on:** February 11, 2016, 05:35:43 PM »

Just do roll both on between the rafters and on the ceiling. That will keep the garage cozy and keep things stored from really freezing.

Just like clothing, layers are better

Bob Smith · « **Reply #90 on:** February 12, 2016, 10:53:29 AM »

Quote from: JR on February 11, 2016, 05:35:43 PM

Just do roll both on between the rafters and on the ceiling. That will keep the garage cozy and keep things stored from really freezing.

Just like clothing, layers are better

Neighbor placed a bunch of trash bags filled with blown in insulation over his stored stuff in the attic. He is just fighting keeping heat out of the house however, not a freezing problem here in Bullhead AZ

JR · « **Reply #91 on:** February 13, 2016, 12:40:22 PM »

You know I don't see openers on yet but look at the liftmasters. They go on the wall vs middle of the garage using the torque tube.

You can even get a battery backup so with no power you can get in.

rcampbell · « **Reply #92 on:** February 13, 2016, 05:19:14 PM »

Quote from: JR on February 13, 2016, 12:40:22 PM

You know I don't see openers on yet but look at the liftmasters. They go on the wall vs middle of the garage using the torque tube.

You can even get a battery backup so with no power you can get in.

I do have the openers already, they are just the traditional type that use a chain. They'll be fine for now, but I have seen a couple people with the liftmasters and they do seem like a good idea!

rcampbell · « **Reply #93 on:** February 16, 2016, 08:14:21 AM »

Got the panel hooked up this weekend, and got one plug mounted beside the panel so I will have power in there until I get plugs and lights installed.

Also built a shelf to hang on the wall, and started on a simple workbench as well.

Here's the bench, it's 8 feet long, and 2 feet deep. Will put a bottom shelf on one half, and my 20G air compressor will fit under the other half.

Here's the shelf. I will get plastic bins to go in the spots along the bottom. Either side has holes for adjustable shelves, and obviously the center is pegboard. Just need to get some stain on the top and mount it.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #94 on:** February 16, 2016, 08:58:27 AM »

Looks good!

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rcampbell · « **Reply #95 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:59:24 PM »

Finally got all the lights in and working. I have 3 rows of 6 lights. Each one is an LED bulb so the low temp won't affect it like a florescent and all 18 bulbs run on less than 190w of power combined!! Already fixing the wife's car!

rcampbell · « **Reply #96 on:** February 28, 2016, 06:42:46 PM »

I got my spare cummins home finally, going to clean it up and see what it needs, and give it at least a partial rebuild.

I also got my plywood up today!!

stlaser · « **Reply #97 on:** February 28, 2016, 08:47:58 PM »

You might have already stated this & my apologies if you did. However, why did you decide to do the wood on the bottom & drywall up top?

rcampbell · « **Reply #98 on:** February 28, 2016, 09:17:45 PM »

Quote from: stlaser on February 28, 2016, 08:47:58 PM

You might have already stated this & my apologies if you did. However, why did you decide to do the wood on the bottom & drywall up top?

I was going to do plywood everywhere, but once I realized they wanted $50 (CAD) per sheet for 1/2" G1S plywood, I did the bulk of it with drywall. The bottom 4 feet, which I figured would see the most abuse, is either concrete or plywood, so in theory I still get some of the ruggedness of plywood where it is needed, for a lot less cost.

stlaser · « **Reply #99 on:** February 28, 2016, 10:23:08 PM »

I see, you were afraid dry wall on lower would get beat up. What's the plan for finishing the wood, stain?