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Offline oklawall

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Durmax AC problem
« on: August 09, 2019, 09:32:19 PM »
The hottest part of the year and my AC compressor decided to lock up. I replaced the compressor, lines, orifice tube and accumulator and flushed the ever living daylights out of the evaporator and condenser . Well the truck is a 2006 and it looked like everything was original. But my question is I can't find any info on how much refrigerant oil is needed for a 2006 Chevy 2500 with the duramax. The part store said 7.7 ounces but that sounds way to much to me. Any help would be great

Offline wyorunner

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2019, 11:21:33 PM »
The hottest part of the year and my AC compressor decided to lock up. I replaced the compressor, lines, orifice tube and accumulator and flushed the ever living daylights out of the evaporator and condenser . Well the truck is a 2006 and it looked like everything was original. But my question is I can't find any info on how much refrigerant oil is needed for a 2006 Chevy 2500 with the duramax. The part store said 7.7 ounces but that sounds way to much to me. Any help would be great

Someone else will probably come through with the answer, but can you call a stealership service dept or parts, and ask them? They have the info it’s just a matter of whether or not they’re willing to share. I have gotten info on toyotas in this manner.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2019, 08:22:22 PM »
Sounds right to me. Put a couple in the accumulator.

Hope you don't regret not replacing the condenser. You can rarely flush modern ones with any success.
I might find a cutaway pic of a condenser tube just for fun. They have micro tubes within the visible tubes. Pretty crazy engineering.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2019, 08:25:31 PM by KensAuto »
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2019, 10:36:35 PM »
Micro tube? Who comes up with this stuff? Thanks Ken I called the service manager and he said that it was 7.1 ounces so that is what I went with. The thing is cooling great now except this thing doesn't cool well at a stop. I don't know if it is all of these trucks or just mine?

Offline Sammconn

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2019, 11:19:44 PM »
When did you last clean the cooling stack?
You’re likely clogged with grass feathers dirt etc if you haven’t in the last couple years.

I’m due again been a few years now 5-6 and I’m having same thing.
A little throttle to get fan moving air cools immediately.
Mine is clogged again. A bit of a pain to clean but possibly your issue now.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2019, 12:51:10 PM »
Micro tube? Who comes up with this stuff? Thanks Ken I called the service manager and he said that it was 7.1 ounces so that is what I went with. The thing is cooling great now except this thing doesn't cool well at a stop. I don't know if it is all of these trucks or just mine?

that is EXACTLY what mine was doing right before the resistor/heat sink finned aluminum bs whatever you call it, (help Ken) fried itself. strong ozone smell for a few days then it stopped blowing cold altogether. easy to get to when you pop the glove box out, took about 20 min to replace. not too expensive either. just can't remember the darned name.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2019, 09:28:35 PM »
When did you last clean the cooling stack?
You’re likely clogged with grass feathers dirt etc if you haven’t in the last couple years.

I’m due again been a few years now 5-6 and I’m having same thing.
A little throttle to get fan moving air cools immediately.
Mine is clogged again. A bit of a pain to clean but possibly your issue now.

I did that about 3 years ago, that may be it and it sure wouldn't hurt to give it a good clean even if it isn't.

Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2019, 09:33:40 PM »
Micro tube? Who comes up with this stuff? Thanks Ken I called the service manager and he said that it was 7.1 ounces so that is what I went with. The thing is cooling great now except this thing doesn't cool well at a stop. I don't know if it is all of these trucks or just mine?

that is EXACTLY what mine was doing right before the resistor/heat sink finned aluminum bs whatever you call it, (help Ken) fried itself. strong ozone smell for a few days then it stopped blowing cold altogether. easy to get to when you pop the glove box out, took about 20 min to replace. not too expensive either. just can't remember the darned name.
The blower control module? If cleaning the cooling stack doesn't fix it I will look into swap that out

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2019, 10:16:19 PM »
First question I would ask is what temp do you consider "not cold enough" at idle? Out here right now, we're lucky to get them in the high 50's at an idle, with the blower set on high.

The blower module would just prevent it from blowing air out the vents.
If it's blowing, but just blows less cold (and there's actually an issue), then it's either building too much pressure (radiator fins plugged, bad fan clutch, etc.), too much oil in the system (did you make sure the compressor didn't come pre-charged with oil?), or the condenser is restricted internally. I assume the compressor stays engaged, at idle, when it quits cooling? How much r134 did you charge it with? Did you pull a decent vacuum (at least 25in)?  There are other things, but I listed the most common.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2019, 10:41:38 PM »
First question I would ask is what temp do you consider "not cold enough" at idle? Out here right now, we're lucky to get them in the high 50's at an idle, with the blower set on high.

The blower module would just prevent it from blowing air out the vents.
If it's blowing, but just blows less cold (and there's actually an issue), then it's either building too much pressure (radiator fins plugged, bad fan clutch, etc.), too much oil in the system (did you make sure the compressor didn't come pre-charged with oil?), or the condenser is restricted internally. I assume the compressor stays engaged, at idle, when it quits cooling? How much r134 did you charge it with? Did you pull a decent vacuum (at least 25in)?  There are other things, but I listed the most common.

Why is it I have the feeling Ken is about to say I told you so?

AT 100 deg outside temp and a 5 minute cool down at idle with the compressor clutch engaged the temp set at 68 on both sides with the fan on high the air out of the vents is reading 89 deg.

The compressor came dry per O'Reilly's and I turned it upside down and let it sit for 30 minutes and no oil came out(it is a Murray) I put 7.1 ounces of oil (amount I got from the Chevy dealership/ O'Reilly's  told me 7.7) spinning the compressor 30 times in each direction to prevent hydro lock. I pulled a vacuum of 29 inches for 4 hours and it held it for 2 hours. I put in 2.7 pounds per a cheap set of digital scales.

I'll try cleaning out the cooling stack and check the fan clutch. I have a bad feeling that those micro tubes may have gotten me

Offline Flyin6

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2019, 08:56:28 AM »
That or it's just too freakin hot out there!

I hear Texas breached some sort of ceiling on electricity consumption yesterday due to this heat wave.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2019, 09:15:32 AM »
We did Don but the cool thing (amongst many) is that texas has its own grid. We don’t rely on anyone


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Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2019, 09:57:52 AM »
Do you have a set of gauges? Pressures would help diagnose.
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Offline Flyin6

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2019, 10:21:46 AM »
We did Don but the cool thing (amongst many) is that texas has its own grid. We don’t rely on anyone


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Offline stlaser

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2019, 10:49:55 AM »
Ashley has been crying about the heat down there......

So I sent him a pic of my outside temp gauge this morning at 6 am, showed 59 degrees. In no uncertain terms I was told to shut the F up!  :tongue:
Living in the remote north hoping Ken doesn’t bring H up here any time soon…..

Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #15 on: August 14, 2019, 08:29:53 PM »
Do you have a set of gauges? Pressures would help diagnose.

Yes I do. I check the fan clutch and with as hard as I could spin the fan (with the cover in place) I was only able to get about 1/3 of a rotation on the fan.

Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #16 on: August 18, 2019, 09:31:10 PM »
Cleaned the cooling stack it may have done the trick but the test will be tomorrow afternoon more to come

Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #17 on: August 31, 2019, 11:20:52 AM »
The truck is cooling better at idle but not great. Going down the road it will flat freeze you out of the truck! I get 48 deg air out of the ducts! Currently I think I should have replaced the condenser but with it working so well over all I may just say good enough for now and replace it the next time I have to get in the system or when I get mad at it. Ken I can get the pressure readings if you think that it would lead us to a different cause.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #18 on: September 02, 2019, 01:53:44 PM »
I'm just worried that if it is an issue with the condenser, your new compressor won't be new for long.
Pressures would tell you if it's plugged.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #19 on: September 02, 2019, 05:46:46 PM »
I'm just worried that if it is an issue with the condenser, your new compressor won't be new for long.
Pressures would tell you if it's plugged.

Very good point that I didn't think of. Plans with the family this evening I will try and get the readings tomorrow afternoon

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #20 on: September 02, 2019, 11:58:09 PM »
Conditions:
Engine warmed up, idling, preferably in the shade to keep windshield/dash temps down.
A/C on, blower speed high, recirculation (max).
Vent temp as close to as bad as you've seen (if you check pressures while the vent temp is close to normal, the pressures will probably be close to normal).

Report back.
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Offline rpar86

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #21 on: September 12, 2019, 07:26:19 PM »
First question I would ask is what temp do you consider "not cold enough" at idle? Out here right now, we're lucky to get them in the high 50's at an idle, with the blower set on high.

The blower module would just prevent it from blowing air out the vents.
If it's blowing, but just blows less cold (and there's actually an issue), then it's either building too much pressure (radiator fins plugged, bad fan clutch, etc.), too much oil in the system (did you make sure the compressor didn't come pre-charged with oil?), or the condenser is restricted internally. I assume the compressor stays engaged, at idle, when it quits cooling? How much r134 did you charge it with? Did you pull a decent vacuum (at least 25in)?  There are other things, but I listed the most common.

Why is it I have the feeling Ken is about to say I told you so?

AT 100 deg outside temp and a 5 minute cool down at idle with the compressor clutch engaged the temp set at 68 on both sides with the fan on high the air out of the vents is reading 89 deg.

The compressor came dry per O'Reilly's and I turned it upside down and let it sit for 30 minutes and no oil came out(it is a Murray) I put 7.1 ounces of oil (amount I got from the Chevy dealership/ O'Reilly's  told me 7.7) spinning the compressor 30 times in each direction to prevent hydro lock. I pulled a vacuum of 29 inches for 4 hours and it held it for 2 hours. I put in 2.7 pounds per a cheap set of digital scales.

I'll try cleaning out the cooling stack and check the fan clutch. I have a bad feeling that those micro tubes may have gotten me

I fear you overcharged the system as the owners manual calls for 1.6 lbs, or 25.6 oz.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #22 on: September 14, 2019, 11:37:55 PM »
Conditions:
Engine warmed up, idling, preferably in the shade to keep windshield/dash temps down.
A/C on, blower speed high, recirculation (max).
Vent temp as close to as bad as you've seen (if you check pressures while the vent temp is close to normal, the pressures will probably be close to normal).

Report back.

Along with water pump going out on the truck, the son's (the one overseas) house getting some storm damage and the grandson truck getting hit while he was parked in his school parking lot I was able to get the cages on the truck today.

Outside temp = 96 degrees
Static=engine off
High side = 95 PSI
Low Side = 90 PSI

Inside temp set a 68 degrees on recirculate / max after 5 minute cool down air in the center duct was coming out at 50 degrees

Idle
High side = 290 PSI
Low side = 52 PSI

What do you think Ken?

I also have a new problem: when I was checking the cages the clutch never disengaged with even turning the inside temp up to 80 degrees on both sides. I could hear the old compressor before it locked up engaging and disengaging so that would make me thing that it is the new clutch on the compressor.

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #23 on: September 15, 2019, 02:23:15 AM »
Ryan's post forced me to reread your original posts. Yeah, too much freon.

Pretty sure he's right and I flat out missed it. Chevy trucks have specs for single and dual a/c, like a Yukon, even though pickups only have front AC.
 1.6 lbs. sounds right.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #24 on: September 15, 2019, 04:02:20 PM »
Ryan's post forced me to reread your original posts. Yeah, too much freon.

Pretty sure he's right and I flat out missed it. Chevy trucks have specs for single and dual a/c, like a Yukon, even though pickups only have front AC.
 1.6 lbs. sounds right.

So bleed off some in small amounts until it cool at idle? Or bleed the whole system down and pull another vacuum and re-fill?

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #25 on: September 15, 2019, 05:02:02 PM »
Vac and refill to get exact amount. You can try to bleed and go by the gauges, but you can't get it perfect.

Ideally, with the conditions in your last post, you should've had about 40-45 on the low side and 220-250 on the high side.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #26 on: September 16, 2019, 08:16:32 PM »
Vac and refill to get exact amount. You can try to bleed and go by the gauges, but you can't get it perfect.

Ideally, with the conditions in your last post, you should've had about 40-45 on the low side and 220-250 on the high side.

May as well do it right. I'll stop and get 2 cans of Freon and and fill with the correct amount.

Would the over charge keep the clutch engaged or do I have another problem?

Offline KensAuto

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #27 on: September 16, 2019, 09:42:56 PM »
The clutch cycles at about 26psi on the low side, or excessive pressure on the high side (like 450psi).
 The vent temps have to dip to around 38-44 degrees to get it to drop the low pressure, to cycle. That usually won't happen at high 90s ambient with the blower speed on high.
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #28 on: October 07, 2019, 09:06:36 PM »
Sorry for the delay but tried to get a bunch of stuff done around the house because I had neck surgery and now can't lift over 8# until I go back and see the surgeon. Nothing over 8# sure stops you doing a bunch of stuff.

I pulled of the R-134, changed out the condenser coils and orifice tube(just to be safe) pulled a vacuum for 3 hours and held it for 3 hours. Refilled it with 1.7# of R-134 (sorry I forgot what the gauges read) and it seams to be working about the same, it will freeze you of the cab running down the road but if you are stuck in traffic or a long red light the inside temp starts going up. May just be the truck but it is getting cooler here and I can't do much of anything so I guess I will live with it until next year. Thanks Ken

Offline EL TATE

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #29 on: October 08, 2019, 12:21:37 PM »
Ken is the authority, but you are describing my exact situation in the lb7 when the module was going out. if I was sitting we cooked, and i'm thinking voltage regulation with the alternator spinning faster? Idk I make half this stuff up, but behind the glove box is the little module with a finned alum heat sink. look at the connections there and see if they're charred or the sheathing is melted. I followed the ozone smell till I found it
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Offline oklawall

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Re: Durmax AC problem
« Reply #30 on: October 08, 2019, 11:48:33 PM »
the one in my truck looks good not melted wiring, corrosion on the connector or the part itself I know it could be bad electrically looking for a diagram to ohm it out but my fan works good.

 

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