REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: swbhobie16 on May 01, 2017, 06:48:17 AM
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just gonna leave this here for a teaser since i don't have any pics yet.. but i've found one. made rj deal yesterday so it's 50% mine. taking some $$ today/tomorrow and figuring out a way to get it away this week.
1988 chevy cheyenne 3+3 r2500. original owner. straight as an arrow with no rust apart from minor surface oxidation under the paint. seized 350 (no matter.. you know what's going in it :cool:) 14 bolt of unknown gearing. and dry as a bone.
once i drop some $$ off, i'll get some more pics. it's less than 1 mile from my new house.
plan is to far it apart, blasted and epoxy primed. then just let it sit until i get a chance to actually start on it after his house reno and wedding. that's eating up time and $$ like a teenager (from what my parents have told me..) hahaha
and i know i know.. pics or it didn't happen. they're coming.
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:popcorn:
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dually? 4x4?
:popcorn:
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Waiting
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ask.. and ye shall receive
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/4136FD9D-F345-413E-8C39-644F6236DF23.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/D407661B-759A-477F-B9F5-1B20950E4730.jpg)
only spot of rust i could find so far.. bottom of passenger side B pillar
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/DCACD855-E6C8-429D-8A95-ED9D297F30F5.jpg)
rear passenger floorboard.. factory fresh
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/82DCB18C-0885-49E4-ACF6-498657C4270C_1.jpg)
passenger side front cab mount and under the floor pan..
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/892DC861-D1BF-4795-AD08-FCF392CD8883.jpg)
original owners manual..
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/100F5040-8D04-4EB9-A7AA-BB03608E9DF9.jpg)
(http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt284/swbhobie16/444A94FF-3754-4A34-8DBE-CE5ACB1330B8.jpg)
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Nice. A buddy of mine has one of those, 4x4, with the bed removed and frame bobbed. It is his off-road rig. Sits on 40" tires, with lockers front and rear.
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I think that a certain canine might be a little tee'd off when his shade is suddenly moved.
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Gotta convert to Dually jus sayin
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a dually for me would be impractical. too wide.. and added weight. i won't pull anything that would need that anyway. plus.. crew cab short bed square body on 20s and 35/37s will look killer.. IMHO.
it'll most likely end up with helper springs and bags (load leveling..) for pulling and better unloaded ride quality. haven't made any decisions on front end yet.. but 4 link and coils would be awesome. would ride like a new F250..
who knows.. it's just bones at the moment. it'll be a minute before anything major happens to it. just wanted to actually prove i found one. lol
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a dually for me would be impractical. too wide.. and added weight. i won't pull anything that would need that anyway. plus.. crew cab short bed square body on 20s and 35/37s will look killer.. IMHO.
it'll most likely end up with helper springs and bags (load leveling..) for pulling and better unloaded ride quality. haven't made any decisions on front end yet.. but 4 link and coils would be awesome. would ride like a new F250..
who knows.. it's just bones at the moment. it'll be a minute before anything major happens to it. just wanted to actually prove i found one. lol
Please don't curse about this fledgling Chevy on this forum. I'm sure your new truck is already insecure enough around all these monster builds than to be labeled as a failure!
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My friend's dad has a 3+3 CC Dually. Question tho... what does the 3+3 refer do? The seating configuration?
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My friend's dad has a 3+3 CC Dually. Question tho... what does the 3+3 refer do? The seating configuration?
I'm pretty sure it is....3 on a bench plus 3 on the second bench. There weren't the # of 4 door pick-ups back then as today. And most today have buckets up front.
I do miss the bench seat in my pickups for riding with the wife. :cheesy:
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Gotta convert to Dually jus sayin
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Duallys are overrated imo.......
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Gotta convert to Dually jus sayin
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Duallys are overrated imo.......
SHOTS FIRED!
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Gotta convert to Dually jus sayin
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Duallys are overrated imo.......
he was just saying what everyone was thinking..
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I've had both, unless it's a flatbed work truck (cab & chassis) for hauling heavy whatever I see no use for them. My single rear wheel one ton pulled my 36' enclosed GN just fine. I suppose if you're pulling a 25k trailer then it's a must as well. But for the average guy it's just more expensive to operate.
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im with you there. hoping this truck is going to be a pretty grocery getting as well as a pretty sweet riding and heavy pulling truck (when needed)
basically.. a brand new cummins powered 89 chevy 3+3.
we shall see..
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Gotta convert to Dually jus sayin
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Duallys are overrated imo.......
SHOTS FIRED!
I don't listen to hippies....
There are those that can drive and park, and those that make excuses....
:sticktongueout
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Who needs a "dooley" when you can tow 187 tons of logs with a 350 V8 3/4 ton :popcorn:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL4OeiMjvtk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LL4OeiMjvtk)
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Funny that they never went over 4mph........I guess breaks might be the issue?
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Duallies are overrated. They just made better leaf springs back then.
..60' fully furnished single wide(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170504/bf8c824251d21cb5a7f2d0abdc7c0a40.jpg)
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Ken, is that a recent picture of you moving H in for retirement? :popcorn:
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Naw, the a** on the left conned me into moving his home for 100 bucks, then didn't pay me. We spent most of the day digging it out and installing several axles...But, it was still fun.
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That frame looked like toast pulling those logs. Brakes?
That 3+3 will have a 1/4 wall frame. Gonna bob it off for the short bed?
I always wanted an old chevy extended cab which they never made. Saw a couple customs though and still want one!
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Naw, the a** on the left conned me into moving his home for 100 bucks, then didn't pay me. We spent most of the day digging it out and installing several axles...But, it was still fun.
Is the guy on the left related?
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Naw, the a** on the left conned me into moving his home for 100 bucks, then didn't pay me. We spent most of the day digging it out and installing several axles...But, it was still fun.
Is the guy on the left related?
SHOTS FIRED!!! :popcorn:
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There goes another good thread. Dang hippie s.
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So that's a resounding no?
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the plan is to bob 14" out of it, put a short box on it, either 4link or leaf spring a front dana 60 (unsure of drop yet, since i will most likely decide that once drivetrain is picked out) with some 18/20s and 35s. going for a brand new old truck look.
we will see once things start moving.
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so i know this build is a little ways off yet, but i'm trying to find a direction with it.
one tons. yes.
cummins (either 2nd gen 12 valve ppump or common rail and auto) yes
short bed. yes
leather interior. yes.
35"-37s. yes.
BUT.. the question remains with the front axle/suspension.
do i either
A. wait for a unicorn 79 f350 HP kingpin dana 60 with leaves.
B same axle with long arms and coils
C. Mid 90s F350 ball joint 60 (8x6.5 lugs) with either option A or B
or
D. stick with basically stock 1 ton chevy (or first gen cummins) PSD dana 60 and leaves (simplest)
i suppose i could always do something silly like 99+ f250/350 front and rear too.. but that just messes up wheel choices i suppose. (just gets away from the 'period' and moves into the 8x170)
leaves wouldn't be terrible.. mainly bc they would be alcans. but.. can't say it wouldn't be cool to have a coil sprung, long arm crew cab square body cummins
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I don't think the ford 60 kingpin is that hard to find. See em on ebay and CL all the time.
Ball joints sound like they get a bad rep. Didn't know much about em until I read up a little.
Ppump, stay away from electronics.
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i know i know about the electronics. but i want to have all the modern day amenities. and a common rail would fit the bill 100%. easily tunable. quieter. remote start. the works.
but.. a nicely polished 12 valve sitting under the hood would be super clean. and awesome. and did i mention the sound?? hahah
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If you can get a hold of Norm I believe he's got some 78-79 ford HP housings laying around
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If you need norms cell pm me....
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If you need norms cell pm me....
ohh he's on speed dial. hahah
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That's the only thing that happens with speed involving Norm because I guarantee any conversation with him will not be speedy.....
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He has been low key lately, unhappy about something?
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I think he's just been busy, takes him several days to answer a text past few months.
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i officially have possession of the title to the '89. just been waiting on the duplicate to come back from DMV (i took the form to original owner and helped him fill it out hahah) going to hopefully get it off relatively soon. and when i get back from ohio (NFL HOF gig) ill figure out how to get it to the shop and start some disassembly/collection of a short bed from somewhere so i can start taking measurements for bobbing the bed.
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Let’s bring another back from the dead!!!
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man this one was awhile ago too! fortunately i have some pics to show as well..
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.
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man it’s going to take awhile to upload these pics.. hahah
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Try getting em down to around 1200, much easier to load. Pics are great, but not framing quality :azn:
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I'd 3 link a Chevy Dana 60 front. 35-37" rubber won't require much lift. No real need for the reverse rotation housing. Unless your going to use a more modern drivers drop transfer case.
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I'm guessing he's already done Norm.
The best way to do pics is upload on Imgur, then transfer here. Takes up less site space as well (altho the boss doesn't seem to care according to how many terabytes he uses. lol).
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Agree with Ken, I use imgur
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i have a chevy dana 60 i’m working on getting back together at the moment. crossover/ hi steer with 4” lift. somewhere between 35” and 37” worth of nitto G2s will go under it. completely rebuilt 6 bolt round NP205 with all the goodies. just found my drivetrain.. :laugh:
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what i started with. 6 bolt round NP205 32 spline long input. had already been rebuilt with new bearings and seals.
(https://i.imgur.com/EShRU7e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uGUkYPz.jpg)
so of course i completely dismantle it and..
(https://i.imgur.com/zdpz3MU.jpg)
sand blast all the paint off. wrong color. hahah
now with that pesky black out of the way, time to get back on track
self etching primer
(https://i.imgur.com/JSNNOP0.jpg)
massey ferguson gray for utilitarian as well as aesthetic purposes. will go well with what was planned..
(https://i.imgur.com/ixOcbrV.jpg)
SRW dana 60 on the cheap (will soon find out why..)
(https://i.imgur.com/LDcKMCa.jpg)
big box of goodies from a buddy in CA
(https://i.imgur.com/IwAlErM.jpg)
bling on the 205
(https://i.imgur.com/45FYx0J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vzTdftZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YZ8dy8R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zKv1oT5.jpg)
female/female 29 spline coupler for the.. trans :beercheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/E54lvEK.jpg)
nearly finally shot of the rear (sans E brake)
(https://i.imgur.com/DF7a796.jpg)
forgot to order a 32 spline front output shaft.. so back apart it came to swap ofer and reinstall
(https://i.imgur.com/YnR9Wjd.jpg)
clearance for twin stick cables and e brake disk.. that was a close one
(https://i.imgur.com/66KAAh0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FuS031q.jpg)
front done with new 32 spline output and drive flange, adjustable shift rail detents and twin stick rails
(https://i.imgur.com/IyFboQx.jpg)
tapped diff housing for breather
(https://i.imgur.com/xwobx1r.jpg)
and customizing a custom part. needed a vent hole for the 205 since the old one will me directly under the E brake mechanism and no longer a viable source. this is the plug built for the speedo gear block off.
(https://i.imgur.com/ntE5ljY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0314him.jpg)
cleaned and painted knuckles
(https://i.imgur.com/5AUYufX.jpg)
and hubs
(https://i.imgur.com/39zUQ6Z.jpg)
speedo/tapped vent plug and VSS machined hole in output bearing housing
(https://i.imgur.com/Xlp05G8.jpg)
used to be a stabilizer shock there.. no more
(https://i.imgur.com/saY8pfN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D8WxEsf.jpg)
i did this color combo.. what do y’all think?
(https://i.imgur.com/9LyCmZO.jpg)
vents
(https://i.imgur.com/IiOwpP3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N44YloR.jpg)
and now the moment i’ve been waiting for.. unveiling the heart of this beast. been a year long search and some real close calls with some. but the wait is over and (fingers crossed) worth it.
2007 LBZ with supposedly 160k on the clock. 2wd 6 speed allison at the moment but will soon be 4wd thanks to some clever negotiation and good luck. took a good 5 speed 4wd allison from same seller to swap out output housings and make the 6 a 4wd and 5 a 2wd (he has a 2wd LLY dually he wants a spare for and i needed a 4wd 6 speed. all should be corrected and returned to him shortly..
(https://i.imgur.com/jF7ZP7T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s49lvxa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nr8TU0K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3pmgmFL.jpg)
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I'm guessing he's already done Norm.
The best way to do pics is upload on Imgur, then transfer here. Takes up less site space as well (altho the boss doesn't seem to care according to how many terabytes he uses. lol).
Yep, I'm ma own worse enemy!
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dang .. did i do something wrong?
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Nope, and this build is looking really nice.
I love that Massey- Ferguson gray...like my Lycoming aircraft engine gray.
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dang swbhobie16, that is some quality work right there!
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And you’re quick too!! All that work in a few minutes. lol
Looking sharp.
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Dmax swap. Heck yeah. Nice, clean work also!
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Stupid question, cuz I like asking them... what flavor of self etching primer do you use? It’s something I need but for some reason have never really sought it out.
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Don't use the Summit stuff. Roof on the burb rusted right through that.
Like the choice of colors there Norm, I am SURE Don approves.
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This is a build I can get behind. Less of this dodge cumapart junk. Maybe this one will run
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not a whole lot done the last day or so. been working on shop maintenance mostly. but i did cobble together an engine dolly to be able to move the drive train around with ease. narrow end will hold the trans cross member and have some lags from the top to keep it from wobbling. wider/taller side should land just under the upper oil pan on a flat spot (where it’s currently resting). may have to notch the wood some to get it to sit correctly. but you get the idea.
(https://i.imgur.com/6FptQm3.jpg)
also managed to get the fan and shroud off. multiple reasons. wanted to get at the front/lower section of the engine for cleaning and also turn the crank. which it does. thankfully. made 1 full unobstructed revolution with good compressing (no numbers obviously.. just arm tested it. haha)
(https://i.imgur.com/5jOG1Fy.jpg)
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Great idea, made a low cart for mine in another thread.
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seeing an LBZ going into this truck, makes me think of this thread I saw started back in 2012:
https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44381
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my engine won’t be that clean. but exterior should be close :beercheers:
i want the engine bay to appear factory with the hood popped. minus that pesky EGR and such. clean turbo intake and engine intake. with a 3” downpipe. much skinnier wiring harness. and no blower box on the fire wall.. hah
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before
(https://i.imgur.com/IrdMiNM.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/p74YmK8.jpg)
before
(https://i.imgur.com/ej4eyyy.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/9SDHDnp.jpg)
now.. with all the pesky pics out of the way, i’ve run into a pickle. found the VIN. ran car fax, doesn’t have 160k as stated by owner. is showing 232k in 2015.
so:
1: keep it and say to heck with numbers. looks good and may be just fine.
2: see if seller will take it back for purchase price and find another
3: sell it and the trans he let me take for profit and never talk to him again.. :police:
but really.. any and everyone with real life duramax experience, any and all input is appreciated greatly.
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Call him out on it and see what he says. As much as you have in it , or will have in it, I’d want to freshen it up or find something newer if you can’t get him to take it back
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Never hurts to talk
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You have it out this far. As Tex said you can only ask.
All else build it big and mean!!
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I would talk to him for sure. Even 225k is not bad but I would do the tranny while out.
I hear of many of these going 400-500 so with the EGR delete you should be fine.
Mine is 162k right now and runs great.
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i’ve already brought it to his attention. he still stands by it saying 160k when he pulled it. and if that were the case i’d be ecstatic. but as it stands now, the VIN i have shows 233 in 2015. nothing since. so i really have no idea how many miles are on it. i havent asked about swapping it back out.. but i know he did want it for a project truck at one point. i just wanted to ask opinions before going that route. i wish there was a way to know. i mean.. i guess it couldnt really have been on the road much without inspection or anything since 2015. i know the mileage is only stored in the cluster. which has been long gone. and i’m just trusting him that it does have 160 instead of 223 and that carfax is wrong..
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Given the last go around with the 12v, I would still pull it down and check it out, replace the HGs and maybe freshen the heads.
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Was the vin plate on the engine, or the body of the truck it was pulled from? Maybe it was swapped at one point?
Edit: found a post that states the vin would also be in the ECM.
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My 2 cents, it’s tough to buy a motor used and run it with any expectation of reliability. So you have two options, buy new crate motor and or find a unit to go completely thru. The secondary part of that normally involves another person with machine equipment and my experience on multiple occasions with them is they can bring the suck.
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last 8 of VIN are found on the trans and engine (only found the ones on trans at this point) contacted the guy again about taking it back with the understanding he’s looking for another LBZ and once he does he has it sold as well (to me. providing i hear it run and have VIN run before that.. i keep the other one until that happens) we shall see what he says. that’s the pivotal point. time will tell. will keep you posted
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I’m still unsure how you can look up the vehicle history from a VIN with only the last 8? The last 6 are just a serial number. Digit 10 is the year, 11 is the factory city code, and 12-17 are the serial.
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The serial # is what identifies the vehicle.
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I’m still unsure how you can look up the vehicle history from a VIN with only the last 8? The last 6 are just a serial number. Digit 10 is the year, 11 is the factory city code, and 12-17 are the serial.
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with the last 8 on the machined surface begin engine oil filter on the allison trans, i took them to a chevy dealer and gave it to the parts guy. with that he gave me the other 9. which i then took and ran a carfax on.
i’m just kind of at a loss as to what to do right now. waiting to hear back from the guy and his uncle about swapping it back out with a better motor with a vid and a VIN before picking it up. all the while i’d keep what i already have as collateral (potentially..)
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Do you need this immediately? Or can if be a build it up and upgrade parts as you have time/money? If you can deal with the time/money aspect and don't need it immediately I'd personally keep it, you already have it in your garage.
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no sir. i don’t need it tomorrow or anything. i just wish i knew how many miles were actually on it. bc the last one i looked at and got close getting one that had 440k instead of 140k as the owner thought. but it has 200ish K on it 3 years ago too. but fortunately was kept up with at the DMV and such. but this one hasn’t had a thing recorded since 2015. so..good and bad? from 2012 to 2015 it only had 15k put on it..
i just don’t know. i wanted to just get a good low mileage runner that just needed up and down pipes. EGR delete and intake. and modified harness.
still awaiting the sellers response. i’ll contact him maybe mid week if i haven’t heard back.
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no sir. i don’t need it tomorrow or anything. i just wish i knew how many miles were actually on it. bc the last one i looked at and got close getting one that had 440k instead of 140k as the owner thought. but it has 200ish K on it 3 years ago too. but fortunately was kept up with at the DMV and such. but this one hasn’t had a thing recorded since 2015. so..good and bad? from 2012 to 2015 it only had 15k put on it..
i just don’t know. i wanted to just get a good low mileage runner that just needed up and down pipes. EGR delete and intake. and modified harness.
still awaiting the sellers response. i’ll contact him maybe mid week if i haven’t heard back.
Makes sense, but if I was in this situation and had the storage area and the ability for the time and effort that you clearly put into the other aspects of the build, I'd just keep it and make it better. But that's me. Good luck either way.
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i appreciate the kind words and confidence. i’m really just waiting to hear from the guy with a response. either way, i think i’ll end up with a good power plant.
now that it’s clean and in the shop, it can just sit until a resolution is decided upon.
but, yesterday was a big for for the 60. USPS finally managed to not destroy the box (happened once before) so my pass side inner axle shaft, 35 spline outers and pinion yoke/seal/nut and upgraded pinned spindle nuts/washers arrived. the drivers side inner was already here so it was primed and painted. now the other 3 are hung, primed as painted as well. needed to get them done so i can assemble later this week.
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both 35 spline outers, short side inner, pinion yoke, seal, nut and spindle nuts.
(https://i.imgur.com/89Bl0Nr.jpg)
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:popcorn:
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start off with some comparisons.
old, worn out 30 spline outer vs new spicer 35 spline upgraded outer.
(https://i.imgur.com/XDn7tcH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IZQdoiK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VLWXBa0.jpg)
now.. for the new shiny :cool:
(https://i.imgur.com/N0YEaRO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kvwwQ4K.jpg)
new u joints being installed in between new inners and outers.
(https://i.imgur.com/hgUsnaB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JBHiuSF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pO88qTx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/It3eLp2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JadcJr6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cGis8RX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yEForyH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJ57kLT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vfbYIkw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jh6zRwl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s0QB0a0.jpg)
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in case anyone was wondering what part # the U joints were.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qws0ewi.jpg)
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Very nice work and in Dons fav color!
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decided to do a quick job before dinner. i figured i was done in the axle so far as cleaning was concerned.. so in went inner axle seals.
before. completely bare minus bearing races
(https://i.imgur.com/DmVb4qf.jpg)
empty seal surface
(https://i.imgur.com/bEZayXF.jpg)
test fit, just to make sure i had the right ones. hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/VAvFgV2.jpg)
questionably the best $130 (came with seals as well..) i’ve ever spent. i know it sounds like a lot for a simple tool, but when i tell you it took longer to write this post than install both inner axle seals.. you’ll get one too.
(https://i.imgur.com/Q3W0PYp.jpg)
the retainer pin comes off when using. just helps hold the slide end on when in storage.
(https://i.imgur.com/qa39Isa.jpg)
slip it in place, snug up the nut
(https://i.imgur.com/ic2Y1Bu.jpg)
2 adjustable wrenches to hold bolt and turn nut.. and you’re off to the races.
(https://i.imgur.com/VvC7XAm.jpg)
30 seconds later.. with 2 peaks to make sure it didn’t go too far, you’re done
(https://i.imgur.com/NkAAUIq.jpg)
what they look like on the new inner shaft/seal surfaces
(https://i.imgur.com/7TdiYd0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XWCalrS.jpg)
and the other side
(https://i.imgur.com/B7hjUZk.jpg)
total time.. in 25° temps. about 15 min. that was with taking pics and keeping up with a dog. hahah
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Great write up. Thx
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Very nice work and in Dons fav color!
Yea, bout to say that!
Nice work!
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It’s amazing what torque can come from a screw
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i wanted to give it some detail under there. even though i’m most likely the only person to ever look under there. hahah. just needed some touches of color to offset the black hole that is the underside of a 1 ton truck.
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Nice attention to detail
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Nice tool there. Now that's its used want to sell it? :rolleyes: I make just have to make one or "borrow" one otherwise. Have 2 to do now.
Wondering looking at this and my axles, would they benefit from painting the shaft since the 60 does not have a wet shaft?
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that tool looks like it came from Quad 4x4 or Torque King is what they call themselves now? You cant pay more!!!
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well.. i did find (and purchased) a set of external axle seals for the 60 to keep junk out of the tubes (mostly dust and rain/warer) the truck will most likely never see ‘mud’ up that high, but dirt roads/trails possibly. and obviously rain while driving. company name is Seals-it. i’ll have some pics of them later. i may shoot a coat of clear on them to compare and see which finish i like better (satin or crystal clear)
and yes, torque king is where i bought the tool from. sounded high when i was looking, but i’m telling you..after last night and seeing how easy/effortless it was, very glad to have had it. may end up sound the ones on the kaiser next just hyde he’s getting some gear oil seapage after driving in 4x4 for a bit and sitting in a slight angle. just out the drivers side. and not a ton. but.. i don’t like leaks. lol
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Not complaining about the quality or price of their tools, I think when I did my D60/70 overhaul I spent as much in their tools as I did in parts! It made the rebuild much easier having the tools they sell.
I did the same thing for my D60 Off Road Design sells the outer seals for the tubes the P/N GU5117, I guess we saw the same thing inside the tubes I think i removed 2lbs of dirt out of the tubes when I did my overhaul.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60UpgradeParts.htm
Please do not use the stage 8 spindle nut system on the GM/Dodge axles at least on the 93 and older versions, its a great system but will chew up your hubs, or at least that was my experience.
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Wonderfull, now that I got sets for 2 axles! One cheby and one ferd.
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the insides of my were terrible. rust scale and oily sand from when it was blasted as well. but when i saw those seals i was sold.
i got spicer spindle nuts. it said ford f-350, but if im not mistaken they were all the same part number. i just wanted the ones with the pin on the washer and not the fold down ears.
hopefully those will be going in shortly.. with pics to follow or course. hahah
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ORD and Torque King are good customers of mine. That seal installer won't work for disconnect design, like Mopar front housings and earlier yj/xj with the vacuum disconnect, but they are a day saver on EVERYTHING else.
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good thing i don’t anticipate doing any CAD 60s and such. hahaha just stick with the king pins and ford 60s
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What they made a CAD D60? Was that some kind of special edition or something?
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since it may be warm enough to paint tomorrow, i wanted to get what might need rolling and turning out of the way. so in went lower king pin bearing races and dust shields.
(https://i.imgur.com/GARsLe0.jpg)
it didn’t call or any.. but i figured what the heck, RTV can’t be that bad on a somewhat (in my head) seal surface.
(https://i.imgur.com/lRT0Zj7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3pAjD3M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8YlfF6j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0p0ZTLr.jpg)
back upright, king pins.
in case anyone was wondering.. this is what 600ft lbs looks like without a $1200 torque wrench. hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/XhblI7F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lptbWJ4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uVSIYs0.jpg)
also, just for reference, this offset mark is the difference between tighter than anything known to man and hand tight. not even alittle kidding. made this mark while taking off the old ones, so i figured i might as well use it for reference while tightening to an unholy level.
(https://i.imgur.com/b3M6ZPE.jpg)
i put the new king pins in hand tight, retarded the mark the same amounted the one, and set to work with archimedes’ lever in an attempt to move the world.
this is the result
(https://i.imgur.com/JwT90Z7.jpg)
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What they made a CAD D60? Was that some kind of TNR special edition or something?
center axle disconnect. mid 90s dodges were equipt with them. 2nd gen cummins. they’re kind of junk..
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Never worked on that series of truck, didn’t know those were CAD. I knew the mid 80s to early 90s D44 were CAD in the Dodges but I did not know they did it on the D60s in that series. Learn something new everyday.
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Nice job on the axles Hercules!! Also, I’m always impressed at your level cleanliness. I try to keep things clean, and with those efforts still looks like rust,dirt,paint, grease, rubber, you name it bomb went off in the garage.
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thanks for the kind words.
and yes, the 2nd gen cummins axles were a 3 piece shaft. so the passenger side had a crazy box with a vacuum disconnect that slid a collar locked it to the far passenger side shaft. odd.
.. and they’re ball joint. so double whammy no go. hahah
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Nice work so far. Are you going with the spring caps or preload?
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Nice work so far. Are you going with the spring caps or preload?
springless hi/crossover steering. they have a center ‘set bolt’ that applies preload on the bushing. the kit came with bronze ones. but i’m debating on using just the nylon ones from spicer. just odd putting metal on metal on a turning surface. but.. i guess all greased up its fine.
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since it may be warm enough to paint tomorrow, i wanted to get what might need rolling and turning out of the way. so in went lower king pin bearing races and dust shields.
(https://i.imgur.com/GARsLe0.jpg)
it didn’t call or any.. but i figured what the heck, RTV can’t be that bad on a somewhat (in my head) seal surface.
(https://i.imgur.com/lRT0Zj7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3pAjD3M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8YlfF6j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0p0ZTLr.jpg)
back upright, king pins.
in case anyone was wondering.. this is what 600ft lbs looks like without a $1200 torque wrench. hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/XhblI7F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lptbWJ4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uVSIYs0.jpg)
also, just for reference, this offset mark is the difference between tighter than anything known to man and hand tight. not even alittle kidding. made this mark while taking off the old ones, so i figured i might as well use it for reference while tightening to an unholy level.
(https://i.imgur.com/b3M6ZPE.jpg)
i put the new king pins in hand tight, retarded the mark the same amounted the one, and set to work with archimedes’ lever in an attempt to move the world.
this is the result
(https://i.imgur.com/JwT90Z7.jpg)
No body who ever attempted to remove a king pin would disagree!
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Take a look:
Torque Specs on Dana 60.
Ring-gear bolts- 110 (lb-ft)
Bearing-cap bolts- 85 (lb-ft)
Diffrential cover bolts- 35 (lb-ft)
Kingpin-to-end forging- 500-600 (lb-ft)
Knuckle-bearing cap bolts- 70-90 (lb-ft)
Steering arm to knuckle nuts- 70-90 (lb-ft)
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Nice work so far. Are you going with the spring caps or preload?
springless hi/crossover steering. they have a center ‘set bolt’ that applies preload on the bushing. the kit came with bronze ones. but i’m debating on using just the nylon ones from spicer. just odd putting metal on metal on a turning surface. but.. i guess all greased up its fine.
Bronze/Brass is good against steel, you will not have issues. They will be the last ones you will ever have to buy, almost every D60 I have taken apart the nylon bushing has been broken.
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Bronze is definately the way to go, but you might have to have them line honed after install. From what I remember (been about 20 years since I did one) they are a super tight fit once pressed in.
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No need to line hone them if machines correctly.
As far as removing kingpin there is a co now selling a weld on beater tool. You weld them onto kingpins then use a bfh to remove. Works like a dream, granted it’s a one time use tool unless you like torching and grinding...
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Yep, my nylons came out broken too.
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Yep, my nylons came out broken too.
have you been visiting the castro district again JR?
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I won't even go into the city at all.
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quick bearing/seal install while waiting for warmer weather tomorrow. hoping to get the housing painted so i can be ready for carrier install once in/lb dial indicator torque wrench shows up. along with new lower kingpin bearing plates. old ones showed wear i didn’t see during tear down. got a set of spicers coming my way. should be here friday.
i’ll just do one side for length.. but you get the idea.
(https://i.imgur.com/jX9CGgJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DtEFpl9.jpg)
this is simply the old race for the lower bearing. always handy to keep something around that has the correct OD
(https://i.imgur.com/3d0gUvn.jpg)
standard seal driver
(https://i.imgur.com/xilMOds.jpg)
aaaand done. took about 15 min. sure is nice being able to turn it upside down :grin:
(https://i.imgur.com/Gmm5O9M.jpg)
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got in alittle bit of trigger time today.
first off.. anyone seen a dana 60 hover? hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/qWwCQej.jpg)
yes.. i’m OCD sand taped off the seal/surround so it says nice and golden (will hit it with clear after it dries.
(https://i.imgur.com/dhuB75m.jpg)
shot of it before doing the diff cover (decided later that i may not offset the color of it.. so while i had the paint out i figured i’d go ahead and shoot it)
(https://i.imgur.com/faUJ55x.jpg)
and color..
(https://i.imgur.com/tClH6vo.jpg)
it’s all the same color now! now 2-3 different ones!
looks so much different than the way it’s been sitting for the last month waiting for parts..
(https://i.imgur.com/K4byD0w.jpg)
having the eye bolt in the front really makes a difference. with it in place, it’s very easy to get the axle from face down to upright easily and effectively. makes painting the whole way around very easy. and not having to rest on anything.
(https://i.imgur.com/CpSzYIq.jpg)
can still easily the BOM on the DS of diff on the tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/pryREF6.jpg)
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Ya know, that is a little OCD! :likebutton:
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Me too, and the eye bolt thing is a great idea!
Wonder how a big one in the stud hole would work?
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Me too, and the eye bolt thing is a great idea!
Wonder how a big one in the stud hole would work?
possibly quite well. i just needed to be able to roll it quickly while painting. but im sure a large bolt in the top would do the trick too!
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Just thinking that big one wouldn't bend as easy and gives access the gears.
What gears are going in?
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be the same ring and pinion/bearings that came out. 4.10s just pulled them to clean all the crud out of there and make sure the bearings were alright. after a lot of naphtha and air, they got plenty clean and back to near new. put some gear oil in them to make sure they were good (almost no noise..) whereas before it was terrible. just hope the gear mesh is correct and i can set the preload on the pinion with the shims that came out (one paaaaaper thin one was torn in half.. presumably since it was installed)
but the carrier bearings seem good. and the pressed on pinion bearing is back to no noise. only one i haven’t cleaned yet is the outer pinion bearing. but it looked fine
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Sounds promising. Did you make a spreader or just muscle it?
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I won't even go into the city at all.
HAHAHAHAHAHA
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no spreader. just kinda popped it out. i’m hoping they go back in much the same way. rollers and cages stayed on. races are the only things that came ‘apart’. hoping they slide back in. once that and the pinion is done, i don’t have any inhibitions about the rest. it’ll just be bolting on and not scratching. lol
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I have done that tapping the thick shims in last.
Good luck!
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there were no shims outside the races. seems as if (and i’ll check again) that they are in between the rollers and the carrier itself. so inside the pressed on bearing. i’ll double check. hoping to get it done this weekend.
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If you need any assistance just shoot me a message I'm happy to help.
.052 shim thickness starting point for pinion depth, if you need to add back in to the one that spit out
71-30 in/lb drag on the pinion bearings, rotating resistance, then final torque on the pinion nut is 225 ft/lbs
backlash should be between .006-.010 and the housing spreader is really so you can get it back in, so you may struggle with this a bit so don't be shocked. You are correct, the shims are between the bearings and the carrier and you shouldn't have to mess with them.
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will be trying to get it back in today. at least the pinion and carrier.
pics hopefully to follow. hah
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so i managed to get the gear set back in today. which was big. kind of the only ‘unknown’ thing i had on the agenda. everything else i’ve seen or done before..
to start with, outer bearing, oil slinger and seal went on.
(https://i.imgur.com/b2LarwI.jpg)
then pinion fed in from the bottom with it’s appropriate shims. pinion yoke our in top.
(https://i.imgur.com/7gFDIOg.jpg)
rolled her over, and this is what it looks like, sans guts.
(https://i.imgur.com/GxaXkle.jpg)
and with aforementioned guts..
(https://i.imgur.com/1e9UiNZ.jpg)
it went in without too much fuss. dropped it in and got it close, pried alittle bit to center it in the bearing race surfaces. put the bearing caps on.. started to bolts and tapped it with a rubber butted hammer. went right in little effort and no binding.
this was the setup. took me 20 min to figure out the best orientation of the arms to get the working end and parallel to the teeth faces as possible. hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/2GB7rLN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nFwNyDo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7FcfR13.jpg)
and just like that, there’s a pinion, yoke, carrier and gear set in the newly repainted housing for the first time in what seems like forever.
(https://i.imgur.com/fd5Nlvx.jpg)
also got the last (fingers crossed..) pieces needed for the axle rebuild. after closer inspection of the lower king pin bearing plates, the seal surfaces were just too far gone for me to comfortably put them back in knowing gravity would pull shiny red grease out the bottom and all over my pretty axle in short order..
so, a quick google search and spicer part located, both were on the way. showed up this afternoon. hope to get them painted tomorrow and maybe back on sunday.
(https://i.imgur.com/rJ3g47P.jpg)
big thanks to TATE for giving me the info and approval of tolerances on the gear setup. now to make sure that the pattern is right.
for those curious, pinion drag with no carrier: 8in/lbs (re used bearings)
pinion nut torque: 160ft/lbs (may/most likely will tighten up once it’s under the truck and held with tires and gears..)
backlash: .009-.010
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not a ton done today. but.. managed to bag a pair of woodducks on the last day this morning.
on to truck parts..
diff cover scuffed up
(https://i.imgur.com/HuHycpy.jpg)
inside of axle tube
(https://i.imgur.com/FyjqZlK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xgu6ZI3.jpg)
new outer axle seal installed on pass side
(https://i.imgur.com/8cZkS3g.jpg)
this is what it looked like
(https://i.imgur.com/reSoGEI.jpg)
pushed it in to this point, then whipped RTV on the backside of the lip to help with some waterproofing.
(https://i.imgur.com/0pb2ARS.jpg)
pushed it the rest of the way and tapped it in with a seal driver
(https://i.imgur.com/dAF2s3p.jpg)
once the half shafts are ready to go in, i’ll take the red grease and fill it up to the inne lips of the outer seal to help lube and to help with weather proofing also.
and cleaned up he original diff tag. may just make another just like it.. or paint this and run it
(https://i.imgur.com/f9E77DG.jpg)
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after a couple failed attempts to clear my pieces, i figured out the issue. would help if i read instructions first. hahaha. but now that the cussin’ and swearin’ is out of the way, i started from zero after some sand blasting. hoping to get knuckles and high steer arms on tomorrow.
stay tuned..
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a glimpse of the hardware for the diff cover
(https://i.imgur.com/fs9UEHx.jpg)
lower bearing plates. nice and clean
(https://i.imgur.com/g7RfZd4.jpg)
and bronze bushings :beercheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/xZhSI7V.jpg)
seal and bearing in place
(https://i.imgur.com/MDlPGQT.jpg)
studs in the knuckle
(https://i.imgur.com/4vg6fo7.jpg)
and here came my problem..
the bushing was .070 too tall. and the recess in the arm where the large washer rides was .070 too narrow too. so.. when i put the arm on it pressed in the bushing and didn’t allow the jamb bolt and nut for preload to work. so.. back to my machine buddy. he took .100 off of the top so that it can sit down inside the knuckle and let the preload bolt work.
(https://i.imgur.com/WwpPOBB.jpg)
but i managed after it was resolved. and it all bolted down. the axle is just slipped in to see how it looked/fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/JPYhc4G.jpg)
new spindle and old cleaned up caliper bracket mocked up..
(https://i.imgur.com/WdjJ40Z.jpg)
now the knuckles are all bolted in place. and steering arms. all good.
the diff is just hanging on there for a color contrast. just to see. thoughts..?
(https://i.imgur.com/wuHejNg.jpg)
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Very Nice!
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Great work. Hope my bushings fit OK. I can machine though if required.
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Great work. Hope bushings fit OK. I can machine though if required.
i think they’re great now. i dry fit them on the pins. zero wobble. the biggest issue was the height. which has been corrected now.
still need to pump them full of grease.. but there is plenty in there for now.
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Fixed the "my bushings"
Will be my first front build, done several rears.
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Fixed the "my bushings"
Will be my first front build, done several rears.
ohh. gotcha. i was about to say.. did i misread it? hahah.
just check before you grease it all up and drive the roll pins in. hahah. however, the tapped holes in the top make for easy removal. just check the diameter of the hi steer arm recesses and added dimension of the depth in arm plus the washer thickness. it’ll make sense when it’s all in front of you.
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I have to get another set of high steer stuff for the DMax SAS, and rebuild the axle, get springs,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hey, I have the axle and the dmax!
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the guy i’m getting all my square body swap stuff from just finished up a ford dana 60 coil over swap for a duramax.. just saying. and i mean the full kit. unless you already have a clear path ahead of you. haha
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He have a web site? I’m toying with the idea of a sas on the LB7
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precision fabrication plus
spendy, but the stuff i’ve gotten from him so far has been amazing. everything is 2nd to none. and he’s an amazing guy. when you call. he’s the one that answers. incredibly knowledgeable and friendly
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precision fabrication plus
spendy, but the stuff i’ve gotten from him so far has been amazing. everything is 2nd to none. and he’s an amazing guy. when you call. he’s the one that answers. incredibly knowledgeable and friendly
They have an Instagram account
https://precisionfabricationplus.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Frdp-xtreme-73-91-gm-dana-60-hd-high-steer-system&page=1&sortOption=descend_by_price
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yessir. they do. definitely worth browsing through.
hope i’m not overstepping any sort of bounds by ‘advertising’ him on here. please delete if i am. my apologies
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Is that $5200 kit complete with shocks and axle or just the brackets. Hard to tell from the IG page
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I think it’s without axle.
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Funny, the guy I got my axle from was touting that guy big time. Even wanted me to go up to the shop but I didn't have time.
He had nothing but good to say about the guy, but was up front he was pricey.
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It would appear precision is outsourcing from quite a few different manufacturers then adding their mark up. If you want to save some coin you can do as JR is doing and source components yourself. My 2 cents
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Yeah I’m just kicking tires right now. I do like the idea of a link set up
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Still sticking with leafs
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I like the grey cover. (I think that was the original question?)
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Yeah I’m just kicking tires right now. I do like the idea of a link set up
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Thinking ORD kinda lead the way on that swap, not saying to use them but might be a good source for info.
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Like it all.
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i know for sure he outsources a lot of stuff from other companies, but ecehrbjng i’ve bought from him
that he didn’t make has always been just what you can get it for from then as well. he just bundles it all together with a kit or an entire order so shipping is cut down. the parts he does make in-house like brackets and adapters are all top quality pieces and priced competitively with what i would make them for hahah.
but back to the actual thread topic.. hahah.
opinions/thoughts on the large disk brake dust shields. i may have been able to straighten out and get the old ones close to fitting. but if push came to shove, would you run them or not? the backs won’t have any.. but fronts might/could.
just taking a poll..
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Need them on the front, rear is OK but they don't get same road debris or abuse as the front does.
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noted.
i’ll get them cleaned up hopefully fitted before too long. maybe one of these late nights my wife works. (and before the jokes come a rollin in.. she’s a CPA hahaha)
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I haven’t had any dust shields on my duramax for over 50k. I cut them off to change out wheel speed sensors
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I haven’t had any dust shields on my duramax for over 50k. I cut them off to change out wheel speed sensors
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Can’t believe I’m saying this but I agree with Dave ^^^^
I ditch them every time.....
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needle bearings installed in spindles
(https://i.imgur.com/oAma57o.jpg)
anyone have any issues with where i’ve painted the spindles..?
(https://i.imgur.com/Ke85zxi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mJRk0iO.jpg)
there was just too much bare metal to leave it that way..
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I don’t paint between where spindle mounts and knuckle normally. However, knuckles are painted so not sure why it would matter. If paint is too thick it may scrap as you bolt two surfaces together would be only thing I could see happening.
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i thought that, so lightly lightly dusted the mating surface. most of the targeted area was the edge that faces the outside. and then the inside out from where the hub seal is.
that ok..?
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i can most likely get it off if needed. and the knuckles are mostly just overspray on them. alittle bit of primer to keep from rusting but not coated on black paint by any means.
i’d just hate to see shiny new parts get rusted in 2 weeks. lol.
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i can most likely get it off if needed. and the knuckles are mostly just overspray on them. alittle bit of primer to keep from rusting but not coated on black paint by any means.
i’d just hate to see shiny new parts get rusted in 2 weeks. lol.
I don’t see an issue, was surprised when you cleared the axle shafts. Lol, never saw that done either but it’s probably a decent idea. Most of my builds are not for show so not my expertise. Keep up the great work! :likebutton:
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I don't see an issue either, but seeing the rust in there made me think a little.
I have seen rebuilds where they rub anti-seize on the surface.
Must say it looks good though.
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Nice. Paint should be ok. I always siliconed the backside anyways, to help keep water out of those little bearings (probably doesn't help much because moisture usually comes from the axle seal, eventually)
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i can most likely get it off if needed. and the knuckles are mostly just overspray on them. alittle bit of primer to keep from rusting but not coated on black paint by any means.
i’d just hate to see shiny new parts get rusted in 2 weeks. lol.
I don’t see an issue, was surprised when you cleared the axle shafts. Lol, never saw that done either but it’s probably a decent idea. Most of my builds are not for show so not my expertise. Keep up the great work! :likebutton:
I painted the axle shafts in the SquareD build. Another rust point held (somewhat) in check
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What is this sq d you speak of?
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What is this sq d you speak of?
Tis but a distant memory, although a good one!
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not much work today, been building a deck last 2 days. cleaned off the rotors where i painted the edges/inside. came out nice i think.
(https://i.imgur.com/YAMAUHP.jpg)
and the dust slinger around the outer axle shafts
(https://i.imgur.com/H6ljBLC.jpg)
and i finished painting the rear of the inner axles..
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Don't you wish that paint would stay, well, painted?
Looking at SquareD the other day, much of that nice cleanly painted stuff has little "Hints" of rust. I mean, how does that stuff start?You cover the metal completely, but it rusts anyway!
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i do. but hopefully the wind blowing through this big girls hair as she glides down the road will help prevent such ‘rusting’ from occurring..
yes. shots fired over the bow.
hahah
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That's just mean!!!!!!! :wink:
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:popcorn:
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:popcorn:
I bet you stand around and watch two women fight too! ;-))
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Now now, we would stand around and watch two men fight and we are taught by the Dems that gender doesn’t matter so. Yes Jr is right to watch to ladies fight.
Good job Jr! Way to adapt to your surroundings. Make sure you get a good view with your camera phone
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(ignoring all the small talk jibber jabber..)
i think i’m going to not run the the disk shields. so i’ll see about assembly tonight ..
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progress!!
larger outer seal that presses again the face of the spindle
(https://i.imgur.com/4AqI87q.jpg)
spacer disk
(https://i.imgur.com/wnBIUPf.jpg)
inner seal that goes into the spindle where the needle bearings reside
(https://i.imgur.com/Q45c5xm.jpg)
spindle, caliper bracket and inner dust shield
(https://i.imgur.com/JKpow2Y.jpg)
both sides done
(https://i.imgur.com/xY58cc9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mJ1AyBL.jpg)
proof i painted the inside sections of the inner axles!! hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/Y4ucMus.jpg)
my question.. how much axle grease should be put back in to the hubs? i mean.. i have a general idea. but didn’t know if someone knew an exact amount. or a better method. hahah
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I stuff a bunch in there. You want to ensure it will leak in the future! ;-))
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hahaha. i mean.. i guess that’s one way to gauge it.
i smeared it on the stub shaft and more on the needle bearings inside the spindles.. as well as the splines on the end (they will get more) not wasn’t sure if inside the spindle around the stub shaft needed to be solid grease or..?
the hubs will get a fair amount and i’m sure it’ll spread around in there when it warms up. just don’t want to starve the needle bearings. that’s what happened in its last life.
more pics to follow tonight hopefully..
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Ken, what say yee on this matter?
We have a valid question here.
How much grease is the right amount??
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Just pack the bearings like any other set, and lube the hub, not submerge it in a tub. Too much grease makes bearings run hotter. You did the needles the way I would.... there's only so much you can get in there without filling the spindle. Good for 30k if not mud bogging
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this is what i did. new needle bearings came packed with grease but i added a smear on them after installed
(https://i.imgur.com/5N9vrmL.jpg)
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also, original bearings were in good shape, but not i’m considering just doing new completely since the only ‘old’ thing on there is the hub itself
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before and after..
(https://i.imgur.com/7FloUvF.jpg)
all done
(https://i.imgur.com/sOqdaql.jpg)
1 hub complete. touched up the heads on the inside and then the gaps created by the hub cut outs around the studs. (used a cardboard cutout for the rotor face overspray)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z7VrVcV.jpg)
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Them look mighty pretty
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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lots accomplished midday. i’ll only show one side. since both were done the same way
put alittle grease in the hub with a paint stirrer
(https://i.imgur.com/iY6u04p.jpg)
dropped the cleaned and repacked bearing in
(https://i.imgur.com/kb6z5Ci.jpg)
set the seal on
(https://i.imgur.com/0UMAQWq.jpg)
driven down
(only thing different from one side to the other is the seal depth. driver side i accidentally ran it about 1/8” lower than the face. but i put some gear oil on the lip, pushed it on and inspected where it landed on the seal surface of the spindle. was about 1/3 the distance in from the inner most portion of the seal surface. (it’s about 1/8” past flush) even if it was flush, it wouldn’t have reached all the way in. if anyone sees any issue when this whatsoever, tell me now. i can pull that hub off and redo it tomorrow..
(https://i.imgur.com/7UPeC6H.jpg)
bare spindle. look how beefy that 35 spline stub shaft is!
(https://i.imgur.com/RwG3BQu.jpg)
hub slipped on
(https://i.imgur.com/vzddi1X.jpg)
bearing in
(https://i.imgur.com/hvA895S.jpg)
upgraded spindle nut with pin instead of the fold down tabs
(https://i.imgur.com/Ul6vowi.jpg)
hole filled washer
(https://i.imgur.com/3771H4w.jpg)
can see the pin through the hole. takes alittle fiddling to get it right. moving the nut some and flipping the washer over gets it after the 2nd or 3rd time
(https://i.imgur.com/w6eNb8i.jpg)
outer nut on and torqued to 70 ft/lbs
(https://i.imgur.com/s9ixAtZ.jpg)
this is my only concern.. these are warn 35 spline hubs. as you can see, the snap ring groove is about 3/16”-1/4” away from the inner spline of the hub. when i push the half shaft in, the snap ring doesn’t make it to the hub spline.. it seems as if the inside surface of the inner axle shaft “U” is hitting the axle tub itself, which is stopping further onboard movement. am i right..? or did i miss something?? everything turns amazingly smooth.. no binding or even scrapping sound from the inner axle shafts on the tube (so maybe they aren’t touching) but i just can’t remember if on my ford i had to pull the stub shaft out to get the snap ring on and it held it out..
(https://i.imgur.com/cUxXMrB.jpg)
everything else went nicely though. it may be the bevel around the end of my hubs.. but the gap between the silver warn hub and black hub assembly just looks alittle wide. i think the oring seated nicely though.. so idk
(https://i.imgur.com/dfLderw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NIKO23g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zTa9ZjT.jpg)
getting all buttoned up..
(https://i.imgur.com/xAQf6QO.jpg)
one last look inside before getting sealed off
(https://i.imgur.com/SLq7UU2.jpg)
assembled
(https://i.imgur.com/sdka8BT.jpg)
really liking this hardware..
(https://i.imgur.com/fbMtwGb.jpg)
sorry for the poor lighting. i’m going to try and get it outside or at least turned some so it’ll catch better..
(https://i.imgur.com/CvAknaf.jpg)
i forgot how wide this sucker is!! for the longest time it was just a tube and diff. lol.
just short a tie rod and she will be good to set under a truck..
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Looking great. Always impressed with your work. Top shelf!
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That needs one of Shawn's diff covers
I sure do like the look of clean parts. Such a pity what the elements will eventually do to that.
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what are these covers you speak of..?
and as long as it’s elements from driving down the road and not from sitting motionless in a garage.. i’ll be ok with redoing it every once in awhile. (and no.. that wasn’t a slight at square D.. that was legitimate. there’s been an LS powered scout sitting in the building for 3+ years nearly untouched.. hopefully that’ll change soon)
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Did you have any extra washers left over? ...pretty sure there should be a thrust washer under the clip.
Shawn's bullet proof covers:
https://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/product-category/glo/differential/
... edit: maybe no washers on the d60, but did see a few threads on that issue with 35 splines, like this one:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Epirate4x4%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D1039910&share_tid=1039910&share_fid=4267&share_type=t
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i read the original post but couldn’t see any pics (all blocked)
i dont seem to be having the ‘constant lock’ scenario.. but more just the snap ring groove not doing anything.. so either i can make/have some washers made to ride between the snap ring and inner spline is hub. or regroove it? i think either way i’m pulling the hubs off to see if the stub shaft sticks out past the hub at all..
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may go do that right now.. hah.
shouldn’t take long. pull warns off. push axle out and see.
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sticking out a tad.. but will engage and disengage fine.
still, doesn’t change the fact that the stub shaft can walk in and out at will..
(https://i.imgur.com/aA52Zod.jpg)
what would you make the washer out of? and/or would you regroove or make a thrust washer?
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That last pic was at rest, or prying it outward? It has to have a little tension on the clip to keep the seal tight on the backside.
I used Tapatalk and all the pics showed up for me...his stuck out the same as yours.
I like the washer idea better because it's hard to cut a groove like that and keep the edges sharp, which might allow the clip to slip in a hardcore 4wd situation (at least in my mind). I know the d44s have washers, because I worked on quite a few back in the day.
..any washer would work, since it turns with the hub, as long as you get the right thickness.
Again, pry it out and wedge it tight (on the backside) to get correct measurement.
I would probably still grind the end off just to be safe... the heat won't affect the important section.
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i can definitely get a piece made by a local guy. i know what you mean when you say pry it out.. but my question is, exactly how hard? where the flex lip seal is a bit ‘squishy’ or bottomed all the way out? the snap ring on the 35 spline axles are spring steel, not the standard ‘snap ring’ you think of that use pliers to spred apart. think of a flattened out version of a key ring. the outer sbap ring that holds the hub in and is the same kind, and requires ‘spinnin/threading on’ unlike the 30 spline ones that simply clip in.
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just reread your post sorry
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That needs one of Shawn's diff covers
I sure do like the look of clean parts. Such a pity what the elements will eventually do to that.
https://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/
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Very nice work (cudo's on painting the shaft)
Doesn't the outer shaft have to walk a little?
Did you have to bore the spindle for the 35 spline axles? I have a ford and chevy to do, but I may change the ford outers to chevy.
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i don’t think you can swap ford and chevy. 5 vs 6 bolts for spindles. and ford spindles are shorter than chevy and dodge. bearings are the same, but distances are off.
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I know, would need the entire outer.
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I wouldn't make it completely bottomed out/tight. Too much pressure could wear the Warn hub guts out, and the seal.
No JR, they aren't supposed to float. The seal wouldn't keep out dust/water, and if it works it's way too far inward , the inner shaft yoke could contact the axle tube.
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that is currently what it’s doing. i’ll get a pic of it ‘floating’ and show that the snap wind isn’t doing anything at all..
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alright. was able to pull up the pics and that’s exactly what i have going on. i was able to follow along with what he was saying with no pics the other day, but now i have a much clearer picture of what the fix is. should be able to do that with little to no issue. just alittle time..
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i do have a question regarding regrooving vs washer. if my stub shaft doesn’t interfer with the locking hub.. would a washer be the better option?
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just got off the phone with warn. guy said that the outer snap ring didn’t do anything on a 60. only really used on the ford 50s where the half shaft could pull out the back of spindle.
not really sure i like the answer. i feel like somerbing has to hold the seal outwards onto the back of the spindle surface..
going to see about dial interference and sourcing a set of washers to hold the shaft seal to the spindle..0
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Is there any info on that in Vistas dana 60 bible?
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he does a 35 spline conversion but it’s for drive slugs. not lockouts. that article posted earlier on from pirate seems to be the go-to for this. i have to cut the end of the shaft off either way. definitely hitting the dial. when i push the axle shaft outboard it wants to engage. and when i pull it all the way out without the hub/rotor on and turn it back and forth, it doesn’t want to move in and out at all. which i find reassuring for when i regroove it.
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That sounds like a horrible answer. Sounds like they know they have an issue, and don't want to have to recall all of their 35 spline hubs.
Regrooving or using a washer doesn't have anything to do with the hub issue. Grinding off the end of the shaft is the fix for that, if it had that particular issue. I would still use the washers. Just seems like a safer bet...that can be undone if something changes.
Disclaimer: I have never converted to 35 splines, just using common sense...the axle has to be retained outward no matter what. If it starts engaging the hub when driving, the axle is too long, or the hub isn't made properly. ...and, it seems like you're not the first with that issue, according to other websites.
edit: I didn't see your new post about the hub interference.
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so.. the issue i found with washers is the the axle shaft has to be cut off on the outboard edge of the existing groove to clean the dial of the warn hub. i’ve used a caliper to confirm this. but it’s exactly the same dimensionally as the post on Pirate.
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Oh wow, didn't realize the groove was out that far.
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mating surface of the hub
.180”
(https://i.imgur.com/DKVhv3e.jpg)
inner dial surface
.120”
(https://i.imgur.com/gTbw0fI.jpg)
leaves me a difference of .060” from the hub to warn hub seal surface to dial surface (inset)
so going back to the ‘stick out’ pic of the axle shaft, the edge of the stub shaft bevel is in line with the outside of the hub.. so set back in .060” and its pretty close to the outer edge of the groove (not enough meat there for my liking..)
(https://i.imgur.com/wo6jv2x.jpg)
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for better or worse.. it’s done hahaha
(https://i.imgur.com/XvTLHjT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EumUov8.jpg)
now.. off to the store to find an appropriate snap ring as well as another box of rags (and an inner seal for the drivers hub.. now that it’s off)
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alright. well..
idk where to start.
called warn about the order of things going on the axle/inside the hub. the guy didn’t seem to know anything about the small snapring )mentioned in the pirate artical) so he looked up directions. well.. he said what i thought and was mentioned in pirate and that’s that it goes between the end of the spindle and the inner section of the hub body. there is also a washer that is mentioned in my instructions but isn’t in the box AND would make matters all the worse where it shows it going.
that being said, i tried to reassemble the hub body around tthe newly modified stub shaft. well.. the outer section of the aluminum hub body seems to be too thick (inside to outside) to allow me to ‘thread’ in the large locking ring (not like conventional ones where it’s just a single circle. this is like a flattened out key ring that has to be spun on)
well it’s too tight between hub body and groove in the hub itself. i can only get 1 pass of the lock ring in. moreover, it also says in the the instructions that there should be some ‘float’ of the hub body on the stub shaft.. i’m not getting that.
i can get the hub lock ring to go in the groove if i remove the inner snap ring where it rides on the spindle.. but that’s the only way. and it’s still snug. not floating.
i’m kinda stumped. do i take down the edge lip of the aluminum warn hub housing to allow the snap ring room to go on and hold it in place? do i disassemble again and take 1/16” off the end of the spindle and start over? or do i run it without the snap ring on the edge of the spindle between the inner hub and spindle end, still snug in the wheel hub? a combination of all..?
i think the most direct way would be to cut down on the lip of the body to allow more room for the snap ring to slide in while not changing the relationship of the inner and outer warn hub to spindle to outer axle stub..
with no inner snap ring between the inner hub splines and the spindle, i can get it all to lock in place with 1/16” half shaft movement and not hitting the hub dial.
i guess i’m just looking for input/new set of eyes.
i don’t know what i’m doing wrong. but i’m going to call warn again tomorrow to try and see what the deal is..
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Sell the warn stuff on eBay and upgrade to Yukon parts....
Sorry, I know I’m not helping but I really like the Yukon parts. Not a fan of warn anything but winches.
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idk what to do i’ve already cut and re grooved 1 stub shaft. who knows if i just shot my self in the foot and cut up a $100 stub shaft to make it work with the warn. i feel like i’m 1 step away from making it work.. but just can’t seem to figure it out. watched a video of a guy do it online and it took 5 min. here i am all afternoon into this thing and it just won’t go. and i mean by maybe 1/16” or so. no by a mile or anything..
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i’m not crazy, am i? no mention of inner snap ring and nothing about the body floating on the shaft. maybe it’ll be business as usual tomorrow/wed when i return..
https://goo.gl/images/gBf5Hi
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You sure that the housing isn't going in far enough? it's not hitting the new bearing nut is it?
I just watched a guy put some on an M37 and he had to "screw" the outer lock ring into place. I've never seen such a hokey design. They used to use a wire type ring that just snapped in easy like.
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Just watched the vid...same weird outer keychain style retainer. What inner snap-ring you talking about?
Did you take the little gear back off the stub shaft and put it back in the hub before trying to put the hub in?
Here's one pretty much the same...notice how his has too much axle play as well. I wonder if he ran into issues later on (probably).
https://youtu.be/xbb7yGSGyms
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watched that same vid 3 times. it’s apparently the way warn is doing it now. not like factory.
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there’s a small version of that large locking ring that comes with the kit. in the pirate write up, he says the WARN tech told him it goes between the hub body and spindle face. that’s what i did. but apparently it doesn’t. so.. i’ll put it in the outside of the hub between axle snap ring and inner splined section of the hub to take out 1/16” play in the stub shaft (in and out) the passenger side i’ll do without the snap ring spacer next to the spindle face..
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green grease is the pirate write up i was following..
(https://i.imgur.com/697wvAi.png)
red grease with circle is mine showing where the same snap ring he used is on mine. when it’s installed, it pushes the body of the warn hub out too far, making it impossible to get the spiral locking ring on.
(https://i.imgur.com/1nwbKZ9.jpg)
i think that’s what messed me up and subsequently the last 10 posts of this thread. i was following a write up that worked.. but evidentially our wheel hubs have slightly different locking ring groove dimensions. his worked with the inner ring, mine didn’t. and evidentially it’s not needed anyway (the one next to the spindle.. i’m going to cut off and re groove the passenger side just the same way i did drivers to help keep the stub shaft out..)
my apologies for spouting out info and terms/mixing up words at random. i was just a tad worried i has cut up not only a $100 part, but hours and hours of labor undoing said part.
i think i’m alright now though..
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Oh dang, didn't notice you also had a ring installed next to the spindle. I would've said something.
...so that ring didn't pull the axle out far enough either?
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there was no groove. on mine or on the guys on pirate. it was evidentially just supposed to be a spacer or something. idk.
either way, i think i have it worked out. i’ll move that one to the outside of the hub, as a spacer between the hub and snap ring (i’ll do the other side without the spacer at all.) i don’t see it being an issue on the drivers side though. it’ll be a washer then snap ring. instead of just snap ring.
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I see, they're using it as a thrust washer. I don't think moving it will fix your issue to be honest.
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i tried it without the ‘thrust washer’ in the drivers side (cut stub axle) and it worked. large lock ring went in fine. only possible issue after that is the aluminum warn hub doesn’t ‘float’ in and out alittle on the stub axle. im also coming to realize that the instructions from warn may be outdated and/or not accurate for every application..
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Curious, was the ring/spacer then when you took it apart or is this because of the new hubs?
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I'm sure it's in an earlier post, so I apologize in advance for being lazy, but if you're running 35 spline ford front outers, and they were Yukon's, you'd have two outer snap ring locations on the stub. if it's GM/Dodge, then just the one. but I can't speak for other brands. the hubs Shawn was speaking of are also in Wilsonphil's Ramcharger, which we went through some hiccups on with some fancy stage 8 spindle nuts... he might be of some hands on help here too, but spacers and snap rings will definitely create these issues. there should be an outboard thrust washer before the cap and hex head screws go on too...
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I just got some of those stage 8 nut sets, hope it wasn't a waste.
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so this spacer is only on there because of the pirate post.(and i believe it’s actually the outboard snap ring for the stub axle) it’s the write up i used to modify the stub axle. they are a factory Dana spicer part with only 1 snap ring location. it’s as if they used the same location for the groove as the factory 30 spline, but the factory 30 spline locking hub intervals are 1/4” thicker (inside to out) than the warn hubs. it’s as if warn knows there’s an issue with the setup but won’t just say it outright. make the hub dial threaded cup wider or something. it’s like they’re using the same dial as the 30 spline kit and just changing the innards. even a snap ring that came in the kit is identical to the 38 year old one i took off the truck..
they even told me that ‘yea, you may have to just shave off the end of the stub.. that outboard snap ring doesn’t do anything. you don’t even need it.’
i think i’ve got it straight though. according to the install video i found earlier, there is nothing between the warn hub and end of the spindle. so the other side i’ll do with just the hub guts slipped on. cut off the stub shaft just on the outside edge of the old snap ring groove, clean up and regroove right next to the warn hub innards.
sound about right..?
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what are those stage 8 nuts..?
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what are those stage 8 nuts..?
Not worth the money I think Phil had mentioned on another thread
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just googled them. i think you’ll be ok. so long as the last little bit doesn’t stuck out past the end of the spindle. that’s what i was
my issue isn’t with the spindle nut. but those are pretty awesome. i’m just running the upgraded dana 60 ones with the pin on the inner nut, holed keyed washer in the middle and a large flat outer but nut. instead of the old style with the fold over tabs on the keyed washer.
the inside of the aluminum hub body is baixally flat (maybe 1/16” difference between where the inner splined section hits the end of the spindle and where the outer splines contact the wheel hub splines. i’ll see if i can grab a pic. so as long as the spindle nuts stop short of the end of the spindle.. i don’t foresee an issue.
picture of all the issue areas hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/qPRyyXR.jpg)
blue is where the large convoluted twist on lock ring goes
red is what i’m calling the hub guts/innards/inner splined section
green is the inside of the hub dial that is/was contacting the stub shaft. (if seems to be made for the factory 30 spline axles.. :huh:)
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That green bore is super tiny. You think they would have upgraded the kit for 35 spline.
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That green bore is super tiny. You think they would have upgraded the kit for 35 spline.
my point exactly! lol. i think i measured it out to 1.3” or something like that. i’ll check again. and compare to my dads kit that is going on the kaiser (stock 30 spline)
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I know I'm putting the cart before the buggy, but I also saw a thread (on Pirate) about guys having to use a different (thicker) inner wheel bearing race to offset the wheel hub farther away from the spindle, to be able to get those warns to go in far enough. Maybe they were using that inner "thrust" washer as well, who knows at this point....I'm guessing you probably already ran across this but I'll post it anyway.
Post #9 has the part number:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1086170-ford-kp-d60-warn-35spl-hub-issues.html
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i saw that also. i would say is go that route, but have already done one side. plus this way i think i can get the large flex seal on the stub shaft to spindle to seat like i’d want (pressure but not smashed) as well as keep all the factory stuff. i think i’ll be ok if i can just get the other side right
you guys think this is an alright fix..?
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had i known this from the start, there’s a real chance i would have just gone either factory 30 or chromoly 30s. but i’m this far in.. gotta find a way out now. lol
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yes let me find the page and link, I had many problems but basically the WARN lockouts don't play well with 35spline outers and I was using Spicer outers also, Warn warrantied a set after I totally destroyed them but I went with the Yukon and have not had a problem.
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i saw that also. i would say is go that route, but have already done one side. plus this way i think i can get the large flex seal on the stub shaft to spindle to seat like i’d want (pressure but not smashed) as well as keep all the factory stuff. i think i’ll be ok if i can just get the other side right
you guys think this is an alright fix..?
Yes, keep going like you are, just saying if the big clip still won't go in, you might have to do the bearing race thing. ...or see if the Yukons will still fit with the mods you've done. haha
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Ok go to page 4 of my build, about half way down
http://real-man-truckworks-and-survival.com/index.php?topic=833.150
I ran in to the same problem you are running into I think, the Warn hub caps are not large enough to clear the larger 35spline stubs. The Yukon hubs are far superior to the Warn units I would NOT run the Warn units.
I really like the Stage 8 spindle nut system, there is a design issue with them, the stage 8 system is physically larger than the factory nut setup, so what happens is the large tension spring catches on the outer flats of the nuts and the spring stops rotating with the hub. Then the spring denigrates into dust/grease muck and in my case also takes the hub out buy wearing massive groves in the hubs.
I would ditch the Warn hubs, buy the Yukons and go on with life.
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and here go to reply #230
https://ramchargercentral.com/diesel-talk/hello-everyone-my-soon-to-be-ctd-ramcharger/200/
and see what Josh said in post #232 and me on #233
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my biggest issue/question is the fact that i’ve cut and regrooved a stub axle already. can anyone verify the depth of the part of a yukon hub that rides on the seth. shaft (from spindle to groove)
if it matches the warns, ill order a set ASAP..
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I just got some of those stage 8 nut sets, hope it wasn't a waste.
if you're running Yukon hardcore hubs they are just a hair too large O.D. and grab the inside chewing up spacers and selectors
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my biggest issue/question is the fact that i’ve cut and regrooved a stub axle already. can anyone verify the depth of the part of a yukon hub that rides on the seth. shaft (from spindle to groove)
if it matches the warns, ill order a set ASAP..
I'll get the drawing from tech and message you shortly. Got any questions about Yukon just let me know, kinda my thing :wink:
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From my tech dept:
"If he shaved or added a radius to the end of the stub axle our hubs will work fine.
The typical distance from the end of the wheel hub to the inside of the Locking hub selector are as follows: The Yukon Hubs/ selector has around .160” more clearance to help reduce any contact with the stub axle.
Warn 62672 +.040” Inboard of the wheel hub face ( when we mocked it up 8 years ago.)
Yukon70001 -.120” Offset outboard of the wheel hub face."
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i think those measurements make sense.. and it’s what i’ve found also.
is there any way you can show your tech guys what i’ve done so far and see what they think/confirm that i haven’t FUBAR’d anything and/or would need to replace the stub shaft (which i don’t want to do..) if the hub mechanism itself is the same thickness (where it rides/splines onto the stub shaft..) i won’t have any issues.. i don’t think.
thanks in advance
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i think those measurements make sense.. and it’s what i’ve found also.
is there any way you can show your tech guys what i’ve done so far and see what they think/confirm that i haven’t FUBAR’d anything and/or would need to replace the stub shaft (which i don’t want to do..) if the hub mechanism itself is the same thickness (where it rides/splines onto the stub shaft..) i won’t have any issues.. i don’t think.
thanks in advance
Already shown. what you've done is why we created the greater distance. you will NOT need to re-purchase stubs. are you rocking 30 or 35 spline?
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35 spline.
i was thinking that the inner section of the warn hubs (where it slips over the stub shaft and rests against the spindle were different thicknesses [inboard to outboard] than the yukon hubs)
i only ask bc i’ve regrooved further inboard on the stub shaft.. not simply cut off the end.
(here you can see the old and new snap ring groove and where they sit in relation to the warn inners)
(https://i.imgur.com/XvTLHjT.jpg)
sorry for double posting if you’ve already seen it.
but i’m glad to know that you/your guys are good with it and i don’t need new stubs. lol.
what’s the fix for the other side? still re groove but no need to cut the end off?
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So that is only needed on the warns, not the hardcore?
JR, I just did a set of Yukon hardcores on 35 spline kingpin 60, zero issues.
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the ends needed to be cut off to fit the warns. but the regroove was so that the snap ring holds the stub axle outboard and the inner and outer spindle seals do either jobs. i’ll most like do the same thing to the other side once the yukons show up :laugh:
i’m currently in a holding pattern waiting on UPS. possible they’ll be here tomorrow. most likely monday. can’t wait to rebutton this axle up.. the right way. :beercheers:
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So that is only needed on the warns, not the hardcore?
JR, I just did a set of Yukon hardcores on 35 spline kingpin 60, zero issues.
JR, I just did a set of Yukon hardcores on 35 spline kingpin 60, zero issues.
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had i known these issues before hand.. i either wouldn’t have gone 35 spline, and after having done so wouldn’t have bought warns from the beginning. high hopes for these yukons. tate reassured me i was in the clear. and while there was no reason to cut the other side.. there also wasn’t a reason not to. (i’m too OCD to just ‘leave well enough alone’..) but pray for me. maybe i can do it. lol.
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I can’t stress this enough (and not because I’m a Yukon vendor either) Tate is and has a wealth of info on axles at his disposal. He doesn’t bite too hard, use him....
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i can’t wait to get these in the mail.
i just wish i had known earlier that these issues were around. and yukon has already figured them out.
called him the other day. really nice guy. easy to talk to and made the time for me.
thanks again tate.
will get back on this once the hubs arrive.
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I can’t stress this enough (and not because I’m a Yukon vendor either) Tate is and has a wealth of info on axles at his disposal. He doesn’t bite too hard, use him....
I very seldom agree with the token hippy, but in this case, I do!
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If your running the 35 spline setup 100% go with the Yukons and be done with issues, it would of saved me a lot of headache also. I am using a lot of Yukon stuff now and its has given me ZERO issues! Tate always makes me cry so I try not to talk to him much!
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I don’t cry but I do wonder why my wallet is always lighter after talking with him...
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I don’t cry but I do wonder why my wallet is always lighter after talking with him...
I feel like this is a common occurrence when folks talk with yourself as well. I’ve got a list of things that are to be ordered. Just not to that point yet.
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I don’t cry but I do wonder why my wallet is always lighter after talking with him...
I feel like this is a common occurrence when folks talk with yourself as well. I’ve got a list of things that are to be ordered. Just not to that point yet.
Well their is a common thread there, we both discount heavily to all RM knuckleheads excluding Dave’s & Ken’s.....
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I don’t cry but I do wonder why my wallet is always lighter after talking with him...
I feel like this is a common occurrence when folks talk with yourself as well. I’ve got a list of things that are to be ordered. Just not to that point yet.
Well their is a common thread there, we both discount heavily to all RM knuckleheads excluding Dave’s & Ken’s.....
And I thank yous for the discounts! Really helps when your endlessly bleeding money to complete the project.
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I don’t cry but I do wonder why my wallet is always lighter after talking with him...
I feel like this is a common occurrence when folks talk with yourself as well. I’ve got a list of things that are to be ordered. Just not to that point yet.
Well their is a common thread there, we both discount heavily to all RM knuckleheads excluding Dave’s & Ken’s.....
What kinda things do you self anyway? I thought you were a crackerjack salesman?
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Close, popcorn
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Fastest invoice in the west,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Can't bleed em completely dry, then they can't come back to do it again! now, back to the truck build!
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parts came in. but i got sidetracked trying to finish up the building/upstairs office.
hoping to unwrap the axle and get back to work in the next couple days!
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(https://i.imgur.com/HsRvFm3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xSViLxj.jpg)
to start with the packaging is far superior to that of the warns, which just came in a box all bouncing and sliding around. so.. after taking delivery, yukon:1, warn:0
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Great choice you won’t be disappointed.
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let’s just start by saying.. never again will i use warns for 35 spline builds.
just because i have a mild case of OCD (wanting both sides to match) and that my stub axles were factory and not yukon with 2 sets of snap rings, i had to regroove the passenger side also to get the large spring and snap ring to do their job holding the stub axle out and making the flex seal work..
this by no means reflects on the quality or R&D of yukon. from what i can tell it’s a difference in factory dana spicer abs the hardcore hubs..
so.. without further adue.
regrooved stub axle
(https://i.imgur.com/FB6lXKv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jsNBVSY.jpg)
what i was left with. now here i could have stopped and reassembled it all. but i would have laid in bed and twitched all night knowing the 2 different sides had 2 different length stub shafts. hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/6qFRgMu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r721xOa.jpg)
now.. this is where normal installs start
(https://i.imgur.com/OPeySmH.jpg)
spring retainer
(https://i.imgur.com/haPkh6U.jpg)
spacer
(https://i.imgur.com/exMEjLo.jpg)
BAS..
(https://i.imgur.com/znZTlin.jpg)
inner and outer splined slugs
(https://i.imgur.com/oKQA2WE.jpg)
depressed in.. ready for snap ring
(https://i.imgur.com/zSkt4v7.jpg)
and in
(https://i.imgur.com/ugAjjDp.jpg)
cam and retaining flange (?)
(https://i.imgur.com/AyplctF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Yyp3HUu.jpg)
large retaining snap ring
(https://i.imgur.com/vpP1nIF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l8c7kXt.jpg)
grease on inside of hub dial/cam. make sure the dial is in lock potion.
also applied some white lithium grease to the o rings. (there is one between the hub dial and the outer hub body that seals but also has to rotate with the hub when going from free to lock)
(https://i.imgur.com/8mnHb9H.jpg)
aaaaand done
(https://i.imgur.com/5vRsQAA.jpg)
drivers side as well..
(https://i.imgur.com/VS5U80A.jpg)
passenger side install (without the cutting and grooving) took 27 min.. with taking pics. amazing quality and directions were spot on.
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:like Amazing difference. good update
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The engagement on those is so much better than the factory stuff.
Looks great.
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I like your OCD at work!
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Its a shame that Warn will not fix the 35spline outers, good for Yukon that they have not.
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Its a shame that Warn will not fix the 35spline outers, good for Yukon that they have not.
i compared the 30 spline hubs from my dads truck to the 35s.. same hub dial. identical. which is crazy.
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That fit and finish on the Yukon is simply top notch!
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Yeehaww!
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slow to no progress being made on the 3+3.. currently in oceanside CA working at pendleton putting in some live fire shoot houses for the beloved USMC..
hoping to be back at it end of march (while building another dana 60 and 203/205 doubler for a guy after he saw how the 60 and 205 i have turned out.. that should be fun!)
wanting to get the engine to fire after i get the harness modified.. that’ll be the real test.
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small, unnoticeable update.
got the harness sent off to FL to have it stripped down to stand alone configuration. also ordered EFI live with DSP5 switch so i can flash and tune the ECM sitting in the ground..
more (hopefully visible) updates to come. and maybe a video in the next couple weeks :beercheers:
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something very long happened today
(https://i.imgur.com/fc3TEQ0.jpg)
it’s abit rough and there are some unneeded bits on it (and botched state work add ons..) but that ladies and gentlemen is a true K30 3+3 4wd frame. should be a decent start to the build up of the frame (shorten, 52” spring conversion, engine mounts and cross member, trans crossmember install added PC’ing)
also picked up an elusive 29 spline NP205 with coupler for decent $$ if anyone on here needs one for a manual swap..
also have a 23 spline dodge tcase with coupler for an auto swap :grin: hahaha
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Yep, 1/4 inch walls and I bet its not cracked around the steering box.
Nice find.
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i quickly compared the thickness to the R2500 i currently have and they appear to be the same? the 2wd frame i have is in amazing shape, so once i can compare motor mounts and engine crossmembers, i’ll determine what the next step is.
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If I recall, the rails are the same with just the xmembers being the diff. I would replace with bolts and box the frame. Did that on a shortned 77.
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so the actual frames are the same? i’m curious now.. bc the 2wd frame is crazy clean. the square max guy in CA said that the frames and motor mounts were different somehow. i just don’t want to get crossed up.
i’m hoping to be able to test blast a small section of the frame to see how it cleans up. and if it’s nice i’ll just till with it. if not, back to using the 2wd frame
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EFI live/DSP 5 switch came in yesterday. harness should be here next week. ordered a new LBZ starter and LMM pedal (per the harness builders spec.. both connections and the pedals themselves are both cheaper and more readily available since LBZ were 2 year manufacture and the LMM style pedal is still in use today with the L5P.. so i went that route. decided to go new since it was $70 instead of the $40 i found used a couple places. means i should be able to rev the motor alittle once it fires! hah.
also, unrelated to the build of this truck, the dana 60 i built for the duramax got some attention from the fella i bought the 205 from, so i’m ‘selling’ him a dually dana 60 and then building it for him. not quite as ‘big’ as mine, but it should look the same. there’s another one down the road that will be full built to the Nth degree for him though.
first off was to move the SRW off the work bench.. and of course it had to get a stand.
(https://i.imgur.com/blfcmM5.jpg)
new one goes on the bench.
(https://i.imgur.com/XeQXJIh.jpg)
womp womp
those DRW hubs are heavy! hah
(https://i.imgur.com/4u0ph3g.jpg)
stripped it down in maybe 2 hours total. hardest bolts to get off were the diff cover!!
(https://i.imgur.com/2pI0AFi.jpg)
everything just kinda fell apart.. almost too easily. glad i didn’t do this one first or i would have thought they were all like this.
(https://i.imgur.com/qqhObDU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/10mcHnT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Lhf3r8.jpg)
all the pieces should be black by the weekend. then it will just be a matter of throwing it all back together with new parts.. and a dolly stand of course
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Its DANA heaven!
Watch the HF dolly. Mine are outdoors covered set up the same way but now are shaped like a U. Then the wheel broke on another and HF does not have replacements.
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it’s tractor supply.. but noted. i’m thinking of pulling the wheels off and using 2x4s as a cross member to hold 2 wheels. should be fine since i can make them sit right under uprights to bear the full weight and not let any on the flat plywood.
i’m thinking i’ll make them for every ‘customer’ so that they can be easily loaded/unloaded and moved around in the shop/under the vehicle with ease.
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Mine are on a 2x6 centered, figured it would be OK,,,,,,,,,
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ohh man.. better make sure it doesn’t sit like that for long then. hopefully i can get it under the truck sooner that later. lol.
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made a quick stop at the chevy dealership today..
(https://i.imgur.com/EM1D00v.jpg)
new GM LBZ starter and LMM pedal.
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Better get some tractor supply Grey on those parts
Oh wait wrong thread
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Better get some tractor supply Grey on those parts
Oh wait wrong thread
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:likebutton:
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ignore the nasty that is this engine at the moment. i wanted to make sure it ran before dumping tons of time into the cleanup.
(https://i.imgur.com/GXGgKpA.jpg)
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Better get some tractor supply Grey on those parts
Oh wait wrong thread
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Hey, I didn't paint everything this time! ;-)
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Your not done either bud
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just gonna sprinkle in some dana 60 build pics on here. just cause..
(https://i.imgur.com/q13joBn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r2mWQl9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ox1ZAjF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rgCAeo8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ctyjirf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k36YGzX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CGRRPU8.jpg)
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That looks really sharp. I either need a dodge or a SAS swap on the LB7....
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That looks really sharp. I either need a dodge or a SAS swap on the LB7....
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SAS swap on the lb7, things are much more readily available.
swbhobie, nice job on the build. Look forward to see the LBZ make some noise!
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hoping it’ll be this week! harness should be in wednesday.
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thoughts on an anti wrap bar/traction bars for the square body? i just don’t like how low down the traction bars hang. is there any way to put them above the axle? does that effect performance/effectiveness of them?
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Cal tracs. Above the axle bars.
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Cal tracs. Above the axle bars.
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everything i saw from them (cursory search..) had them below the axle.
also, i wonder if i’ll even need them..?
just thinking of more crap to buy :grin: hah
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You’re right. My bad
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nearly done with the pieces..
(https://i.imgur.com/OIgVz1E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qmXJEdx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v0iNuNb.jpg)
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well ladies and gents.. harness is en route. hope to have it in my hands tomorrow afternoon, which will then promptly be put on and test fired (fingers crossed she runs and purrs just a kitten)
pics of harness and hopefully a vid to follow upon the morrow
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(https://i.imgur.com/O1ZThmX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kUnWv4z.jpg)
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:likebutton:
Looking good
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Sure doesn't look like much for a dmax harness.
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Sure doesn't look like much for a dmax harness.
I think that’s what the harness guy he sent it to specializes in, getting rid of all the non sense!
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Man that looks pretty!
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Axle and harness...2 thumbs up
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And a clean work friendly shop; 3
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thank ya.
hoping to get parts in for 60 soon. and may be firing the LBZ today.
need to start wrapping up some stuff so i can get both paid and stuff out of the way. hahah
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That harness is just UN-BUSY.
Should make for a very clean and interesting install...Interested!
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modified dolly to better support the weight.
(https://i.imgur.com/QkhJwZZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iTymUnM.jpg)
and strapped down down..
(https://i.imgur.com/SeZxjuK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4JPdWwI.jpg)
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Your woodworking skills are only second to your Kaiser restoration skills!
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can’t post a vid with sound from IMGUR..
but i guess the cats out of the bag!!
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Post a link via youtube
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let’s see if this works
https://youtu.be/_xdubtC3vqI (https://youtu.be/_xdubtC3vqI)
https://youtu.be/glkkX0b_bzo (https://youtu.be/glkkX0b_bzo)
this is the first take. seriously. that’s all it took to get it running. cranks faster than my 6.0 PSD. hahah
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That’s a good sounding motor.
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Very nice sounding engine!
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That started easy to, sounds great.
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thanks tate :cool:
(https://i.imgur.com/ijoasAV.jpg)
now.. i won’t continue to muddy this thread with dana 60 build pics.. but there will be one completed i assure you of that. hahah
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Still wanna sell those dually hubs?.....
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Oooh, candy!
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Still wanna sell those dually hubs?.....
guy actually wants a dually 60 built too. for a burb i think. he has a SRW 60 for me to build for a cummins swap square body burb later this year too.
i’ll keep you posted though..
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(https://i.imgur.com/Q9gaH9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zTvPFWt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pDtlomu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1aSUz0R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vfBFF9A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EzGYyNi.jpg)
before:
(https://i.imgur.com/XeQXJIh.jpg)
after:
(https://i.imgur.com/BSZYjxv.jpg)
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Dang that is purdy!!!!!!!!
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Sweet!
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Wow.
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(https://i.imgur.com/Q9gaH9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zTvPFWt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pDtlomu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1aSUz0R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vfBFF9A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EzGYyNi.jpg)
before:
(https://i.imgur.com/XeQXJIh.jpg)
after:
(https://i.imgur.com/BSZYjxv.jpg)
This is what I like about Swohobie... always nice clean lines and attention to detail.
Yukon is horizontal so you can read it. :likebutton:
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Those hubs look real nice against that black background. TOP NOTCH work as always sir. :cool:
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NOW.. it’s done
(https://i.imgur.com/bKwQT0d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tl1suOP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hagns0S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uWeJR5x.jpg)
thanks for all the compliments and kind words. id like to think it/they look good. but always nice to have some validation.
pics of it in his truck when he comes and gets it out of my way! hahah
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Did you stain the axle stand? Cause if so that’s a new level of woah.... sure looks good though.
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Nice rack,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Wish I never sold my dually hubs
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Did you stain the axle stand? Cause if so that’s a new level of woah.... sure looks good though.
yessir. i did. it was more of a ‘it was sitting right there on the shelf and took next to no time.’ plus.. it looks much better than a raw 2x10 sitting there with hard corners.
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NOW.. it’s done
(https://i.imgur.com/bKwQT0d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tl1suOP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hagns0S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uWeJR5x.jpg)
thanks for all the compliments and kind words. id like to think it/they look good. but always nice to have some validation.
pics of it in his truck when he comes and gets it out of my way! hahah
Real men put the whole truck on a wooden dolly, not just the axles,
Just kidding I am going to do the same thing when I freshen up my axles
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But Phil. You didn't stain yours or bevel the edges... Tisk Tisk... LOL :likebutton:
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Yea I know I’m a slacker.
Told you guys I’m not a wood worker
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did alittle tearing down on the LBZ today
it’s alittle grimy but it’ll clean up nicely i think. just never had any cleaner on it or sprayed off ever..
(https://i.imgur.com/T4zOtbH.jpg)
and this just got to me. NIB off facebook for half price. magnaflow 3” downpipe
(https://i.imgur.com/kdrxOrO.jpg)
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Nice grab. Hopefully mine goes on soon with new manifolds too.
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are you doing anything special or just the LML manifold on driver side?
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Actually got the Carb legal PPE manifolds. Now going to NV may not need em with the EGR pipe.
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i gotcha. i’m probably just doing the LML DS manifold and LB7 pass side uppipe to delete EGR. and have a single round intake with no grid heater.
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Love to do a full delete with no heater.
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got alittle more stripped off today.
pulled the engine harness off to have it sent down to FL for a clean up and delete unneeded stuff.
(https://i.imgur.com/rZDttZp.jpg)
this is why you EGR delete..
(https://i.imgur.com/OOeUuRk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m7HjWfT.jpg)
well now i have to pull Y bridge off and clean that out now. hahah.
i’ve been looking at HSP y bridge. just don’t know that i can justify it.. it may be just a clean up and install of the factory one.
but i think it’s cleaned up well. now that the EGR cooler, valve and intake are off i can get to the passenger side valve cover on top and down inside the valley some.
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Delete or block for sure. Same for the PCV. Soot and oil are not the intakes friend!
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ohh.. it’s gonna get a full delete. LB7 uppipe. straight 3” intake. what would you recommend for PCV delete? just the plugs and call it a day?
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You need PCV, just cut or run hoses. Some companies make bolt on hose fittings.
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that makes sense. i jumped the gun on my response. hahah.
one side of mine is pretty gunky on the outside. so it’ll be good to take off and clean.
pretty pumped about the harness rebuild. should look just like the engine harness when done.
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Fuel hit $4 here, been filling in Reno for $3.35
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so.. hit a snag on the allison
got it separated from the motor, 5 speed 4wd unit stood up and the 2wd 6 speed unit next to it. pulled all the bolts out evenly as the C5 springs push the housing up. thought it’d be a simple ‘move this one to here’ deal
well.. i was wrong. all 4 gears in the planetary move independent and the sun gear in the center moves at a different rate than the outer gear. any tricks i’m missing while swapping the housings over/reinstalling the output housing with planetary in it?
(https://i.imgur.com/nqviXhH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XLYOvBR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mhLrjoj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nViM7ju.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fuHcnDr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TWJ05eZ.jpg)
don’t mind the funk, it will all get cleaned up once reassembled (this is the first time i’ve seen the bottom of the trans as well) just want it back together ASAP..
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The only advise i can offer would be to call mike L @ inglewood transmission:
https://inglewoodtransmission.com/jm1/
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Second this ^ dude is arrogant as it gets but of the few who are..... he has earned it!
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ok.. so i think i solved it this morning after stepping away and coming back with new eyes.
started by just trying again. no go. once i realized i was an incompetent mouth breather, i started checking things.
flipped the 4wd 5 speed housing upside down to get a look at the planetary.
took the 5 speed sun gear out and dropped it in no problem. put sun gear back on 5 speed
took 6 speed sun gear and out and tried in the same planetary.. no dice. ok.. now we’re getting somewhere!!
sat down for a min and though. counted the teeth on the sun gears for both 5 and 6 speed.
48 and 53, respectively.
did the same with the larger outer gear.
103 and 111.
OK. now.. we have a solution. just swap the output shafts and housings!
which is exactly what i did. took about 30 min once i realized what was actually going on. just waiting for gaskets on both to do the final install (need to check the inside of the 5 speed in the morning, i’m questioning orientation of something)
2wd shaft on the right, 4wd on the left
(https://i.imgur.com/khPzTkA.jpg)
swapped
(https://i.imgur.com/kx7fiBt.jpg)
housings on.. and they fit!!
(https://i.imgur.com/jqQXpGg.jpg)
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:likebutton:
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called mike this afternoon to confirm what i had done.
as soon as i told him what i was doing (4wd 5 speed onto a 2wd 6 speed)no couldn’t even finish my sentence before he said ‘you have to leave the planetaries in. they’re different pitches’ hahah. dude knows his stuff. that’s for sure.
(i may have name dropped when he answered after the warning.)
but he was great. and definitely knew exactly what i was talking about. so i’m good i think. :beercheers:
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And who’s name did ya drop? I know he doesn’t remember me unless he see the photo of me passed out on his dirty A floor in the shop for hours
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i said ‘hey my name is seth, i was pointed your direction from tate from randy’s ring and pinion.. had some questions about an allison 1000 if you had a mon’ hahah
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Now I know who’s name to drop lol. Ol tate sent me to ......
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:likebutton:
i feel like it’s a safe name to use. some ppl i know are like ‘ohh just tell them i sent you..’ and sometimes i feel like i’m going to be shot afterwards. so i have to use caution when doing that sort of thing.
hahaha
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I feel like I'm a pretty safe bet, unless your up in MN at a certain "twin city" automotive group; me and that guy just did not vibe, lol
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got it all back together and home. only question i had was the spacer gear between P2 as P3 on the main shaft oil hole, but i think i got it figured out. so all good there.
can’t wait to clean it up and get it painted/back on the motor with new pan gasket and filters.
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a little preview..
(https://i.imgur.com/B4NsZjn.jpg)
plug for the output end while it gets cleaned and painted
(https://i.imgur.com/8fhEgH5.jpg)
nasty bottom..
(https://i.imgur.com/0Ke8rUp.jpg)
better. and that’s just from the bottom of the pan itself and the lip where the bolts go through to the case. i couldn’t even see the bolt heads..
(https://i.imgur.com/TvgBwkn.jpg)
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205 is pretty, we’re working on rear case mounts for that at moment
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205 is pretty, we’re working on rear case mounts for that at moment
Just a universal 205 rear mount? I’ll take one if that’s the case :)
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205 is pretty, we’re working on rear case mounts for that at moment
what sort of mount/where will it bolt to?
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Back side of front passenger output (on top of where fancy bling aluminum cover is now)
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Back side of front passenger output (on top of where fancy bling aluminum cover is now)
When will they be ready? I need to pull my case back off anyways.
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That is going to be sweet. 205 looks great!
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Back side of front passenger output (on top of where fancy bling aluminum cover is now)
When will they be ready? I need to pull my case back off anyways.
Should have them in stock within 30 days
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so.. it’s made it to the operating table.
this side is nearly clean
(https://i.imgur.com/eK4CVmO.jpg)
this side.. is not. the bottom is dingy. top half is pretty close
(https://i.imgur.com/sLQ1Dv9.jpg)
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aaaand here we go
(https://i.imgur.com/nCSlHne.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/34pQAMl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NdRMUtM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Eol4RfQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ivqG6YH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hwa5ABK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Udv4REX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pflJIq3.jpg)
this pic shows the best representation of the color. same as tcase. massey furgeson gray
(https://i.imgur.com/cbJmBrO.jpg)
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I don’t remember where it was I read it. But.... there is a good bit of heat transfer lost by painting al of these things
I asked MikeL when he had my trans about painting and he said simple “no”
Just info
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:sad:
i thought about that too. also think i read something about the heat transfer online as well. seems like it’s half and half (maybe 1/3-2/3) of ppl and places that paint vs not paint. i figure it’s not a 100% hauler, nor a crazy powerful race truck.. will have a deeper trans pan for added fluid and a decent size cooler too. there are big places that paint trans’ like ATS, SDP and CDP that all paint them.
if it was in better shape overall i would have left it bare i think. but.. i just couldn’t leave it :/
does everyone really think it should be bare..?
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Light colors dissipate/reflect heat, dark absorb. Probably some insulation issue to any coating.
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Actually it’s called “emissive properties”. Flat black emits more energy and the best thing is a flat black coating ( why radiators are black)
In the end it’s a rounding error for a daily driver.
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And here is some light reading
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emissivity
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Actually it’s called “emissive properties”. Flat black emits more energy and the best thing is a flat black coating ( why radiators are black)
In the end it’s a rounding error for a daily driver.
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Exactly. You'll be fine.
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all good to hear.
plus.. it’ll match the tcase. which is always important. hahah.
i just needed to get it to where it wasn’t nasty grimy and oxidized
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Didnt Donny paint the square brick trans white? to spot the dodge trans leaking?
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Didnt Donny paint the square brick trans white? to spot the dodge trans leaking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yes. and probably a good call considering it was a dodge tranny :laugh:
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Didnt Donny paint the square brick trans white? to spot the dodge trans leaking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yes. and probably a good call considering it was a dodge tranny :laugh:
oof, shots fired!
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a couple cool things going on..
deep kodiak allison pan, deep filter, filter lock and spin on allison filter
(https://i.imgur.com/JgIXROR.jpg)
made a bracket to hold it on the engine stand
(https://i.imgur.com/XLz798G.jpg)
satin clean on pan
(https://i.imgur.com/wjInSTT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hNrLr8S.jpg)
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did alittle bit today
off with the old
(https://i.imgur.com/qNp8hl3.jpg)
really pleased with how this looks!
(https://i.imgur.com/hjoqBg8.jpg)
filter removed
(https://i.imgur.com/Yhnbayo.jpg)
new deep filter on
(https://i.imgur.com/quU8xIe.jpg)
filter lock on
(https://i.imgur.com/cZpluwt.jpg)
new deep pan on. i put an AC delco trans pan magnet where the red circle is.. not realizing the square in the bottom of the allison pan was a magnet. any issues with that..?
(https://i.imgur.com/tv7irMb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JXRSC2n.jpg)
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Good magnet on the outside will work too.
Shift kit? Perfect time.
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it’s on the inside. just stuck on. not glued. and no shift kit. keeping it stock.. for now. don’t want to do too much at once
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Just checking, Allison is marginal behind the LBZ stock.
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well.. crap. now what should i do? hahaha
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Simple install, just open the pan. No major work at all.
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kit suggestions?
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Trango Jr. plus your setup is clean. Doing it under a dippy trans is no fun.
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i’ll look in to that. i should be about to reuse the gasket (new) since it’s only been put on once.
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it’s on the inside. just stuck on. not glued. and no shift kit. keeping it stock.. for now. don’t want to do too much at once
You just confirmed, we are not related ;-)
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i just meant.. too many changes to performance! hahah.
possibly taking the LBZ to get it studded and head job/hot tanked next week. then i can bolt it ALL back together and have it waiting on the frame (that’ll be the next big hurdle.. shorten to CCSB, 52” spring bracket swap, turn over 5th wheel plate, blast and powder)
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(https://i.imgur.com/gqV0EOW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GC1xYg8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X2vqc50.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3c993Bu.jpg)
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just a mock up.. but it’s getting there!!
(https://i.imgur.com/STOhGqh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R9J7iDN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K6B9Y1L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nScYgGe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dDkQsZu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mI38I5W.jpg)
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Why not fit a doubler it there now?
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Why not fit a doubler it there now?
:undecided:
hahha
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Heck that looks good.
Just think, open exhaust and intake, no smog tune or EGR. You should be putting down in the 500hp area with even a mild tune.
Since you are where you are, cleaning the adjustable vanes in the turbo out might be a good idea.
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motor is at the shop getting studded and valve job and heads/runners and y pipe hot tanked. so it’ll get LB7 pass side uppipe. EGR delete. LML driver side manifold. 3” downpipe. should be like a whole new motor.
can’t wait to get it all together. will be cool to see all 3 pieces attached! hahah
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ill look into the turbo cleaning too. no way it can hurt at this point. they were oily, but only from PCV from what i can tell. going to get some new PCV plugs to reroute them away from the intake.
any suggestions on a new intake? i’m not sure if the IC inlet will be down low or up top with my setup.. so i may end up having to cut it some. any thoughts/input would be much appreciated. i don’t want to just get a name brand piece for the sake of having a name stamped on it.. if they makes sense.
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Time to start on the frame! Your gonna need it in short order!
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Check out the youtube videos on the turbo cleaning. Very common issue with the EGR Duramax engines. Thought mine was sticking, turns out it was the tune.
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shop started pulling the motor apart. pass side is alright i think. intake runners are nasty. y bridge is nasty. all 4 injectors on that side are out. driver side has back 2 injectors stuck in head. one of the guys said that it may need injectors by looking at the tips. will have them tested and see for sure. but fingers crossed there is nothing wrong with them. i can’t imagine that there is with how well it cranked and didn’t smoke. etc.
thoughts?
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good thing i decided to do this. will give me an opportunity to clean all intake related hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/37SikYs.jpg)
motor still has cross hatching!! carbon rings will get cleaned up as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/VHHi7yS.jpg)
all oil related surfaces look great. no sludge build up or caking. all very clean.
(https://i.imgur.com/2Gx9miB.jpg)
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Looks pretty clean, did you ever come up with a mileage on the motor? Still in sure right?
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i have 2 different numbers.
160k on the odometer (that i didn’t see) but was told from the seller.
233k in the fall of 2015 from carfax.
so who really knows..
it ran great. need to load EFI autocal on the computer so i can read ECM data from when it was running.
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Looks great, cept that intake.
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are you going to drop the pan look at the mains and rod bearings?
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really want to get another upper oil pan since this one is corroded so terrible. and possibly a deeper lower pan. or just a new one that isn’t dented (from removal i’m sure)
so when that happens.. may pull a cap and see.
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so this is what was found under intake runners
(https://i.imgur.com/Lgs5XwZ.jpg)
safe to say.. she’s a bit clogged
(https://i.imgur.com/2wHUbYf.jpg)
Y bridge :cry:
(https://i.imgur.com/ldg41bc.jpg)
just got back from dropping them off at the machine shop for valve job and a good cleaning. should have it all back by next week..?
we shall see
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That is nasty!
So, for all we D-Max owners, what is the culprit? Oil coking I assume originating from the turbo? The PCV? somewhere else?
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EGR hot gas mixed with PCV oil=Horrible for a diesel.
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Blocker plate or remova.
Sent from my container,,,,,,,,,,,,
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my best guess is PCV mixed with EGR and idling for long periods of time. don’t know about others.. but LBZ PCV enters literally 2” in front of turbo opening (post air filter). EGR is about 1’ before y bridge. so not only does EGR get mixed in with oily air, that same PCV air goes through all turbo piping and IC. ultimately it settles out (condenses if you will) on the turbo boots where they ridge, causing them to deteriorate rapidly.
so.. if you have a trusty 6.6.. my recommendation is PCV reroute immediately (you can see why) and if you’re building a strictly off-road vehicle like me :laugh: remove the other part too.
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it also contributes to the veins in VGT becoming stuck if not driven/actuated all the way through. (from my understanding..)
easiest, quickest way to remedy some of this is with PCV reroute to just dump under the truck. every 18 wheeler you see does the same thing. as well as those silly 6 cylinder inline diesels that seem to last so long.
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I had mine re routed to under my truck, the issue I created was white smoke at startup and moderate acceleration, I spent months trying to figure out why I was getting the white smoke all of a sudden
Undid my pvc reroute and the issue instantly stopped
I undid the stupid plug T. Took 3/4 hose down the block driver side and dumped into an eBay catch can. From that point on it started to blow white smoke.
Not sure why, not sure what I did wrong, it’s all connected back up and I have just replaced elbows a few months back
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white smoke like.. out of the exhaust or from under the truck?
that’s weird. buddy of mine suggested i do it as well but made no mention of smoke issues from when he did it on his LBZ.
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Out of the exhaust, I had never found anyone with a duplicate experience. I am not saying to don’t follow the pCV reroute. I was hoping someone more educated than me might suggest why or what I did wrong
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Only you Dave?
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how large was your pipe?
(on the motor guys.. come on)
i’ve heard of them being too small or restrictive/kinked which causes a buildup of pressure inside the crankcase. so even though it’s ‘open’ it’s not allowing all of it to escape
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I am not sure on the size it might have been 1/2 or 3/4. What size do these kits come with? The length and going into the catch can could have also been an issue
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moved some parts around today. clearing out some space in the home shop for another couple 205 builds, along with a dana 80 (regular.. hahah) for the same guy with the dually 60 (still in there.. waiting on a trip back from alaska at the moment)
anywho.. here’s the process.
finally married these 2
(https://i.imgur.com/XawScuV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3PdNVfH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wDHQviY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ng3eGbe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Pnftylw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uiUGVsw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0MYD9t9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XXAGU5v.jpg)
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that looks absolutely slick
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It could easily pass for new!
This is, of course, unsettling to me
I'll explain
I like the D-Max and am used to the power the thing produces day in and day out.
I got to drive the Burb with that skinny 6.0 in it again today. We found the leak and parts on order, but drive it I did never the less.
With the 4.88 gears and the cam and the this and the that's, it's downright slow compared to my D-Max. I am wondering that if I turbo charge it, if it will even approach diesel torque then?
I sadly admit it, but I may be looking for one of these for the 02 Burg as well. Just not a gas-happy guy I guess.
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That tranny needs its own set of wheels!!
Don, just get a darn LBZ for the Sub, stop throwing $$$ at it.
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thanks guys. been lots of work and parts hunting. now i have to find a set of injectors for the 6.6 as only 3 of them passed the test. i may have an LBZ motor for cheap that had a knock. will have all accessories and 110k upper and lower oil pan. not building either, just using parts i need from one to finish the other. we shall see. waiting to hear back as we speak.
don, go ahead and get an LBZ/LMM and be done. don’t be scared of a 2wd. they’re very easily converted. and harnesses can be made for electric tcase. ken in FL with stand alone solutions is your guy.. just sayin.
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thanks guys. been lots of work and parts hunting. now i have to find a set of injectors for the 6.6 as only 3 of them passed the test. i may have an LBZ motor for cheap that had a knock. will have all accessories and 110k upper and lower oil pan. not building either, just using parts i need from one to finish the other. we shall see. waiting to hear back as we speak.
don, go ahead and get an LBZ/LMM and be done. don’t be scared of a 2wd. they’re very easily converted. and harnesses can be made for electric tcase. ken in FL with stand alone solutions is your guy.. just sayin.
I think I just may. Judging from driving it a little, it just feels puny beside the D-Max. It would have to double or triple in torque to start to curl my lips into a smile.
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Are the detent "adjusters" for the shift rails something new I have not seen those before?
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yessir. they adjust pressure on the spring and ball to allow for a more custom setup for shift resistance.
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so.. this followed me home today
(https://i.imgur.com/DHw1BYS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4IQzWMB.jpg)
anybody want it minus injectors..? (don.. don??) :grin:
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Actually, ah, well, ya, I could be very interested...
Always a sucker for a WTBP (Way too big project)
PM sent...
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Are the detent "adjusters" for the shift rails something new I have not seen those before?
Phil, I installed them on the SquareD NP205 rebuild... Pics there too.
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yea I most likey missed that, I bet someone started talking about 1911 or Sigs or Glocks or how it wasn't painted the right color.
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more than likely. i believe that i showed them in my build too. they install easily enough. just drop the ball in, spring in next followed by the adjustable bolt/detent.
it’s essentially an allen head bolt with a jamb nut on it. so it can be screwed further in or out to set pressure on detent ball in the notches on the shift rail. then the nut secures it in place. at least it gives you some adjustability and not just ‘whatever the spring pressure with the bolt all the way down’ is.
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opinions on turbo wheels?
going to be pulling mine down to clean and inspect/replace bushings and o-rings. thought about swapping out wheels i’d it’s worth it
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anyone ever seen the guts of a VGT..?
here ya go..
(https://i.imgur.com/7E9ZWPt.jpg)
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opinions on turbo wheels?
going to be pulling mine down to clean and inspect/replace bushings and o-rings. thought about swapping out wheels i’d it’s worth it
I think you have to have one on each side...intake and exhaust??
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opinions on turbo wheels?
going to be pulling mine down to clean and inspect/replace bushings and o-rings. thought about swapping out wheels i’d it’s worth it
I think you have to have one on each side...intake and exhaust??
:knucklehead:
you’s knew what i means..
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I have a wicked wheel for mine, just sitting still. Supposedly able to put in on the truck (watch youtube)
Duramax Tuner has a couple of drop in for under $2K, sure there are more.
If you just rebuild I understand there is a SS slotted wheel for the VVT that works better.
That looks pretty clean from what I have seen (pics)
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ill take that wicked wheel off your hands.. hah
i watched the how-to in the truck, looks like a pain.
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IN THE TRUCK! No thanks. I’ve had to turn things there. No beuno to dismantle.
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ill take that wicked wheel off your hands.. hah
i watched the how-to in the truck, looks like a pain.
PM sent,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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much more better :grin:
(https://i.imgur.com/4sTUwGn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WXtpjA5.jpg)
JR, going to be in touch.
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:likebutton:
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PM sent
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since the motors out and it’s easier than ever now.. thoughts on water pumps?
mileage on the ones any of you have used..?
get just the pump or pump and housing together..?
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Pump for sure. I have 175 on my stocker, no issues.
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just wondering on brands. GM is wanting crazy $$ for it and the housing. (they won’t separate)
rock auto has AC delco for 130. napa is about $60?
they’re just drastically different prices. just curious
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If you are building for durability and some power, get one that has been welded
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I'd stick with oem, with housing. Typically last past 100k (mine only went 30k from the factory) :(
I read about the welded ones, or ones with just a steel impeller being better, but out of the 20 or so that I've replaced, it wasn't the plastic impeller that failed, but the seals. Every one of them came in for leaking.
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Tex will likely chime in... but i'll beat him to it. ACDelco has multiple different lines of parts, so what are you actually getting for that $130? Could account for the difference between dealer and rock.
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the $130 is AC delco 252-898
seems identical to the AC delco 252-383. and that ones like $70
so to be completely honest.. i don’t know. GM wants $350 for the pump and housing, plus another $20 for o ring.
seemed a bit much. and that’s after seeing what other dmax parts run :embarrassed:
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Danville Performance pinned AC delco is what I used on the LB7. Probably overkill since I've only heard of very high HP motors spinning an impeller but I'd still use AC Delco OEM. The labor to replace is way to high to to skimp on that part.
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According to my parts house, the oem is 251-748...shop cost is $231...about what shop cost would be from dealer.
The 252 is the cheaper "Professional " series.
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sounds great. will look into picking one up after i get the turbo back together
hopefully the heads are done this week and can go back together
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hi, my name is seth and i have a problem..
i take things apart.
(https://i.imgur.com/WS6o8ub.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gHDHE6S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bFGU4Bq.jpg)
i also put things back together..
(https://i.imgur.com/eqlDD9w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xaZxVnI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/T0OUBKz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BfIFh3V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4dxXEVo.jpg)
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What is it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Turbo part, has Garret on the side.
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What is it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the piece that turned from rust to brown to black is the center section/bearing housing of a garrett GT3788VA turbo. it’s hard to see while in the truck since it’s jammed between the large aluminum compressor housing and the turbine housing (the piece in the oven when the pegs sticking out of the face)
it has oil and coolant fittings in it as well. it’s a jam packed little guy.. but really not that hard to do.
i took it down to every piece, which isn’t necessary for a service. but when i looked inside the VGT solenoid hole i was able to see a bit of gunk/oil residue inside. so.. it came apart for cleaning
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bare housing, ceramic coated and baked
(https://i.imgur.com/mfu2mWO.jpg)
liberal coating of 2k° anti seize
(https://i.imgur.com/MRJIDwI.jpg)
VGT vanes
(https://i.imgur.com/vC7GTS7.jpg)
unison ring (light coating on back)
(https://i.imgur.com/m9fzKxR.jpg)
indexed to accept actuator arm
(https://i.imgur.com/hEtkuOl.jpg)
full extension
(https://i.imgur.com/BjWIBwT.jpg)
full retraction
(https://i.imgur.com/tARGTDb.jpg)
another light coating on the bearing housing mating surface
(https://i.imgur.com/8z7lPD3.jpg)
anti seize
(https://i.imgur.com/NkvtmEM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a8TQsCU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X1yx73q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f3VMFVJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D2FAU0s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bKJ3mhq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YX26RcD.jpg)
factory wheel is just there to hold place until the wicked wheel arrives. then the from of the housing will go on and deem the turbo complete until it goes on the engine
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Where is all that AS going to go?
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idk for sure. most likely right out the back. but some will stick around.
it’s the procedure found on duramax hub..
if it all goes away it won’t be any different than when i pulled it apart. hahah
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Duh! I thought it looked like a turbo (especially since you were just pulling one apart), but the rust colored assy threw me. Never seen one all torn down like that - that must be the actuator for the vanes yeah?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I saw that too, doesn't it go through the motor first?
Also saw there was a SS ring for that. Never checked price. What about ceramic coatings?
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I saw that too, doesn't it go through the motor first?
Also saw there was a SS ring for that. Never checked price. What about ceramic coatings?
no sir. it leaves from here and goes straight out the down pipe and back. it’s exhaust side, so post manifolds and uppipes. even if it still had EGR it wouldn’t be effected.
ceramic coating is a loose term. it’s bake on paint with ceramic in it :grin:
but it should still work.
the bearing housing is just professional krylon.. my figuring is that it has both oil and water running through it.. it doesnt get insanely hot. and if it does, ohh well. just needs to be pretty and black for the build pics :grin:
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Looks good. I doubt the oil is for anything but lube but sure the water helps.
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my thoughts as well. should be ok..? it didn’t have anything on it before. so if it goes back to that.. ohh well. hahah.
can’t wait to get the compressor wheel and front housing on and call this one done!
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I’d like to see some photos of the block where the charger rests before you put it back. Unless I am to late.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I’d like to see some photos of the block where the charger rests before you put it back. Unless I am to late.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i can get that next week once i get back over to it (at the shop). anything in particular you are looking for?
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I know a charger change is in my future, just looking at the whos it’s and where’s its goes kinda things
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I know a charger change is in my future, just looking at the whos it’s and where’s its goes kinda things
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sounds good. i think the hardest parts are going to be uppipes and oil drain into engine/trans adapter. the coolant lines shouldn’t be hard either. they’re on the side of the bearing housing. but i haven’t seen the engine in a truck/know where or how it’s situated under the dash.
i’ll try and get as many pics of it when i goes back on.
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Wonderful!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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JR, i was my $$ back.
you said NIB!!
(https://i.imgur.com/SHz4bC5.jpg)
hahaha jk. it looks amazing
(https://i.imgur.com/mFZS1d6.jpg)
look at the depth difference
(https://i.imgur.com/f5CL2ft.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hzga6Q7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IQ8ZWSc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fETFqiX.jpg)
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Nice. ..Can almost hear the barking through my pc.
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:likebutton:
Ken, I think that’s H barking at you..... :evil:
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JR, i was my $$ back.
you said NIB!!
(https://i.imgur.com/SHz4bC5.jpg)
hahaha jk. it looks amazing
I had to touch it at least!!
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alittle update on the duramax
got some color on it before i went out of town for 2 weeks. hopefully in that time the heads will be back on it and injectors/lines plumbed back up
(https://i.imgur.com/jvDdzr8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IAEMCWj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/reyf3MK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h9Gtq28.jpg)
original plan was to remove old upper and lower oil pans and swap out but after getting color on this one.. i think it will suffice. just have to finish up underneath when i pick it up (literally) and then pull lower pan off and replace gasket/pan (possibly).
should look pretty slick when i get it back. new (refreshed) heads that are fully cleaned. rocker boxes cleaned, valve covers cleaned, intakes and y bridge all back to aluminum. rebuilt turbo with high temp paint on housing, exhaust manifolds, uppipes and a new 3” magnaflow downpipe.
really liking the drivetrain color.. even though the block will be hard to see buried under intake, IC piping, AC tube hoses, cooling lines, power steering pump and belt! haha
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Looks good. Does someone make a better pan that would allow full oil draining?
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Looks good. Does someone make a better pan that would allow full oil draining?
i think PPE, mag and pan make some. may look in to that. help will cooling too. and a few extra quart capacity
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Does the topkick or other formats use the same pan?
Can't believe they really designed it so it holds like 1/2 quart when drained. Dmax is such a great all around truck, just so many little things could be better!
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i honestly don’t know about the pan on the 4500+ models. but you’re right.. seems odd they’d do that. i’d love an aluminum pan to add a quart and the ability to drain it all out.
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couple of things happened today
‘assembled’ the heads/rocker boxes/valve covers today for a quick look see
(https://i.imgur.com/k6k4vsI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yGOwGDZ.jpg)
they had been blasted by machine shop and i really like the look of raw aluminum.
so..
before
(https://i.imgur.com/AiuPbI6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iyo4n0A.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/cDo5HH3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GK8nPwV.jpg)
ARP studs and head gaskets should be here tomorrow. which means i may can get the heads back on and valves adjusted in the afternoon.
time will tell.
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Clean parts are good. Hate to see what my intake looks like with only adding the plate at 50k, then on off as smog required.
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Clean parts are good. Hate to see what my intake looks like with only adding the plate at 50k, then on off as smog required.
no smog. not even OBD II here. just safety :cool:
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Clean/Nice :likebutton:
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did alittle this morning
(https://i.imgur.com/QyQssei.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uyMJ8qV.jpg)
still has good cross hatching (i cleaned up the top 3/8” with super light emory cloth and brake clean)
(https://i.imgur.com/JTQDf9z.jpg)
studs going in
(https://i.imgur.com/IytOOiQ.jpg)
gasket
(https://i.imgur.com/B4QrjhN.jpg)
heads
(https://i.imgur.com/HFpZ7ar.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DmPGYae.jpg)
torqued in 3 rounds. 40 ft lbs, 80 ft lbs, 125 ft lbs
rocker boxes mocked up to keep stuff out until upper gasket kit comes in
(https://i.imgur.com/kDJNef7.jpg)
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After driving my 6.0 Suburban just now, I'm green with envy!
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After driving my 6.0 Suburban just now, I'm green with envy!
there’s a block at the shop with your name on it.. :cool:
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After driving my 6.0 Suburban just now, I'm green with envy!
there’s a block at the shop with your name on it.. :cool:
I know...trying
to
resist...
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After driving my 6.0 Suburban just now, I'm green with envy!
there’s a block at the shop with your name on it.. :cool:
I know...trying
to
resist...
resistance is futile!
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upper head gasket kit arrived
(https://i.imgur.com/mWv5mnj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0M0Pm9V.jpg)
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upper head gasket kit arrived
(https://i.imgur.com/mWv5mnj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0M0Pm9V.jpg)
Thought the heads were on?
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this is everything above the head gaskets. upper gasket kit.
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(https://i.imgur.com/SzNBsoa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ERtqQ2c.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/drCAPHu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ka1pGmZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AGUhUVm.jpg)
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alittle more progress before lunch. hope to have the passenger side on today too. we will see
(https://i.imgur.com/KZ4EtIa.jpg)
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alittle more progress before lunch. hope to have the passenger side on today too. we will see
(https://i.imgur.com/KZ4EtIa.jpg)
Sure looks good
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a bit more. still need one injector oring since one got kinda boogered when i put it in the first time
(https://i.imgur.com/nV5nwtr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HCekL4A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KBt3aoA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hzf1zVg.jpg)
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I thnk PPE or someone makes a nice billet adapter for the PCV hose. I have a set, much better than clamping a hose to the plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Duramax-Diesel-ReRoute-551625/dp/B00V7BDJ0O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=duramax+PCV&qid=1566255470&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWVlYT1VRSVAwSE5PJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjEzNTg0MUVZN1pXRDRUMVQ3NSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE0NzMzMVlWS1ZPWFJFMk82TSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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is that what you have? what do you screw in to the plugs? just a 90° and route it down each side?
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Mine come straight out to nipples.
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Hers the better one! On amazon.
Merchant Automotive 10231 PCV Re-Route Fitting
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ok. sounds good. i’ll check it out. i wonder if 90s are ok as opposed to straight out..?
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Get the cheaper one and put whatever angle you want. SS would be cool.
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anyone know right off hand what size the injector o rings are for the LBZ? can’t find a size, only need one and i’m having a hard time spending $10-20 in shipping for what should be a $.50 part..
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got it nearly buttoned up yesterday
my only concern is the LB7 up pipe seems to be slightly twisted/barely touching the head. wondering is the turbo is in the wrong spot or if the manifold is slightly too far forward. hard to imagine since there are obviously bolts that hold it in place but i guess there could be 1/16” of play in the holes..? just looks alittle odd sitting like that..
(https://i.imgur.com/LYnlmrT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/apKjfp5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UAAUXL4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/stl8Hiw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O1jDwhb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YROzrBG.jpg)
anyone else seeing what i’m seeing? i’ll try and get some better pics of it next week when i got pick it up. but it just seems odd..? and the problem is i can’t remember if it was like that before or not. don’t gave any pics of it just sitting
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what i may end up doing is cutting and welding the LBZ up pipe to make it straight. after further investigation on some previous pics, the bellow on the LBZ pipe is much lower (closer to the manifold) than the LB7 pipe.
(https://i.imgur.com/hSM9Cs0.png)
if you notice, the bellow stops right around the valve cover bolt.
(https://i.imgur.com/O1jDwhb.jpg)
on the LB7 pipe, it almost starts at the valve cover bolt and goes up. so effectively it’s a ‘whole unit’ too far north thus interfering with the head. can someone else confirm i’m not just looking at this wrong?
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It’s a common mod. That I’ve not actually done. Describe the issue again? Pipe touching the back of the head? Is it new or a take off? Perhaps it was bent a little?
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It’s a common mod. That I’ve not actually done. Describe the issue again? Pipe touching the back of the head? Is it new or a take off? Perhaps it was bent a little?
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from what i understand.. it’s new.
i think my issue is where the bellow actually is.
if you look between the 2 pictures you can see that they are off by their length (the 2 bellows) same motor. same manifold. just one pre strip down and one after reassembly with the LB7..
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I think I see what your talking about
Following the bolts on the bottom of the valve cover
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190824/bd4a77701917918c64cc50a238365be8.jpg)
Vs
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190824/6318c4f9a9cc88d8441a736afb6e5cef.jpg)
Someone might remember better but didn’t the expansion flex area become prone to cracking over time?
I’ll open my hood and see what photo I can take for you being a LBZ
What pipes did Don in his truck?
Jr just purchased a set not to long ago not sure what his are either
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sounds good.
maybe i can figure this out next week. if not, i may be welding the old one. not sure if the aftermarket ones are worth it?
i think i have another set of gaskets as well. so i can at least pull off this one and hold the other LBZ one up and look.
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Looking under my hood is worthless. Way to much junk in the way. Sorry pal.
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haha. i’m sure. my 6.0 is the same way.
that pic of the ‘dirty’ engine is mine when i got it. so it should be the same as yours..?
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The lb7 is better than the lbz uppipe?
I think I put an lbz on my lml.... maybe
Edit:
Nevermind, I used an aftermarket.
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so.. the LB7 doesn’t have an EGR riser. but the LLY+ do. so the thought was to just put an LB7 on there and call it done. but.. apparently i’ll have to do something else. maybe a 3/16” spacer made the same outline..?
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I got the PPE setup, they sell the up pipes alone and are larger than stock.
https://www.ppediesel.com/shop/oem-length-replacement-high-flow-up-pipes-gm-6-6l-duramax-2001-ca-and-2001-2004-fed-116120000.html
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I honestly thought all dmaxs through the lml were the same , fitment wise.
Obviously some have EGR, but turbo and exhaust manifold distance didn't change. Could your lb7 pipe be a"cheap" aftermarket that just doesn't fit well? Have you tried loosening the manifold and turbo to test your theory?
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100% could be a cheap up pipe. i bought it and an LLY CAI with MAF sensor in it for $200 (GM wanted $450 for just that. no thanks)
i thought they were all the same too. but i’ve only ever seen this engine out and up close.
i haven’t tested my theory yet. i left the shop right after i took the pics and it’s closed until monday now. pretty sure the turbo is right most bc of the drain pipe lining up and all 3 bolts popped into place. i didn’t want to loosen manifold up for fear of losing the gasket mating (?)
are the up pipe to manifold/turbo gaskets reusable?
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If copper or not run you should be fine. Possibly with no real heat cycles any should be OK.
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they’re double thick flat metal with ridges around the exhaust ports. mahle brand.
i would think so too. just wasn’t sure. maybe it is a combo of both the manifolds being off and the turbo. but the driver side fell right in to place. ideally i’d have new up pipes with no baffles. but there are so many options ranging from $100 to $600 basically. and who knows if they’re any different.
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My pipes???
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figured out the issue..
(https://i.imgur.com/ax5OWMj.jpg)
taking her home anyway
(https://i.imgur.com/cm1YCfl.jpg)
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...
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back close ish
(https://i.imgur.com/r4ooKXO.jpg)
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Purdy right there, where are the bolts!
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bolts.. what bolts?! lol
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I thought you needed to palletize them before sending them to me. ,
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I thought you needed to palletize them before sending them to me. ,
everything is for sale.. :cool:
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not much progress today. spent the day cutting patch block slabs for a shoot house at a marine base close by. installing them tomorrow
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got alittle bit together.
waiting on tstats so i can put housing and hard line on. then i can finish the wire routing and brackets up front
(https://i.imgur.com/Rr3NxGO.jpg)
thoughts on the overall appearance at it sits..?
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Purdy
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Gaw-jus.
(Gorgeous) ;)
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Think they make an intake elbow without the resonator.
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Simply looks brand new from factory. Really nice
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Think they make an intake elbow without the resonator.
the plan at the moment is to run it with resonator plug and PCV plug for a bit and the. switch over to HSP or some sort of the smooth 4” metal intake and sits lower too. resonator plug, PCV plug and new aluminum PCV valve cover fittings are on the way. so are SS uppipes and a PPE fuel rail plug.
next question is.. keep the up pipes SS or blast/scuff is and paint black to match manifolds and turbo
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got alittle bit together.
waiting on tstats so i can put housing and hard line on. then i can finish the wire routing and brackets up front
(https://i.imgur.com/Rr3NxGO.jpg)
thoughts on the overall appearance at it sits..?
Nothing short of one amazing transition!
Who could imagine that thing isn't new or reman?
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(https://i.imgur.com/mMqJGkl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eprzeIp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JJmzdv6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BaxgfyZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TMoMFxf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SEh8Tgd.jpg)
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Can I drop my LB7 off over there?
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Can I drop my LB7 off over there?
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sure thing :likebutton:
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I dare you to make that fit in my K5. That’s a nice looking powertrain
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When can I come trade you my 280k lbz...
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I dare you to make that fit in my K5. That’s a nice looking powertrain
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don’t threaten me with a good time..
my buddy in CA makes it ridiculously easy. just bring it on
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When can I come trade you my 280k lbz...
this one may have that many. idk. hahah.
thanks for the compliments.
i just hope it runs as good as it looks..
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I dare you to make that fit in my K5. That’s a nice looking powertrain
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don’t threaten me with a good time..
my buddy in CA makes it ridiculously easy. just bring it on
This is what I was thinking! Well the easy portion, not sure how good of a time it will be but ya, his stuff would make it super easy.
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couple pieces came in today
(https://i.imgur.com/WsIcNIT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nDV32B7.jpg)
PPE fuel rail plug and DIY PCV reroute kit and plugs for intake horn.
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SS up pipes showed up today too.
PCV reroute fittings
(https://i.imgur.com/YhcyPT5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w4mJdGM.jpg)
resonator plug and PCV plug
(https://i.imgur.com/4gMGtAG.jpg)
PPE fuel rail plug
(https://i.imgur.com/d3ll3sx.jpg)
so now the real question.. keep (both) SS up pipes OR sand blast/scuff and paint black.
(https://i.imgur.com/hiFUFkr.jpg)
with 3” down pipe (just cause i wanted to see how it looked.. :grin:
(https://i.imgur.com/RxmB86F.jpg)
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You are elevating this "Build" into automotive art
I'd expect to see something like this on display in a museum or public venue
The way in which you showcase the natural appearance of the various materials/items is striking
Really nice work!
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Doesn't hurt his photography skills are pretty darn good too there Don, and he doesn't break cameras like you do
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Dang that looks good.
Don doesn't break, he runs over.
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I’d wrap the up pipes and call it done. Heat retention for expanding gasses would help a bit and it would keep under good temps in check.
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Not a bad idea. No one is going to see it but containing the heat is always good.
What up pipes did you get?
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Not a bad idea. No one is going to see it but containing the heat is always good.
What up pipes did you get?
this may sound bad, but they’re just some amazing specials. read a decent amount of reviews on them and ppl were pleased. said it wasn’t worth spending twice as much on a name brand set. these did fine. al we will see. they feel and look good.
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got the wrap in.
(https://i.imgur.com/7gwMMAz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iQyH45G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x3Xq2je.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vZrXVGT.jpg)
whatcha think? (i forgot the gaskets at my house so they’re not torqued all the way down. just checking clearances)
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Very nice, teaser
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I really like the attention to detail.
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Looks good to me.
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I’ll take two please
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Be happy with that one.
I’ll take two please
I take that one with no issues,,,,,,,,,
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Looks really good. Much easier with the motor out for sure
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Looks really good. Much easier with the motor out for sure
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Indeed
and
Makes for a much cleaner and easier swap, having it all built up out of chassis, then just laying it in there all at once. Will be one really cool truck soon.
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final install
(https://i.imgur.com/szmFzxA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bYo2Us1.jpg)
even managed to save the DP bracket off uneven old manifold (had to weld a tab/hole back on to it that broke off) but it fits on there like factory.
(https://i.imgur.com/iCTmNii.jpg)
waiting on the drivers side dipstick tube for the trans to show up. then fill and go over things to make sure fuel lines are tight and such and i didnt miss anything.
by chance, anyone have an old factory fuel filter housing they wouldn’t mind selling? i’m thinking im going to do a FASS or kennedy pump, just not yet. so until then running a factory setup.
(or even a cat fuel filter adapter..?)
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driver side dipstick tube came in today.
(https://i.imgur.com/t3fJKpJ.jpg)
this will eliminate any issues with downpipe interference. just need to adjust the glow plug controller bracket some.
went and got a new AC delco fuel filter. it’ll be fine until i get it all installed and plumbed in the truck. that’ll be a bit. but for now, it’s what i’m going to run.
getting an intake pipe this week so i can install it and MAP. then borrow the LBZ intake/filter box to hold MAF for another test fire
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after alittle bending and manipulating.. got it to fit just right. not hitting anything
(https://i.imgur.com/EdcoG8a.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QxiDKp5.jpg)
going to clean up and mount glow plug controller bracket tomorrow. the soft foam part will rest right against the inside piece of sheet metal of the bracket
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Might want to put a little heat wrap on the tube where it crosses the up pipe. Looks nice
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Might want to put a little heat wrap on the tube where it crosses the up pipe. Looks nice
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yessir. probably should. may run down there today and do that. along with glow plug bracket and controller.
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how’s that TRN..?
(https://i.imgur.com/DAPNwUG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PFRAUlT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n1dLCkZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/flTvivl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qn1Q5Xc.jpg)
not sold on the red glow plug shield. thought it would give it some color but i’m afraid of it being to close to firewall color when done. might pull it off and shoot it black.
thoughts..?
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Looks great,
Question, My transmission dip stick comes up on passenger side of truck not the driver.
Did I miss something?
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so.. i put a 3” downpipe on the truck. and instead of trying to fight with and mess up the pass dipstick, i decided to go driver side from LML to eliminate issues with firewall and/or DP clearance.
(plus it’s recommended with squaremax conversion since the engine mounts allow for DP to clear the firewall but i didn’t want to have another 3/4” diameter pipe to contend with behind that as well
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wow. looking great.
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That engine looks great, can’t you make a transparent engine bay to put it in?
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That engine looks great, can’t you make a transparent engine bay to put it in?
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i’ll try. hahah
maybe the good will be open a lot and people can see if. not bc it’s broken.. but because it’s cool. hahah
and thank you TNR. hoping it cranks and runs soon.
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Is that an option on all Allison 1000 trannys?
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Is that an option on all Allison 1000 trannys?
.. the driver side dip stick? yessir. i believe they’re from LML and up.
but the trans has holes in both sides.. just a plug in the driver side from LB7-LMM
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I'd scrap the red bracket, but everyone knows I have bad taste.
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I'd scrap the red bracket, but everyone knows I have bad taste.
it’s what i had. (i know i shouldn’t have that attitude.. but as soon as i did it, i knew it was wrong lol)
i think i’m going to shave off some of it where it contacts the dip stick and repaint the bracket black.
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Paint it black and you’ll lose 20 hp
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Paint it black and you’ll lose 20 hp
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then i suppose it’s staying red! hahah
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got the engine side intake in the mail today (used from a buddy)
made sure it fit on the engine first.. then immediately blasted it to bare :laugh:
(https://i.imgur.com/Lr0DsgI.jpg)
primer
(https://i.imgur.com/rlM9dfk.jpg)
paint selection. TCS special
(https://i.imgur.com/gLzcyFY.jpg)
all done
(https://i.imgur.com/25oKKzj.jpg)
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They make some good paint. Nice to have one here and up by the land.
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well i just realized that i don’t have a bung for the boost gauge..
next question is, where/how would you install? just drill a hole and weld in a 1/4 NPT bung? mess up my nice paint job? lol.
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well. scratch that. i think the truck will end up with edge insight monitor and it reads/calculates boost from MAP sensor reading. no more holes to be drilled lol
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so.. test fit the pipe with alternator the other day before paint. everything fit and wires are all nice and neat. when taking the alt off, however, i broke the temp sensor on the tstat housing. so i have to get another one of them. went to GM this morning with a 2.5 gal oil jug i cleaned out and got some dec VI for $3.50/qt and ordered a temp sensor. then headed off to the shop for this
(https://i.imgur.com/hPqgwYR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jcElKOc.jpg)
without the EGR valve and motor on the engine anymore ( :evil: ) i had to replace the cast spacer that was the EGR body with some copper pipe
(https://i.imgur.com/Kh9rUDg.jpg)
the upper 2 holes of the intake stand lined up alright with the engine holes, but this tab is far from inline with the factory bracket. i already have the holes and body built for the new bracket, just needs cleaning up and some paint. will go on later
(https://i.imgur.com/38dkdpz.jpg)
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fixed the intake bracket
(https://i.imgur.com/ngt04EO.jpg)
but ran into a crank no start issue when test firing. not like the first time.. unfortunately.
ran out of time to really get in to it tonight. will get back on it thurs and be in touch with both tuner and harness builder. i realize i did pull it down to nothing so it could be something simple like air in lines (my hope) or a ground somewhere. or a plug not connected.
we shall see on thurs.
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big things happened today..
https://youtu.be/0_0sPAFG6wU (https://youtu.be/0_0sPAFG6wU)
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She sounds great!!
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Very nice.
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Very nice!
Outstanding attention to detail, and now it all pays off
Well done!
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some things ‘came together’ today..
hahaha
(https://i.imgur.com/Pogvg55.jpg)
that is all
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Transverse mounted DMAX. Awesome. ;)
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Your subframe...
SYP or Fir?
Sorry, had to go there... :wink:
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Your subframe...
SYP or Fir?
pine
:grin:
Sorry, had to go there... :wink:
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Silly people! :wink:
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ohh happy day
the owner of precision fab called me yesterday to inform me that the 2-4wd conversion cross members are now available for pre order. so i hoped online this morning and for my order placed for one, as well as a set of 52” conversion HD FUSH to give me another 6” of spring length to absorb more of the road and give a better ride. :laugh:
he was final test fitting an LBZ onto his new mounts and starting production after he’s 100% satisfied.
i’m giddy with excitement as this is the piece i’ve been waiting for for over a year now. and finally have motivation to get a move on with the body/frame work.
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got some newer duramax rims and tires on it as rollers. going to move the truck soon and start to pull body.
(https://i.imgur.com/a1voaYc.jpg)
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So remind me, duramax /Allison? 205?
Shortbed, what are you doing in regards to lift / suspension and tire size?
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So remind me, duramax /Allison? 205?
Shortbed, what are you doing in regards to lift / suspension and tire size?
yessir. LBZ/6speed allison/GM round 205
front springs will be 52” swap (technically 53” with the boomerang shackle kit RDP has..) rears will be factory. i’m shooting for 4-6” max with 35/37s. 4.10 gear. dana 60 front. currently has FF14 bolt in the back, but may go over to either an AAM 11.5 (dmax) or mid 90s dana 80 front a cummins truck. we shall see. if i can get some solid measurements from an AAM (WMS-WMS) i’ll go ahead and start that hunt
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Up to around 2008, maybe 2010 the Dmax aam only had 3.5 axles, the Dodge rears has the full 4 inch. But both were 8x6.5 if you want to stay with that. Laters were the new 170mm.
Think the dodge AAM had alum calipers too.
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Up to around 2008, maybe 2010 the Dmax aam only had 3.5 axles, the Dodge rears has the full 4 inch. But both were 8x6.5 if you want to stay with that. Laters were the new 170mm.
Think the dodge AAM had alum calipers too.
i’d be ok with 3.5” diameter axle. those seem to hold up pretty well under duramaxs. and that’s just if i decide to go away from the 14 bolt. not sure if it’s worth it. thoughts?
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I have a late 90’s dodge Cummins 80 drum brake srw axle in the shop and am picking up a 14 bolt disc srw from an 01 maxi in the morning. Let me know if you need any measurements etc
I do have disc setup for that 80 though
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I have a late 90’s dodge Cummins 80 drum brake srw axle in the shop and am picking up a 14 bolt disc srw from an 01 maxi in the morning. Let me know if you need any measurements etc
I do have disc setup for that 80 though
i’ll take both measurements and pics if you don’t mind. the duramax axle should be AAM 11.5.. not 14 bolt?
unless i’m calling it wrong.
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I have a late 90’s dodge Cummins 80 drum brake srw axle in the shop and am picking up a 14 bolt disc srw from an 01 maxi in the morning. Let me know if you need any measurements etc
I do have disc setup for that 80 though
i’ll take both measurements and pics if you don’t mind. the duramax axle should be AAM 11.5.. not 14 bolt?
unless i’m calling it wrong.
It’s possible, was thinking it was still corporate in 2001 though
What measurements you needing exactly? And I misspoke it’s dually on the 2001 maxi
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I think your right AAM 11.5 after a bit more research
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they kept the 14 bolts in the gas trucks for awhile. even the 2500s. they look slightly different. but still 14 bolt.
i need the wheel mating surface to wheel mating surface width. so compare to the 14 bolt that’s currently in the truck.
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Copy, I’ll grab wms tomorrow for you and pics. FYI, the older ford Dana 80’s had a larger pinion bearing and full size tubes all the way out. The 90’s version Dodge axles the tubes neck down before the drum backing flange and not sure if they run large or smaller pinion bearing. Tate has that info...
Pretty sure all Superduty 80’s have full size tubes and smaller pinion bearing but metric wheel mounts which I’m sure can be overcome if needed.
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If you need measurements off a 14bt, let me know. I have one on a stand right now with discs. Some saw it is just as good as the 11.5 and it is easier to work on with way more parts. It is a shortbed right?
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If you need measurements off a 14bt, let me know. I have one on a stand right now with discs. Some saw it is just as good as the 11.5 and it is easier to work on with way more parts. It is a shortbed right?
i’ll take measurements from both. yessir.
the 14bolt i have is an 89 model (same as truck..) which i was told has a different brake setup than the earlier ones (for disk brake conversion kit) but when i swapped tires yesterday it seemed as if they were still the conventional ‘drum pressed on to hub’ setup. as opposed to the slip on version. i’ll have to confirm i got the right kit since they switched over at some point.
and yessir. well. it will be a short bed. long at the moment. but chopping the frame soon
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If you end up using a drum brake axle I have both setups for disc brackets
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11.5 aam ALL diesel 2000+ for 2500/3500
14t corp gas and diesel 72-99, early body style, 00+ gas 2500 some 3500
getting exciting watching this all flesh out!
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11.5 aam ALL diesel 2000+ for 2500/3500
14t corp gas and diesel 72-99, early body style, 00+ gas 2500 some 3500
getting exciting watching this all flesh out!
you may can answer this.. when did chevy go from press on drums (like a front dana 60) to slip on drums (like a mid 00s super duty) bc that’s what i was basing my disk brake conversion setup off of. now i’m questioning which one i got..
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well ALL the aam's were disc, so theoretically 2000+ would have been guaranteed slide on drum style due to the hub change, as the axle bearing and seal kits for the 11.5 and 14t synched up with each other at that time. 73-87 would undoubtedly be press on hub, and here's a disc brake kit from Ruff Stuff that supports the theory, https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1877.html but you could also argue that the design change could have been in effect as early as 88, when they introduced IFS.
"Beginning in 1988, a “slide-on” style of drum was offered on the 14 bolt axle. This was considered an upgrade over the older stud-mounted drum design. However, some vehicles were produced with the older “stud mounted” style of drum after 1988. In fact, both stud mounted and slide-on drums can be found on vehicles as new as 1999."
looks like these guys make a kit for both applications: https://lugnut4x4.com/product/14-bolt-rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit-slide-on-rotors/
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something isn’t lining up right..
(https://i.imgur.com/GIBtrdl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/27bvvzC.jpg)
:grin:
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Lines up fine, for a longbed. Always wanted a crew shortbed or Ext cab shorty (neither ever made, but seen them)
So frame cutting or longbed?
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Lines up fine, for a longbed. Always wanted a crew shortbed or Ext cab shorty (neither ever made, but seen them)
So frame cutting or longbed?
frame cutting. CCLB is just too much truck for anyone with common sense.
wait.. did i say that out loud? lol jk Tex. but yes. CCSB is the goal. should be pretty sweet i’m hoping
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Sweet
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Lines up fine, for a longbed. Always wanted a crew shortbed or Ext cab shorty (neither ever made, but seen them)
So frame cutting or longbed?
frame cutting. CCLB is just too much truck for anyone with common sense.
wait.. did i say that out loud? lol jk Tex. but yes. CCSB is the goal. should be pretty sweet i’m hoping
Hey now... I resemble that remark.
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Something else to consider. The two guys Tate listed for disc kits use China man calipers for their ebrake setups. I’m building setups for all of our disc conversion to use wilwood calipers going forward. Pricing will be competitive in comparison to the China man stuff.....
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Lines up fine, for a longbed. Always wanted a crew shortbed or Ext cab shorty (neither ever made, but seen them)
So frame cutting or longbed?
frame cutting. CCLB is just too much truck for anyone with common sense.
wait.. did i say that out loud? lol jk Tex. but yes. CCSB is the goal. should be pretty sweet i’m hoping
Hey now... I resemble that remark.
so have I... twice lol.
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Something else to consider. The two guys Tate listed for disc kits use China man calipers for their ebrake setups. I’m building setups for all of our disc conversion to use wilwood calipers going forward. Pricing will be competitive in comparison to the China man stuff.....
"Tate in no way shape or form endorses nor recommends said disc brake conversions. The links provide are informational only for the sole purpose of identifying year splits on hub design. In the event of an actual purchase decision, please refer to Shawn, actual expert in field with appropriate knowledge base, and pay no attention to the Tate behind the curtain" :embarrassed:
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AAM axles are also 38 spline (correct me if that’s incorrect Tate)
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AAM axles are also 38 spline (correct me if that’s incorrect Tate)
That is incorrect. 38 spline optional, must bore spindles, but stock is 1.5" 30 spline and will often interchange with 14t 10.5 axle shafts.
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:likebutton:
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keep me posted on AAM 11.5 and dana 80 widths. or.. talk me in to keeping the 14 bolt. lol
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Sorry, forgot to measure and get pics today. AAM 11.5 has the side adjusters just like a 14 bolt. So easier to setup than an 80 which puts shim stacks behind bearing on case. Disc brakes w/ factory e-brake setup (hard to beat) although these are harder to find reasonable. Until today I hsve not found one local under $500 and this one needs freshened up (bearings and seals).
My next question for Tate, 80 parts are big $$$$$
How are the AAM 11.5 parts in regards to price and 38 spline shafts what are locker / carrier options?
So far the corporate 14 bolt is hard to beat in regards to parts pricing and upgrades.
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2001 newer Dually AAM 11.5 axle measures 74.25” wms
Dodge Dana 80 mid 90’s SRW measures 70.25” wms
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14t 10.5 = strong, abundant, affordable.
d80 = strong, abundant, costly.
11.5 = slightly stronger than both, abundant, costly.
the only reason I would choose an 11.5aam to put money into building up into a high performance differential is if it were already under the vehicle. the 10.5 14t is a stalwart of the industry and can really hold it's own against both of these bigger boys. The pilot bearing and pinion support prevent deflection meaning it can handle much more load than anything without one could, and there are just flat more of them to choose from.
38 spline axles on an 11.5 and spool are a great choice for a 1600hp diesel sled puller or drag truck. overkill and overspend for really anything else. 38 spline lockers don't have the room to make the side gear larger on the O.D. so the ID change to accept the larger axles compromises the integrity from the locker to the axle. which would you rather replace? additional machine work required to bore the spindle, increasing heat, reducing load capacity, on top of extra $$.
I'll put his name out there which usually prompts a sighting, but I think Norm would back me up on the 14t over the other two.
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The later model 14bt with discs I have was just $350. WMS to WMS is 68in.
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The later model 14bt with discs I have was just $350. WMS to WMS is 68in.
Thank you for validating JR
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Thanks Tate, interesting JR as the earlier ones were 63, 67 & 72 cc, srw, dually
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ok ok. you talked me in to it. keeping the 14 bolt. now to just make sure i have the right disk brake setup.
possibly chromoly half shafts. get tate to toss a dura grip my way, new gaskets and seals. maybe pinion guard (bc i mall crawl) and call it a day! hahah
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repost in here too:
so.. i’ve been doing some reading and thinking (mostly thinking) about how to efficiently run dual tanks on the dmax. well.. not just thinking about dual tanks but also a burb tank behind the rear axle too.
i found a manual 6 port brass valve that would make it fool proof to operate (no wires) and has the return going to the appropriate tank as well. pretty slick design. but i’m not sure i want that. other thought is burb tank. pretty straight forward. just 33 gal behind the axle.
option #3 i’m tossing around is plumbing the 2 tanks together with a single low ~1” line crossing between the 2..
now i know this sounds risky, but a quick glance at the truck the other day shows that the tanks dont hang below the frame. so. thought: drill a hole in the frame close to the bottom of the channel forward on the tanks. weld bungs into said tanks and have them run across and over DS just behind tcase.
tell me i’m wrong and just need to run a burb tank, not worry about being able to carry a full size spare and need to figure out how to fill it. which would be more functional..?
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ol girl is at her new ish home. hoping to get some parts pulled off and out next week
(https://i.imgur.com/6bB0BJA.jpg)
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Options are more useful. With the dual tanks one can have a problem and the other still work.
Are you lifting the truck at all? Spare tire might not fit if it’s bigger than a 33 tire
Behind the seat tank?
Transfer tank in the bed?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Options are more useful. With the dual tanks one can have a problem and the other still work.
Are you lifting the truck at all? Spare tire might not fit if it’s bigger than a 33 tire
Behind the seat tank?
Transfer tank in the bed?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
truck will be lifted 4-6” max. 35-37” tires.
behind seat isn’t really and option. in bed would be ok if i were keeping 8’ box, but i’m shortening to 6.5’
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I am one of the guys that don't like sumps on a tank, let alone a crossover, but Don has yet to rip his out yet (sump in plastic tank) and that's saying something.
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The modern valve would work, especially if you're starting from scratch. The single gauge wire from the original tank, would go to the valve. Then the 2 wires from the dual tanks go to the valve. Then a mid 80s "depress fully" switch on the dash.. I believe that 3 wires from that goes back to the valve for a total of 6.
It's been quite a few years since I worked on that style but can get a schematic if you go that direction.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200126/494b11b5afe2b86ce27975dd9f4fcffa.jpg)
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I ha all 3 tanks in my 77, saddles and a burb, loved it and used a mech valve. No return on y setup.
I like the bigger tank in back alone, heck you can get a 40 gal!
Whats wrong with cross over? Simple and you run from one tank. Use a one way on the cross overs and a small vent tube. Fill rear separately, I used a crossover to fill the saddles so only had to pump from one side.
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i’m tossing it up at the moment.
easy and decent capacity: burb tank
same ish capacity: ~32 gal with saddle tanks with either a transfer or balance line.
combined complication:all 3 tanks.
don’t know.
if the saddle tanks aren’t there, i can mount air tanks and compressor.
and with 35-37s i think y’all are right.. won’t have any way to get a spare tire under the back anyway..
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32 with saddles?
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Yep, short beds were 16 each, but Ive heard of 20s stuffed. Rear can be up to 40, what I have in sub. Or build custom.
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Yep, short beds were 16 each, but Ive heard of 20s stuffed. Rear can be up to 40, what I have in sub. Or build custom.
do you have any pics of said 40 gal tank in the truck? how low does it hang/where does it fit between? any way you could determine if it would fit along with a B&W turnover gooseneck ball in front of it?
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Heres a pic of my 40gal tank on the Sub. Plenty of room IMHO.
I can get a few more, The tank seam is about an inch below the lower frame rail.
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Pretty sure you can fit 20s on a crew cab. What year is this again? Carbureted? Or efi? You mentioned fuel lines on left side but only FI had those.
Edit: sure like that 40 in the back Jr.
Less likely to explode from a side impact. Haha
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JR, that 40 is in the diesel Sub?
Looking at that, I got to thinking if one might not just fit in my 2002 Suburban.
Fuel capacity in that truck is not what I want considering it is soon to be a supercharged gasser which will be everything except mileage friendly. Figuring on a best of 10 MPG pulling the trailer and more likely, 8 MPG, I need a lot mo-gas to go anywhere and not have to slow down and let the zombies get me.
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Heres a pic of my 40gal tank on the Sub. Plenty of room IMHO.
I can get a few more, The tank seam is about an inch below the lower frame rail.
how does it look from a decent distance away? does it stick way down and very noticeable or is it just kinda there? i’m still thinking all this through and how much hassle i want to go through. hah.
ideally there would be a very simple solution to the 2 16 gal saddle tanks. but if not, a 33-40 gal burb tank will clearly work. and with an expected high teens possibly 20 mpg out of a tuned and deleted LBZ, 600 miles is a long way to drive on a tank..
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I had an 86 and an 87 full size blazer that had a tank that big. I also had a 2" reciever on the back of them, and with the receiver attached you couldn't see that it was there....but then again that may also have been because of the steel skid plate that spanned that entire area....
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I had an 86 and an 87 full size blazer that had a tank that big. I also had a 2" reciever on the back of them, and with the receiver attached you couldn't see that it was there....but then again that may also have been because of the steel skid plate that spanned that entire area....
Yes, same on the subs. But these are bolt on recievers, not intregated into the bumper.
Having goo range is also a safety matter and you get to pick where you buy fuel.
Pics from a little further back. Tape under the lowest part, little over 18in, plus the housing so around 22in. Sub is on 32in tires with a 4in lift.
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i think i’d be ok with that. since i’ll be 35s at least and 4-6” lift. so a minimum of 3” taller. and that’s with 40 gal. could maybe but an in or 2 with a 33 gal tank.
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should i mention that i’m not wheeling this thing? lol. it’s more of a ‘how does it look’ than ‘will it drag crap’ thing. hahah
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I think that will work for me as well. Have 6"-7" lift on 35's so clearance should be fine. I'd put a skid plate beneath, but a good inexpensive alternative.
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this is mighty persuasive.
only other thing i could possible consider working on is a mid 00s 1500 tank. they’re inside frame mounted, hung from above, plastic and 26 gal. just need to measure one to see what i’m working with. but at this point would be the only other alternative at the moment.
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Does that titan tanks company not make larger tanks that you could fit? Pretty dons burn frame is the same as the 2500 non HD frame
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Does that titan tanks company not make larger tanks that you could fit? Pretty dons burn frame is the same as the 2500 non HD frame
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I didn't see one for the non HD because they only make tanks for diesel trucks. Some legal thing...
Anyway going from 31 gal to 50 for $1200 vs going from 37 gal to 73 gal for $400 is a no brainer.
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I got my last 40gal tank for around $200 on amazon. Was a nice tank to for the 91 sub. Plus it is setup for FI pump.
You will need to fab upper mounts since it is a wrap around cradle with straps. Not hard though.
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I got my last 40gal tank for around $200 on amazon. Was a nice tank to for the 91 sub. Plus it is setup for FI pump.
You will need to fab upper mounts since it is a wrap around cradle with straps. Not hard though.
I'm listenin'
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Wish I still had all the pics, long gone. Just used a couple 1/8 straps over the top of the tank to conform. Yours will be harder, my bed was off when I did mine. I ran the fill straight up through the bed. Run yours to the wheel well.
Just be sure to get a FI tank when ordering. Replace the cheapo TPI 14psi pump with a hp FI pump (same size) and you still have all the right lines on it.
You can see the tank and straps in this pic.
Here is a teaser of the inside
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JR, I think mine would be dirt simple.
Just run the same fill line that is already there, and drop the fuel transfer pump from the burb stock aux tank into the new tank. Hang it and motor on
Easy Peasy!
I hope
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King of DOTs ^^^
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King of DOTs ^^^
Yep, maybe we should be in the Suburban thread,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,me bad
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Sorry!
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Sorry!
apology accepted
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big things are happening..
(https://i.imgur.com/w1hceKx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nKorxkQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KE0cMsn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/haoiVvf.jpg)
so far.. no broken bolts, curse words, lost (thrown) wrenches or more dents than we started with.. :beercheers:
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Time for a swap! (and paint)
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Is it finished yet? :tongue:
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Is it finished yet? :tongue:
Time for a swap! (and paint)
believe me.. it feels like it already. been sitting for at least a year untouched. and to have moved shops, pulled it inside and starting to disassemble all in a week feels amazing
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Is it finished yet? :tongue:
Time for a swap! (and paint)
believe me.. it feels like it already. been sitting for at least a year untouched. and to have moved shops, pulled it inside and starting to disassemble all in a week feels amazing
I have so many things going I get overwhelmed sometimes.
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(https://i.imgur.com/0jQzt7L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8uVCdJ7.jpg)
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Worried about losing your chains?
;)
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Worried about losing your chains?
;)
hahah. it’s a friend of mines setup. he actually pulled for motor without me. i’m on a trip to VA in the pete at the moment.
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I like the single headlight fronts better. What I have on the 91 gasser. Way more room for cooler and lights.
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pretty clean frame
(https://i.imgur.com/O83VwAy.jpg)
no tanks, brake lines, fuel lines or wiring
(https://i.imgur.com/HfXBWgH.jpg)
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Sure wish I had the 1/4 frame like yours. 2500 subs are .180.
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not sure exactly how thick it is. but i want to say it’s shy of 1/4”. but def not .180
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You're sure the longer tanks won't fit?
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You're sure the longer tanks won't fit?
yessir. 14” coming out of the frame. and there’s a cab mount right in front of where the long bed tanks currently sit. and a channel in the middle of the tank that goes under a cross member on the body if i’m not mistaken.
biggest thing is the cab mount 1” in front of the front the tank.
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Makes sense
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Cool, factory is always better for fuel tanks.
Found this for 40 gallon tank, had mine all the way back.
https://youtu.be/lppl_ONgzLA
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This is better, more like I did.
https://youtu.be/z7u6dKOg2mk
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Cool, factory is always better for fuel tanks.
Found this for 40 gallon tank, had mine all the way back.
https://youtu.be/lppl_ONgzLA
going to explore this for sure. can’t wait to get to that point.
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Recall it was pretty easy and I had the bed off too. Same time I added a crossover for filling.
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(https://i.imgur.com/Wy1dsJu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/84Dix73.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HqFOw8U.jpg)
tentative cut marks for the short bed swap
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Think you need all the room in the rear. Can't you just cut the center?
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Think you need all the room in the rear. Can't you just cut the center?
no sir. gotta cut the back too. short bed is 6’6” long. long bed is 8’. 14” from center leaves around 4” that has to be had from somewhere. from what i can tell, different year model long beds require different lengths to be removed from the back. some are ~2”. some as much as ~5” if i’m not mistaken.
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got alittle done last night. just temporary fitting to make sure we did it right. hahah
(https://i.imgur.com/eajoarw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DDQPVLh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cl8TqXu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sDHtgay.jpg)
had to set the turnover ball plate on to see what it looked like
(https://i.imgur.com/4RQzKnA.jpg)
just have to clean up the welds some more and get alittle bit of reinforcement done on the inside.
thinking of through bolting some 5” x 1/4” plate on either side with graded hardware. thoughts??
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Looks good. I’d just weld a box section in that spans 12 inches each side of the cut.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Box section or plate it at least.
Wish they had really made that.
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thanks everyone.
and yes, would have been awesome. this is going to be a crew cab short bed 4wd 1 ton running gear ‘89 3+3. took just 9 calendar days from pulling it in the shop to having it ‘roughly’ done. hah
still needs considerable clean up and reinforcement. but should be good to get 4wd swap stuff on there next week (scheduled delivery is monday..)
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rolled her outside for the first time.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZM0MDqQ.jpg)
then started pulling stuff off. doors and glass are completely removed.
(https://i.imgur.com/XR3NZFy.jpg)
if you look at the side shot, it looks like the bed is alittle downhill. but i think what’s going on is the cab body mounts are deteriorated some up front and causing it to look like it’s ‘bent’ some.
we measured the frame after chopping it down and the section under the cab is parallel to the very rear section of frame behind where the spring hangers mount. and it’s < 1/16” cross taping from front bed bolt hole to rear bed bolt hole.
could anyone else with a c/k series truck confirm the parallel frame sections for me? (bottom of main section under cab, top of frame over the axle, and bottom of rear section of frame behind spring hanger. all of mine are parallel)
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and of course this just popped up close by me.
im really tempted to figure out how to pick this up..
(https://i.imgur.com/WZmb5YQ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/9eqn4YY.png)
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I like. What are they asking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I like. What are they asking?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
way high. thanks to mecum and barrett jackson. lol. but it is a really cool and rare truck.
that being said. 6800 for basically the shell and frame. would obviously need 8 lug conversion and engine/trans. new rear axle. but all i see when i look at it is COOL!
also, i ive hit a snag on the rear tank swap. i believe the 10 series and blazer/burb trucks all had shocks outboard of the frame. mine are inboard. does anyone see an issue with moving the shocks outboard? between frame and leaf springs. i think i can source the mounting tab from either my dads old junk K5 or scrap yard. and then just get some nice clean weld on tabs for the axle. can anyone with a burb get some measurements of the tank itself and where exactly it sits?
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It's welded? Might have to start shimming.
I remember having a similar issue when I body swapped my 73. I think I had to shim the core support but honestly don't remember the details.
Still need measurements? Anything I can get with the bodys still in place?
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It's welded? Might have to start shimming.
I remember having a similar issue when I body swapped my 73. I think I had to shim the core support but honestly don't remember the details.
Still need measurements? Anything I can get with the bodys still in place?
just angles of the main section under to cab and the tail end of the frame just before the bumper. doesn’t need to be level.. just need to know if they’re in the same plane (if that makes sense..)
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Looks good, looks like you have the full tach dash to. Getting hard to find.
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Looks good, looks like you have the full tach dash to. Getting hard to find.
yessir. that’ll go away with the dakota digital dash that’s going in with the LBZ
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If you go with the Dakota, that stock dash will fetch a nice penny.
Still have one for my Sub, but need to figure the tach drive out.
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If you go with the Dakota, that stock dash will fetch a nice penny.
Still have one for my Sub, but need to figure the tach drive out.
what’s a reasonable price for it?
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When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.
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When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.
ohh man. that would be great. just about cover the engine mounts or trans mount for the LBZ/allison
i’ve heard back from another friend of mine who has a crew and all the ‘flat’ spots on the frame are all within .5° of each other. so i’m good to go from here on i think.
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When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.
I converted mine into a tach. Iirc, it was from an 80s Camaro. Not going to work now.
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When I last looked, they were going for in the $250 area for the tach option setup. Got mine for $100 way back.
I converted mine into a tach. Iirc, it was from an 80s Camaro. Not going to work now.
what’s not going to work..?
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The conventional tach we talked about.
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ahh. i gotcha. well.. i’m sure it can be sorted out
received a package in the mail today.
(https://i.imgur.com/4s60Naa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6ktNySs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cWBcaM3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lj3dtGg.jpg)
not my work.. but look at that tig skill. amazing.
i can’t wait to get it coated and bolted in to place.
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That is nice. So Duramax to squarebody?
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welds are about 1/2 way done and cleaned up.
(https://i.imgur.com/YC4iepx.jpg)
front core support/spring brackets clamped in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/pUfH3qM.jpg)
only 1 hole lines up :shocked:
(https://i.imgur.com/luiDPjB.jpg)
all good though. i’ll drill them out. and make a large plate for the back to act as a washer/cover for the older holes.
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holes drilled and make shift hardware holding it in place. just went and bought all new graded bolts to hold it in place after powder. i think it turned out nicely
(https://i.imgur.com/KfQyxmc.jpg)
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front upper shackle hangers (FUSH) installed.
was a really straight forward install. kit was complete and very easy to use. nearly fool proof.
started by cutting the rivet heads off the front cab mounts and clean off wheeled down to the frame. drove the the rivets out alittle and then pried the mount off. the bolted the template in to place and drilled the 1/4” pilot hole
(https://i.imgur.com/b8XhZ1D.jpg)
took it off and drilled a 1.75” hole in the frame. then sand drummed the hole to 1.875” to put the bracket in/on
(https://i.imgur.com/d5rZ7oh.jpg)
bolted the cab mount on the other side and put the FUSH inside with provided hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/a9g5fY8.jpg)
pushed bushings in and hung the boomerang shackles on with ARP hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/XiXau9A.jpg)
rinse and repeat
(https://i.imgur.com/dnDV8bJ.jpg)
52” swap FUSH installed
(https://i.imgur.com/TvY4osi.jpg)
gooseneck plate located. 1/4” pilot holes drilled through plate and frame. it’s pushed as far back as it can be without hitting the under bed stringer in this location
(https://i.imgur.com/pB45OLv.jpg)
now.. question:
the B&W install for this C/K model truck called for holes to be drilled through the bed and into the plate from the top. basically the bottom of the bed sits on the top of the gray plate. but i don’t want 4 more holes than needed in my bed. so.. my thought is: drill the plate to 1/2” diameter. countersink a bevel and use a grade 8 pan head machine screw/bolt to sit flush with the top of the gray plate and under the bed completely. or.. tap the hole to 1/2” threads and bolt it in from the bottom.
thoughts?
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That way heavier than mine from DIY. I just use the stock holes (4), no template.
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That way heavier than mine from DIY. I just use the stock holes (4), no template.
he’s got an HD version for factory location. the 4 holes at the front will small pilot hole are for ‘factory’ location for doing a 4wd conversion. i just decided to do 52” for a better ride.
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I don't like the panhead idea, nor the tapping holes idea.
Maybe weld some other brackets on the sides?
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I don't like the panhead idea, nor the tapping holes idea.
Maybe weld some other brackets on the sides?
what are your concerns with the ideas?
if it helps, the areas to be tapped/machined are 5/8”-11/16” of material. 1/4” plate of the main the body with 3/8”-7/16” plate welded to the corners where the bolts pass
(https://i.imgur.com/WDxi5iB.jpg)
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I don't like the panhead idea, nor the tapping holes idea.
Maybe weld some other brackets on the sides?
what are your concerns with the ideas?
if it helps, the areas to be tapped/machined are 5/8”-11/16” of material. 1/4” plate of the main the body with 3/8”-7/16” plate welded to the corners where the bolts pass
(https://i.imgur.com/WDxi5iB.jpg)
It might be thick enough, but it is just mild steel.
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Didn't realize it was that thick.
3 or4 per side ?, large...5/8"+ w/red loctite and lockwashers sounds maybe reasonable...?
Still doesn't give me warm and fuzzies Tbh, but I also tend to over engineer crap like this...but then again it's only going to be as strong as that section of frame.
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Right Ken, it’s still just a square body...... poke poke :evil:
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Right Ken, it’s still just a square body...... poke poke :evil:
Don't you have a 24v to de-tune by installing a 210 pump?
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y’all are hilarious.
i talked to the machine shop guy. he’s doing 4 1/2x20 fine thread holes tapped all the way though. 1 1/2” grade 8 bolt has a single shear of 22k lbs. the threads will be deeper than the supplied nut from B&W and the grade 8s are stronger than the supplied carriage bolts as well (supplied were 1/2” coarse thread grade 5 [i believe] with a nut and washer)
but y’all are probably right.. i think that the frame will be the weak point in this whole deal. which i’m ok with. can’t do much about that..
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Seems like many of us like SB,,,,,,,,,
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Seems like many of us like SB,,,,,,,,,
SB..?
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Square Body
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Square Body
ahh. right. of course. lol. does anyone else here have a gooseneck hitch in a truck? i guess i should have asked before drilling holes in frames.. but the ball looks to be 4-5” forward of axle centerline. any issues with that? i think i’m ~5’ from the bed corner to ball and i think most goosenecks are at least 6’ to the front..
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Just measured my '12 gmc w/B&W, 6.5' box. The center of the goose is about 5" forward of the center of the wheel wells, 35" from the front of the bed.
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Just measured my '12 gmc w/B&W, 6.5' box. The center of the goose is about 5" forward of the center of the wheel wells, 35" from the front of the bed.
how far is the balk from the bed corner? i’ll have to measure how far it is from the front of the bed. i’d guess somewhere in the 30-32” range? i think i’m 4’ from the back of the bed. and these are truly 6’6” beds. i think the newer ones (at least my f250) is 6’9” maybe..?
either way.. i guess i’m pretty close to being ‘right’ (with the manufacturer lol)
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Shouldn't it be forward of the axle a little? Wouldn't you need a little weight transfer and on a steep hill the CL would be behind the CL if centered, not good.
Axle CL seems the way to go.
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What do you mean from the bed corner?
4 or 5" forward is probably perfect. Really doesn't matter about bed placement, unless needing room for a fifth wheel to keep from hitting the cab, but still needs to be forward of the axle.
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Shouldn't it be forward of the axle a little? Wouldn't you need a little weight transfer and on a steep hill the CL would be behind the CL if centered, not good.
Axle CL seems the way to go.
i agree. plus is helps push some weight on the front axle too. somewhat. not trying to pick it up from the back.
it may not ever get used but i want it to be there and capable lol. i mean why else put 7-800ft lbs in a truck and never hook to it?
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For what it’s worth in a former life when we would build a custom bed we placed them 6” forward of rear axle centerline.
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All good suggestions. You want weight transfer to the front axle. That’s where some of the extra capacity of the hitch system comes from. I’d go 6as hippy suggested.
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so.. measured it today. 34.5” from the front. and. ~6” forward of axle center line.
i’m glad my guesstimating lined up with everyone’s suggestions. hopefully the hole comes out correct.
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i think i’m going to bump them down to 1 1/4” long.
(https://i.imgur.com/8043luj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GDT0zh2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9MJPZPe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tk7IRpa.jpg)
also, the safety chain hooks will need to moved. in current location, they’re literally on the slope od the bed corrugations. so i’m going to move them 2” outboard so they’re in the bottom of the next channel.
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Looks good.
Have you seen this truck? They used a 12v but the truck is similar in concept. I also didn't realize the rear seat was capable of folding into a bed on the Western Hauler crew cabs like the donor I have. Pretty cool.
https://youtu.be/vZ17YHSQ22A
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Looks good.
Have you seen this truck? They used a 12v but the truck is similar in concept. I also didn't realize the rear seat was capable of folding into a bed on the Western Hauler crew cabs like the donor I have. Pretty cool.
https://youtu.be/vZ17YHSQ22A
i like the extended cab area. but will be doing it on mine. it is a pretty slick ride though. for sure. may have just found the steering column too. i like that short little guy.
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What a cool truck
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when doing these things.. i guess it’s expected that there will be custom mod on custom mod. this one included redrilled the safety chain hook holes. for some reason, they lined up with the interior slope of the next inboard corrugation. i couldn’t have that. so i lined the body up, measured out and redrilled to where the hooks sat center is the lower channel.
(https://i.imgur.com/DxRWsTo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/py8SH6r.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zZfqT38.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cNtoPbs.jpg)
now that that is done and the rear cross member has been removed so the bed is sitting flat down on all 4 stringers.. i think the bed is ready to come off. along with the cab.
my real issue that i can see now is that the bed is sitting -1° down in the back while all the rest of the flat spots on the frame are at 0°? i even measured the rocker on the truck thinking it was off but it was dead on 0° too. any square body owners, do any of you have shims under the bed anywhere? i was worried that when i cut the frame and put it back together i dropped the tail end some but the rear section of frame all the way at the rear bumper is sitting at 0° as well. matches up to the section i cut both in front of an behind the cut, the main section under the cab and the flat section up front where the motor mounts bolt to the frame. i can’t tell where i’m off. or if my bed had shims under it from the factory. i don’t know but i just got the bed from a friend who pulled it out of a junk yard. i know it wasn’t as precise then as it is now.. i just want to make sure i didn’t royally mess something up or doing something wrong by shimming the bed and the cab some
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If you want it perfect, shim it. Won't hurt a thing.
.. front of my bed.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200226/b969ccaee9423e92ab10b3df70783d78.jpg)
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I shimmed my cab as it slopped down to the level bed, never an issue.
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awesome. i was hoping to see some shims under a bed out there somewhere. idk how much it’ll need. but i’m going to have to do something. it’s gotta be right.
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ok. so the bed is off for hopefully the final time. however, after some suspension about frame alignment, i found some C/K frame measurement diagrams.
and now there is some disturbing info. in my semi-haste to get the frame back together and just checking for square, it appears i was correct. the back of the frame is roughly 3/4” lower than it should be.
so.. question to both welders and body guys. should i cut the frame again and correct it? if i do cut.. do i cut it on same line i did originally or do i find somewhere else? i’m going to leave the top connected just to keep the length and square right.
or.. do i just body space the back up? i’d rather it be just frame.. :undecided:
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3/4" is a pretty decent amount.
Judging by the quality of work you and your father do, I can imagine you kicking yourself in the butt if you don't"fix" it now while it's somewhat easy.
Other problem with shimming that much gap is that the ribs of the bed are meant to be supported by the frame along it's entirety (pretty sure), and would have to figure out how to retain shims where there isn't bolts.
That being said, guys have used body lifts forever and don't worry about bed support between the bolts.
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so.. here’s the situation
(https://i.imgur.com/k7svfBK.jpg)
with both As at the same level (jacked it up to achieve) both Bs are suppose to be the same height from the ground. they’re not. by a fair amount. (3/4-7/8”)
(this information was found from a diagram online)
the next question is where to cut (assuming that’s the decision)
(https://i.imgur.com/cUFT1Wh.jpg)
see if this makes sense. since all the bolt holes line up and the frame is dead on square, cut up from the bottom at either points A or B towards the top with cab supported. stop maybe 1” from top of frame or until movement can be achieved. set bed back on. lower jack until bed/body gap along with middle and rear measurements line up. tack on place. removed bed reweld and grind back clean. plate frame on inside and then for added assurance, box it there as well
i think it all occurred by being even 1/16” out top and bottom of cut and ground sections. 1/8” of play overall could easily account for 3/4”+ out 5’ away. my buddy i’m working with thinks it’s something with the frame and not what we did. it’s at his shop. hoping i can show him that between human error and missing that single measurement it’s off. not a huge error at the cut but the effects are shown down the line/frame. i told him it was my fault. which it was. i didn’t fully research it to ensure i had all the info and reference points.
does this seem like a reasonable fix? anyone see any strength issues i’m missing?
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I’d cut it on same line all the way up the vertical then do as you stated. I’d form a piece in a c shape to fit inside long enough if you scribed a 30 degree angle from top and bottom of cut in both directions the c shape would extend at least as far as those scribed lines. Then only box if you are doing that in other areas (not sure of your build plans exactly).
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I think as far out as it is, I would leave it unless you are doing something for a show vehicle that has to be right.
Shims don't hurt a thing. The bed is supported by the crossrails that the bolts run down through. As long as where the bolts go through you have support to the frame you are good for strength.
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Unless it’s Sema then it would fit right in JR..... :wink:
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Unless it’s Sema then it would fit right in JR..... :wink:
was that a jab at me.. or SEMA? :shocked: hahah.
i think ive decided to cut it and fix it now. otherwise i’ll be fighting and compromising from
now until the truck is done. and even after knowing it’s wonky. bumpers won’t fit right. hitch will be down. etc.
still have a few days to mull it over. i’ve been searching for reasons to not.. but i keep coming back to just fixing it
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Definitely not your work, some of the guys sending stuff to SEMA though leaves a lot to be desired.....
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so. do you agree that it needs to be sliced again and fixed??
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so. do you agree that it needs to be sliced again and fixed??
Yes, as I stated above. Otherwise knowing your build quality this is going to bother you. It’s a bummer but take the several hours and fix it now as it’s fairly easy to do.
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you’re not wrong. it’s all i would be able to think about while driving. or changing the oil. or just it sitting in the drive way.
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you’re not wrong. it’s all i would be able to think about while driving. or changing the oil. or just it sitting in the drive way.
And there is the answer to your question.. Shim it up and face these things or straighten it up and be done with it.. Better to be talking about how you needed to redo something than doing it the easy way and never being happy with the fix.
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Can't argue with that, I know the feeling. Get her right so it doesn't bother you forever.
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so. do you agree that it needs to be sliced again and fixed??
Yes, as I stated above. Otherwise knowing your build quality this is going to bother you. It’s a bummer but take the several hours and fix it now as it’s fairly easy to do.
Exactly
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Saw this.
https://frontstreet.media/2020/02/28/the-secrets-of-the-3200-horsepower-executioner-diesel-engine/
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Saw this.
https://frontstreet.media/2020/02/28/the-secrets-of-the-3200-horsepower-executioner-diesel-engine/
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good gracious murphy..
it’s like the formula 1 motor for cummins. holy cow
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https://youtu.be/z-_RgB_-Ue0
Yup
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Holy cow Batman!
That.
Is.
Nuts.
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I want flames out the tailpipe!
Its just money, right?
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Flames 12ft back of the turbo! Oh yeah!
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Definitely a nice touch.
Just stay back it’s a little warm here...
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so i checked the motor over just bc i hadn’t looked at it in awhile and found that the DS PTO cover was leaking. i had reused the old gasket from the allison and i guess it didn’t seal back up right when j reinstalled. anyway. i pulled it off and put a new on one. pleased with the way the insides looked
(https://i.imgur.com/w4iI7wd.jpg)
i put a new felpro gasket back on with the ever so slightest film of RTV around the very outside to help seal it up. i’m crazy hesitant to put RTV in or around a trans for fear of it floating around. but this was extreme outside of gasket and literally a film.. so i think i’m good. and it’ll be good and dry before it gets run again. i may do the same to the PS while i can bc it’s easy.
also.. any of you 6.6 guys ever seen this on the oil cooler/filter housing? i can’t seem to find the washers that seem to be leaking anywhere. all the rebuilds have the orings and larger crush washers did the coolant but not the copper ones under these bolts. unless i’m missing something..?
(https://i.imgur.com/RKct5ub.jpg)
i know it’s cruddy .. and i think after looking at the pics realized what may have happened. when pulling the motor it may have hit something, squished the aluminum housing a bit at the seal/gasket area and caused it to start leaking. im going to get a brush and clean it off and see if i can’t locate it for sure. maybe just pull it off to give it a good cleaning anyway?
can anyone confirm that these are indeed just copper crush washers?
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finally drove me crazy and went over there to fix the frame/bed issue
(https://i.imgur.com/svOGwQ7.jpg)
just cut straight down to just above the bottom curve to maintain correct length and square. then ground out the cut until the numbers matched. after that. tossed the bed on and burned it in to place.
much more better
(https://i.imgur.com/aaUIZuw.jpg)
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Good choice IMO.
What washers are you talking about, the ones under the pressure relief valves?
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Good choice IMO.
What washers are you talking about, the ones under the pressure relief valves?
i guess..? i’m not sure what they are. but i saw the bolt heads and just thought they were plugs. i can’t find them anywhere. or even an exploded diagram of those parts apart..
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:likebutton:
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I would try to tighten it first. They don't start leaking for no reason.
They're either aluminum, or copper washers. .. FYI they're under pressure.
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(https://i.imgur.com/useMbs6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VVHWTcu.jpg)
now.. that’s pretty cool i must say.
ready for paint (need to double check but i think it’s paint ready rust inhibitor. no washing necessary. in fact i really feel like i remember it saying it was an adhesion promoter)
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That’s with the new rig? Wow. Looks great. What do you have in the set up 25k?
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i wish.
but having the right tools seem to make all the difference.
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nothing to see here. move along. :beercheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/PNdf8Ml.jpg)
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Pretty cool having a hoop in the front windshield
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Going to discs in back?
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Going to discs in back?
100%. once i get the frame blasted and painted, going to put a roller HD D60 back there and go through the 14 bolt. already have the kit for it. just need to install.
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got it on a smaller trailer/dolly to blast and prime
(https://i.imgur.com/L0c5PIO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AX4ZSPZ.jpg)
it’s in pretty decent shape. just going to blast and epoxy it and see what needs to be done.
it’s coming along. slowly but surely.
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so today.. i did a thing
(https://i.imgur.com/FV0Yf8I.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1hmfu8H.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YLKOsr9.jpg)
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What are those seat from?
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What are those seat from?
2018 high country Sierra or Silverado I believe
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What are those seat from?
correct turner. ‘18 high country. power, heated and cooled. anyone with a diagram on these.. feel free to chime in :beercheers:
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Should be fun....
I assume with seat memory? here's one of the switch and module:
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....
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Heating and cooling. Good luck with that. lol (runs through bcm).
You might be able to get a non-memory seat switch to make that part of the system basically one wire, but the heating cooling would require some brain power.
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Here's the non-memory diagram for the driver's seat. Single power wire
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so.. ive figured out the way to make the driver seat work. have to bypass the memory on pin 23 to allow it to work.
passenger is just hot and ground. moves all directions and to the fullest. so at least i have that.
i’ll try and see if i can get them working at some point. still a long way off. hahah.
any ideas if the motors/heaters are ground or power switched?
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Motors for cooling?
I have a hard time reading those new style schematics, but looks like the heating elements are pulse controlled.... probably to control temps.
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ive been doing some reading on these seats and it seems like the new ones utilize a peltier effect to heat and cool. like a heat pump. but liquid/gas less. i don’t know for sure. but that seems to be the consensus. so there is a blower motor that forces warm and cool air through the seat. but i can’t confirm that.
i’m glad the power works. heat would be nice. but all 3 would be AMAZING hahah
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I’ve read the same about the peltier method. The newer seats don’t actually cool, they just ventilate. The cooling has to off-put the heat somewhere, and that somewhere is in to the back seat. I guess the rear passengers weren’t too keen on that.
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I’ve read the same about the peltier method. The newer seats don’t actually cool, they just ventilate. The cooling has to off-put the heat somewhere, and that somewhere is in to the back seat. I guess the rear passengers weren’t too keen on that.
couldn’t care less about the back seat. there’s a reason they’re in the back :evil:
and these have the back vent from what i can see.
maybe they’re not ‘18s. i wish i had a part number on the to know for sure.
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passenger side needed some work. came from a wrecked truck and the airbag deployed
before
(https://i.imgur.com/V75vaM6.jpg)
during
(https://i.imgur.com/eZQ18ql.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/O3blqdl.jpg)
came out pretty well i think.
now i have a full interior. once the rain stops (hahah) i’ll go p
drop both fronts and the console in.
ive considered cutting up a wrecked +’15 truck to pull the clips and holes that secure the seat to the floor and weld them in the appropriate places in the ‘89 3+3 floor pan. that way they install like factory.
thoughts?
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If they don't fully recline like many GM seats. There may be a collar you can remove from the lead screw. Did that on mine and both front seat fully recline now.
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passenger side needed some work. came from a wrecked truck and the airbag deployed
before
(https://i.imgur.com/V75vaM6.jpg)
during
(https://i.imgur.com/eZQ18ql.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/O3blqdl.jpg)
came out pretty well i think.
now i have a full interior. once the rain stops (hahah) i’ll go p
drop both fronts and the console in.
ive considered cutting up a wrecked +’15 truck to pull the clips and holes that secure the seat to the floor and weld them in the appropriate places in the ‘89 3+3 floor pan. that way they install like factory.
thoughts?
Do you have access to the donor? I feel like this is something you’d have already done and finished. Factory style mounting would be great. Yes, you should do this.
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I wouldn't go overboard with "OEM" mounting. Noone would care except you, (and the Hawaiian dude I guess) imo.
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I wouldn't go overboard with "OEM" mounting. Noone would care except you, (and the Hawaiian dude I guess) imo.
Just makes things easier. Our seat mounts in the dodge are 100% fabricobbled. And may need to be modified. Where as if you use something that is sort of direct fit, you shouldn’t need to modify it. My thought ms Atleast.
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(https://i.imgur.com/ZHTuhsE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8Cz4UXH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j1sIj3g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8SZBSRw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yOn0vrW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xvLbgKx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HgK6jcK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1gxItEL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ihE7DCh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MgGtG4b.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ma5BMpI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BQq1bnA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BJM9EE0.jpg)
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Nice work. That mount is solid.
I saw a Sub frame local and am tempted but need to get the Ridge going first.
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Just out of pure curiosity is that frame able to be lifted by two men?
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Man, I really don’t want to go this far...
But now you’ve got me thinking.
:facepalm:
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Just out of pure curiosity is that frame able to be lifted by two men?
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picked up. yes. for reference.. i’m 31 and fairly fit. my dad is 52 and has physically worked his whole life. we were able to pick it up with shoulder slings and walk it about 30yds to another set of saw horses. it was about all we could do. hahah
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Man, I really don’t want to go this far...
But now you’ve got me thinking.
:facepalm:
don’t do it. just build the drive train and swap it in. lol.
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If your going to do it, do it right!!
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That looks great!
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Very nice and well done. Any intent to box part or all of the frame?
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Aren't those frames a good .250"?