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Offline EL TATE

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EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« on: May 12, 2015, 01:49:27 PM »
I have been off the diesel train for a few years now, but am getting back on here PDQ. I have very little free time so this will be slooooow going, but I'm excited to dive back in. The wife surprised me a while back by trading in the 04 Yukon Denali and my 01 Pontiac Sunfire commuter POS while I was away training some of my distributors. She of course got herself a little something, (05 Passat 1.8L turbo). I took delivery this last Friday before mother's day after they finished doing the work she requested on it: new tailgate, color matched the fender flares, new rear bumper, (old one had been hit lightly, but ugly), media blasting and rust treatment and new undercoating sprayed on. It was missing the center console cup holder so I picked up that little guy off ebay for $40.00. I'm going to be doing new tires pretty soon as they are mis-matched and fairly worn out. I have a little white/blue smoke after longer freeway runs. Nothing visible when underway but after running warm for a while and then coming to an intersection so I'm expecting an injector job in my near future, but other than that it runs and sounds great, has plenty of power and looks like 1st tank is going to net me an avg of 18mpg, hand calculated of course.

So, who here has/had similar vehicles, what can I expect to deal with down the road, some positive stories as well as the nightmares are welcome. Looking forward to getting my hands dirty ;D
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Offline BobbyB

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2015, 01:58:54 PM »
I like it. I looked at one of those but they were asking WAYY to much.
So, Bobby...being the calculating trained warrior NCO that you are.  Take the appropriate action, Execute!
your standard grunt level CQB is just putting rounds and rounds on scary stuff till it stops scaring you!

Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2015, 02:30:10 PM »
Do the EGR-block, pump rub and pvc reroute asap.

Use the very best filters (like the napa gold/wix) and have a 1 micron bypass setup.

Looks good, how many miles?
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2015, 02:43:12 PM »
He might be lucky and not have an EGR...

Found this on another site:
Look in your glove box for one of these codes. The table below should help to decipher what you have. CA was not the only one that had EGR.

YF5 is for the CA emissions
FE9 is Federal emissions with no EGR/CAT (NF4 federal emissions with EGR/CAT aka Clean Fuel Vehicle Fleet Emissions).
NE1 is Northeast emissions this covers MA, ME, NY and/or VT. They have adopted the CA emissions package (some of these states opted in at different times, at least that is my understanding.)
VCL is Clean Fuel Vehicle Fleet emissions and also will have the CA emissions package.

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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2015, 05:18:51 PM »
Now that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for. I'll check the RPO codes tonight. Picking up Air and fuel filters this weekend as well as trans flush and oil change. I don't want to call it a "fluid change" and jinx myself. I heard something about the air horn intake swap, but I think that was in reference to an lly. This is an OH truck, so hopefully no EGR. Also, are there any bench tests for checking the oil for fuel in the case of bad injectors? Something about double rings on a paper towel? It has 238k on it. paid $12k. well, actually just traded in the denali, paid $2k in negative value and my payments are the same as before.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2015, 05:48:36 PM »
Looks like no EGR for me, but that G80 is going to have to come out! Any other cool codes popping out at anyone that I should be aware of? Or is there a website where these codes can be deciphered?

found it: http://www.marshu.com/images-website/car/gm-firebird-camaro-rpo-car-door-manufacturer-codes/gm-firebird-camaro-GM-RPO-car-codes.pdf
« Last Edit: May 12, 2015, 05:53:32 PM by EL TATE »
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Offline cudakidd53

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2015, 05:58:55 PM »
Nice truck Tate, and an even nicer wife!  Sent mine to look at trucks once while on trip in Minnesota- all I got was "I like Chevy's seats the best" and "they cost a lot" and "no Diesels"........does Mrs. Tate run a seminar for women on "how to take care of your husband" or anything similar?  -LOL
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2015, 06:07:06 PM »
She's a keeper that's for sure. She nixed the original LMM I was driving for a while when economy dictated, but to be honest it was the right move. Now she felt like we could handle the costs better and I trust her judgment there; her mother was the fiscal specialist for the UW for 27 years.
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2015, 06:16:14 PM »
Do you have a scan tool that you could check the balance rates with? That would be an easy first diagnosis on the injectors. There's a couple methods for cleaning the injectors that may buy you some time.

Saving some of the oil when you change and sending off to blackstone would be a good idea too, i think it's like 25 bucks and they'll point out any abnormalities in the impurity levels in your oil... fuel being one i believe. They also look for coolant, and other metal particulate.
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Offline Flyin6

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2015, 08:50:14 PM »
Nice find

It may be far off, but the LBZ heads/injectors swap in there pretty easily I hear.

I haven't heard a lot of good news about the LB7 injector. Neighbor had a 01 LB-7 and he was constantly replacing injectors in it.

Other than that, it should be a tank
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2015, 09:33:39 PM »
Tate!  Congratulations man!  You are blessed to have an 03, which has the newer communication protocol for the ECM/BCM/FICM.  That means that you could literally swap in an LLY complete and do an emergency relearn on the computer and drive away.  Or swap the heads and FICM to an LLY.

I, on the other hand have a 2001 which mean no bueno on the swap.  I have to change heads and rewire the harness to accommodate the LLY injectors (which get run off the LB7 FICM)

The original injector style was prone to cracks.  The updated re manufactured style does not have that problem.  Once the originals are replaced with the updated style (never, ever ever ever use anything other than Bosch OEM reman) you should be good to go for 100K plus as long as you keep the fuel well filtered.

And yes, you can drop oil on a paper towel and if it produces 2 rings you have fuel in the oil (the fuel is thinner so it spreads out in the paper further).  Also, if you drain out more oil than you put in...that's another clue.  Have a dealer run your VIN and see if the injectors were ever replaced under warranty.

Nice truck!
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Offline Sammconn

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2015, 10:44:44 PM »
Yes the paper towel test will tell you. Like RN said you will get two distinct rings if there is fuel in the oil. Oil will stay black-ish, and the fuel will be more like tea. If that makes any sense.
Nice looking truck too dfinitely a keeper on both counts.
I just don't want to wind up missing a digit or limb.  I can sometimes get in a hurry to get results.
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2015, 11:12:07 PM »
For the geek in you... this will tell you about the comms protocol for the 01-02 versus the 03-07

http://duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=595459&postcount=8
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Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2015, 12:06:50 AM »
If they changed the injector you are good to go as they were upgraded to fix the problem.

Changing out the rear should be a non issue for you, but if you need a carrier let me know my new rear is open and the Truetrac will leave it collecting dust.

If you stay with stock size tires, look at the Coopers or Yoko Geolanders.

Check the tcase for sure, my was puking fluid all over at 95k. Did the JB to get by until I lift it and go through a few more things. My brakes were fine at 110k, even the rotors.

I use a sandwich type adapter that runs small lines to a Amsoil filter. I can't recall the name right now but was around $100 with a filter!

Oh, and get a Fumoto drain valve!!!
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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2015, 08:15:28 AM »
Nice truck man...it needs some Border patrol bead locks LoL


Offline Nate

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2015, 10:12:06 AM »
For the geek in you... this will tell you about the comms protocol for the 01-02 versus the 03-07

http://duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=595459&postcount=8

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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2015, 02:00:48 PM »
Nice find

It may be far off, but the LBZ heads/injectors swap in there pretty easily I hear.

I haven't heard a lot of good news about the LB7 injector. Neighbor had a 01 LB-7 and he was constantly replacing injectors in it.

Other than that, it should be a tank

Did some VIN# checking and determined it has been 100% updated in regards to any recalls, and injectors were replaced at 110k in '06 under warranty. I'm planning on running either some Power Service Diesel Kleen or Howe's to see if cleaning it up a bit internally takes care of my intermittent smoking issue. it's bluish white, and doesn't happen all the time which to me points to an injector or two "sometimes" sticking. Anyone had any experience, issues, with either of those additives?
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2015, 02:15:51 PM »
I run Diesel Kleen religiously in every tank. Can get it on amazon pretty cheap for a gallon, and then i just fill a 6 pack of 6 oz (or 8oz, can't remember) bottles i also got on amazon and keep in my truck box. DK, Stanadyne, and Optilube seem to be the favorites.

Good to hear the injectors were replaced once under warranty.

There are some DIY things you can do if you're experiencing some hazing/smoking. In addition to fuel additives, there's some injector cleaning procedures that a lot of people have had good luck with. Here's a link to a how to from DF, tons of posts to read through in regards to this procdure  http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/83493-how-diy-injector-cleaning.html

I've heard of others dumping a bottle of ATF or 2stroke oil into their tank, but I think the procedure above is prob a better bet, IMO.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2015, 04:15:08 PM »
That is a pretty slick idea on running the cleaner through it like that. I'll update as I get the map done and run a tank with the Howe's conditioner as well. Thanks for all the info/ideas, I'm going to be towing over the cascades this memorial day weekend and will give updates on that as well.
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2015, 04:30:53 PM »
Awesome... I know that drive well. All our favorite camping spots are over there.

Keep us updated on your progress and results!
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2015, 09:15:27 PM »
Nice find

It may be far off, but the LBZ heads/injectors swap in there pretty easily I hear.

I haven't heard a lot of good news about the LB7 injector. Neighbor had a 01 LB-7 and he was constantly replacing injectors in it.

Other than that, it should be a tank

Did some VIN# checking and determined it has been 100% updated in regards to any recalls, and injectors were replaced at 110k in '06 under warranty. I'm planning on running either some Power Service Diesel Kleen or Howe's to see if cleaning it up a bit internally takes care of my intermittent smoking issue. it's bluish white, and doesn't happen all the time which to me points to an injector or two "sometimes" sticking. Anyone had any experience, issues, with either of those additives?

Glad to hear on the injectors.  Get a lift pump and extra filtration when you can.  I run Nicktane 1micron on the filter head and 7micron and water separator on the lift pump. 

I run stanadyne, but frankly think any quality additive on a regular basis is fine.  Unless you get sub zero temps, which I don't.
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Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2015, 04:41:20 AM »
I run Diesel Clean sometimes, but always something. Since we all went to ULSD I run 2 stroke oil most of he time (lots of feedback on tests in the forums) from wally. Lift pump (since the system is suction) and a Cat 049 filter up top with a 5 micron below. 112K with no issues.

I do have a leak somewhere though as I loose prime time to time. Starts right up, then dies. Already did the primer rebuild so must be downstream someplace.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #22 on: May 14, 2015, 12:29:06 PM »
Ironically I got to experience several 1sts yesterday. Remembered somewhere on the Duramax forum some posts about the DIC and fuel levels and something I didn't pay much attention to, shortly after coasting to a stop on the side of the hwy. The DIC lied to me. Told me I had 61 miles to empty. Told me I was cool, and doing fine. I think the DIC lies to make friends. He's not really mal-intentioned, but doesn't realize the chaos he causes.

several things learned:
Diesel gets everywhere, even when you're super careful, especially when it's raining.
There are TWO bleeder valves on the fuel system.
Knowing there are TWO bleeder valves on the system allow for ones forearms to be much less fatigued.
I will never drop below 1/4 tank, ever, again.

Lift pump is the next item on the check list. during that installation, a very careful and thorough check of the entire fuel line network will be performed to inspect for leaks and potential leaks.

Also, check engine light came on this AM; is this normal after running out of fuel due to residual air in the system? i'll be checking the codes at lunch, but thought I'd ask here as well.

Good times!
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #23 on: May 14, 2015, 12:33:25 PM »
I was only aware of 1 bleeder screw, on top of the fuel filter housing.

If you have the plastic one still, pick up an aluminum one from any of the vendors. The plastic ones strip/crack easily. I would swap out the plastic one, then throw it in your glove box/tool box as a spare, along with a spare filter and your WIF sensor wrench (order one of those too!).

I have not heard of the CEL coming on after fuel starvation... curious to know what code your threw.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2015, 12:46:45 PM »
there is a Schrader with a black plastic cap on it. looks like AC line, but it's fuel on the front passenger side of the motor near the air filter housing. I pumped the piss out of the primer bulb, rinsed and repeated, but when I hit that Schrader all sorts of air and foamed fuel came out. after I got bubble free fuel from the Schrader and a hard pump on the primer bulb it fired right up. had I known that from the get go I would have saved about 1/2 hour.

what is the WIF and why do I need to order a wrench, is it unique GM stuff?
« Last Edit: May 14, 2015, 06:52:24 PM by EL TATE »
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Offline Flyin6

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #25 on: May 14, 2015, 12:59:23 PM »
I think I did a writeup on my build thread over on Duramax Forums about diesel fuel additives.

The best by far is soybean derived oil found in some B20-B100 fuels. Nothing else comes close to the lubricity found in that bean. Lubricity, or the lack of it is the problem with the HPFP failures we are seeing everywhere, particularly in the 4 banger TDI VWs. Also in the 6.4L Ford using the CP4A HPFP.

The best additive you can buy for lubricity is Optilube XPD. I buy it in 5 gal pails. I have noted it reduces fuel mileage by a point to a point and a half. But the SCAR tests show virtually no wear occurring at the piston/bore interface in the HPFP.

The Cat filter seems the best. Air Dog bases need modification to run that filter. I detailed that as well in my D-Max build thread
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Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #26 on: May 14, 2015, 01:01:23 PM »
The wrench is not form GM but readily found on Ebay and diesel sites. It is only for the WIF valve on the bottom of the filter (I don't have 1 now) but still carry a wrench.

The sensor is tuff to get off as the filter will spin a lot before it comes loose (not always)

Your code should clear after a few cycles, but having a CTS will fix all that od a great gauge package.
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Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #27 on: May 14, 2015, 01:03:27 PM »
Funny talking about soy oil. I get a 5 gal bucket from Costco all the time for my fillups (notice I very). 5 gal into my 52 gal tank works very well.
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #28 on: May 14, 2015, 01:11:46 PM »
Sorry i meant WIF (water in fuel). Its the sensor at the bottom of the stock filter. It's plastic, so a specialty wrench prevents damage. They're cheap, i got mine from MadJack diesel.



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Offline moto123

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #29 on: May 14, 2015, 01:53:08 PM »
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it yet and assuming your truck is 4x4, there is a pump rub kit for the transfer case that is generally recommended to do.  I was planning to look into it but sold my truck to get the family hauler.  I had an 05 of basically the same truck.

Offline Nate

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #30 on: May 14, 2015, 03:06:32 PM »
Tate, the one on the front of the engine is not a bleed screw, it is where you hook up a pressure tester to check how much psi you have on the high pressure side.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #31 on: May 14, 2015, 04:54:03 PM »
P0341 crankshaft position sensor. Had a small hiccup when I started it up and then the code threw. Cleared it, no issues since. I'm thinking air in the line caused a misfire, slowing down the crankshaft causing the code. No issues since.
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #32 on: May 14, 2015, 05:28:37 PM »
Hope it stays that way...

If not, check your crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and connections. Sometimes those fail, or wires chafe/disconnect from harness, etc. In the worst case from what i've read, could be reluctor wheel coming loose... but i hope it's just a fluke from a misfire or something after your fuel filter change.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #33 on: May 18, 2015, 10:51:24 AM »
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it yet and assuming your truck is 4x4, there is a pump rub kit for the transfer case that is generally recommended to do.  I was planning to look into it but sold my truck to get the family hauler.  I had an 05 of basically the same truck.

That is the 1st major surgery I have planned:-) Did that on the Denali last year when I had the transmission rebuilt.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #34 on: May 18, 2015, 10:56:13 AM »
I think I did a writeup on my build thread over on Duramax Forums about diesel fuel additives.

The best by far is soybean derived oil found in some B20-B100 fuels. Nothing else comes close to the lubricity found in that bean. Lubricity, or the lack of it is the problem with the HPFP failures we are seeing everywhere, particularly in the 4 banger TDI VWs. Also in the 6.4L Ford using the CP4A HPFP.

The best additive you can buy for lubricity is Optilube XPD. I buy it in 5 gal pails. I have noted it reduces fuel mileage by a point to a point and a half. But the SCAR tests show virtually no wear occurring at the piston/bore interface in the HPFP.

The Cat filter seems the best. Air Dog bases need modification to run that filter. I detailed that as well in my D-Max build thread

That has been logged and stored in my noodle. Thanks Don.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #35 on: May 18, 2015, 10:59:07 AM »
Tate, the one on the front of the engine is not a bleed screw, it is where you hook up a pressure tester to check how much psi you have on the high pressure side.

Ah, that makes more sense. however it did facilitate the starting of said "run dry" truck, so I now dub it the "Multi-purpose fuel pressure/get crappy air out of the fuel" port.  ::)
« Last Edit: May 18, 2015, 11:10:19 AM by EL TATE »
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #36 on: May 18, 2015, 11:15:20 AM »
Hope it stays that way...

If not, check your crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and connections. Sometimes those fail, or wires chafe/disconnect from harness, etc. In the worst case from what i've read, could be reluctor wheel coming loose... but i hope it's just a fluke from a misfire or something after your fuel filter change.

Wiring looks clean, and for an OH truck, very little corrosion in the engine compartment. However I am now dealing with a 7 pin that lets the left blinker work, but has no power when the brakes are applied, left side only. I spent a couple hours last night chasing the wires back w/ a lead tester and can only say that the brake in continuity is beyond the harness coupling, so either the wrong wire's hooked in and the brake wire isn't even playing with us, or the short is somewhere between the ECM and the trailer harness. anyone ever experience this?

Left blinker works, brake light doesn't. running lights work.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #37 on: May 19, 2015, 10:14:17 AM »
Updated on the Trailering forum:

Turns out the truck originally had a 5th wheel hitch and an auxiliary wiring harness for trailering. This was unplugged from the main outlet at the bumper when the bumper was replaced and never re-connected. When I connected it, I assumed that it was the correct plug for the job but I was mistaken. 5 min into my stop at the shop they had me all fixed up. I MIGHT have somehow figured this out on my own but without the prior 5th wheel hitch conversation I doubt it. I probably would have chased the wiring back to the main harness and eventually pulled and re-wired the 7 pin out of frustration. Got lucky on this one.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #38 on: June 29, 2015, 01:42:09 PM »
A little preface:

I took my wife and the Tater tots camping this weekend over in Leavenworth, WA. From the west side of the cascade mtn range to the east side is a pretty steep climb, 4,062' in about 39 miles. Now the trailer is only 5600lbs and I don't carry water, so with full load I'm estimating around 6700 on a heavy trip.

Without running AC, and only cruising at 50 MPH, I overheated, badly... trans temp didn't get too high but I got all the way up to 260 before cresting, and as soon as I started down the other side it quickly dropped back down to 210, then a few minutes later it would seem that the thermostat finally opened up and it dropped down to around 180-190. Bear in mind it was in the high 90's during this trip, but there were other '06 and older duramax trucks passing me with toy haulers and 5th wheels like I was standing still.

I plan on following Nate's DIY and taking the stack apart to clean this week; it was an OH truck and I imagine there is some grime in there, but I also want to address any other issues that could be contributing here. I'm thinking thermostat based on the way it was behaving, but also radiator cap in case it was bleeding off pressure. Any thoughts here? Ken and Nate and Ash I know you guys are in the heat and towing heavy too. Daily driving NEVER replicates this scenario btw, even in heat with traffic.
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #39 on: June 29, 2015, 01:56:58 PM »
Did you hear the fan clutch engage? That would be the number one thing I would ask if you got to 260... It's pretty dang loud when you're pulling grade and the fan engages, you would definitely hear it unless you had music up pretty loud. Those things move a ton of air.

The only time I remember my fan kicked on on my LMM was coming up the same pass but the other way, coming up out of the Gorge towards Ellensburg. I started climbing temps to about 220-230 and then wham fan engaged and things cooled down in a hurry, even maintaining speed up the hill in scorching heat. Haven't pulled our trailer with my LBZ yet, so never had the fan engage when at operating temp.

Cleaning the stack is a good idea in an of itself, but probably isn't a 'fix' if you fan isn't kicking on, swapping thermo's maybe... But i think normally bad thermostats will prevent it from heating up, not restricting flow to the radiator to cool down. Ken can prob chime in here with better info on the thermos.

But if you didn't hear your fan kick on, you prob have a bad fan clutch...
« Last Edit: June 29, 2015, 01:58:20 PM by Dawg25385 »
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #40 on: June 29, 2015, 02:09:32 PM »
Fan kicked on and yes, very loudly. temp did not change when the fan kicked on though, and giving it more fuel seemed to speed up the overheating. so I dialed it back to 45-50 to keep it around 220-240 until I cleared the hill. on the way down the cool down was very quick. I'd say within 5 min I was back down to 210 and then a sudden drop to 180-190. And the fan kicked on occasionally during regular travel when it would get over 210 seemed to operate normally, but didn't seem to have much effect. An old timer told me a bad radiator cap could cause overheating, but I didn't have any coolant loss at all so I'm skeptical.

Feeling pretty stupid right now... considering the "radiator cap" doesn't exist.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2015, 04:45:31 PM by EL TATE »
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #41 on: June 29, 2015, 02:16:23 PM »
Well, fan kicking on is good. Sounds like a good stack cleaning is in your future...
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Offline KensAuto

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #42 on: June 29, 2015, 02:46:11 PM »
I would put the stack cleaning at the top of the list. You'll know when you take it apart, whether it's the problem or not.
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Offline Nate

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #43 on: June 29, 2015, 02:54:33 PM »
I would say a cleaning is definitely in need and you may want to look at changing out the fan clutch as well.  I have cleaned the stack, replaced both thermos, new cap and have even had new coolant flushed thru the entire system.  mine has been acting a bit funny as well and I am about at the point of changing the fan clutch and see what happens. 
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Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #44 on: June 29, 2015, 03:22:59 PM »
Last year when I towed my LBZ did the same thing. It was hot though in the 90s and pulling in the low foothills, but at highway speeds.

MY CTS lit up as the tranny was over 250 and the water temp was over 220. I simply backed down and it all went down fast, very fast.

Now even though I was moving good, traffic was bad so airflow may have been inhibited some. I don't recall what the fan did.

Normally I run about 150 for the trans and just under 200 for water.

I have had the EGR blocked since almost new and have Idaho Rob tuning with a DSP5, with both a heavy and lite tow tune, normal driving is a 100hp tune.
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Offline EL TATE

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #45 on: July 28, 2015, 06:31:25 PM »
Any ideas on why my ac compressor kicks on and off intermittently... when the AC is turned off?
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Offline Dawg25385

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #46 on: July 28, 2015, 06:40:14 PM »
Did you have it on defrost?
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Offline TexasRedNeck

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #47 on: July 28, 2015, 08:09:56 PM »
Tater, is your truck tuned at all or stock?


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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #48 on: July 28, 2015, 09:49:35 PM »
Any ideas on why my ac compressor kicks on and off intermittently... when the AC is turned off?
Yea, you probably have the windshield defroster on...That cycles the AC
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Offline JR

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Re: EL TATE'S 2003 LB7
« Reply #49 on: July 29, 2015, 02:13:33 AM »
I think it is built into the programming. Used to be when you ran the AC or used the defrost to keep the system working.

I just leave mine on auto all the time unless it is so nice I just want fresh air.
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