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why do all kinds of fiddling with bending pipe and such when you can just buy the correct tarp and bow set for those trailers.......?https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartsList/161/TLRPRThttp://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-vehicle-parts.html?limit=all&mode=listhttps://www.google.com/search?q=us+army+hmmwv+trailer+tarp+set&oq=us+army+hmmwv+trailer+tarp+set&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i21k1.3029.3792.0.4454.2.2.0.0.0.0.118.188.1j1.2.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.70.5PbPJKVh96Mjust to name a couple of sites.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb. I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
The conduit works great. Tarps are cheap and the 1101 even has loops for straps.
I used 4 posts on my little trailer (old chevy love) that has a flat rail I simply drilled into and used long bolts through pipe.I think 4 would be fine on the 1101 but I would use 1 in.
Hey now!Im just trying to prevent another tac topper incident from happening. .......
I missed the prices. $1200 yikes!So yeah, bend some hoops and tarp it.Given its Big D I'd have to agree minimum 3/4" but 1" likely best (thin wall)If it's rigid conduit, the 3/4 would likely suffice.
That 3/4 is stout on the little trailer but is only 5ft across.
With being it comes in 10ft lengths it will only be about 16in high with the bends. May want to join them in the center so you get more height out of it plus they are a little cheaper in a 10 pack.
Good start. No way to jockey the tank to clear the fitting? Add a fitting under the filler, lots of flat area it looks like?
I was able to hit all four bolts in the back, but none in the front side. THings are tight, and there is a whole lot of steel frame in the front. I estimate I might have needed an eight inch long bolt to get through everything!
I was thinking rotate the water tank a bit counter clockwise might work? Of course Shawn and Ken had valid ideas too.....
someone didn't read the comments from above^^^(or maybe he did, and sided with the hippy?)