REAL MAN TRUCKWORKS & SURVIVAL
VEHICLES, CAMPERS, and BOATS => General Vehicle Related Discussion => Topic started by: Flyin6 on June 14, 2016, 10:53:53 PM
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OK, "Tac Trac" is a reality starting about 12 hours ago
Here goes:
After cleaning it for hours on my Hide Site thread, I got (deep) into the maintenance and modifications today
Starting with an oil/Filter change.
I had been using John Deere oil and filters, but I have an account over at O'Rileys which cuts the price of oil and filters drastically. And I buy Wix filters which I absolutely love.
The drain plug is big time industrial and the 4 cyl turbo engine of this 4720 tractor holds 2 gallons of oil
I am switching to Mobil Delvac oil in this tractor and a lot of my stuff
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It was well inside the 50 hour oil change duty cycle I had been using, but since It got really hot when it broke down, I decided to dump the oil (literally) and start fresh.
It was on sale today, so I purchased 8 gallons
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OK, oil change complete, Next I greased the entire unit. Since I like to drive around in creeks, chasing snakes, I thought I'd switch to a Marine type grease.
Funny story: Two weekends ago, I had a bunch of kids down. They came up from the creek where they had been splashing around for 4-5 hours. They told me they saw some snakes. They claimed they saw "cotton heads" and "Water Mouths." OK, I wrote about that before, but it's still funny!
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Next up I decided to replace some of the pins that fall out on a regular basis with some grade 8 fine thread bolts with locking nuts. Shouldn't fail anymore!
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With all the abuse I have been giving to that bush hog, I wanted to look inside the gearbox to check how many gear teeth were chewed off.
I was surprised to discover the insides looked like new! I added about a pint of fresh 75W-90 and closed it all back up.
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Next up: cleaning and lubing the cutter drive shaft
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I'll wrap that with a plastic boot in the morrow...
I fussed with the linkage, moving the top link to the top hole position which is meant for lifting heavy implements, and I added a tad more height to the rear of the cutter so I reduce the number of rocks I am cutting. WOuld be nice just to cut vegetable matter and not so much mineral stuff
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Then the wheel bolts were tightened and the missing one replaced...
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Next up, I remounted that goofy canopy, and leveled it. I drilled several holes in the rain channel and tightened it down all leveled up like you see
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Next, On to the lights. I have 4ea work lights and after a couple years, none of them work anymore. So I removed one on each side, replacing them with CREE LED floods, and remounted the factory Deere lights angled down and close in to the tractor so I can witness myself driving off a cliff somewhere!
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I couldn't get them to illuminate, so I'll be spark chasing tomorrow!
Then this strange looking phenomonea blew in
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Remember that Tom Cruise movie, War of the Worlds...Remember the freakish storms...
Yea, I was thinking that too!
Not be deterred by an alien invasion, I pulled that nasty looking instrument panel out for cleaning
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I started cleaning it by prying off the glass bezel with a screwdriver. Darn thing acted just like glass and cracked!
Oh, it was glass!
Well, so much for that! Funny because just this morning, I dropped my I-phone 6+ and broke the glass in that as well!
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I cleaned that all up, then covered up an unsightly plain area
I'll wash out the area you see all grass filled tomorrow
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With the carnage you've been through I'm shocked the gearbox is as clean as it looks too.
Some funky clouds there for sure.
Glass...dho!
Nice touch on the plain area.
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OK, so far:
Pressure washed and scrubbed
Engine oil and filter changed
Greased loader and bucket and U-joints
Cleaned, greased and painted cutter drive shaft
Topped cutter gearbox oil and resealed
Adjusted 3-point linkage.
Sprayed all Spherical balls with graphite
Applied green touch up paint everywhere
Pulled and cleaned instrument cluster
Installed LED spots
Remounted canopy
Checked hydraulic fluid and topped off
Retorqued wheel bolts
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With the carnage you've been through I'm shocked the gearbox is as clean as it looks too.
Some funky clouds there for sure.
Glass...dho!
Nice touch on the plain area.
One of the punch-out to do's is:
Remove stupid decals/replace with cool decals!
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I am a big fan of the delvac too. That's what I run in my dmax.
Tractor is cleaning up nicely
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The Led lights look good. Same brand I bought, but I am curious to see how the flood pattern looks.
Don't forget air filter, fuel filter and hydro filter. You probably already did them but I didn't notice on the list.
Also curious to see the armoring. Mine sputtered to a stop when brush cutting recently. Then started spewing fuel. I was panicking until I found the large stick that was wedged in my engine. It popped the fuel line off the filter housing but I got lucky and no other damage!
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The Led lights look good. Same brand I bought, but I am curious to see how the flood pattern looks.
Don't forget air filter, fuel filter and hydro filter. You probably already did them but I didn't notice on the list.
Also curious to see the armoring. Mine sputtered to a stop when brush cutting recently. Then started spewing fuel. I was panicking until I found the large stick that was wedged in my engine. It popped the fuel line off the filter housing but I got lucky and no other damage!
I don't need a hydro filter until 500 hours, and it is one expensive filter, topping $60 with tax.
Tried to get a fuel filter, but they didn't have one
I cleaned the air filter once and will clean again today. It actually has two air filters...
Plan on a steel deflector panel on lower grill guard and more mesh steel on grill.
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Looking good, Don! I think you need to mount a swing-arm and a M240/M249 to the cab. You know, for those Copper Mouths, Water Heads, and Cotton Moccasins. 8)
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Looking good, Don! I think you need to mount a swing-arm and a M240/M249 to the cab. You know, for those Copper Mouths, Water Heads, and Cotton Moccasins. 8)
Cotton Moccasins...Never heard of them either...Seems I have missed a lot over the years!
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I think those clouds are repelled by something you are doing.
Check out Fleetfilter and stock up!
I have several of those floods too, work great but still looking for a home as plans change.
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Running parts down today and trying to get some work time in. I found out that the tractor will not start without the dash panel installed, so I'll show the repair on that in a bit.
I wanted to finish reinforcing the canopy against invading tree branches, so I came up with an idea to install some bendable front supports that were butt strong
I'll be installing some schedule 80 electrical conduit held in place with 1/8" steel cable
To do that I have to weld a stanchion to each side of the loader which will be a small piece of box tubing which will hold a 1/2" bolt that draws the whole thing tight
It will go here:
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I beefed up the top hardware and made up some bisquets to slip over the top of the loader
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I had to remove the safety decals...I feel smarter already!
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I coated up the 1/2" eye bolts
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I made a loop into one end of the cable, then threaded it through the drain hole, catching the eye bolt above
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The cable threads through the conduit which is fish-mouthed on the top side, then through the poly bushing, through the hole, and terminates in another loop through the lower eye bolt
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Next I mounted the front spot/flood combo light
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I routed the wire through the top to the canopy frame. I'll tie that into the headlight system tomorrow if time permits
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Getting mo-better!
I drained the front axle, all nearly 2 gallons. What came out did not look like 75W90, which I had purchased. It has some sort of hydraulic/transmission fluid instead. The whole axle is nearly full of the stuff, including the portal hubs.
Guess I have another run to the John Deere store in the morrow.
Next, I marked and cut out the new instrument cluster cover from a piece of lexan
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The tube of black RTV was hardened already, so I was out of RTV, well, black RTV!
Still had that ugly red stuff...
You know me, more into function that appearance...
So red it was!
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It dried in about an hour into a ugly mess!
So I decided to just spray a black border around the edge, effectively covering the red stuff
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That might be ugly as well, but too late, I'm on to the next thing.
That thing was to adjust the front axle thrust bolt.
When I touched it, I discovered it was totally loose, like ready to fall out.
So I greased and reinstalled that, preloading the front axle into it's pivot cradle. That should sharpen handling in some of those tight corners in 5th gear while hard on the throttle. No wait, that's wrong, That was my Z06 I was thinking about. Yea, so tightening the thrust bolt does something to the stuff up front there...
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Before I could get to the instrument panel to reinstall, this came in along with the emergency warning system warning of bad stuff in the sky (Not airborne troops, or rap music)...tornadoes and stuff like that.
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Good work and paint match!
Nice weather. Looks like Independence Day.
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Chief, are you braiding back the cable loops or just the loop and the crimp.
I've found over the years the plain loop with the crimp slips.
If you don't know how it's dirt simple. And if you do this would be for those who don't.
Unwind three of the strands off the cable until you have enough on each to make the size of loop you want plus a bit for a crimp or clamp. Form the loop with the main cable back on itself, and rewind the three loose strands back on from the opposite side of the loop. May take a couple attempts to get the 'lay' right.
You end up with a very minimized net strength loss, but more importantly it won't slip.
And another wicked looking set of clouds.
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Red RTV ... . But maybe you won't see any of it anyway. Good band-aid solution.
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Chief, are you braiding back the cable loops or just the loop and the crimp.
I've found over the years the plain loop with the crimp slips.
If you don't know how it's dirt simple. And if you do this would be for those who don't.
Unwind three of the strands off the cable until you have enough on each to make the size of loop you want plus a bit for a crimp or clamp. Form the loop with the main cable back on itself, and rewind the three loose strands back on from the opposite side of the loop. May take a couple attempts to get the 'lay' right.
You end up with a very minimized net strength loss, but more importantly it won't slip.
And another wicked looking set of clouds.
Yes, Samual, I have done it hammer n' crimp style.
It's OK my friend, I'm sure I will destroy those on a recurring basis.
The cable stays I am using will never have the lifespan to start working.
My best guess is a sneaky white oak branch that hooks one while I'm looking the other way. 66HP + 4WD + Low-Low gears will more than likely overcome a 1/8" cable rather easily.
But I can hope!
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You had me right up til the orange sillycone! smh&LOLing
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You had me right up til the orange sillycone! smh&LOLing
At least I wasn't the first,,,,,,
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Chief, are you braiding back the cable loops or just the loop and the crimp.
I've found over the years the plain loop with the crimp slips.
If you don't know how it's dirt simple. And if you do this would be for those who don't.
Unwind three of the strands off the cable until you have enough on each to make the size of loop you want plus a bit for a crimp or clamp. Form the loop with the main cable back on itself, and rewind the three loose strands back on from the opposite side of the loop. May take a couple attempts to get the 'lay' right.
You end up with a very minimized net strength loss, but more importantly it won't slip.
And another wicked looking set of clouds.
Yes, Samual, I have done it hammer n' crimp style.
It's OK my friend, I'm sure I will destroy those on a recurring basis.
The cable stays I am using will never have the lifespan to start working.
My best guess is a sneaky white oak branch that hooks one while I'm looking the other way. 66HP + 4WD + Low-Low gears will more than likely overcome a 1/8" cable rather easily.
But I can hope!
Fact of the matter you're likely better off this way now that I remember you operating style...
Slippage may save headaches, possibly literally!
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Good logic there Sam- and you are correct; I've actually touched some of the stuff he "mows".......what Don needs is attachments like Speed Racer had on the front of his "Mach 5", you know, pop-out horizontal saw blades!
Was hoping that he'd actually convert to using Sarge to remove the "under brush"........
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Or maybe a flail mower? They appear to be designed for it but I have never used one.
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Don't get Don thinking there about pop out cutters. Next he'll be modding some of some darn heli to that!
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I got a metric ton of stuff done today!
And no ugly cloud pics to show...Could that be the reason I got so much completed
To start, I topped the front axle up with fresh hydraulic fluid. Can you believe it, that front axle holds 5.3 gallons of fluid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I started stockpiling lubrication fluids. So far I have 10 gallons of Hyd fluid, 6 gallons of Diesel engine oil, extra fuels and a bunch of other stuff. So much in fact that I think I'm going to create a vault space where I can safely store it all out at the hide.
Next up, I removed the 4-1 bucket hydraulic cylinders and tightened the fittings, which had slow but persistent leaks (seeps??)
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Then I pulled the air filters, shook them off as best as i could, then blew compressed air over the inside and outside. Even after shaking and banging, I was getting clouds of dust and grass seed out of the primary fliter.
Donaldson makes these filters for Deere. The inner filter was pretty clean. No dirt had passed from the first stage filter.
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Then it was time for a second degreasing of the inner surfaces. After soaking with simple green, I worked it in, then hosed it off leaving everything very clean
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The instrument panel turned out much better than it started with that awful clouded over bezel. THe satin black border covered most of the red RTV
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Next, I made all the connections for the new aft facing LED lights. Now they work!
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Next up, I wanted to add some protection to the myriad of steel hydraulic lines criss crossing the loader boom. All I really need to a deflector of sorts to heep a pesky locust branch from catching a line and prying it loose or kinking it
4" Convoluted rain gutter tubing is the answer!
I cut it to length, then made a longitudinal cut in it, then slipped it over the loader cross over, then taped it back together with electrician tape
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Some lines had been forced out of their pillow blocks, so I persuaded them to reengage with my trusty rubber mallet. A few zip ties will ensure future compliance to my non movement policy.
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Those two long flex lines running up to the bucket control the 4-1 cylinders
Each has been ripped off the bucket. Si I'm trying something different here. I took a section of that schedule 80 electrical PVC conduit and sliced it in a spiral. That gives it the ability to flex, and yet remain rigid enough to deflect invasive branches. I'll test it out over the summer to see if it is a good idea or a bad one
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I didn't do anything yet, but I need to beef up this grill guard, as it does not sufficiently guard anything!
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Now for the overhead LED light box.
There was a pigtail which was hot, coming out of the fusebox for future additions. Well, this light is THAT addition. I had a switch that was very much like the factory ones, so I created a rectangular opening and wired that circuit in.
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Then I finished the wiring and completed that task
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The bundle of loader hoses were the next item to get protected. I used the same technique...
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And then the underside hoses:
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I added some protection to the engine oil filter
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Instead of spiral cut PVC, couldn't you use the flexy aluminum hose for dryers or whatnot? Might be a little more resistant to stabby grabby things than the spirals, especially if they are flexed open and something grabs hold.
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I felt the loader was getting pretty beat up looking and it was rusting everywhere. Now this isn't really a problem, as it is made from really thick steels. But to make it last longer, I sanded the whole thing, first with #80 grit, then chased it with #120. Then I washed it with laquer thinner and taped up parts that didn't need paint
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Instead of spiral cut PVC, couldn't you use the flexy aluminum hose for dryers or whatnot? Might be a little more resistant to stabby grabby things than the spirals, especially if they are flexed open and something grabs hold.
No way Bobby! That stuff is flimsy. You couldn't get through this with a new Gerber Mark 1!
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Then I treated it to three heavy coats of factory Deere paint with hardener added
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No way Bobby! That stuff is flimsy. You couldn't get through this with a new Gerber Mark 1!
But mother nature has her ways of ruining the best laid plans of men; usually with great effect.
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^^^^True!
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Here is the view aft with those LED's chewin' up the night
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And the reconditioned instrument panel:
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The view forward:
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Couple of forward quadrant shots:
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Aft quadrant aspect...Note that one of the factory "Rock" lights bulbs is not working. Hes something to do with the fact that a locust tree pulverized the bulb. No worries, I'll buy some LED replacements from Super Bright LED's
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In all those pics, the only outside lights that were on were those on the tractor!
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So far so good on the lights, switch and covers. Maybe extend the 4in all the over the fittings and and clamp it? Surprised all those hoses are that exposed.
Like to see on the farm with no reflections. Looks like you have good coverage. Maybe some side lights? Don't want to get flanked!!
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Wouldn't want to drive too close and roll off a cliff either!
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Maybe some side lights?
I agree; possibly on the side of the cab cover.
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Wouldn't want to drive too close and roll off a cliff either!
Or into a well,,,,,,,
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Or into a well,,,,,,,
Well if he'd mark the hazards with chemlites there wouldn't be a problem...
And had a barrier about knee - waist high 6' around the hole...
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Don you are my inspiration.
(http://a63.tinypic.com/2enytnb.jpg)
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^^^^ I'm Jealous!
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I got most of the tool box and pioneer equipment rack done today.
First, take a look at how well that J-Deere paint flowed out! Val Spar makes it, a high quality acrylic enamel which uses a catalyst hardener to set things im motion. Hardeners also gloss up paint as is evident in the photo
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So, I'm going to try and get all this stuff hung and secured on the tractor someplace where it will stay, not fall off, and be readily accessible. I am thinking the shotgun might mount to the underside of the canopy
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There will be a lot more going into the tool box to include some spare parts, pins, a hyd line or two, a lug nut, and who knows what else
I started by cutting out the "Pan" which will hold the tool box
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I bent that into the approximate shape I wanted
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And it fits fairly well
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A simple steel cable secured to an over-centering latch will hold all that business securely in place.
I have to comment on the welding table though. I'd say that 7/16 OSB works well, as it doesn't get straight into rolling flames, allowing you time to extinguish it which in turn allows for additional welding!
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The latch seems to hold fairly well and the keeper pin keeps jolts from occasionally driving into old abandoned wells from causing tool boxes and who knows what from falling off!
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The initial fit was OK. I used the existing turn signal lower bolt and drilled a 3/8" hole below that as well. Thinking about it, adding that tool box will increase the tractors performance!
Really!
All that extra weight centered perfectly over the rear wheels will add untold traction. I can probably get back to mowing medium size oak trees again!
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The mount for the opposite side is mucho larger because it will be carrying the massive weight of a hydraulic bottle jack!
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I connected both sides with a piece of steel I scored from that rejected Big-A$$ fans order. Then I added a piece of 3" exhaust tubing which holds the bottle neck rather nicely
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That jack mount will get a couple pieces of rubber and a bungee or two to keep things where they belong.
The grand Kids came over with Dad's day gifts and their mamma wanted a motorcycle ride, so my fab day ended right then and there!
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Oh, the shotgun is the gun I chose for general farm use because of critters. I am running into a bunch of those "Cotton-Heads" and "Water-Mouths" and a shotgun will work on them.
One day I fear those ostrich sized turkey I keep seeing will attack me, like on the creepy TV advertisement. A 12 gage will kill turkey. Same-Same for killer whitetail. Man needs to defend himself against marauding Deer, hand him a 12 gage.
A fella finds another fella's still all set up on his creek, like the other fella was given permission...Like that. Well, a 12 gage is like anti aircraft fire to Hueys on short final. Cuts em to pieces and causes the aircrew to abandon the bird and go away!
Should someone come along enroute to his happy tobaccy patch...Also on your farm. If he starts arguing the finer points of the law, a 12 gage can aid him in seeing your point of view.
And finally, There are not one, but TWO Friggin Black Bears hanging near the stream on my place. I thought the two competing packs of coyotes were the last word in food chain climbers, but a higher up the rung species seems to have come ah' callin'
I'll leave them alone but if they the bears) get to feeling like the person setting up a still, or the other person using my rich soil for no-good reasons. If they get difficult to reason with, then the 12 gage, once again, clears the air of confusion!
Bears! What next...Crop Circles?????
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Is that a mossy 930? I want one of those...
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Is that a mossy 930? I want one of those...
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Yes it is
Has a combat charging knob, sling adapter, front flashlight rail, 6 round shotshell holder on receiver, and getting to be a lot of useage.
Pluses: one handed operation. I like to train with one handed shooting sometimes.
Minuses: Gets hard to load when dirty. If you don't fully seat shell in tube it will eject onto the ground when you fire the round in the chamber.
Like every weapon, you simply need to train with this gun
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I think we should dub the Tac Trac as Square D II, its even green!
Like to see which mount you will use for the mossy. My KSG has a similar issue. You have to rack it like you mean to, no weak wrist stuff!!
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Isn't the 930 a semi auto?
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Yep the 930 is, KSG is not, but has that little quirk.
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Isn't the 930 a semi auto?
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Yes it is
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So I read this thread, but just to clarify you're gunna now keep on beating this tractor until you kill it for good on that farm of yours?
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So I read this thread, but just to clarify you're gunna now keep on beating this tractor until you kill it for good on that farm of yours?
I shopped it around in the $29,995 range and got a bite. I ran that down and that hole went dry. I paid over $40K for that unit, which is the absolute flagship for tractors of that size. I bought it on zero percent financing and I almost have it paid off.
So,
After fixing the simple thing that was wrong with it (Although it caused aggravation to me) it is still about the best hydrostatic 66HP Compact tractor in the world.
I decided to pay it off, take it a little easier on it, but focus on some handy implements, and after it is paid off, then If I still need a bigger tractor, then I'll just go buy one and keep this one.
I don't know if I'll stay up in my big country home near the city that I have my butt parked at for the moment. But it has the Skagg zero turn which is a life-timer. So the little 1025 Deere, mulch carrier will shuttle between places as I need it. This 4720 will live its life down at the hide, and in time a bigger brother will move in as well. We will put up a proper barn and Sarge and these tractors will move in there. For working critters and utility work, this 4720 is fantastic, and wifey friendly, so I see it staying around.
I guess that's the smarter plan...
I still need an excavator and some sort of forestry saw, and a sawmill. I plan to add property to this place until it grows to about 450 acres. I have some unique things I wish to do there, so I'll need the additional heavy equipment...and for all those reasons...I'm out!
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Today, we will finish up the mount for the shovel and tool box.
Here's the upper shovel mount. It is really just a catchment. THe shovel secures below at the blade, but slides into this first
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The lower mount is like the ones you have seem me use before
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The tool box was finish welded, then ground somewhat, then primed with the acid etch stuff
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Then painted completely
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The rest of the lower mount was fitted...
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And the rest of the business was then bolted up and the shovel and jack slid home. I did line the jack and upper shovel mount with the rubber liner with adhesive backing, so that it wouldn't disturb the mud daubers and spiders while I was mowing sequoias.
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Got just a tid bit of safety sam in me I guess. I imagined mowing in overspeed mode and that little single engine quadraped with big teeth decidin' to attack that buzzin' slight out of plane drive shaft, and suddenly finding himself about seventeen feet long and in doing High-"G" astro-dog training!
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^^^ That will either work, or it won't
The thing is getting near completion, except for the cutter mod which I should start tomorrow
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Took a while for me to catch up with this. It's looking great. But is it my eyes or did the new paint not quite match the OEM paint color? Was the Val spar stuff guaranteed to match or did you just pick the closest Green? It still looks really good, just curious for when I might be ordering paint.
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Took a while for me to catch up with this. It's looking great. But is it my eyes or did the new paint not quite match the OEM paint color? Was the Val spar stuff guaranteed to match or did you just pick the closest Green? It still looks really good, just curious for when I might be ordering paint.
Bought a quart at the J Deere store.
Wait until I buff the highly scratched and somewhat scratched factory stuff...
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OK so maybe the factory paint is just faded a little and ad you said scratched up.
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OK so maybe the factory paint is just faded a little and ad you said scratched up.
It seems to have darkened. But a buffer will cut that faded stuff right off and get to some fresher stuff me thinks...Not that it matters!
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I'm almost surprised you haven't camo krylon'd it yet.
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I'm almost surprised you haven't camo krylon'd it yet.
If he does that Bobby, he won't be able to find it when the grass grows up or when a part flys off!
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I'm almost surprised you haven't camo krylon'd it yet.
Woman intervened!
Had the paint all selected and laid out when the woman discovered me. Like I was a kid caught in the cookie jar! She said,"Don't go and hillbilly out that tractor."
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Too funny
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I'm almost surprised you haven't camo krylon'd it yet.
Woman intervened!
Had the paint all selected and laid out when the woman discovered me. Like I was a kid caught in the cookie jar! She said,"Don't go and hillbilly out that tractor."
I can't stop chuckling about the visual of that! You all slump shouldered kicking the air and mumbling while putting the necessary equipment back on the shelf. As Nate would say, "all boo-boo lipped"........I feel your pain- we've all been there! ;D
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I tackled the Bush hog today
I started with this, a bent up several year old J-Deere MX-6 heavy duty hog which has seen a hard life so far
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First I removed the aft ricochet curtain. We will not be reusing that Mr. Phelps
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Then I made the first of several cuts, cutting away the rear shroud and opening it up to possibilities
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Then I started plating and reinforcing it with 1/4" plate steel
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Then I cut out a "Hook" to keep the pesky saplings from escaping. You'll notice the steel is thick and getting thicker
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Those were welded in
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Next I marked off and cut out a "Hooked" area. This is where all the business is going to take place. THe saplings should get shoved over into this recess where they will be exposed to knifage
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Then I cut out two uprights from 1/4" plate and the pusher bars from .250 wall 3" square tubing.
The idea here is that the tree is first bent away from the cutter at a slight angle before the slightly stressed trunk is exposed to the blades. This should make for a wee bit easier cutting and make for easide cutting as things will be pushed to fall just aft of that hungry mouth.
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I did the other side the same way, then connected the two halves with a center guard
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Then I welded up everything and moved it outside for cleaning
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I pressure washed all the grit off as well as those stupid decals. The decals took the longest!
Here is a view of the blades. I'd say about 1.75" is exposed along a part of the rear. Mind you, this will not be ideal, but it should be a ton more effective a cutter that it has been with all that bent up thin wall junk hanging on for dear life back there
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With the scrubbin' complete, next is the sandin' wipin' and ah paintin'
Hopefully it will turn out like the bucket. If all goes according to plan I might have it snatching the life out of hundreds of saplings by the week end
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Oh boyyy, The Implement of death!!!!
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Dang, you are going to need a dual wheel setup to handle the "Mad Max" mod!!
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"But what about the safety chain guard!"
Says some liberal who isn't a Darwinism fan...
That will sure wreak havoc on something!
Hopefully the blades are up to the task they now face.
I'd hazard this may be a tiny bit out of the scope of the engineers vision for this brush hog. I'm thinking it will be way mo-better at mowing down the saplings now.
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Perhaps you have voided the warranty? :)
Just don't mow over that chainsaw again with it pointed at your truck...
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Makes it easier to sharpen those blades now! It will toss more "debris" out of the back now so watch your six as you feel it out and remember that those modifications don't up the diameter of what it'll handle!
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You Menses are funnie!
The chain saw has been mowed over several more times. Mikey saw the cylinder/broken piston (dis)assembly. It no longer poses a significant restriction to mowing!
The blades are up to anything. They look to be 3/4" - 1" thick and are made of high strength hardened steel in a forge.
See, here's the thing. This cutter was factory rated at cutting up to 3" saplings (trees??). Obviously you can't mow a standing thicket of three in. trees, however if you encounter one every once in awhile, sa-live'
The problem has always been in the engagement technique. If one drives over said 3" tree, then enroute to the cutter the flattened tree under a buncha upward pressure takes hydraulic lines, clips, pins and your ham and cheese sandwich every once in awhile. If I back over said tree, then the chain holder thig-ah-ma-jig gets bent up and rolled under. That now turns your cutter into a part time box scraper as well (A good thing???)
By opening up your mouth it is like having a stadium of Sanders supporters listening the the Bernie. His mouth is much more effective!
The pusher bars should just start to push the trees backward before death and a new height arrives on the scene. That's all. Well and if that coon comes out of the hole in the tree and dashes under the bush hog before I can get my nine out, he'll have easier access ;-)))
Bottom line: It was fun modding the thing, I got a better (deadlier) cutter, and you boneheads got entertained!
Summary: Its all good!
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Makes it easier to sharpen those blades now! It will toss more "debris" out of the back now so watch your six as you feel it out and remember that those modifications don't up the diameter of what it'll handle!
Copy that Mike!
I think that how this is going to play out, is that this thing will handle the mo-bigger cutting operations. Like the edge of the fields where roses, briars, and stuff like that is keeping me from getting at the bases of the cedars. I'll open that all up with this cutter. Then I think I'm gonna end up owning a flair mower to mow over those golf course lookin' fields of mine. I'll use "Big Bite" as I have named it to cut the swath of "Ephesians trail", then the flail to keep the poison ivy mowed to a comfortable height.
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Perhaps you have voided the warranty? :)
Just don't mow over that chainsaw again with it pointed at your truck...
The tip speed of those blades are relatively low compared to your standard lawn mower but I would still pay attention to which direction you are pointing when mowing.
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Perhaps you have voided the warranty? :)
Just don't mow over that chainsaw again with it pointed at your truck...
The tip speed of those blades are relatively low compared to your standard lawn mower but I would still pay attention to which direction you are pointing when mowing.
Copy that!
Got it!
Open/mowing end toward liberals!
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OK, except for painting the appropriate Danger markings on the big mouth, I'm done with that
So I was thinking about what to put back there to indicate the danger
Here's my ideas:
1. That "V" warning on navee jet fighters that says "Jet Intake"
2. A sign written in haji script saying, "Isis fighters, Martyr yourselves here"
^^^ That's my fav so far!
3. "Insert republican ballots here" That way i could lease the machine to the polling centers which are run by democrats
4. Paint a mouth with teeth like the Flying Tiger P-40's had flying against the Japs in China...Oh yes, world, the US Army saved that country also!
5. A sign, "Entrance, Hillary rally"
6. Something like "Darwin award interviews inside"
or
7. "If you recently visited all 57 states, then hold onto the metallic lever inside and pull up on yellow switch to see what prize you won!"
So obviously I have some things to think about...
I had some holes to fill in prior to sanding, like this one:
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And trim down some pointed metal parts
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That's done except for grinding...And I put an edge back on the blades. Funny how those limestone bolders dulls those things!
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Then I started the sanding which took quite a long time!
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For the life of me, I couldn't knock that exit wound in flat. I pounded in on until I centrifuged all my blood into my fingertips. If I would have pulled a hang nail, I'd have likely bled to death!
So I got it close, put a scab on the inside and welded 'er shut!
Hmmm, no pic of 'er welded shut...according to Shawn, it must not have happened!
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All sanded, first with #80, then again with #120
and washed with laqueur thinner
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Next up, acid etching primer stuff. I rattle canned it!
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The paint I used this time is some stuff that TSC sells. It was cheap, like half as much as that liquid gold stuff that Deere sells.
I found a local herion dealer. I told him I needed 1 kilo of pure John Deere paint. He said he thought he could get it, but it was going to cost me...$10,000!
But hey, I'm an Armee pilot so I figured it must be a steal! Get it...a steal???
Anyway, he got busted and the deal fell through, so I had to go for something else. Duane had a single good idea today and buying this stuff was it. Good goin' Buddy!
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And here's how it laid on that cutter/killer/dismemberment device:
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And that cat is in the bag.
Time to load this contraption back up and get it back down to it's home.
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Looks good and I vote for the stickers that are teeth from the ol p-40
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Looks good and I vote for the stickers that are teeth from the ol p-40
Raising boys into RealMen!!
Not liking the ballot shredder?
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Like this:
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I'm liking the ISIS fighters one with the P-40 as a close second.
The green looks pretty legit for colour match.
And the rotary abomination is ready for destruction detail!
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Whoa, now that sure does look purdy ! (in sling blade voice)
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Whoa, now that sure does look purdy ! (in sling blade voice)
That's where that name comes from!
Billy Bob...Sling Blade
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That looks fantastic. Amazingly shiny!
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Here's my ideas:
2. A sign written in haji script saying, "Isis fighters, Martyr yourselves here"
^^^ That's my fav so far!
you couldn't PAY me to desecrate anything I own with that chicken scratch garbage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I like the P40 stickers too. Maybe a lib will ask what they are and get close to those heat treated sharpened blades.
I got some of that TSC magic paint too, good stuff. That is way to purdy a paint job for messing it up.
Now, lets see it cut a few saplings down.
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Video for sure Don. I definitely don't need a ballot shredder
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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It looks like you put quite the edge on that blade. Generally you don't want to sharpen mower blades to sharp. You want to keep some base material there to make it more difficult for the blade to get large dents and chips on the cutting edge. Your really not cutting grass as much as tearing it off. Even with a really sharp blade on your lawn mower if you look at it the end of the grass spear is ragged. Obviously you don't want the entire cutting edge of the blade rounded over. There should be some point to it but it shouldn't be razor sharp either.
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For the life of me, I couldn't knock that exit wound in flat. I pounded in on until I centrifuged all my blood into my fingertips. If I would have pulled a hang nail, I'd have likely bled to death!
So I got it close, put a scab on the inside and welded 'er shut!
Hmmm, no pic of 'er welded shut...according to Shawn, it must not have happened!
So what you're saying is in that shop of yours you don't own an oxy acetylene torch with a rosebud? If this is true then you need to invest as you now own heavy equipment & use a bigger hammer you sissy...... ;D
I'm not sure about this whole mower mod. I agree we need video......
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Here's my ideas:
2. A sign written in haji script saying, "Isis fighters, Martyr yourselves here"
^^^ That's my fav so far!
you couldn't PAY me to desecrate anything I own with that chicken scratch garbage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good point Nate
It's off the list!
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It looks like you put quite the edge on that blade. Generally you don't want to sharpen mower blades to sharp. You want to keep some base material there to make it more difficult for the blade to get large dents and chips on the cutting edge. Your really not cutting grass as much as tearing it off. Even with a really sharp blade on your lawn mower if you look at it the end of the grass spear is ragged. Obviously you don't want the entire cutting edge of the blade rounded over. There should be some point to it but it shouldn't be razor sharp either.
You just learned me something!
I was wondering why the cutting angle was steeper than a knife, and why they come new without much (if any) of an edge.
Now on the flip side, we sharpen our axes before going to work on a shaggy bark hickory, so if the sharper blade cuts OK, I know it would be better on the saplings...
Or
That's my story, and I'm sticking with it!
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For the life of me, I couldn't knock that exit wound in flat. I pounded in on until I centrifuged all my blood into my fingertips. If I would have pulled a hang nail, I'd have likely bled to death!
So I got it close, put a scab on the inside and welded 'er shut!
Hmmm, no pic of 'er welded shut...according to Shawn, it must not have happened!
So what you're saying is in that shop of yours you don't own an oxy acetylene torch with a rosebud? If this is true then you need to invest as you now own heavy equipment & use a bigger hammer you sissy...... ;D
I'm not sure about this whole mower mod. I agree we need video......
Rosebud: Check
I'm not sure about this mod either!
Just willing to gamble a perfectly MX-6 to find out! ;-))
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You just learned me something!
I was wondering why the cutting angle was steeper than a knife, and why they come new without much (if any) of an edge.
Now on the flip side, we sharpen our axes before going to work on a shaggy bark hickory, so if the sharper blade cuts OK, I know it would be better on the saplings...
Or
That's my story, and I'm sticking with it!
I'm sure a sharp blade would help with the saplings as long as you don't mow any rocks etc.. prior to getting to said saplings.
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Rocks?!? Negative, boulders........
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So what you're saying is in that shop of yours you don't own an oxy acetylene torch with a rosebud? If this is true then you need to invest as you now own heavy equipment & use a bigger hammer you sissy...... ;D
I'm not sure about this whole mower mod. I agree we need video......
Rosebud: Check
I'm not sure about this mod either!
Just willing to gamble a perfectly MX-6 to find out! ;-))
For more detailed fab work like building bumpers or maybe light modifications like you are doing here the plasma torch and mig welder are great. But for heavy duty repairs on machinery a oxy acetylene torch and stick welder will be your best friend. You can heat things up to bend/ pound them back into shape and cut/ weld without needing to get parts real clean.
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Here's my ideas:
2. A sign written in haji script saying, "Isis fighters, Martyr yourselves here"
^^^ That's my fav so far!
you couldn't PAY me to desecrate anything I own with that chicken scratch garbage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes definitely a good point. P-40 is my favourite in this case.
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For more detailed fab work like building bumpers or maybe light modifications like you are doing here the plasma torch and mig welder are great. But for heavy duty repairs on machinery a oxy acetylene torch and stick welder will be your best friend. You can heat things up to bend/ pound them back into shape and cut/ weld without needing to get parts real clean.
We've been over this before with senoir Don Jaun....he won't listen (openly), but next week he'll come home with a torch and pretend the DOTS had nothing to do with it. We'll give him praise, showering him with compliments, completely ignorant of the fact that we might have had a small part in his decision.
...oh, I also vote P40 style!
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A week? He's moving that fast now huh? Seem to recall a fuel pump taking months.......... ;)
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Looks like we might both be fired after that one!
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He did get the ol dog squatting dodge started. Just hasn't done anything else.
I did finally get a message back from him on a plus side
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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He did get the ol dog squatting dodge started. Just hasn't done anything else.
I did finally get a message back from him on a plus side
Raising boys into RealMen!!
Funny
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Heck, it will battle damage by the weekends end,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Will this work?
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I tested out the thing digging a fire pit for the neighbors
I found a leaking hydraulic cylinder in the 4-1 bucket!
Other than that, the paint was christened properly
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Then I made a ajor modification to the engine throttle handle
I glued on a skull!
A chromed skull
With Beady red eyes
And
It came off Square D
(Sorry Bobby, I know you wanted it!)
Now more throttle equals more death and destruction!
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This is getting serious,,,,,,,,,
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Does the skull qualify as a "hillbilly up" modification?
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Yes. Yes I think it does. Needs a "fear this" sticker too
Raising boys into RealMen!!
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Lets see, sharks teeth decal, scull throttle, exposed blades, tools, shovel (on a tractor?) and a shotgun rack about to be mounted?
Sounds like normal stuff around here.
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OK, we'll have a poll to decide...
PWC
(Poll with consequences...)
Be careful... ;-))
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While you're at it you should sneak around behind the Frau's Peej and apply an "Ain't Skeered" sticker!
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OK, we'll have a poll to decide...
PWC
(Poll with consequences...)
Be careful... ;-))
Oh no, we get banned again.
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Lets see, sharks teeth decal, scull throttle, exposed blades, tools, shovel (on a tractor?) and a shotgun rack about to be mounted?
Sounds like HILLBILLY stuff around here.
Fixed it for you....
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I glued on a skull!
A chromed skull
With Beady red eyes
And
It came off Square D
(Sorry Bobby, I know you wanted it!)
Now more throttle equals more death and destruction!
I feel cheated. >:(
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I see somebody pushed the Banned button!
Sorry Bobby, I meant to send it to you like 1.5 years ago, but like most things in my life, I forgot to!
So I'll dedicate the carnage of living things to you, grunts, The Airborne, and Infantry in general!
OK?
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I see somebody pushed the Banned button!
Sorry Bobby, I meant to send it to you like 1.5 years ago, but like most things in my life, I forgot to!
So I'll dedicate the carnage of living things to you, grunts, The Airborne, and Infantry in general!
OK?
It's all good. I don't think it would fit on XJ and won't work with the Saturn. So I'll let it pass this time.