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Messages - husker77c
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201
« on: September 21, 2015, 03:13:55 PM »
So figured I would post a little update now that work has slowed down a bit. Still 7 days a week but at least not 15 hour days. As some of you know from my other thread my daily driver is being bought back by dodge so the ford will become my daily driver so I have some work to do on it to get it 100% I got my auxiliary fuel tank down to where I'm at and will put it in when I get the chance hopefully sometime this week.   I also started gathering up parts for the cummins swap. I found a guy on a FB group I'm a member of selling motor mounts that had only been used for mock up. I snatched those up quickly.  I had my buddy who is storing my engine pull the head off and take it to the machine shop. I'm having it decked flat and they are installing O-rings. I've also started shopping for performance parts for the 12 valve. From what I've gathered I need to be shooting for 450 HP or so which will give me close to 8-900 ft/lb of torque. This seems to be the magic number to give the 12 valve similar towing performance to my 2012. So far I'm looking at New turbo possibly a 62/65/12 maybe a little bigger. New injectors. 100hp which are 5x.014 or 7x.010 along with different delivery valves 4k governor springs and 60# exhaust valve springs. And then the tuning. Pull the fuel plate, tune the pump, and bump the timing to somewhere between 16-18 degrees. New head bolts, going to go upgraded bolts versus head studs. I shouldn't be going over 50 psi so the bolts are much easier since you don't have to ream the block and machine the rocker pedestals. Probably going to tear it down and re seal everything and give it a nice coat of paint also. I'm still researching because I need it to be reliable and if that ends up being too much then I'll have to tone it down. Might mean having to pull the camper a little slower but I'd rather do that than break down. Especially if I'm pulling the trailer trying to get out of dodge because something happened. I figure I've got about a month and a half or two months before i start the swap. So I've got time to research and figure it out. Anyone here have any suggestions or comments on building the engine? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
202
« on: September 21, 2015, 12:12:31 PM »
This is my reasons:
If you've never ridden one through rocky terrain, or washboard roads, you don't know what you're missing. Also, I've had jeeps, a samurai, 3/4 ton, etc, but none could go where my ranger goes....unless a place where I needed a bunch of ground clearance (like running over a downed tree).
I guess when I was younger it didn't really matter about "ride quality", but now, bad back and all, I wouldn't ever trade my ranger for a jeep.
Bingo People use them all the time out here on the pipeline and they are worth there weight in gold. My girl has a wrangler I brought out here and while it did very well it still doesn't compare to the buggies. They are lighter so they don't sink as much and they climb like a mountain goat. When I get my financial house in order next year that's probably the first thing I will buy for my job.
203
« on: September 20, 2015, 09:00:08 PM »
I have zero complaints about my 6.7. This is my second one. I had an 07.5 I traded in on this one. ive never dealt with the DEF trucks which I believe are 13 and later. If I hadn't got the letter mine would've been deleted this winter. I wanted to wait till it turned 100k before I did anything and since it turned I haven't really had time to do it. I love my Dodge I just love getting out of debt more.
I've had no issues with the front end in either truck I've owned. I did replace the wheel bearing last week but with 127k on it it's about time for those things to start happening. I don't beat on my trucks but I don't pamper them either. They're good trucks. They're the cheapest 3/4-1tin truck you can buy and I don't think I need to cheer the benefits of the Cummins to anyone on this forum haha. Mine would pull my camper up any hill I wanted to as fast as I dared go. I've pulled the Rockies a few times and pulled all over the Appalachians down through Tennessee and Kentucky and those hills when i lived in Texas.
The recall is due to a tie rod stud that was prone to breaking and causing a rather unsafe condition as you could imagine. Then dodge issued the recall and when people started taking them in dodge didn't have the parts in stock to replace the part. This went on for months and I think some accidents occurred and dodge was probably sued and this buy back is part of the result of that.
204
« on: September 19, 2015, 10:24:38 PM »
Try to get on a cash basis. There is freedom in cash
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Precisely why i decided I'm going to sell. Kill my largest monthly payment and double my savings. It's a no brainier really. Plus this way I can dump Money in the Ford relatively guilt free to fix it up to daily driver status.
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« on: September 19, 2015, 01:10:13 PM »
What??? No Tiger Woods?
That boy's been smoked enough lately!
This made me laugh. 8)
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« on: September 19, 2015, 01:05:32 PM »
The moment I started reading this, the thought came over me to pray over this situation.
Hey, we are asked to pray for all things big and small
Father God, give this man the wisdom to make the best decision in accordance with your will in this matter and for his life, Amen
There, that should do it!
Thank you sir! This is a good problem to have. After talking with my dad and my fiancé I've decided I am going to sell them back for sure. The buyback doesn't start until October 1st so I've got some time and I'm working 7 days a week for a few months so there should be plenty of time to see what others are getting and what the process goes like. I don't know if they will negotiate or not and I also don't know how they will treat my rims and tires and the flatbed on the cab and chassis. I probably need to install the factory wheels and tires back on and I'll have to wait and see what they say about the flatbed. You have to call for a value on the 4500 and they won't be open till Monday. Man it's been a crazy day. I won't need to pull my fifth wheel until the end of the year and I've been sitting here thinking I probably need to get the swap done because the 300k mile IDI might not have enough juice to pull my trailer. I am really digging the idea of the Ford as my only truck. No matter where I go I will always have it with me if I turn it into my tow pig/daily/work truck/zombie ride. So many things to do first though.
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« on: September 19, 2015, 10:01:56 AM »
So some of you know about the recall on certain Dodge trucks. I got my letter in the mail stating that they are buying my trucks back. I have a 2012 Ram 2500 and a 2012 Ram 4500. According to the letter I have the option of getting it fixed for free or them buying it back at "fair market value". They have a link to see what the value is approximately and it's a little low but with the financial bind I've been in I'm pretty sure I'm going to take them up on the offer.
I owe money on the 4500 so that will eliminate my $900/mo payment on it and the 2500 is paid for so I will come out with a decent chunk of change in my pocket. The Ford will be my only truck at that point though. So I will have to pull my 14k pound fifth wheel with the Ford. Unless I decide to get a new one but I really don't want to get out of debt then go right back in.
Lots of things to think about but overall. It's a darn good day.
208
« on: September 10, 2015, 02:28:48 PM »
I know enough about this stuff to be (very!) Dangerous.....but I know a lot of folks use a device in their systems that allows charging of the entire system but limits drawdowns to the "backup" battery so they are never stuck without a charged battery to get the vehicle started. I will go check some sites to find the name of what I am thinking about but I want to say it's a "smart charger" or something like that.
I also just read part of a thread at expo portal about a guy who's alternator failed and he was able to run a decent amount of miles off his solar panel charging his battery. Granted it was in the desert and thus I'm sure he had plenty of sun, but still a decent thing to have in an "uh oh" moment. It's in papawheelie's build thread in the fullsize section if you go there. I had never thought about solar panels from a "safety" perspective before (meaning help me get home) so definitely made me see them in a different light.
Expo Portal is where I got the idea for the solenoid to isolate the batteries. Do you see any issues with just adding the two batteries to the back without them being the same age as long as they were identical specs?
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« on: September 09, 2015, 02:03:14 PM »
That's awesome. Well done sir
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« on: September 09, 2015, 01:36:21 PM »
So I've had the idea of doing something along the lines of what Square D has with an auxiliary battery and solar panels. I'm thinking about taking it to another level though and my reasoning is simple. My RV has both 12 volt and 110 volt systems, as does all other RVs. I was thinking about a solar system for the RV to be able to run the 12 volt systems off grid continuously. This would give me lights and as long as I had propane my furnace. But then I got thinking about the solar generators people advertise which is essentially a battery bank on a dolly with a solar panel.
Then I got thinking why not incorporate that into the ford. When I'm sitting next to the camper I can hook it up to the RV battery to charge it either with the panel or with the engine. So I'm thinking of putting two batteries in the tool box run a solar charge controller and put a 100w panel on the future roof rack. This would also allow me to run an ARB 12 volt fridge in the truck indefinitely. In a grid down scenario having a portable fridge/freezer would be worth it's weight in gold. I'm dropping super hard hints to my girl that's what I want for Christmas and if I don't get one then I will buy one next year anyway.
I have run into some questions though.
My batteries in the ford are about 1.5 years old. I know when you replace the batteries in the truck you should replace both at the same time if I add two identical batteries would I need to replace the two in the truck as well? So they are all the same age? I plan on running a solenoid to charge the back battery bank from the engine when the ignition is on. If I should replace all 4 then I wonder if I should skip hooking them to the truck batteries and run them strictly off solar. I'd rather hook them up so I can have a redundant system for charging but if I didn't hook them up I could use golf cart batteries or some strictly solar batteries.
I think this would be better than a dedicated solar system for the camper because if I ever had to ditch the camper I would have the capability to charge all my small electronics and run the fridge for years without grid power. Or at least until the batteries go out.
Thoughts?
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« on: September 07, 2015, 08:06:40 PM »
It's really wasn't that bad. If I could have worked solid on it I could have knocked it out in a weekend. The first side is where you figure stuff out and the second side you know what to do and what not to do.
Example. When I was putting the drivers side together I put the studs directly into the hub. Then I tried to put the rotor on and realized that the studs have to go through the rotor and then into the hub.
Another on is the sleeve that you install when putting the locking hubs in. I didn't see it in the box and the directions said if applicable or something like that so I assumed mine didn't need it. Then I got out the screw bag and low and behold there were the spacers. So I had to pull it apart to put them in.
On that note for anyone installing the Yukon hubs. When you are putting the gears in and you have to compress the spring while getting the stub shaft splines aligned with the splines on the hub. Take a small straight pick and push along the outer edge of the gears to move the spring down and line it up behind the gears. When you're trying to put the gears in the spring will catch between the lip on the hub and the gears and it won't allow it to go in. If you use the pick to push the spring off of the lip it will slide right in. The first side I did I fought it forever and it finally went by luck, the second side I fought for about 20 minutes till I tried the pick and it went right in.
im so glad this is done. Now I can move on to the more "fun" stuff. Next weekend I'm hopefully going to be able to install the tool box/fuel tank combo and make a mount for the spare in the bed. Then I'm going to continue on the interior because with work it will be a sort of rolling office. I also have a bunch of old stereo gear laying around that I'm going to put to use and get some better tunes.
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« on: September 07, 2015, 02:12:26 PM »
Well just took her for a drive. Feels so much tighter now. My steering wheel is almost upside down when driving straight but other than that it pulls a touch to the left but overall I'm satisfied and feel comfortable taking it back to work.
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« on: September 07, 2015, 12:39:37 PM »
Yeah I just stumbled through it. Got my toe pretty close to 1/8" and my steering wheel is just a touch off. I'm going to mess with the drag link sleeve a bit to see if I can get it straight.
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« on: September 07, 2015, 10:45:16 AM »
Almost got it. You guys said above that I should set the toe to 1/8" in? How do i go about doing that? Where do I get my baseline? I assume once i have it at zero then I can jack up both sides of the front end and turn the adjustment sleeve to get the 1/8". Is it possible to have one side straight and the other side turned out to much? I have the tire off of one side and its a little hard to tell without the tire on but it looks as if the passenger side is turned more than the drivers side. I eyeballed the tie rod and drag link and they are within an 1/8" or so of the pieces I took off. Maybe it will look better when i get the tire on. If it doesn't then i should be able to leave the one tire on the ground and turn the adjustment sleeve which should bring the other one in correct? I'm about ready to put the drag link on but I'm thinking I should leave it off until the toe is set correct? Because it will have to be adjusted depending on where the tie rod sets correct? some pics    
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« on: September 06, 2015, 08:47:46 AM »
I tried to be productive and work on Anvil... I watched the Huskers struggle instead. But the ribs were good and so was the Sam Adams, so not a all bad way to kill a few hours.
Husker game was a heart breaker. But I was impressed that they actually made adjustments and fought back. Teams in the past would have layed over and died. Sucked to get a loss first game but I saw some positive things. I'm still optimistic about the season.
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« on: September 02, 2015, 07:15:59 PM »
Did you guys here the recording of one of the BLM guys saying, and i'm paraphrasing. "The killing of the deputy in Houston is a signal that it is open season on all white folks, crackas, and cops." It was all over talk radio today. kept saying how it was no longer safe to be white in America. Sean Hannity kept playing it over and over along with them chanting Pigs in a blanket fry em like bacon. The whole "movement" has been allowed to get way to far out of control. Its snowballing at this point and I'm afraid it will not end well. It's all been designed to divide the country along racial lines. I'm half thinking now that Trump is in on it by turning Hispanics against Whites. Then you've got Sharpton and the like Fueling the black on white hatred and what we have is an extremely volatile situation that could explode with one idiot from any side doing something stupid.
If you really want to feel your blood boil look up FYF911.
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« on: September 02, 2015, 06:19:40 PM »
I actually just saw something about that Jesus nut come across my FB the other day. I follow a bunch of aviation pages on there. It's mind boggling to think that the whole mess is held on with one nut.
We've used the multipliers on some bolt ups I've done in the past. Our multiplier was made by CAT and the torque wrench they use on those is about 4' long.
I would hope the Jesus nut on a helicopter I'm in was definately good and tight haha.
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« on: September 02, 2015, 02:46:40 PM »
That's about as big as we go for bolting applications. I think that was a 3 7/8" socket. We sometimes have to tension the bolt instead of tourqeing. Have a machine that gradually stretches the bolt them the nuts are threaded up tight.
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« on: September 02, 2015, 02:44:27 PM »
"That'll buff out"
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« on: September 01, 2015, 09:10:57 PM »
Pvc pipe sealed with glued on caps accomplishes the same thing. If you are digging it up things have gone wrong just remember oxysorb when you seal them. You can get a disassembled Ak and several rounds in a 6 inch pvc
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The standard answer to that from all the other forums I frequent is "if its time to bury them its time to use them" Although burying other things for various reasons is where these come in handy.
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« on: September 01, 2015, 08:35:56 PM »
Awesome as usual. A little bit excited to see it com alive. 
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« on: September 01, 2015, 07:56:37 PM »
For those who may have a couple too many beers on occasion. V8 splash fruit juice is the best hang over cure ever.
On that note. Milk thistle is a pretty good hangover deterrent, take a few capsules a few hours before you start drinking.
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« on: September 01, 2015, 07:53:46 PM »
On a 2.5" bolt. I got moved around to supervise another crew today and thought you guys might like to see this.  Air over hydraulic torque wrench.  28 bolts on each side of a 36" main line valve. This line will run upwards of 1500PSI when in service.
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« on: August 30, 2015, 06:18:09 PM »
Thanks guys. I'm already over half way done with the other side. It goes so much faster after you've done one side. The hardest thing was the ball joints and even that wasn't that hard.
The hubs are money. They have such a positive feel to them. Dealing with locking hubs growing up they always felt as if they were about to break when you were turning them. These are firm but smooth if that makes sense. They have a solid click when you engage or disengage them. I've read they can be a little tough to disengage after using them so I will have to see if there is any validity to that claim after they get some use. I've also heard that the reason people have a hard time disengaging them was due to people having them in a bind still after using 4wd and due to not enough grease. I packed a whole bunch of grease in them so that won't be an issue for me.
Hopefully this thing will be back on the road Tuesday night. Probably won't be able to take it to work immediately because it will probably need an alignment after I replace all the tie rods and everything. I have those removed and I assembled the new ones as close as I could to the old ones length so I'm hoping they are close to be able to take it for a test drive to verify function.
After all the running gear work I'm thinking I need some cosmetic work next. Probably try to paint it next week.
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« on: August 29, 2015, 07:19:56 PM »
VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!! Blind luck got the pin in the lock ring on the second try tonight. Now for the fun pretty stuff. More gear from my main man El Tate   The locking hubs went together super easy and came apart super easy as well. I had to disassemble them when I forgot to install the spacer. that minor setback aside. They are installed and they work!   Then the new brake pads and the caliper installed.  i was hoping to get to the other side tomorrow but i have to go in to work for an overnight shift to watch over the hydrostatic testing so I think Im going to take it easy tomorrow and rest up. One overnight will wreck me for the week but I'm trying to make a hand for the new company so I can continue to work next year. With the economy as uncertain as it is a man can't really ever turn down work.
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« on: August 29, 2015, 10:24:39 AM »
I've been thinking you need some rock sliders/steps that tie into the bumpers with tube. Arched up around the fender well. I've been designing that in my head for the ford. Would allow the arch nemesis Kia to inflict less damage.
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« on: August 28, 2015, 08:33:36 PM »
Here is how that works....I got to the shop, made a template for the mounting brackets, cut and drilled them. Then I measured and cut and welded on a piece of angle at the desired height across said brackets. Then I braced the winch up there and put it where I want it. Then I sat in my lawn chair and stared at it pointlessly for an hour.
I have no ideas in my head how I want it to look, I know how I want it to function. So.... bumper block LoL
Maybe latter something will come to me.
The same thing happens to me on almost every creative project i undertake. I spend more time staring at it then I do working on it.
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« on: August 28, 2015, 08:05:33 PM »
OK need some help. I got my wheel studs and got the hub on the spindle.  I set the bearing preload to 50 lb/ft and backed off a quarter turn. Now for the life of me I can't get the lock ring to line up with the stud on the inner nut.  Is there a trick I should know? how can i be sure that my pre load is still set if I have to keep moving the inner nut around trying to get it to line up? please tell me there is an easier way besides wiggle the lock in there, pull it out, move nut, repeat until I'm ready to kick something.
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« on: August 27, 2015, 05:58:49 AM »
So sorry for your loss.
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« on: August 26, 2015, 07:32:00 PM »
I'm spending more time waiting on parts than working on this thing at this point. I got my new/used hubs in and set to work yesterday after I got home. The hubs came with the old bearings and races in them so i got to work removing those and I have to say this is the second set I've removed and I am getting quite good at it, by the time I work on the passenger side I expect this to be similar to a NASCAR pit stop.  Ive had my races chilling in the freezer for the past week so I put the hub into my hub heating oven and prepared to install them.  I'm not sure the freezing and heating part even did anything. When I read about that method I had envisioned the race freely dropping into its seat and then magically expanding to a perfect install. Not so much, I still had to use the old race and a hammer to get them set in place so I doubt I will do that again. Then I got out the wheel bearings and prepared to get them packed and installed when I realized I had no wheel studs on the hub. Figured it wasn't a good idea to be pounding wheel studs in with the bearings in it so I called it quits for the day.  Today I woke up went to work then started ordering brake parts. I got new rotors and a new set of pads and also ordered 8 new wheel studs. Went in after work to pick them up and I ordered rear studs instead of front and of course they don't have them in stock for the front. When I asked him how long to get them in he said 4-5 days. What in this world takes 4-5 days to get? I would have ordered them from NAPA, but they keep bankers hours and I definitely don't work bankers hours. Tomorrow Im going to sneak away from work and run to NAPA to see if they have them. If not at least I know I will have them by the weekend. Got the rotors and pads though.  I am correct in assuming that if I replace the rotors I should replace the studs?
232
« on: August 24, 2015, 07:26:12 PM »
Well if the last few days stock market "correction" doesn't lead you to believe somethings coming I don't know what will.
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« on: August 24, 2015, 07:22:39 PM »
Thanks guys. I'm hoping to one day build a bar with a shadow box type top that I can display things like these in. Have to have a house first though.
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« on: August 24, 2015, 07:13:17 PM »
Yes, inner tube seal directly against the bearing cap. Are you leaking now?
It leaked for a little bit when I first pulled the axles then stopped. Its not perfectly level at the moment.
235
« on: August 24, 2015, 07:11:26 PM »
Small Update. I put this together as I have parts coming in so It's slower than id like. It seems that each step only takes me a few minutes but overall its taken me two weeks to get to this point. I should have everything ready for the other side though when it comes time for that unless a spindle is messed up. Even if it is though Tate is drop shipping me parts from KY so i get them next day when i order through him. Just waiting on the new/used hub to show up and I can install and pack the new wheel bearings and drivers side will be complete. I'm going to replace my rotors and pads as well while I have it apart. The rotors are pretty wore and they might be able to turn them but for $50 i figure what the heck. I'm already into this for a whole lot of money so whats another fiddy? Kind of hard to see but here is the depth the rotors are worn.  Here is the axle installed in the housing waiting for the spindle, with a liberal coating of anti-seize should I ever have to go down this road again I don't want to fight it.  And finally all torqued down and ready to go.  And my most recent Amazon order came in, I needed headlight bulbs for the Dodge and some Rage body filler for some final touch ups on the Ford. figured i would throw this on there for good measure. Old school gun rack for the back window!  It will mostly be used for my hard hat but just figured it would be period correct for this year of truck.
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« on: August 24, 2015, 06:48:55 PM »
ohhhh daddy likey.
And what a coincidence that my next purchase may very well be a 17.
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« on: August 23, 2015, 07:16:01 PM »
Greetings Jon and welcome.
And the mandatory GBR for the fellow Nebraskan.
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« on: August 23, 2015, 07:07:11 PM »
Figured I would bump this back up with my small collection. I'll post the ones I know for sure the model and details. The UP of MI is a hot bed for custom knives. There are several manufacturers within a 100 mile radius all putting out superb blades. When I lived there and every time I visit I seem to acquire another one. Sometimes I buy it or sometimes it hitches a ride home with me from my dads house. First is my pride and joy. Bark River Bravo 1Overall Length: 9.065in/23.03cm Blade Length: 4.25in/10.79cm Blade Steel: A-2, CPM 3V, S25VN Steel Thickness: .215in/5.5mm Weight: 7.375 oz Hardness: 59RC  Bark River Little Creek A2Overall Length: 5.5 in/13.97 cm Blade Length: 2.65 in/6.73 cm Cutting Edge: 2.3 in/5.84 cm Blade Steel: A-2, CPM 3V Steel Thickness: .145 in/3.68 mm Weight: 2.125 oz Hardness: 58RC  Bark River HunstmanOverall Length: 7 in/17.78 cm Blade Length: 3.25 in/8.26 cm Blade Steel: A-2 Steel Thickness: .187 in/4.7 mm Weight: 3.5oz Hardness: 58RC  Commemorative Bark RiverDon't actually know what model this one is. My dad won it at a Turkey Banquet some years ago.  Random Northwoods Kinife Rapid River Knifeworks Mini Caper 154CM Hess Knifeworks Mini Caper Ontario RAT 3 Buck 119 i think thats all of my fixed blades except my Mora which is MIA after the move. Now i have to wipe these back down with oil and put them away again. Need every excuse I can to get them out.
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« on: August 23, 2015, 12:56:42 PM »
You were right the ball joints went on without a hitch. A lot easier job than I was expecting, the press I rented made it smooth.  Im ready to install the axles now but is there an axle seal where I'm pointing?  I don't recall one coming out when i took it apart but with the condition of the other stuff it may have needed one but it was missing. When I pulled the axle I started losing gear oil out of the tube so If I just put the axle back in i'm thinking that gear oil will still want to come out. I googled info about the seal and apparently there is a seal that they came up with for that area but I sure didn't have one when i took it out.
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« on: August 23, 2015, 07:59:27 AM »
So I'm still waiting on hubs so I decided to go ahead and start on the ball joints. I got them pressed out and new ones pressed in and now I'm ready to install the knuckle back on the axle. Do I just put the stud of the ball joint into the C on the axle until I can get the nut started then suck them up with a socket? I can get my impact on the top nut so can I use the impact to tighten that one which should in theory pull the lower one into position? Is that the proper way?
Edit:
I just read the insert that comes with the ball joints and they had the torque procedure on them. I guess that answers my question. Hand tighten them in the C and then run em down to the torque required. It's calling for 150# on the lower and 69# on the upper final torque. Am does that sound right?
241
« on: August 22, 2015, 04:00:58 PM »
That is a nice knife. I've heard of them but never handled one. VG10 steel? Is that stainless?
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« on: August 22, 2015, 02:01:47 PM »
I have this as my go to hunting/zombie/end of the world knife. So yeah it just sits in the safe and looks pretty. It's made up by where my dad lives in MI. I actually have several bark rivers because they are really well built knives. And I like supporting local businesses. http://www.barkriverknives.com/index/series/search-rescue-2/bravo-1/I also have a mora that went with me everywhere in the oil field. Super sharp and held an edge well. We cut a five gallon bucket with it one time and it dulled it a bit but nothing major.
243
« on: August 21, 2015, 11:13:24 AM »
I planned to make a fixture with a clevis welded to it. That way I could run the pin through the clevis which was bolted to the jack to stabilize it and make sure it did not pop off while I was napping underneath the truck
That's a really good idea. The hi-lift jacks are super handy but also really dangerous. My first boss used them all the time for lifting the tounges of trailers and such and I got a lecture about never standing over the handle at any time. My moms boyfriend had a handle of one slip out of his hand and smack him straight in the mouth. Broke his jaw had to have it wired shut. I hated the guy so can't say I was too upset but still never want to see someone hurt like that.
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« on: August 21, 2015, 11:07:28 AM »
So I'm sitting here thinking about what to do with the IDI after I swap the 12 valve into my truck. The hit and miss engine thread got me thinking.
What would be a good way to repurpose the engine? I know I can sell it for 500-1000 but is there something I could do with it that would be more worthwhile? without the tranny it would be one speed of course. I looked up some generator heads and a 15kw head only needs 18-25hp to run. The idi is rated at I think 190 so that's a bit overkill. Any other ideas?
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« on: August 21, 2015, 07:55:05 AM »
I've followed this very closely but I don't recall seeing any jacking points on the bumper. Did you build any flat spots into the bumper for that purpose?
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« on: August 19, 2015, 06:04:14 PM »
Broken Bow is where my mom lives. I graduated fe HS in Dunning.
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« on: August 19, 2015, 01:34:16 PM »
What area of NE did you grow up in? My family has been in NE for awhile also. As to your hit and miss engines. I worked with an old school pipeline mechanic for a lot of years. He used to collect old engines and every time an old engine and tractor show would come around he and I would go. While I am too young to ever see these in actual use there was always demonstrations at the shows. You are 100% right that they can do so many things. I saw them do all the things you mentioned and probably more I don't remember. Old school tech is the ultimate preparation. It would be so useful for any type of emergency alps as well as being able to go off grid.
Also old tractors with the attachment to run the long leather belts to operate all the same machinery. Not as efficient as a hit and miss but who couldn't use a tractor? Only downfall I can see is they can be kind of dangerous to start. He told me stories of getting launched into the air while trying to start an engine with a huge flywheel.
This is the same guy who got me into black smithing. As soon as I get a set location to live with room to get out my anvil and build a forge I will start a thread on that subject.
248
« on: August 18, 2015, 03:09:17 PM »
Yeah but like my girl said at least I found out now and not when a bearing decided to let loose and strand me in who knows where.
Tate got me all fixed up with a new spindle and a lead on some new hubs. They were so cheap I did buy two. Hoping the other spindle is in good shape.
I should thank you Don this forum has saved me a boat load of money on this project thus far. I'm going to end up with a nicely built axle for about the same price as a stock rebuild when I'm done. I'm starting to come out of the closet a little bit too........
I have a small obsession with sled pulling. This front axle will definately serve me well if I decide to go down that road in the future.
What did you think I was going to say?
249
« on: August 18, 2015, 02:36:16 PM »
Well I rained out today due to a flood last night. It was kind of misting and cloudy so i was super excited to get to work on the Ford all day today. i went by Autozone and rented all the tools I thought I might need and headed home set for a good day. I got the spindle off and axle and stub shaft out. i had to take the axle to a local shop to get the U-joint pressed out but after that I was good to go. Layed out next to the BEEFY Yukon gear El Tate hooked me up with.  And with the new Ujoint and new 35 spline stub shaft.  Then I set about finishing tearing down the hub and spindle to start building it back up. Thats when I started really cleaning everything with brake cleaner and looking closely at what I have. What I have is a pretty wore out hub and a tore up spindle.    Disappointed to say the least, Think I will change the name from Zombie to Money Pit F-350 Talked to El Tate and he gave me a couple options so I have to figure out how I want to proceed. I need this done as the truck is on blocks in my parking lot. And I'm actually thinking about ordering two while I'm at it for the other side. That way I don't have to wait when I get into the other side next week.
250
« on: August 17, 2015, 09:10:44 PM »
Well the real work begins. I got my AC fixed, was a low pressure switch combined with low R134. Its blowing 38* out of the vents so thats good. Decided to start tearing apart the axles. My girl goes back to TX for work on Sunday so I figured if I got it started I could finish it after she leaves which leaves me two weeks of evenings to complete other projects. I came apart relatively easy. Until I got to the spindle. Its stuck on like crazy. Im going to go to Autozone to rent a slide hammer i think unless someone knows an easier way to remove them?  I got one of the races out easily and the other one was moving fairly well but it got kind of late and didn't want to completely neglect my girl and didn't want to annoy my neighbors beating on it. There is some residue around where the seal was. Any ideas on what it could be? Part of it is green like the seal came apart and there is a yellow substance almost looks like old silicone or the like.  My ball joints aren't as bad as I thought they were, in fact everything that I have taken out has been pretty decent except for the one seal I got to. I might as well do the ball joints anyway so I know where I stand and I will know everything else is tip top when i get done.
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