REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Maintenance, How to/DIY projects => Topic started by: Bigdave_185 on March 18, 2016, 05:11:09 PM
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Any mod can delete after its lost its use
My pup jumped into my truck yesterday and slipped his back leg through the step and fell backwards. Steps need to go! Dog vet bill could be way more then I want to pay.
What is needed to just simply remove the basic chrome tube steps?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Two bolts on each side for mine... Mine just slipped under the body mounts i think. Big ole bolts, had to use the Air gun.
Here you can get a look at the brackets that were on mine
(http://i.imgur.com/1QceVRl.jpg)
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Thank you. Came off just like you said.
Please delete post
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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No need to delete. Somebody else might have the same question at some point ;)
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While i was under I noticed my body mounts seemed pretty bad. What is involved in putting new pucks in between the frame and body?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Mine were the same way... Interested in this as well
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Easy
Loosen up all of them on say, the cab
Get a jack and a 2 X 6 and use that to gently push up one side a 1/2" or so after removing the bolts on that side. Clean the contact areas...I'd spray them with some of that liquid Graphite spray. I get mine at the tractor store. slide them home and bolt them down loosely, then repeat the procedure on the other side. 2 hr. job doing the whole truck.
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Recommended to get the factory bushings or if there aftermarket?
I ended up doing some major rust removal on my rear diff last night also. Then applied a rust inhibitor and Re sprayed it black today. I think that will be the project for the next few free Eve's. Need to clean a lot of frame sections too
I also noticed my leaf spring bushings are pretty toast too. Need to look at the cost and advantages and disadvantages of the rubber vs the silicone
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Use GM mounts. Not even sure you can get anything else on an 07..
...I also remember reading about replacing with updated hydraulic mounts (from a newer model, possibly LML?)to help with frame beaming on either the obs or LMM, icr which.
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Recommended to get the factory bushings or if there aftermarket?
I ended up doing some major rust removal on my rear diff last night also. Then applied a rust inhibitor and Re sprayed it black today. I think that will be the project for the next few free Eve's. Need to clean a lot of frame sections too
I also noticed my leaf spring bushings are pretty toast too. Need to look at the cost and advantages and disadvantages of the rubber vs the silicone
Raising boys into RealMen!!
I've looked at this a lot myself.
Frankly, for an everyday driver I think I'd stay with factory like rubber units made by OEM or someone like Moog. There is significant research into the exact durometer of rubber and formulation to give a decent lifespan to the things. Poly bushings need lubricant. Even the onew with so called silicone impregnation squeak. Rubber does not do that. THe tiny bit of deflection a rubber bushing allows vs a poly bushing would only be noticed on an autocross track and not in a daily driven 3-4 ton truck.
My thoughts: Stay rubber.
I know I used poly with the Square project, but I couldn't find the rubber body mounts that weren't China made (read: bad rubber)
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That's makes sense.
I have removed one set of bushings from leaf springs in my life. I used a lot of swearing and more hammer then I felt it should have.
Ideas after looking at it
1. Fire
2. Pull leaves out and use a press
3. Use a sawzall and cut sections out
4. Get with atlas and get some military wrapped new leaves and call it a day.
5. ?
6. ?
Other ideas?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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That's makes sense.
I have removed one set of bushings from leaf springs in my life. I used a lot of swearing and more hammer then I felt it should have.
Ideas after looking at it
1. Fire
2. Pull leaves out and use a press
3. Use a sawzall and cut sections out
4. Get with atlas and get some military wrapped new leaves and call it a day.
5. ?
6. ?
Other ideas?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
Well, pressing them out is easiest I think.
Some bushings have a flared end. You can grind that part of the bushing shell off then squirt a liberal amount of penetrating oil and press away.
The fire method could mess with the molecular alignment of the steels...
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As stated stay with rubber can mounts. They absorb road vibration better than poly. A ball joint press you rent from the parts store will fix your spring bushings.
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Dave let me know where you order from. I might follow suit
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Tex how would you use the ball joint press
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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It's a big c clamp. A hollow cup on on end to receive the bushing and the screw side pressing on the bushing. No different than using them to press an a arm bushing.
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It's a big c clamp. A hollow cup on on end to receive the bushing and the screw side pressing on the bushing. No different than using them to press an a arm bushing.
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Maybe that is my ticket.
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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ok, can someone help me get with Mr Tate either a PM or talk him into chiming in on this, i think i am going to go forward and do the seal my self, i am going to look at ordering the bushings for the cab on the intrawebs.
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Bushing's I don't have there BD. Seals I have in spades, but I missed what you were looking for? PM or email me direct. bhudson@ringpinion.com
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Email sent EL Tate, the bushings I'll get of the net
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Ok. Watching videos tonight I noticed a special GM tool for the large axle nut. Can that be rented at a local parts shop?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Working on the rear? Not sure if you can rent one, but here's a couple options (the OTC is a much better tool):
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648475-Spindle-Socket-Outer/dp/B0015UWW64
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Locknut-Socket-point-Opening/dp/B000XSGKXA
...of course, before I started charging people for my services (read:shadetree), it was a common practice to just use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer, and it worked just fine....I'm sure Norm will vouch for me on that one.
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How do you know what size it is?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Pretty sure all 14 bolt GMs are the same, and those 2 I linked to, are for 14 bolt diffs, just 2 differently designed sockets (the good one has a sleeve/guide that fits inside the tube) .
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http://smile.amazon.com/OTC-Locknut-Socket-point-Opening/dp/B000XSGKXA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01
The one I just used on my LB7. Works great because of the inner pipe part that rides in the housing, keeping it aligned.
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What brand brake rotors and pads did you buy Tex?
Would I be wrong to replace only one side parking brake set? Or do I need to do both ?
Rotors ? Are the worth turning down?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Dave,
OEM on the pads and rotors. And I mean OEM not the AC Delco professional garbage.
Best deal on the rear pads I found was from Golden Gate Auto Parts off eBay 171-626 is the OE part number. About $92
Rotors I bought off Amazon 177-861 About $70 shipped on Prime.
http://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-177-861-Original-Equipment-Brake/dp/B000C9H7BE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
Ebrake shoes are cheap. I just got whatever the local parts store had.
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Rotors are not worth turning. There is just not that much meat before min thickness.
park brakes come both sides so might as well do both. Not that hard. Dont be like me and mangle a spring trying to undo them on the backing plate. Take the retaining pins off and then remove them in tact and manipulate the springs off once on the bench. Same for replacement. Just assemble then pin and stretch over the actuator
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You don't buy into the hype of slotted or drilled rotors?
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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not on these. Stock pads and rotors lasting well over 100K are just fine. I especially would not do drilled. Heat buildup of a heavy vehicle under hard braking has led to cracks from the drilled areas
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x2 on this. Working for Les Schwab tires for years, I saw MOST cross drilled rotors crack unless they were on little Hondas. Vented rotors are good for dissipating heat, but I've seen them warp more often than not, and they squeal like the dickens. the hardness of the metal on OE and corresponding pad composition of OE seems to be the perfect storm for "last forever" brakes IMO