REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => Build Threads => Topic started by: Flyin6 on November 16, 2020, 07:28:16 PM
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Hello everyone my dad and I just bought my first truck
Its a 2007 1500 chevy silverado vortex max 4wd
Blue exterior, some rust, leather interior, 6.0 all aluminum LS engine 4L70 transmission, 14 bolt rear axle, 4.10
Well since this is my first ever truck I am extremely happy to have it and to work on it with my dad.
My plans with it are to clean it up first then fix the rust and paint it
Dad has a bunch of engine stuff we will bolt on to renew the engine somewhat since it has 265,000 miles on it.
But mainly i just want to enjoy working on it
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Dad here...
The kiddo was/is really excited to see it and go through the buying decision. He found it on line where it had been posted less than a day ago. After looking after the add, we decided to go right away to look at it.
It has a couple of dents in it, and the rockers both have rust holes. I wanted a project for us to work on together, so this looks about right. I figure I'll let him clean and tweak here and there until Christmas, then see what Santa may bring for him that could fit the thing. After that, we will get in on the body work and finish with a full repaint back to the factory color.
Since the motor has 265K I would like to get a new timing chain in there so while I have it apart, I'll toss in thet high torque cam I once had in the Burb. That, and a tune, and some headers and an exhaust and I'll get Nick to tune it and that should net us another 100 HP and that will be good enough
The previous owner put 2018 Silvy aluminum wheels on it and just tossed on a set of new 33" off road tires. The motor sounds good, has zero blowby and no ticking.
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It has a 2" front lift spacer and brand new air bags in the rear.
We will post pics up as we get the thing turned around and headed in the right direction
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Cool truck
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Wow!! Love it. The extended cab is perfect for a young lad
Now motor, thought we were going to pull the burb motor anc swap and d max in it which frees up that old tired 6.2 you have in it right?
Have you ever seen someone boat side a jeep? I’d like to try replacing the lower rockers with a 2x6 tube and welding it in place along the while cab leaving 2 “ out to act as rock sliders. One day?
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Nice ride there, pre-Ranger. Looking forward to detailed updates.
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Good looking truck pre range please keep us posted as you take care of it
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Very nice truck and congrats! Great project for father and son. Good times. :likebutton: :popcorn:
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Nice truck.
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I got the thing paid for, registered and insured today.
Went over and picked it up. Pre-Ranger drove it home. He got the first drive, not me.
We went over the thing some before football practice to formulate a base plan. He will start with a massive cleaning of every square inch of the thing, then go from there.
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So which pre-ranger are we talking about here...#1 or #2 (i believe he has a biblical name very similar to mine)? I am thinking #2, because if my failing memory is correct...#1 got a newer canyon?????
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And my wife questioned why i need a bigger shop....I said by the time both girls are driving I’ll have a fleet to maintain.....
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Thats nice. My first car was a 73 Impala. We could pack 10 people in it easy. I bet He can probably fit 7 or 8 of his friends in there.
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Thats nice. My first car was a 73 Impala. We could pack 10 people in it easy. I bet He can probably fit 7 or 8 of his friends in there.
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Nice acquisition there! Don't forget about the bed Jon, he can get 10 more easy with no issues since they're in the Tuk!
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So which pre-ranger are we talking about here...#1 or #2 (i believe he has a biblical name very similar to mine)? I am thinking #2, because if my failing memory is correct...#1 got a newer canyon?????
Korrekt Comrad!
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Thats nice. My first car was a 73 Impala. We could pack 10 people in it easy. I bet He can probably fit 7 or 8 of his friends in there.
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Nice acquisition there! Don't forget about the bed Jon, he can get 10 more easy with no issues since they're in the Tuk!
See you're not thinking kler! What bout the roof and hood? Another 4-5 for sure
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I guess I'm writing this up for Pre-Ranger. He is off to practice tacklin' stuff.
Today was an all day effort cleaning the interior. We also tested and charged the battery, which was already in great shape, but I topped it off. The interior was scrubbed with cleaners and a brush forever, but all that elbow grease yielded upholstery which was in pretty good shape
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It has a squealing left rear brake and I suspect a dragging caliper. The wheel was pretty dirty so it is wearing more than the others. SO looks like job 1 will be brakes. Speaking of wheels, I touched one up with simple wheel cleaner and found a pretty stock 2017 or 2018 silverado wheel hiding out
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Motor tomorrow. Soaking then power washing along with the underside all the way back
Funny, but I never even noticed the tool box. Pre-Ranger says it stays...OK then.
We also got a matching topper which the kiddo does not want to install.
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When you say topper. Do you mean shell or flat cover?
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When you say topper. Do you mean shell or flat cover?
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Shell, fiberglass
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I really do like mine, until it’s time to install or take off.
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My recommendation would be to sell that tool box and the shell.....and go with one of these setups (they do have tool boxes as well)
https://diamondbackcovers.com
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Kids dont want some grandpa topper. How is he supposed fill the back with water and drive the bikini girls around in the mobile swimming pool.
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Pretty nice first vehicle!
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My recommendation would be to sell that tool box and the shell.....and go with one of these setups (they do have tool boxes as well)
https://diamondbackcovers.com
Nate, I like that
Pre-Ranger wants to keep tool box, and sell or give away the topper. He has $12 to his name. Gets paid $10 an hour to shovel horse manure out of stalls nearby or $10 an hour from his dad to do about the same.
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Pretty nice first vehicle!
Has rusty rockers and a few dents. Has 265,000 miles but it rides great and that thing has a ton of power. I never drove a Vortex-Max before but that L78 is a lot more spunky than the LQ4
We handed over $6,800 for it. Maybe a bit high, but it looked "right."
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Very nice first ride. Dad knows about upgrading vehicles well, called "fluid changes".
Will you get your own name on here or live under dads for awhile.
By the way, vacuums are great but try compressed air too, it will surprise you!
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Yank those front seats and clean under them. Bet you find $5 in change and a few French fries.....
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Nice truck. Good luck with the fluid change.
You’ll also find a couple cheezies, a handful of pistachios and maybe the keys and knife you lost.
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Or one step further, pull the carpet and install the sound deadening stuff. Plus remove the extra 80 pounds of sand always found under the carpet
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Complete bumper to bumper degreasing and pressure wash...Yuck
Followed up with an oil change. Decided to use high mileage Castrol 5W-30 and this time (Was on sale) STP oil filter saved $8 over a new AC-Delco.
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I tried to get the knucklehead to post up some of his work progress, but he hasn't managed much so far.
We discovered a power steering leak issue which will need to get resolved. That and the rear brakes has what looks like a possible sticking caliper. Therefore I can see Santa lugging some heavy parts down the chimney in a couple days.
We did manage to swap out the factory muffler for the magna-flow unit that I just removed from the Burb
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Then I popped on a little exhaust turn down to serve until we decide to do differently or not.
With the stock exhaust manifolds and cats intact, it is pretty quiet with this muffler.
We did however start to notice the very annoying drone when the thing goes into V4 mode
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Next we removed on each horrible spare tire which was held in place with a ratchet strap since the factory winch cable had failed. We discarded all that mess which opened up the rear to get after with a bunch more cleaning
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Shocks and rust need some addressing for sure.
Tune that V4 out!!
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Who would like to sign their name to the exhaust weld lol
Iv always like the sound of that 5.3 v8 with a muffler
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Who would like to sign their name to the exhaust weld lol
Iv always like the sound of that 5.3 v8 with a muffler
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Not a 5.3, this is a higher compression L76 6.0
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Pre-Ranger has come in at night past two days totally black from grinding. He has a wire cup grinder and is going after the frame at the moment. Plans are to get all the scale rust off and a coat of undercoating installed to protect the metal.
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:likebutton:
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That’s nothing.
I need to decide how crazy I’m going when I swap boxes in my truck.
No paint left anywhere...
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Don, I’m really impressed with this chassis saver.
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Don, I’m really impressed with this chassis saver.
Which one???
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Don, I’m really impressed with this chassis saver.
Which one???
https://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
I used the middle can in picture and mopped it on the bottom side of the flatbed. Napa sells it, not cheap but I like it.
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New rear brakes yesterday
Surprisingly, it all came off pretty easily.
I am not used to these 1/2 ton small parts. Mucho easier than the big 1-ton stuff I always play with
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Nice, hope what I'm about to tackle goes pretty easy,,,,,,,,rear bearings/brakes.
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Nice, hope what I'm about to tackle goes pretty easy,,,,,,,,rear bearings/brakes.
Pray first!
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nice first ride... gonna mount the spare in the bed then?
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nice first ride... gonna mount the spare in the bed then?
Hey Norm...
Naw, he wants to stay near stock
Can't imagine why he feels like that!
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Thats the younger pre rangers right? Cause i thought you got the older one a colorado or something like that?
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Thats the younger pre rangers right? Cause i thought you got the older one a colorado or something like that?
Korrekt
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So, today was the next project.
The truck will lose oil pressure after a short warm up followed by a short drive of approximately one mile.
Whereas it idles when cold at around 40 psi, the pressure will slowly decrease, eventually touching zero.
And I know I have written about this before.
So thinking it was the oil pressure sender oil screen, we went after that and that turned out to be more than just unscrewing the oil pressure sensor in the back of the top of the block, beneath the cowl, and the sound proofing, and the wiring harness, and of course the intake manifold and the fuel lines...:Let me see, did I leave anything out???
So we pulled the alternator, and the intake along with the air inlet pipe and disconnected parts of the wiring harness and the fuel line, oh and the injector manifold on the passenger side.
Then and only then, could I get a glimpse of the suspect oil pressure switch. Using a deep well 1 1/16" (27mm) socket, and a bunch of wobble extensions and a swivel, I got that out. Then I used a pic to fish out the little oil screen. It fell into a parallel universe somewhere forward of my FOV and I never did get a look at it.
But Haleigh, We got the darned thing replaced and the motor pulled back together.
After starting up, it did perform better with respect to oil pressure. After warming and driving it never fell below 5-7psi and could be revved to get about 19psi.
So what I think is that the screen on this 265K LS L76 engine was suffering from a clogged oil screen, but, alas, I think the oil pump pickup tube O-ring is also defective mandating a future visit to the inside of the motor...Ya...
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Pre-Ranger is considering a plan involving a DOD delete, that old torque cam of mine, redoing the heads and so forth...
Meanwhile, he found a leaking PS line which is the focus today, to get that replaced.
Cam specs:
DUR @ .050" 210*/218*
LIFT .552 / .552
LSA 114*
4A
More, much more to come...
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Put a mech gauge on the oil to check before you rip into it more. GMs are known for gauges to be way off.
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I would bet on the o-ring, but being a DOD/AFM engine, it makes it extremely difficult to know for sure, but, I always start with the cheapest and the o-ring job is that. Be sure to replace the pressure release valve while you have the pan off. (Little thingy above the oil filter, inside the pan). I've seen a couple of those hung open. ... even if it tests good with a blow gun replace it.
It's part of the AFM system so you can plug it off if he deletes it.
..but if he doesn't delete it, find a screen and put it back under the sender if you don't want to cause a stuck lifter! (It's not just a filter for the sender)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210702/e532ef9e207c40cbfa3b5b35bbb2b3f1.jpg)
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Thanks Ken!
So plan is do the full delete
Will be ordering:
Z06 lifters
Pushrods
Timing set
gaskets
delete metal plugs
Oil pump
head bolts
Did I say headers...??? ;-))
and we will send those rectangle port heads off to the shop to get the valves reground, new guides/seals and new valve springs.
He will clean up and repaint everything in the engine bay before reassembly
That should make for a good semi-rebuild of the engine and a good start to getting the truck reliable
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Yesterday, we searched and found the power steering fluid leak, a defective line. We replaced that, flushed the system and power washed everything out.
Cool part: I had those caliper cores from the recent rear brake job which I took back to Kentucky motors. e purchased a new federated parts PS pressure line, fluid and some JB weld and they gave me all that and credited my account $63!
Pre-Ranger was ecstatic!
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If your going that far, why not do the pump rub fix on the x-case....(that is if its a 2007 old bidy style)?
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If your going that far, why not do the pump rub fix on the x-case....(that is if its a 2007 old bidy style)?
Maybe later...What we are addressing is all engine centric.
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Here's a couple pics I took today of the new line installed, and the modified air intake pipe. I simply took the stock one, cut off the three bulbous echo chambers that trash stuff up, epoxied in some block off plates and reinstalled. Still need to attach PCV tube
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Well, pre-ranger said he may not be up for doing the cam and heads. Fears it may not be reliable and that it will cost him all his hard earned $$$. After three weeks of hard work washing trucks he had added $1100ish to his account. When he realized it will likely cost him north of that to get all this done, he shied away, and I do not blame him.
He asked me if I could just help him replace the O-ring on the oil pump and he would try just driving it. So for the past two days we have been dropping a front differential, Steering rack, sway bar, cross-member, and unbolting things that are buried under a half inch of sludge...No fun at all.
But today, we did manage to get the pan off and got the O-ring replaced. Small victory. He cleaned up the pan but had to leave for football practice before we could bolt it back on
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I do not like working on greasy, nasty cars
But
I do like working with my boy and sharing time with him :likebutton:
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:likebutton:
That is a lot of coin. If it drives and has the power he likes, fine.
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:likebutton:
That is a lot of coin. If it drives and has the power he likes, fine.
I agree. And I do not want him to have 400+HP under his foot just yet
Oil pan cleaned and ready to reassemble. I guess I'll rivet the pan gasket on there just like Chevy did
I did give the oil filter pressure relief valve two taps like is recommended in the build threads. Raises oil pressure 10 psi or so.
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I do not like working on greasy, nasty cars
But
I do like working with my boy and sharing time with him :likebutton:
Hear hear! I usually run them to the pay-n-spray and power wash what I can 1st. spending time with the boy does make up for it though. especially w/ the other'n off doing Armee stuff.
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I do not like working on greasy, nasty cars
But
I do like working with my boy and sharing time with him :likebutton:
Hear hear! I usually run them to the pay-n-spray and power wash what I can 1st. spending time with the boy does make up for it though. especially w/ the other'n off doing Armee stuff.
Copy that!
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Spending time with kids is the best time spent
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Well, that didn't work!
This kid is getting beat up! First the oil screen and all that work did nothing to fix the issue.
Next, we did quite a bit of work replacing this oil ring. We had to drop the diff, the steering rack and the sway bar. Two of the bolts on the sway bar broke and we are in the process of drilling them out, and that sucks.
With six fresh quarts and a start and warm up this was the story:
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So, we have several ways to go on this.
First it may be the pressure sending unit, although I have never seen one act in this manner
Second, we could have a gage problem. We check that with a cheapo oil pressure gage
Next, it gets ugly, but it could be an oil pressure pump.
As the oil gets hot (and thinner) the pressure falls away. No longer to zero, but down to 5-6psi at idle, hot.
Now one of the arguments against that is that by tapping the oil filter pressure relief valve, I should have increased pressure everywhere, but it behaved almost exactly like it did before the O-ring replacement.
Finally we could have something inside the engine, like a cam bearing. These motors will wear out a cam bearing and that will bleed off oil pressure to be sure.
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without a garage to do my own work in, i dropped 1200 at a shop on the wifes Yukon 6.0 only to find the cam bearing was the issue and the motor was smoked. hope that's not the case here sir.
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What weight of oil are you using?
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Put a manual gauge on it, only way to know for sure.
If you code reader, many will let you see the oil pressure. Don't you have a CST on your truck? Might work to check this?
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Thought you changed the sender?
Did you at least blow through the relief valve to make sure it wasn't stuck open?
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Thought you changed the sender?
Did you at least blow through the relief valve to make sure it wasn't stuck open?
I sprayed brake cleaner all through it Ken.
But the pressure slowly lowers from near 40 to near zero over maybe 10 minutes of run time...Not right away like something that failed. I am starting to think it is the cam bearings thing. Oil thins as it warms up and starts to slip out of the bigger clearances between the cam and bushing.
Did a dive into this. Chevy opened up the clearances of the cam bushings...Has to do with freeing up HP. I noticed one can purchase cam bushings in a +1 sizing, for .001" smaller ID to account for this additional clearance.
I'll take my HP tuners app and pull the codes from this truck to see if there are any voltage issues with the oil press sending unit. Lacking that, options are getting thin.
Tex: 10W-30
JR: No scanner. Kids truck, not mine. But a hard plumbed oil press gage is a looming possibility
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Something stuck open has the same affect on oil pressure as something worn out.
AFM manifold would be my next play, before cam bearings. That is, if you're gauge is accurate.
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Isn’t there a screen behind the oil pressure sender? Could that be getting clogged up as it warms up reducing the measured pressure too,? If you are going to check the sensor, could check that at the same time.
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Isn’t there a screen behind the oil pressure sender? Could that be getting clogged up as it warms up reducing the measured pressure too,? If you are going to check the sensor, could check that at the same time.
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Replaced it already (in an earlier posting)
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Something stuck open has the same affect on oil pressure as something worn out.
AFM manifold would be my next play, before cam bearings. That is, if you're gauge is accurate.
AFM mani...hmmm
Kind of like filtered cigarettes...Filter doesn't matter because the cigs kill you anyway
Ya, not going there
But what if I just plug all the oil ports in those pedestals? Someone makes some steel plugs you just hammer in that blocks off oil flow. Would that work?
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20-50. On a high mileage engine. Jus sayin
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Might have to, but, if those cam bushings are shot, that will not help.
Just went out and picked up a new oil pressure sending unit. Guess I'll try that next.
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I hear they are known for going bad, hopefully!
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Something stuck open has the same affect on oil pressure as something worn out.
AFM manifold would be my next play, before cam bearings. That is, if you're gauge is accurate.
AFM mani...hmmm
Kind of like filtered cigarettes...Filter doesn't matter because the cigs kill you anyway
Ya, not going there
But what if I just plug all the oil ports in those pedestals? Someone makes some steel plugs you just hammer in that blocks off oil flow. Would that work?
Don't know. I've never tried that. I have only disabled one AFM truck (6.0 max) and bought a kit from Texas Speed that came with a blank aluminum plate that blocked off everything, and a conventional cam and lifter set. Of course the DOD had to be tuned out as well.
Just to give a perspective of what I've seen fail, which may very between shops and locations (hotter temps =lower viscosity)....
Average 1- 2 oil pump o-rings a month. Usually accompanied by fluctuating, and falling pressure, most of the time ticking lifters because of the air intrusion. If this persists, can lead to cam bearing failure. So, on the low end 12/year, a couple hundred since I started seeing LS trucks in the shop.
I remember 1 AFM that we did the o-ring on (it was cracked), fixed erratic gauge but still had low pressure, did the AFM manifold (didn't fix) then took the pan back off and changed the relief valve. That was a learning experience.
So now I don't pull an AFM pan without changing that valve, even if we're just taking the pan off to fix leaks.
We've done 4 or 5 AFM manifolds since then (only after doing the o-rings). ...Actually doing an AFM lifter job right now because he kept running it with a bad o-ring.
..and finally, I've had 3 come in that ended up being cam bearings (in the last 16 years) 2 were 6.0 non AFM work trucks with bad o-rings and horrible service history and over 200k. The 3rd was a non AFM 5.3. That one was just absolutely nasty.
Don't know if that means anything, just thought I'd share some thoughts.
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Thanks Ken,
So I replaced that oil pressure sender yesterday.
After watching a YouTube where a guy did it without removing the intake, I collected the proper tools and did it. It is one painful job to say the least. Climbing up into the engine bay: Difficult. Reaching around the intake: Very difficult. Working your hand in there to reseat the new sender and hook back up the wire: Absolutely painful. I still have marks on my arm this morning.
So, ya, we are getting to that point where he is questioning keeping it.
Now I will say, the pressure no longer goes to zero. This one now settles on around 5 psi after around 10 min of idling and some revving, which although bad, is better than before. So that has me wondering. Since the oil pressure switch made no difference, the screen below it made no difference, the Oil pump pickup O-ring was noted to be intact before we replaced that, the only other thing I did was to tap the oil filter pressure relief valve. Tapping it will add 5-10 psi to the system I am told, and that's what I am seeing, I think. So that would tell me that that device is working.
That would leave the AFM mani or the cam bushings or the oil pump as the only other likely culprits.
I was thinking I could pull that valley cover, plug the oil ports in the block with those stainless steel pills that tap into the holes and go with that, well, along with deprogramming the AFM/DOD. Pre-Ranger says sell it though, so its a tough sale.
I prefer the devil I know over one I have to pay to learn. Rusty as it is, as many miles as it has, with everything aged, old trans, old rear axle and so forth, If we press forward and just fix this one, I'll have a rusty old vehicle with a new engine, new brakes, new steering, new battery, new LCA, new UCA, new flex brake lines, and who knows what else. he past owner and we have been quite busy replacing things on this truck...
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Don, can’t remember if you said you checked it or not. Have you verified the gauge is working as expected? I’d hate for your son to get rid of a good truck because of a bad gauge. Guess you could probably verify that with a scanner, right?
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Don, can’t remember if you said you checked it or not. Have you verified the gauge is working as expected? I’d hate for your son to get rid of a good truck because of a bad gauge. Guess you could probably verify that with a scanner, right?
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I didn't Dave. I don't have a scanner that can read active oil pressure. Can you believe HP Tuners software doesn't read oil pressure!
We just put it up for sale
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I can get my hands on a snap on scanner if you want. Wouldn’t hurt to take a look at it.
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I cheap over the counter scanner from HF will do that.
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So, here's the latest
We drove it today
The gage went slowly all the way to zero and the alarms went off
But
There was no lifter ticking noise at all!
Now how can that be???
No oil pressure would cause those lifters to all be ticking and banging away
But that motor sounds great. No lifter noise at all! So how can that be???
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that's exactly what happened to Cyndie's rig, and it made it 9 miles to home, but started ticking the next day
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I purchased a pretty good HF scanner, and guess what?
It DOES NOT!!!!!!!!!!!! show oil pressure squat. As in the gage does not show anything related
But I did pull a code P05210
Error Code P0521 is defined as Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance. This is a generic trouble code, meaning it applies to all vehicles equipped with OBD-II system, particularly those made since 1996 up to present. It is particularly common among Cadillac, Chevrolet, Dodge, GMC, Mercedes Benz, and Pontiac models. Specifications on the definition, troubleshooting, and repairs, of course, vary from one make and model to another.
The PCM (powertrain control module, also known as ECM or engine control module in other vehicle makes) is the vehicle’s computer system which controls multiple controls, electronics, and sensors. One of these sensors is the ‘Oil Pressure Sensor’ or ‘Oil Pressure Sender’ which detects the amount of (mechanical) oil pressure in the engine. It relays information through voltage reading value to the PCM. For some vehicles, oil pressure value is relayed to a gauge in the instrument cluster, showing the driver the oil pressure. Sometimes, however, there is no gauge; rather, there will be a warning light to notify the driver about the problem.
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My thoughts; if it's not ticking now, after multiple things changed out, oil pressure has varied, when it didn't before, this makes sense to me as the likely culprit. pressure indeed changed when you changed out o rings screens etc. and the faulty gauge is reading those changes, albeit incorrectly, which is why you saw the fluctuations. that oil pressure sending switch has got to be a whole mess cheaper than a teardown and reman situation. I would throw money at that.
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He did the sender Tator.
I think the o-ring got rid of the air, which got rid of the ticking (for the time being) . A few psi of clean oil is likely enough to keep the lifters pumped up.
Sounds like the gauge is accurate. Probably throwing the code because it drops so low.
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He did the sender Tator.
I think the o-ring got rid of the air, which got rid of the ticking (for the time being) . A few psi of clean oil is likely enough to keep the lifters pumped up.
Sounds like the gauge is accurate. Probably throwing the code because it drops so low.
Dang.
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He did the sender Tator.
I think the o-ring got rid of the air, which got rid of the ticking (for the time being) . A few psi of clean oil is likely enough to keep the lifters pumped up.
Sounds like the gauge is accurate. Probably throwing the code because it drops so low.
So, Ken, was waiting for you to chime in
What should I do?
It's looking like I should pull the pan again and 1. inspect the cam bearings, look up in there to see if I can see one protruding or not
and/or 2. Replace that oil filter pressure relief valve.
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Have you thought about a lower mileage 5.3 from a salvage yard and swap it?
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Have you thought about a lower mileage 5.3 from a salvage yard and swap it?
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Just don’t ask Ken if he has a low mileage motor w/ documentation for sale….. :popcorn: :tongue: :wink:
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I think I just sold the thing for $7,000. Gentleman said he would come and get it this Saturday. I explained everything about the oil press problem and told him everything I could think of. He had one like it before and sold that one. Wants to get another...
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I cheap over the counter scanner from HF will do that.
JR, as it turns out the $149.99 scanner from HF will not read it. It was the best/biggest they had. Zurich ZR13
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So, what's the plan for the PR-O (that's Pre Ranger-Officer)?
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Give him that Nissan pick em up truck
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So, what's the plan for the PR-O (that's Pre Ranger-Officer)?
PRO...I like it!
He wanted to sell the truck.
I put it up for sale
The response was a tidal wave of numbskulls
Two folks agreed to buy it, at two different intervals
Both later backed out
So
The kid will likely opt to test oil pressure to see if the gage is democrat, err, I meant to say lying.
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That should be easy enough.
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That should be easy enough.
Roger that...for him
He stands there watching me do it!
BTW other PR-E is hard at it. I like that you can go to FB every day and see if you can find your boy somewhere in the pics from the day's training.
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Yeah, Social Media is a big MCoE recruiting tool. Lot's of emphasis from the top, here.
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Yeah, Social Media is a big MCoE recruiting tool. Lot's of emphasis from the top, here.
I think its wonderful. Gets the families involved in military life.
As cute as the pics are, there is no substitute for the real thing as you well know!