Author Topic: trailer weight distribution questions (Read 16767 times)

Bigdave_185 · « **on:** April 13, 2017, 12:59:13 AM »

Anyone up with bumper pull exp for a equalizer hitch?

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JR · « **Reply #1 on:** April 13, 2017, 02:51:24 AM »

Still there?

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 13, 2017, 07:21:18 AM »

Home safe, wondering if someone can walk me through determining if I have the load bars set to low or high. The trailer is empty (toy hauler) and it bounces my truck pretty good down the road. It looks to sit flat. Not much V or how ever you call it

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Wilbur · « **Reply #3 on:** April 13, 2017, 07:51:32 AM »

Dave I'm sure they're are others here with more experience with me (used them towing a 26' trailer cross country and back but not more than that). My understanding is you hook up the trailer to the TV, load the trailer and then apply the torsion bars to level the trailer and vehicle.

You likely need to readjust the torsion bars when you're unloaded versus loaded as the weights will be completely different. What I mean is if it's set correctly when loaded it will be incorrect when unloaded so my guess is trailer will wander (less weight on it). If it's correct when empty and then you load it you'll likely see more sagging on the TV which means less weight on the front end, trailer pulling more etc. Does that make sense?

I also found that I needed to make sure my brake controller was set correctly to be sure I got full stopping power versus wheel lock on the trailer.

I'm sure others will chime in who know more than me. What problems were you seeing?

Sammconn · « **Reply #4 on:** April 13, 2017, 08:08:11 AM »

How long?
How heavy(tongue weight)?

The reality is that the equalizer bars move weight to the front axle.
I ask length and tongue weight, as once you hit the 25-28 foot mark sway reduction is a good idea.
As long as you've set the bars to take weight, they will be helping.
Then based on tongue weight you may need to adjust.

The truck bouncing tells me you may have had them a little tight.
I know when I've went overboard it feels more bouncy.
It takes almost a full summer of towing the dang thing to figure out the sweet spot.

My .02 from the past.

KensAuto · « **Reply #5 on:** April 13, 2017, 11:42:21 AM »

I agree with Sam. Sounds like too much weight transfer to the front of the truck.

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 13, 2017, 12:10:14 PM »

More details when I finish my half day at work

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Nate · « **Reply #7 on:** April 13, 2017, 01:14:37 PM »

so if this is a bumper pull trailer and "not a 5th wheel setup" here is my thoughts on why this happened as well as how to correct it.

on all trailers regardless of their size and how many axle's it has, the weight should be distributed 60/40 between the puller vehicles drive axle's and the trailer. now, that 60 number is what should be on the TRAILER and not the tow vehicles drive axle and should be as close to if not directly over the trailer axle's and not past them. the 40 number should be towards the tongue/tow vehicle drive axle's. so in other words use the trailer for what it was designed to do (PULL/CARRY WEIGHT).

in saying that and from your description of symptoms, I would be willing to say that you had too much weight past the trailers axle's as well as pushing too much weight towards the tow vehicle steer axle (effectively leaving your drive axle unloaded).

now here is how I have always been taught and teach people how to use weight distribution bars.

- line your ball up with the hitch so that the hitch can lower directly on to the ball without any sort of wiggling to get it to couple.

-raise the trailer coupler hitch so that there is about an inch (maybe less) gap between the flat top of the ball and the flat portion of the underside of the coupler hitch.

-attach your weight distribution bars to the receiver/tow vehicle hitch

-attach one weight distribution bar to where as you are raising the latch (the part you attach the chain to) into place it is almost lifting the ball into the coupler hitch (about halfway into the coupler)

-repeat the previous step for the other side (the ball should basically be seated into the coupler hitch at this point)

-lower the trailer by raising the landing leg all the way up

-lock the coupler onto the ball and lock in place

now keep in mind that the amount of gap between the top of the ball and the flat underside of the coupler will vary based on the amount of weight that you are trying to distribute across the entire combination vehicle. add a leaf's, airbags and other additional weight improvement equipment will also play a role in this as well.

it will take you a few times pulling whatever it is that you are pulling to get things figured out. you may also want to experiment with different setups and roll across a DOT approved scale and see what kinds of weight you are putting on the different axles such as steer, drive and trailer. you can find scales like that at just about every major truck stop (flying J is a Utah company and I am sure that they are all over your area). it will cost you something like $10 to get your first weight (starting weight) and I think its like $1 or something like that every weigh after that as long as it is in a 24 hour period.

by the way, is this the first thing that you pulled with your new lift kit installed?

Bear9350 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 13, 2017, 01:32:15 PM »

60/40? Maybe I am not understanding properly what you are trying to convey but that seems like an awful lot of weight on the tongue? Most couplers tongue load ratings are 10-15% of the gross trailer weight rating.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 13, 2017, 01:36:17 PM »

I've set up an equalizer before. The manual was actually very good at explaining how to get it dialed in IIRC. You take measurements from the ground to the fender well, front and back as you're adjusting.

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 13, 2017, 02:15:17 PM »

Ok Sam,

It is 28 foot box, I'll have to look and see if I can see a tongue weight somewhere. I'll post a pick of the setup in about ten min. Moving to the what I did today

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Sammconn · « **Reply #11 on:** April 13, 2017, 02:19:30 PM »

So is this a camper/toy hauler, or an enclosed car hauler/toy hauler?
If it's a car hauler, you definitely don't need bars empty.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 13, 2017, 03:16:50 PM »

It's a toy hauler

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Bob Smith · « **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2017, 03:17:54 PM »

Dave, not sure what you are asking, if the trailer is bouncing because no extra weight is on the trailer axles/springs you will feel it in the drivers seat. Usually with weight distribution spring bars, too light of bar for the tongue weight will cause the front to back rocking feeling because the spring bars are flexing so much. That should not have been the case with an empty equipment trailer unless it is a very heavy sucker with a whole bunch of tongue weight and very low spring bar rating.
I have only used weight distribution hitches that put the unloaded weight from the front axle of the truck back on the front truck axle. Most rigs only want to see the after hitched weight the same or a bit less than the unhitched weight. Yes the hitch will put some weight on the trailer axles also but the rear truck axle will still carry most of the tongue weight. Also, I always hook the trailer to the hitch ball before hooking up the spring bars. By doing so, you can raise the tongue with the tongue jack making it a lot easier to hook the spring bars. Now if you and Nate are talking about something else, I can't help you.

Bob Smith · « **Reply #14 on:** April 13, 2017, 03:33:59 PM »

Didn't see you were towing a Toy Hauler RV. Those things are very heavy on the tongue, some more when empty than with toys in the garage. More weight in the trailers rear half causes the tongue to be lighter. I am betting your spring bars were either not set tight enough or were to low rated for the tongue weight. You might even be over the hitch rating on the truck which could cause other problems.

JR · « **Reply #15 on:** April 13, 2017, 03:35:46 PM »

Quote from: Bear9350 on April 13, 2017, 01:32:15 PM

60/40? Maybe I am not understanding properly what you are trying to convey but that seems like an awful lot of weight on the tongue? Most couplers tongue load ratings are 10-15% of the gross trailer weight rating.

This is my understanding too and I have been looking into a setup. Do you mean 60/40 split over the trailer axle?

I have been leaning towards the Anderson chain setup since a couple friends have them and love them. My TH grosses out at 11k and I was getting a little wobble last time.

Nate · « **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2017, 06:33:29 PM »

folks, I split this from its original 911 thread and gave it its own name.

Bob Smith · « **Reply #17 on:** April 13, 2017, 06:59:21 PM »

Thanks Nate....

Nate · « **Reply #18 on:** April 13, 2017, 07:24:09 PM »

no problem bob.

dave, can you please give us a bit more info please.......

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 13, 2017, 10:25:32 PM »

This is what I am pulling. It's loaded now and we will see how it does

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Bob Smith · « **Reply #20 on:** April 13, 2017, 10:45:38 PM »

Dave, that set up looks low in front of trailer and nose high on the truck. What is the tongue weight of the trailer? Did you measure the front of truck height before and after you hooked up the trailer? If the truck has the factory round tube hitch, I am betting the tongue weight is higher than the hitch rating. Even if you have the proper spring bars, the hitch will flex causing the proposing you feel. I am betting the hitch weight of the trailer is North of 1,200 lbs so best case you will need 1,400lb bars and most likely an after market hitch that is rated at least 1,400lbs. Been there, fought the darn set up before heading to the scales and getting real numbers to work with.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 14, 2017, 12:02:52 AM »

Quote from: Bob/OlallaWa on April 13, 2017, 10:45:38 PM

Dave, that set up looks low in front of trailer and nose high on the truck. What is the tongue weight of the trailer? Did you measure the front of truck height before and after you hooked up the trailer? If the truck has the factory round tube hitch, I am betting the tongue weight is higher than the hitch rating. Even if you have the proper spring bars, the hitch will flex causing the proposing you feel. I am betting the hitch weight of the trailer is North of 1,200 lbs so best case you will need 1,400lb bars and most likely an after market hitch that is rated at least 1,400lbs. Been there, fought the darn set up before heading to the scales and getting real numbers to work with.

Definitely get the Curt HD. The round bar factory hitches are notoriously weak. Check out my build thread if you want to see what I'm talking about

And I would agree, the nose of the truck looks high, tongue of the trailer looks low

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 14, 2017, 01:30:24 AM »

Head lights point up a little bit high

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 14, 2017, 01:33:30 AM »

I will revisit in the morning. Made it to the location for weekend and will adjust trailer storage location. Move some weight to the back of the trailer and put some more weight on the axles

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #24 on:** April 14, 2017, 07:38:29 AM »

You guys are going about this advice giving all wrong. I have the solution Dave.

You just need a dually with air bags

Bob Smith · « **Reply #25 on:** April 14, 2017, 11:47:53 AM »

Perfect, everyone should tow with one of those, BUT we don't all have a back up daily driver

TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #26 on:** April 14, 2017, 01:09:45 PM »

True Bob but the Dually is my daily driver. :eek

Scaling it is solid advice. It's the only way to really know. Also if your truck is level unloaded you'll always be looking at the sky loaded. I put the 2 inch rake back in both of mine. Either that or some airbags

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 15, 2017, 04:44:06 AM »

Quote from: TexasRedNeck on April 14, 2017, 07:38:29 AM

You guys are going about this advice giving all wrong. I have the solution Dave.

You just need a dually with air bags

I would drive a dually in a heart beat Tex. Red would be the color of choice but. Seems how the trailer is borrowed. I won't be buying one anytime soon

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Flyin6 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 15, 2017, 10:56:44 AM »

Why does chevy only offer a dually with a long bed? No 6.5' beds on the general...??

Dodge, well, Ram offers three boxes. I actually think the Ram mega cab, short-short box looks good. Would be perfect for towing a fifth wheel and driving about when you get there.

mjmbrown · « **Reply #29 on:** April 15, 2017, 01:36:46 PM »

I had the same truck, and a 28' toyhauler. Without anything in the trailer, bikes. water, fuel, supplies your tongue weight is extreme. Once you are fully loaded is when I found my sweet spot for my hitch. after towing it once without bags I immediately put a set of airlift bags on it and wireless compressor to reduce the bounce you are experiencing. my truck was an 05 with 6" lift and 35s. Although depending on how I loaded the back end was how well it behaved on the road. I ride quads now and have them placed smallest to biggest front to back. and any extra gear I will unload at camp goes as far back in trailer as possible. reducing tongue weight. the biggest game changer for me is fresh water, I have 2 75 gallon tanks (1500 lbs) on mine which is insane but I can dry camp for a week without worry. when im full to the brim it plants my trailer and keeps all the axles/tires behaving on the hwy. it took me a summer of camping to find the right arrangement. its really an experiment to find your sweet spot. But I would say the bags are a must, with ANY toyhauler.

Bob Smith · « **Reply #30 on:** April 15, 2017, 03:48:20 PM »

Toy haulers are by far the hardest of the pull trailers to get properly set up for towing. They are so tongue heavy to start with, and the weights are always shifting around as garage loads change. Just as important as proper hitch set up is being sure the thing stays within the tire ratings.
Then the tow rig, lifted isn't the best, oversize tires are not the best, air bags must be adjusted before setting the spring bars up or the bars are loosened up as air is added, and round tube GM 2 inch receivers are junk with low weight ratings too.
The good thing Dave, you don't own it and most likely won't be towing all that much...If you are going to be towing it, take the time and get it set up, you don't need problems while on vacation.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 16, 2017, 06:10:06 PM »

I made it home from the camp trip, the weight label has faded long ago. I adjusted the hitch after watching some videos, and distributed my load a little different. I put most of all the load on the very back ( I only brought to dirt bikes home). It towed really well on the way home. The nittos hold the corners well and handle the load really good in my opinion, I do need to invest in air bags. I Will be getting a load appropriate hitch for my truck.

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JR · « **Reply #32 on:** April 16, 2017, 09:25:40 PM »

I see your grab handle broke off too.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 16, 2017, 09:59:06 PM »

Yep. A great many things are not proper on this trailer. The generator is out, the batteries have no covers or tie downs, the lift gate spring has gone soft, the fuel tank system is in need of tlc. Lots of light bulbs were out on the outside, the stairs got smashed by me this weekend (build thread for repair?)

Needs a new carb for the guardian generator, water system cleaned, LED interior lights, new LED side marker lights, the bunk beds need new mattress covers

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TexasRedNeck · « **Reply #34 on:** April 18, 2017, 08:22:19 AM »

Just send it over to Ken.....he's already done most of that to his.....

KensAuto · « **Reply #35 on:** April 18, 2017, 10:01:20 AM »

Lol. Gotta love first world problems

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rpar86 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 18, 2017, 11:50:15 AM »

Airbags were my first thought when I saw the truck and trailer pic over on DF.

Don't you just love borrowing other people's stuff that hasn't been taken care of? I, like you, tend to return things in better condition than when I got them. Rewired a couple trailers for friends now. I kind of enjoy that work, but that's just me... ;)

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 21, 2017, 11:34:33 AM »

Looking at replacement hitches this AM. Two brands I have on the radar at the Curt and the Draw tire, The curt class V has 1000 pounds higher rating for what I have found to be the same price on amazon $180. Does anyone have other recommendations

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JR · « **Reply #38 on:** April 21, 2017, 11:44:04 AM »

Curt always seems to get good reviews and you won't be sorry going with a class V.

My stock hitch is coming off (round bar GM) and its getting a Ruenell bumper with integral receiver.

Dawg25385 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 21, 2017, 11:46:16 AM »

I have the curt xd. Zero complaints. Its a heavy chunk of steel for sure

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 21, 2017, 12:15:20 PM »

Quote from: JR on April 21, 2017, 11:44:04 AM

Curt always seems to get good reviews and you won't be sorry going with a class V.

My stock hitch is coming off (round bar GM) and its getting a Ruenell bumper with integral receiver.

After pulling the toyhauler this past weekend my bumper is sagging a out two inches. Time to replace that stick junk

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #41 on:** April 21, 2017, 12:15:52 PM »

Curt it is. Maybe powder coat it to match the front end parts first

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Dawg25385 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 21, 2017, 12:19:40 PM »

You'll need to find a place to mount your trailer plug. You can just screw the bracket into the new hitch and use the factory plug, but for a cleaner install, check out what I did in my build thread. Prettt sure Ryan (rpar86) did the same thing. I got a Hopkins plug and installed it in my bumper by the license plate, like all the newer trucks do

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Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 21, 2017, 12:46:01 PM »

Copy that. Looks good to me!

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Bear9350 · « **Reply #44 on:** April 21, 2017, 01:10:40 PM »

The Curt hitch is heavily praised on DF. I have no personal experience though.

JR, If interested I can work you up a price for a bumper with integrated hitch. I doubt I could beat there price after taking shipping into consideration. I've made a few minor tweaks since this one was built but the same general shape applies.

Sammconn · « **Reply #45 on:** April 21, 2017, 02:49:07 PM »

I'm sporting the curt xd.
One beefy hitch in comparison to the stocker.
Can't find the picture of the model, but it was 2" receiver class v.

I'll get numbers if you want.
I think Kyle may have put the same on on his too.

Bigdave_185 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 21, 2017, 04:07:56 PM »

Quote from: Bear9350 on April 21, 2017, 01:10:40 PM

The Curt hitch is heavily praised on DF. I have no personal experience though.

JR, If interested I can work you up a price for a bumper with integrated hitch. I doubt I could beat there price after taking shipping into consideration. I've made a few minor tweaks since this one was built but the same general shape applies.

Whats the story on the bumper bear? $? Estimated towing weight?

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rpar86 · « **Reply #47 on:** April 21, 2017, 04:29:09 PM »

Quote from: Dawg25385 on April 21, 2017, 12:19:40 PM

You'll need to find a place to mount your trailer plug. You can just screw the bracket into the new hitch and use the factory plug, but for a cleaner install, check out what I did in my build thread. Prettt sure Ryan (rpar86) did the same thing. I got a Hopkins plug and installed it in my bumper by the license plate, like all the newer trucks do

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Yup -- that I do. You can check it out here Dave. (I haven't yet started a build thread over here... too much copy/paste

)

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/06-07-lbz-lly-performance-parts-discussion/217658-my-lbz-build-thread.html#post2947785

Bear9350 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 21, 2017, 05:06:12 PM »

I don't have any official ratings for it. The draw bar is a 4' piece of 4" square tubing with 1/4" wall. I weld a 2" receiver tube in the center of it. Then I take a couple pieces of 6" x 3" rectangular tubing and cut 4" squares in each end. The drawbar slides through the cut outs and is welded to the tubing. Then I drill and notch the tubing to mount to the truck frame.

Pricing varies. I would offer anybody here special pricing. I think it would be about $850 for a non painted bumper, plus shipping. I generally prefer to ship bumpers raw. It makes packaging and shipping cheaper and removes the possibility of the paint being damages during shipping.

rpar86 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 21, 2017, 05:50:21 PM »

$850 isn't bad when you consider a $400 hitch plus another $650-$1300 for a bumper elsewhere.