Here is is about an hour later. Looking good for just 6v@800ma.

Put a better hanger on it too to make sure it was grounded good, but the regular chargers would not touch it!!

Well, finally got around to making my electrolytic rust remover.

The only real issue I had is my 2 smart chargers WONT work! They like to see voltage and adjust as they go. I tried and tried and finally dug out a 6v DC car charger and I had bubbles!! Just 800ma so it may take a little longer so a PC power supply might be next.

First was four 8 inch pieces of rebar. They were held in with #14 copper wire from the outside.
 

Darn those switches are purdy, to bad they are so pricey!!

Not much room in the glove box for gloves with that.

I do slightly question the wiring through the passenger floor. Isn't that a fairly high wear area?

Welcome aboard, we all got sorta sucked in. DOT on the loose!!!!!!

Had to through that in Don. We have all been waiting and the DOTs are getting restless!! I can't be all bad, I did find you guys, right?


Re-reading I saw where you use a breaker on the cv nut. I just hit myine with a air gun and they break loose easy. For torquing though, I just wait till I'm done when the wheel is on the ground and have a 3/4 bar for that.

Oh, and I carry an extra hub. Got a cheapo for like $50, but when you need one you need one!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXBEODlyI0w

LOL!!!!!

Ok, I"ll bite.

2006 LBZ, 110k, leveled with 17 wheels, DSP5. Just got a 6 inch lift since it needs tires and maybe Ill put on the HD bumpers then too.

My flip and swap subs, both 91s. 1500 gets flipped, 2500 gets a 6BT and 0ne ton axles (all in hand)

1987 El Camino, 400k+ miles, just put in another 200r4 and have a complete 5.3 swap for it on the floor.

1986 Samurai, got a 1.6 tracker motor for it, 6;1 t case kit.

I almost ordered china fenders for my sub, glad I just got the gm from the boneyard

Ahh, SD will never run,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

We're being invaded!!!!!

COOL,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Just what we need, DOT's gone wild

Great questions you DOT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I am looking for more like a 4.5 bs and saw they are using 8-10oz of airsoft.

Dang thats alot of boost for it to kick in at. Not for cruzing but running huh. You going run a mix or just water?

I run a 20% alcohol, but have something wrong in mine and haven't figured it out yet. Think its in the lines.

Are you going to run a KIA proof cover over the pump?

Com-on, fire it up!!

I had something very similar in my 77. It was metal though and had a locking center section.

Mine was bolted through the cab and they included some cool break of nuts on a wand for mounting. Loved it!!

I understand all that Don, I get alot of the same training.

I think like many I am frustrated at what is happening and want to see someone do something before it really blows up.

(where's that head-band sticky)

Ok, but the 14bt I have now is 67. If I add the drw hubs I get a 72in wms to wms, right?

But if I have spacers and have to run a standard H1 wheel I can, leaving the front and rear as is at 67in (+ the spacers) for a 72in wms. if I recenter the wheels.

Maybe I am making this harder than it needs be, thats why I am asking.

I am just a little concerned about running spacers all the time. They are alum, but so are many wheels. However they are billet vs cast for the wheels. 2 more spacers will run me $70. 5 centers run about $250, plus the work to mount em, maybe machine to true em up too.

Have you re-centered any Norm?

You know, you can't just make up some of this stuff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

How do you think he funds these builds!!!!!!!!!!!

Kinda looking at it all, sorta a tossup. The "option" of grabbing almost any 8 lug and run it has an appeal, just as not recentering does.

With a little more research the front dually setup will be to wide. However the rear will work just fine. For the front I can just run the spacers I have and I could remove those if needed because turning would be an issue. For the rear, sticking out some until repaired would not be a big deal. Plus the tracts seem to be getting wider all the time.

So right now to run it I need rear drw hubs, axles are the same. To recenter, that would only apply to the truck, not the trailer or spare for it as the tract is not really adjustable anyway easy.

I am still leaning to running the H1s as is and do the dually rear hubs. for the rear discs, thats another thing I need to look at too.

Lots of work don there BD. With the addition of the new bumper, the current snorkel and the roof rack. Seeing the thing coming at you or in your rear view will just be intimidating as H*&L.

Hmm, like the idea of the new intake elbow. Someone may have suggested it before,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Just looked at my hood and I have a dent where louvers would cover it right up. 

Well, made a little trip as I stated down south and got a M1101 trailer, but mines Camo. For $800 and I got a spare tire.

Got the elky tranny in just before I left and a few parts came in also. Found all my lines and a set of internal hubs for the 60.

For the hubs I am going to use the electrolysis rust tank.

Quote from: JR on March 02, 2015, 12:50:14 PM

How thick are those rods for the cleaner. I am seeing carbon welding rods in 3/8in. Will those work or do you need to remove the coating?

Got my 60 hubs and they need a good cleaning, thought I would try that anode cleaner.

Closer to 3/4 in.  You don't have to use Carbon gouging rod, you can use rebar too.  The Carbon rods just make for a cleaner process.  The nice thing about electrolytic cleaning is that threads and other delicate surfaces will not be damaged.  Only the rust is removed.

Thx, I did couple searches and found that some were using rebar. Picked up some soda today and I have rebar so I am set.

Same color and year as mine!! This will be good.

I have the CTS to and love it. I used Idaho Rob and have a DSP5.

Do the EGR fast, there is alot of crud in there.

here is another showing the same 120* spacing for the gov-loc. Another pic showed you can see the clutch plates too without opening the case.

You are making me curious to open mine up. I did some math too and the 4.10s might be OK, showing 1800 rpm at 70mph.

Looks like the 14bt gov lock uses just 3 spiders vs 4 of the open or locker, here is a pic I found, blowed up!!