REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
TOOLS, CONSTRUCTION, ALTERNATIVE ENERGY => Hand Tools, Power Tools, Welders, etc => Topic started by: Flyin6 on March 22, 2017, 08:56:03 PM
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OK, finally got things cleared up enough to start assembly of the sawmill.
I purchased a new HM-130, 30" capacity sawmill from Neal Bramley of Woodland Mills in Ontario Canada
Here is the thing crated. The top box is a cant-hook, then a single box of 10 blades, then two additional track extensions, then all the rest...
I was supposed to get twenty blades, in two boxes, but somehow one box was left off. I contacted Neal, and he is on it.
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The cant-hook is a necessary piece of equipment used to turn the heavy logs I will be milling shortly
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I also purchased a custom cover for the saw head which will protect the thing until such time as I get a building up around the saw
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The flat box contains ten new saw blades, and the long skinny boxes, the six foot track extensions
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The main box containing the sawmill head and other track is well packaged, even having a steel cage inside one of several layers of cardboard
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I continued tearing down the boxes, noting that everything is really heavy...I mean REALLY HEAVY
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I put those new pallet forks to some good use moving all the various pieces parts of this sawmill
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A handy tube is affixed to the sawmill head which holds the owners manual, some gloves, and eyeglasses and the Kohler engine owners manual
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The gloves I am using are fine for now, and anyway, I doubt the new gloves will survive the week with all their fingers attached since the killer dog eyeballed them while I was holding them
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I read over the manual to familiarize myself with what was going to come next, then filled out the information on my mill
Take a look at the serial number...At the first three numbers of that serial number
How cool is that!
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Then I started laying out things so they would be at the ready
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The parts seem to be of a very good quality. Some metal parts was powder coated, and some was galvanized, but nothing was rusty or buggered up that I could find. There was a lot of attention to detail in the making of the parts, and I am left early on with the impression of quality.
I laid the mill head out on a 6" tall block as instructed in the assembly instructions
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Then I started laying out track sections atop 3 X 4 strips laid on their size to give me some working room
I threw on a couple of log bunks, but did not bolt anything together just yet
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I started at the mill end with an end bunk which is missing the stainless facing. Taking my time I bolted it together using a square
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There are a lot of nuts and bolts and other hardware in many well sorted boxes
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Once squaring one corner and bolting that together tightly, I squared the other corner, and adjusted for the necessary track width of 30.5" to the outside of the uprights
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The track sections are joined by a steel plate below and a log bunk on the top with eight nylon locking bolt/nuts
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I got a little happy with one of the bolts, tearing it apart and initiating this new machine to the ever present carnage that follows me and everything I own
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Assembling the log bunk and squaring and measuring once again for the 30.5" width, I bolted that bunk, and the center one down, permanizing the assembly
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I added the second section next. There are two more sections left to add on, but I plan to build them up separately, then assemble them to this rail on site at the farm
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Next, I assembled one of the "Log-Dogs" to a spot I think will serve to hold shorter logs in place while milling
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Then the log stays were set loosely into place
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Then using some old Cummins intake valves
What!!!!!
Not intake valves, these are the feet for the rail. They consist of this big cupped washer looking affair, with a bolt and a nut holding the foot in place. Each foot has four holes in it which I will use to screw the feet to the 6X6 beam they will rest on
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Well, that was about 4 hours of slow work. That got me to supper time, so that concludes assembly day number one!
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I read over the manual to familiarize myself with what was going to come next, then filled out the information on my mill
Take a look at the serial number...At the first three numbers of that serial number
How cool is that!
What's special about the first three numbers of the serial number? I read the first four as 16th of Jan 2017 - being from Canada land and all... ;)
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Looking good there chief.
Looks like a solid machine so far.
Broken bolts already...0 board feet to carnage. Lol
Ryan, the first three are 160, Dons old unit in spec ops.
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Looking good there chief.
Looks like a solid machine so far.
Broken bolts already...0 board feet to carnage. Lol
Ryan, the first three are 160, Dons old unit in spec ops.
Ahhhhh gotcha :)
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Looks good so far. Can't wait to see it covered with sawdust and smidgeon of blood. :shocked:
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I read over the manual to familiarize myself with what was going to come next, then filled out the information on my mill
Take a look at the serial number...At the first three numbers of that serial number
How cool is that!
What's special about the first three numbers of the serial number? I read the first four as 16th of Jan 2017 - being from Canada land and all... ;)
1-6-0
I served in the 160th Special Operations Aviation Regiment Known as the "Night Stalkers" or SOAR
Google it...
Those guys are the very best the military can put up...
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Looks good so far. Can't wait to see it covered with sawdust and smidgeon of blood. :shocked:
Yikes!
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Looks good so far. Can't wait to see it covered with sawdust and smidgeon of blood. :shocked:
Yikes!
smidgen means a SMALL amount (of something)....
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Not sure what happened here???
Finger was intact so onward and upward!
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Next I snugged up the bolts fitted to the "feet"
The black marks indicate that piece has been tightened
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Those nuts are large, measuring 24mm!
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Then the feet are slipped into place. The bottom nut is screwed up against the base of the rails, then the top nut is snugged down. That is, of course if this is the height you wish to arrive at after final levelling
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The lower leg mounts come preassembled, requiting a bit of tightening. I left everything pretty loose at this point in accordance with the assembly guide
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Next the straight leg sections slide in the nylon lined bores
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Next the big box of hardware is opened and sorted in preparation for sawmill assembly. Things are well labled and sorted out. This made assembly go about as smooth as I expected.
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At this point the bottom rail assemblies are loosely bolted to the straight leg sections
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And then the saw head is finally rotated to its upright position
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The back/angled legs are now also loosely bolted to the mill
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The next box opened contains the top truss and is pretty heavy.
It also contains the 13 liter blade lube container
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That heavy truss goes on next and it really should be a two man lift, but I created a technique to do it by oneself.
First place a stool about a foot high in front of the saw (Teeth side of the machine). Then lift the truss and place it over the front (straight) leg post. Lower it until you can poke a screwdriver through a hole.
Grab a breath, that was a heavy lift. Next work the opposite side down until you can catch a second screwdriver through a hole to hold it in place temporarily. Next, going back to the first screwdriver pull it out and allow that side to lower just enough to catch the screwdriver into the correct hole. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side. Next, shove a couple bolts through the holes which should be pretty close and you have it!
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Then the lube tank mounts up with four bolts
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And then the "Dash" panel with a particular arrangement of bolts that you really need to pay attention to!
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With the dash installed but still loose, the height adjustment assembly is bolted in place
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With that in place it is time to string the cables, which remain loose for a time
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And now comes the push handle
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Now its time for the lube lines to get installed from the tank to the control valve, to the outlet which is a clever design using a bent copper tube
I added to their design a little at this poit adding some adhesive zip tie blocks to take up the slack from what I felt was too much (Pants snagging) slop. I like the fit better now
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Then the dept of cut scale is bolted up. The mill comes with two different scale tapes which are magnetic and stick like glue
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Here is a quick peak inside the blade housing
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Now its time to lift the mill head onto the tracks. To do this I chose to lift with my little tractor. This mill tested the upper limits of what a 1025 John Deere can lift. I wish I would have had my larger 4720 to do this lift
I fastened a clevis through either lift point eye, then connected that to a tree strap made for winching. It made for about a perfect height and is uber strong
With that, and using the pre-rangers as guides, I slowly advanced the mill head onto the tracks.
Here is where you will find out how well you did with respect to the 30.5" Rail spacing. Mine was dead nuts on, and the mill fell right into place with no adjusting required!
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The mill head is installed on the track backwards, but it doesn't matter since I will be lifting it off to transport to the farm
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At this point, I snugged up both cables then raised the head, and positioned the blade over a log bunk. Measuring each side, I came up with exactly 2 5/8" at either side indicating the head is parallel to the bunk
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The height crank has a detent locking device which I snugged up next followed by tightening the handle down
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I bolted up the throttle next and adjusted the linkage to give me full throttle from the engine
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The blade tension is set with this T-Handle. It has a stack up of spring washers. I pulled all that business apart and gave everything a liberal coat of water proof, high pressure synthetic grease
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Next comes some really aggravating detail work with the world's smallest screws.
Small screws and big cracked hands do not a match make!
I struggled through it, installing two of the latches before I threw in the towel for the evening.
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And that is where I left the project for the evening. I am well within striking distance of getting this thing done in a day!
My overall impression of the machine is highly favorable at this point. I did see some scale rust inside two of the upright tubes where the galvanize might not have fully covered the steel. and there was a spot where the powder coat did not reach.
Those being really minor, the build quality with respect to fit, overall strength, ease of assembly and overall look is very high indeed. I think this machine at its price point is an excellent buy. After I open up a log or two, I'll be able to report more to give a complete picture of what this saw and Woodland Mills really is
So far, so Good!
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You have been busy busy busy
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Nice start there. That old tractor looks small. Even a pic of BD in there,,,,, :beercheers:
See it took until post 17 to break something, well done!!
After watching the video and seeing this is there anything that keeps the saw from coming off the tract? Heavy or not there should be something.
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Nice start there. That old tractor looks small. Even a pic of BD in there,,,,, :beercheers:
See it took until post 17 to break something, well done!!
After watching the video and seeing this is there anything that keeps the saw from coming off the tract? Heavy or not there should be something.
It has "L" shaped stops at either end...However this is only half the track. The next 12 feet is yet to be assembled
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Anything that keeps it from coming up off the track? You are cutting pretty big logs on there that may move. Heavy or not you don't want that to happen.
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Anything that keeps it from coming up off the track? You are cutting pretty big logs on there that may move. Heavy or not you don't want that to happen.
JR, I didn't design the thing. This is the way most of the mills come. Some have under-rider wheels, but most just set the very heavy mill head onto the tracks and let gravity do the rest.
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Today I completed the sawmill assembly
I could have done this in two days but I took my time and did not work a complete day on it. I took my time examining the various components to get a feel for the machine, but that is all well spent time in my view.
First up was getting the engine fired up. I topped up the empty crankcase with two quarts of John Deere 10W-30
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The air filter housing has a cleverly designed intake snorkel. It orients the air intake away from the exhaust in the summer and places it next to the exhaust for cold weather operations
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I removed the blade earlier to facilitate bolting in the latches
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After replacing the blade, I checked the tracking and found it to be perfect, needing no adjustment what so ever. With that in place, I closed up the cover and started the engine. It rumbled to life on the second choked pull. It stumbled for a little while then settled into a steady idle, and throttled willingly. I ran it for about five minutes, varying the RPM to help seat the piston rings, something I will repeat several more times before forcing it to do any real cutting
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From the attention to detail files, take a look at the cool wheel sweeps that Woodland Mills installs to keep those wheels free of debris:
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The saw blade rides on a rubber cushion, with one side using the drive belt itself as the cushioning
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While I was working on the thing today, the Fedex man arrived with my missing second box of new blades. So that establishes a three day flash to bang time for ordering parts. Pretty good and no one balked anything when I reported the incomplete shipment. That's a mark in the "Go" column for the Woodland Mills folks.
To aid me with the assembly of the last two track sections I cut slots in a 2 X 6 with the required spacing. All I then needed to do would be to lay the two-by onto the new track and bolt things together.
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Before I go further, JR had inquired about what stops the mill from falling off. The grooves in the wheels working with gravity does 99% of the work, and for end to end travel, these bolt in stops complete the task.
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Back to the track, and with the two-by holding the track sections in alignment, it all spaced perfectly at 30.5" outside to outside width.
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The assembly of the second two sections, effectively doubling the length of the mill went much faster than the initial two. Having benefited from the experience, I laid the parts out and threw them together in perhaps 1.5 hours
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Tonight, the Kentucky is in an area of severe weather, and in the late afternoon, I was thinking this thunderstorm was going to rain on my party, but it passed harmlessly by.
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And then, just like that I was finished!
Please note that the mill is setting on the track backwards, but I am not willing to risk what amounts to two lifts until I get the new tractor with the much better performing loader.
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With this setup, I can mill beams up to twenty two feet in length!
I actually am going to push the envelope and mill two, twenty two footers which will serve as the legs that support the second floor deck on the shed
With the thing more or less completed, I threw on the mill head cover while I await flipping the mill head around to test cut a couple logs. Then I'll separate the track into two halves and load all that onto the 18 foot trailer for transport to the farm.
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Nice tinkertoy there. It does looks like they thought it out.
Those cables were driving me nuts thinking what are they for. That makes sense now!
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I like it. You will be able to make some sawdust with that bugger! Very cool. I'm thinking that will pay for itself over time. Not to mention the time hassle of going to the lumberyard....hauling out what you need for the hide site, etc.
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I like it. You will be able to make some sawdust with that bugger! Very cool. I'm thinking that will pay for itself over time. Not to mention the time hassle of going to the lumberyard....hauling out what you need for the hide site, etc.
I think with the material I cut for the "Saw-House" and the implement storage shed attached, the wrap around porch, the upper deck and shed dormer(s) that thing will have paid itself several times over.
All I have to buy for the little "barn/saw-house" are the screws, nails, and roof metal, maybe a hinge or two.
Mother nature will provide the rest!
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Nice acquisition, Big D! Now you need a small forge, then you could make your own nails and hinges. You'd be totally off the grid, and in a position to recycle from whatever scrap you come across on your land. Like trashed mower blades, and other carnage. :wink:
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Nice acquisition, Big D! Now you need a small forge, then you could make your own nails and hinges. You'd be totally off the grid, and in a position to recycle from whatever scrap you come across on your land. Like trashed mower blades, and other carnage. :wink:
Loads of that around!
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With the better loader available to me, I snatched the saw head off the rails and turned it around.
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Unfortunately I got into the cut scale a bit, tearing the tape and breaking the witness line
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But with the correct orientation, I loaded one of those eight foot cedar logs onto the saw, and dogged it for cutting
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On a log this size the cutting is absolutely effortless. I started with maybe a 2" deep cut and went through that log like a hot knife through butter.
Then from there I took a second pass to get a clear span wise flat area
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I started the process of rotating the "Cant" to establish more and more flat sides
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Until I ended up with this 5" X 5" cant.
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A lot of pieces came out of that log:
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That is some pretty stuff, if you like purple!
Here is one of the 1" thick boards I cut
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So, I tried to calculate what that cost me. Without amortizing the cost of the mill, and considering fuel useage, blade sharpening, chain saw fuel/oil/sharpening and cost of soap I add to the water, I am coming up with a cost of thirty cents to around a dollar. The tree was free, and I have not considered if there is any money to be made from the wood chips from the branches or the sawdust from the cut.
Putting up this next building is not going to be all that costly.
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That is definitely some unique colouring in the log.
Once you get it all sorted you'll be making board feet out the wazzoo!
But you're going to need a lot of trees.
And I think you have at least that many.
Looks like you've got a winner.
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That would be some pretty wood on an interior wall.
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That is just amazing! Stain that a bit darker would make a great bar top in a log cabin.
So is the carnage report up to two mishaps? A bolt and now the cut scale? Are we counting these?
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That is just amazing! Stain that a bit darker would make a great bar top in a log cabin.
So is the carnage report up to two mishaps? A bolt and now the cut scale? Are we counting these?
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I think I'll make some of this available for folks on this site. I'd like to sow into your lives. I'd like to see that bar top in your house, or some of that wood lining a closet or yours JR. In the past our homes, well some of them would have cedar lined closets. The scent of the wood which is pretty heavy is repulsive to bugs. It's like getting a permanent termite barrier.
As for carnage...CAREP...I guess it is carnage, although pretty light...Caused by the tractor (Not me!) But I don't really want to start off with a mishap, would rather start with a beautiful pile of freshly cut boards and timbers...
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That is just amazing! Stain that a bit darker would make a great bar top in a log cabin.
So is the carnage report up to two mishaps? A bolt and now the cut scale? Are we counting these?
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I think I'll make some of this available for folks on this site. I'd like to sow into your lives. I'd like to see that bar top in your house, or some of that wood lining a closet or yours JR. In the past our homes, well some of them would have cedar lined closets. The scent of the wood which is pretty heavy is repulsive to bugs. It's like getting a permanent termite barrier.
As for carnage...CAREP...I guess it is carnage, although pretty light...Caused by the tractor (Not me!) But I don't really want to start off with a mishap, would rather start with a beautiful pile of freshly cut boards and timbers...
Beautiful pile, check! Being minimal carnage not worth keeping track of, swept under the rug....check!
Don't you have walnut at the farm too? Maybe in the old barn she'd building? That too would make some great interior additions.
How much time did you have in cutting that 5x5 to size?
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That is just amazing! Stain that a bit darker would make a great bar top in a log cabin.
So is the carnage report up to two mishaps? A bolt and now the cut scale? Are we counting these?
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I think I'll make some of this available for folks on this site. I'd like to sow into your lives. I'd like to see that bar top in your house, or some of that wood lining a closet or yours JR. In the past our homes, well some of them would have cedar lined closets. The scent of the wood which is pretty heavy is repulsive to bugs. It's like getting a permanent termite barrier.
As for carnage...CAREP...I guess it is carnage, although pretty light...Caused by the tractor (Not me!) But I don't really want to start off with a mishap, would rather start with a beautiful pile of freshly cut boards and timbers...
Beautiful pile, check! Being minimal carnage not worth keeping track of, swept under the rug....check!
Don't you have walnut at the farm too? Maybe in the old barn she'd building? That too would make some great interior additions.
How much time did you have in cutting that 5x5 to size?
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Setting up and cutting that whole log took maybe 10 minutes
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That is just amazing! Stain that a bit darker would make a great bar top in a log cabin.
So is the carnage report up to two mishaps? A bolt and now the cut scale? Are we counting these?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think I'll make some of this available for folks on this site. I'd like to sow into your lives. I'd like to see that bar top in your house, or some of that wood lining a closet or yours JR. In the past our homes, well some of them would have cedar lined closets. The scent of the wood which is pretty heavy is repulsive to bugs. It's like getting a permanent termite barrier.
As for carnage...CAREP...I guess it is carnage, although pretty light...Caused by the tractor (Not me!) But I don't really want to start off with a mishap, would rather start with a beautiful pile of freshly cut boards and timbers...
Beautiful pile, check! Being minimal carnage not worth keeping track of, swept under the rug....check!
Don't you have walnut at the farm too? Maybe in the old barn she'd building? That too would make some great interior additions.
How much time did you have in cutting that 5x5 to size?
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Setting up and cutting that whole log took maybe 10 minutes
Shoot, you can't get into a crappy lumber store and out in that time span. That's awesome.
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That is really great Don. And ditto other comments about the look of that wood. I bet you could sell some of that to some woodworkers close by. Very cool stuff! I like that.
ETA: I had to laugh thinking about your neighbors....from late night vehicle work, tractors running around and now the RRRRRRMMMMMMMM (not sure how I spell the sound of logs being ripped! ha!) of a sawmill. They must love you! :grin: :grin: Make sure you fire it up on Sundays during cookout time. :smiley:
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That is really great Don. And ditto other comments about the look of that wood. I bet you could sell some of that to some woodworkers close by. Very cool stuff! I like that.
ETA: I had to laugh thinking about your neighbors....from late night vehicle work, tractors running around and now the RRRRRRMMMMMMMM (not sure how I spell the sound of logs being ripped! ha!) of a sawmill. They must love you! :grin: :grin: Make sure you fire it up on Sundays during cookout time. :smiley:
They think I am a bit of an anomaly...
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Beautiful work Big D!
That would be cedar, right?
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Yes, Ken, Cedar...which up to this point was a pest plant and or future fence posts
This mill changed that up for sure!
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Don I'm jelly. Very nice. I think you had asked a question about concrete tube forms some where. I apologize for failing to respond. Would you repeat the question ?
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They think I am a bit of an anomaly...
Good to keep them guessing.... :wink:
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Don I'm jelly. Very nice. I think you had asked a question about concrete tube forms some where. I apologize for failing to respond. Would you repeat the question ?
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I think I figured it out...
I was inquiring about how much concrete per sonotube.
I rethought my project. About how I want to erect this building at the lowest possible cost. I was going to bore 8 holes with 8" sonotubes inserted and filled with quickcrete, for the stanchions for the sawmill mount. But now I think I'll bore the holes, insert Cedar logs, backfill with quickcrete and call it a day. Then level and cut off the log bases and mount a 6X6X20 onto the poles and bolt the saw to that.
So I'm good...
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Here ya go Don:
3.14 x radius of tube (that's half the diameter so 8" hole = 4" diameter) squared * length of tube
MINUS
height * width * length of cedar post
:wink:
8" hole 24" deep with 5" x 5" cedar pole = 605 cu in concrete
a 60 lb bag of premix (only add water) should get you about 3 maybe 4 holes.
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^^^ I'm smiling
I sort of know the math...
Pilot stuff...
Thanks anyway!
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Or you can read the side of the tube form and it will tell you. Bags/ft
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I am not sure you want to set that mill on green timbers. If the mill has to stay level, how do you plan on keeping the timbers staying straight while they are drying out? Also, ran into a guy while up hunting, he was running a mill on his place with many piles of logs sitting around. All the log ends were painted with lots of different colors. I had to ask, his comment was, paint the ends up good and it cuts down on the cracking while they are drying out, paint is paint color doesn't matter.
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Pour Crete and put threaded rod in so you can adjust height as needed
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^^^ I'm smiling
I sort of know the math...
Pilot stuff...
Thanks anyway!
Well whatdja ask that Tejas guy fur then? Jes quizin' him? :grin:
Well don't come crying to me when you end up with enough concrete left over to line ur pond....*taking my math equations and going home* haha. :grin:
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Don't worry Wilbur, I'm just waiting for "Mr Piluuut" to get the hair brained idea of using the new chipper as a cement mixer. :facepalm:
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:grin: :grin: :grin:
:beercheers:
:popcorn:
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I'm sure there is a PTO mixer out there with his name on it.
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:knucklehead: :knucklehead:
:popcorn:
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Next week there will be a thread titled "Whatever brand Don bought Concrete Mixer".
First post- " With the purchase of the saw mill and the plan for all the construction I am going to be pouring a lot of concrete...."
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Next week there will be a thread titled "Whatever brand Don bought Concrete Mixer".
First post- " With the purchase of the saw mill and the plan for all the construction I am going to be pouring a lot of concrete...."
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/zsZx2S-5ncE/maxresdefault.jpg)
And all it needs is an oil change.....
:popcorn:
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I am not sure you want to set that mill on green timbers. If the mill has to stay level, how do you plan on keeping the timbers staying straight while they are drying out? Also, ran into a guy while up hunting, he was running a mill on his place with many piles of logs sitting around. All the log ends were painted with lots of different colors. I had to ask, his comment was, paint the ends up good and it cuts down on the cracking while they are drying out, paint is paint color doesn't matter.
The mill tracks are set on adjustable height feet. Take a look back in the assembly thread.
So plan is to dig the holes, place in cedar posts on top of concrete, and surrounded by concrete and let that all set up. Come back with a laser or water level and saw off the timbers to the uniform height. Bolt a single 6 X 6 X 20 ontol each run and finally set the mill on that. I'll do final leveling of mill tracks with the laser level and start sawing up my little slice of the planet
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Don't worry Wilbur, I'm just waiting for "Mr Piluuut" to get the hair brained idea of using the new chipper as a cement mixer. :facepalm:
Can it mix concrete too?
With different knives installed???
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I bought the little HF mixer. Not a bad little rig for less than $200 when mixing smaller batches. Just don't put it on uneven ground and let it tip over backwards with 3 bags of concrete and water in it.. Makes lifting it up off the ground a bit of a challenge....don't ask me how I know.
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I bought the little HF mixer. Not a bad little rig for less than $200 when mixing smaller batches. Just don't put it on uneven ground and let it tip over backwards with 3 bags of concrete and water in it.. Makes lifting it up off the ground a bit of a challenge....don't ask me how I know.
I was just looking at that thing last week!
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So we saw the creation of the sawmill base on the hide site thread. It has been build and now awaits the arrival of the saw itself
I broke the track down and have readied it for transport to the final assembly site
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I believe this should pretty much conclude this thread except for some future reports on durability and quality and so forth. From now on this saw will be seen adding visibly to the growth of the farmstead
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I'm looking into mills and found some U built it kits with HD looking stuff and 30 inch throat. Not cheap but really heavy stuff. I am keenly interested in:
Accuracy of the adjustments for board thickness
Engine power to production speed value
lubrication and tensioning of the blade.
General durability
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I'm looking into mills and found some U built it kits with HD looking stuff and 30 inch throat. Not cheap but really heavy stuff. I am keenly interested in:
Accuracy of the adjustments for board thickness
Engine power to production speed value
lubrication and tensioning of the blade.
General durability
You're on it
Those are key questions to be sure
Call the Woodland Mills folks. They will talk a bunch about power required.
I was confused by so many others bolting on 19-25HP and asked them about it.
They said they were cutting fine with around 10HP, but with so many people asking for a bigger engine they bolted on the 14HP Kohler that's on my mill. Now I have cut all of one little log, but it went through the thickest part of that log like it wasn't there. I could have pushed the saw through it quick if I wanted to
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Sure you will get more of a feel for it too as use goes up.
I want to see some wood on some walls.
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Sure you will get more of a feel for it too as use goes up.
I want to see some wood on some walls.
:-))
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I can't wait to see the old 'logs' from in the barn get opened up!
There could be some real nice pieces come from them.
Oh, on that topic, do you have a metal detector Don?
Will pay for itself in blades real quick.
Not necessarily this one, but one of similar stature.
http://www.detectmetal.com/metal-detector-review.htm
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I can't wait to see the old 'logs' from in the barn get opened up!
There could be some real nice pieces come from them.
Oh, on that topic, do you have a metal detector Don?
Will pay for itself in blades real quick.
Not necessarily this one, but one of similar stature.
http://www.detectmetal.com/metal-detector-review.htm
Second time I've heard this in the past few days...I'll pay attention and go get one
Danke'
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Any updates on this? I’m considering buying one now…..
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Not sure what you may be looking for, but mine finally wore out the blade guides, the "blade load" roller on the guides and the belt on the drive pulley. I purchased new parts and the saw was right back in order.
I managed to finally wear out a bunch of blades.
Pay attention to setting the tension (More than they prescribe, or it will cut propeller blades. Do not go to fast but just push it along. Low tension and going too fast will cause the blade to follow along the grain and not through it.
This is a good quality saw, and the blades they sell are good as well.
In my view, you do not need a big long track like mine (24 feet I think???)
I'd buy it again
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Not sure what you may be looking for, but mine finally wore out the blade guides, the "blade load" roller on the guides and the belt on the drive pulley. I purchased new parts and the saw was right back in order.
I managed to finally wear out a bunch of blades.
Pay attention to setting the tension (More than they prescribe, or it will cut propeller blades. Do not go to fast but just push it along. Low tension and going too fast will cause the blade to follow along the grain and not through it.
This is a good quality saw, and the blades they sell are good as well.
In my view, you do not need a big long track like mine (24 feet I think???)
I'd buy it again
Why not a long track? I was thinking 16’ worth, standard lumber length
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Not sure what you may be looking for, but mine finally wore out the blade guides, the "blade load" roller on the guides and the belt on the drive pulley. I purchased new parts and the saw was right back in order.
I managed to finally wear out a bunch of blades.
Pay attention to setting the tension (More than they prescribe, or it will cut propeller blades. Do not go to fast but just push it along. Low tension and going too fast will cause the blade to follow along the grain and not through it.
This is a good quality saw, and the blades they sell are good as well.
In my view, you do not need a big long track like mine (24 feet I think???)
I'd buy it again
Why not a long track? I was thinking 16’ worth, standard lumber length
Well, obviously, you need to set up for what you plan to cut.
I was thinking I'd need these uber-long 6X6's for a coming pole barn (Built already.)
Next, I noticed when I put a log on the deck, I was butting a lot off the big end just to get a good square on the small end. You really waste a lot doing that
But when I'd just cut a 10-footer, I could get 5-6 good boards out of it. This is my experience and my situation is different and I am inexperienced. Another thing I'd say is FOR SURE also buy yourself a chipper. You will get 5-10 waste pieces off each bunk. Now you can cut those down to fireplace length and have thinner pieces that will burn up in 15 minutes, or you can feed them to the chipper and have enough mulch to have beds all over the place. Cut just cedar, fill a pillow case and you have an instant aromatic dog bed. (Cats are tools and left outside, so who cares about them).
One other point. Buy the blades for what you are cutting as the teeth are a different pitch for pine vs oaks.
And my last piece of advice. When you are in the neighborhood, visit Don and grab a piece of something off his property so that something of mine can be nailed up in your place!
Oh, if you plan to cut 16' then you'll need track that goes 3' or so past that to take up the length of the trolly/cutter.