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Messages - Bear9350
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801
« on: March 30, 2016, 03:02:13 PM »
Alright, it seems like it is unanimous. I'll plan on getting a trigger. From the little research I have done it sounds like one of the plusses for the Jewel triggers is that they are packaged in such a away I should be able to install my self safely, correct.
802
« on: March 29, 2016, 07:20:27 PM »
I used my circ saw with the diamond blade to cut a bunch of concrete in my basement last summer. I was surprised with how fast and easy it cut. There was a lot of dust though.
803
« on: March 29, 2016, 03:46:20 PM »
That's only a cheap gun because it lacks things of a more expensive rifle. Captain obvious, huh? By that I mean you add to it as money allows and you'll end up with a very capable weapon system. The Remy 700 action is the basis for the vast majority of precision rifles. Add a trigger. Improve your groups. Hand load and improve your groups. When the barrel is worn out install a new barrel and blueprint the action. Greatly improve your groups. Then add furniture of your choice and a big ole honking telescope. You have a rifle that will rival anything on the planet in similar caliber.
So the good news is you don't lose any money investing as you go and you get to use up the factory barrel while improving your skills, making you ready to maximize your new found hardware accuracy when the time comes.
Keep up the good work
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That was the initial plan but the more I read about the Remington SPS the more I was questioning if it made since to do that or just invest in a better gun. The two big improvements I could see myself making first would be the trigger and the stock. In the meantime I will just keep shooting it.
804
« on: March 29, 2016, 03:38:46 PM »
The real debate for me is left vs right side blade...
I've only really seen the left handed saws common on the smaller cordless saws. I wonder if the larger saws might throw a little more saw dust at you making it more difficult to see/cut.
805
« on: March 29, 2016, 03:36:31 PM »
I have a Bosch that doesn't have a cord. It has a male plug that you use a regular extinction cord with. Nothing like a 100' cord on you saw. It is a great saw.
Does it lock in somehow? Any problems with it coming unplugged while making a cut. I could see it being nice not having the plug there being able to get caught on a corner or something while making a cut.
806
« on: March 29, 2016, 02:57:42 PM »
I have used a couple of the battery powered left handed ones. I think they give a better view of what you are doing for shorter cuts. When ripping longer pieces/ cutting plywood etc the right hand saws are setup to keep the base of the saw on the material you are cutting I think.
I have all Milwaukee tools for the most part. No problems with any of them and would recommend them.
807
« on: March 29, 2016, 02:51:55 PM »
Bear, not picking on you. Just an recollection of many an Internet marksmen but I love how many a "marksman" I've encountered likes to throw out "the outlier" or call 3 shots a group. In the real world an outlier is still a miss in 10-15mph crosswind at 800. The steel rings or it doesn't. Or for you real been there done that types, it's a kill or it's not which can get innocents/friendlies hurt or killed if you miss the shot.
Your groups are great with a factory rifle and factory ammo. I would invest in a high quality trigger as it has the biggest return on investment. From there you argue about 1/8ths and each 1/8th costs about $1000
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No worries. The main reason I bought this gun was to shoot it and improve my skills, I know they are not there yet. I was just trying to give an accurate representation of what I think the gun would is capable. At this point the gun is more capable than I am. I've been thinking about adding a better trigger but I've been doing some reading and I'm not sure how much more money I want to stick into this relatively cheap gun. I'll probably just keep shooting as is for now. I generally base my groups of 5 shoots, that seems like the bare minimum to me. As and engineer the number 30 is thrown around a lot for these types of things. Generally an average of 30 repetitions of whatever you have is a good statistical representation of the actual process.
808
« on: March 29, 2016, 08:57:56 AM »
Let us know how it shoots after you get 100rds through it or so. My son's 700 varmint never shot better than POB @100 yrds "point of barn" 2.42" the best group it shot.
In fact he just had it re barreled and trued and the usual smiting done...I will let you know how that turned out when he gets out to shoot it. I will say the "smith" was less than impressed with the mess when he started.
Shot it again yesterday after getting the scope re-mounted with a new rail and scope mounts. Rounds 60-80 I think. I had a five shoot group at 1.7". There was one flyer that I new was off as soon as I squeezed. If I throw that one out it would have been a 0.8" group at 100 yards. These were 20 rounds of American Eagle 150 gr FMJ BT stuff from a coworker. They have another 840 rounds for sale and asking $.75/rd for it. Might try to talk them down some on the price and pick it up.
809
« on: March 28, 2016, 11:17:16 AM »
It was fairly old and the whole spool seemed to be the same way. My heat is as high as it will go. I have just been running the beads pretty fast on the plate. I could probably get a hotter bead if I stayed in one place a little while longer before moving.
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I just went up and read where you said you had it cranked all the way up. The pickling on that thicker steel can be thick. If you haven't been I would suggest grinding down to raw steel on those surfaces. Also, if you have been welding on the truck, taking the bumper off and making horizontal welds instead of vertical will give you more penetration and better control.
810
« on: March 28, 2016, 10:55:41 AM »
Just brand. Same .035 flux core. This HF stuff is much darker color than the Hobart. The Hobart is silver. I even double checked to make sure I didn't have non flux core Hobart. But they are both the same specs.
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How old was the old wire? If it sat around for a little while some corrosion will start to build up on the first few layers on a spool. It might take a little while to burn up that wire and then clean all the corrosion out so everything runs good again. Looking at the pics it does look like you might be able to crank the heat up a bit. I'm not a very good arm chair welder though. Would have to be there running and hearing it to give you any decent advice on where your settings should be. I know I have ran smaller spools of both HF and Hobart wire when I wanted something for a project that required smaller than the .035 I generally run. I'm always running solid wire though. I'm not sure what the brand of wire I get from the AirGas dealer is. I just puck up a couple 44 lb spools when I am running low. Given the current steel prices I should probable look into stocking up.
811
« on: March 16, 2016, 08:15:33 AM »
I don't think a jointer would be appropriate for 2x4 and plywood shelving and tables. If you are going to start making some cabinets out of hardwood lumber and are thinking about not leaving the drywall screws exposed in the trim work then a jointer works great for some wicked strong joints.
812
« on: March 11, 2016, 11:24:13 PM »
20 MOA is fine. Remember, you use elevation to zero the rifle. So you'll zero the rifle with the turret biased towards to top of the travel, which will give you an additional 20moa of downward travel. No problem zeroing the rifle at 100 with a 20moa rail. Have them on all my precision rifles.
I was talking to a co worker after I posted and realized I was thinking about it wrong. It just moves the zero up in the scope to give you more adjustment down.
813
« on: March 11, 2016, 02:38:46 PM »
http://www.badgerordnance.com/remington-long-action-scope-rail.html
take a look at this rail system. I use this on my rifles. Gets you 20MOA built in elevation and you can move the scope forward as needed to make the relief work
I started looking into rails. I'm wondering if a 20MOA would be appropriate for what I want to do with this gun. Nearly all of my shooting will be within 600 yards I think and some out to 800. By my figuring I would be shooting nearly two feet high between 250 and 550 yards? Does that seem correct? I graphed what I am imagining in one of the trajectory vs. line of sight charts you put up. I am thinking I must be missing something. The blue and green lines are what I imagine the new line of sight would be with a 10 and 20MOA adjustment respectively. 
814
« on: March 08, 2016, 12:44:22 PM »
Off road and ULSD are the same except for the die. I have been told that it comes from the same place at the refinery and the die is added to the tanker. Not sure if that is actually true. HHO is similar to diesel but not refined as much. A couple winters ago I ran out of HHO oil a couple days before the new propane furnace was to be installed so I dumped some off-road diesel in it to get through. But as a couple other people had stated I wouldn't put HHO oil in my Dmax engine.
815
« on: March 07, 2016, 03:15:29 PM »
Nice. Only reason I heard about Lodi is apparently they do a 1000 yd shooting match down there. But haven't heard when it is or really anything about it.
Looks like they have a 1200 yard range.
816
« on: March 07, 2016, 10:08:50 AM »
I would need to make a special trip to get out to 800 and I'm not even sure where I could find a 1000 right now.
Lodi apparently has the 1000 yd range.
Good to know. I have 600 yards of the back porch of the house and at the hunting shack. We also have a couple spots around the farm where I am sure I could get up to 800 yards. We do have a couple 40 acre fields that we remove the fence lines on. Straight across would be 800 yards about so I might be able to find one where I could safely shoot 1000 from corner to corner or something. Not sure.
817
« on: March 07, 2016, 08:43:41 AM »
Thanks for running these. I knew the 175 and 185 would look a lot better further out but I doubt I will be ready to shoot that far for a while. I have a couple spots were I can reach out to 600 available. I would need to make a special trip to get out to 800 and I'm not even sure where I could find a 1000 right now. I picked up the 165 gr Hornady Spire Points last night and will start with those I think.
818
« on: March 02, 2016, 01:38:26 PM »
I am glad it is fixed for you. But it still doesn't make any sense. Changing tires shouldn't have any affect on the electrical systems.
It is possible that there was a broken belt or something wrong with one of those tires and it wasn't noticed until the tire was rotated from rear to front. Did anything seem not right on either of the tires you took off?
819
« on: March 01, 2016, 10:11:18 AM »
Let us know how it shoots after you get 100rds through it or so. My son's 700 varmint never shot better than POB @100 yrds "point of barn" 2.42" the best group it shot.
In fact he just had it re barreled and trued and the usual smiting done...I will let you know how that turned out when he gets out to shoot it. I will say the "smith" was less than impressed with the mess when he started.
2.5" was about it was shooting Sunday. Put 40 rounds through it so far. Cleaned it for the second time last night. Hoping to put some more rounds through it this week yet then swap a different scope onto it and see what happens.
820
« on: February 29, 2016, 01:12:54 PM »
Try emailing Vortex, and see what they say. Might allow you to do an upgrade or something. You aren't far from their HQ are you?
I will do that and I will probably swap one of my Nikon scopes on it to see what I think.
821
« on: February 29, 2016, 11:39:33 AM »
What type of speeds are we talking when this happens? It seems odd that a tire would just so happen to go bad after they did work on it. If you can, try and repeat and then turn the Traction Control off and try to repeat again. See if it is in the Traction Control system.
822
« on: February 29, 2016, 11:30:34 AM »
Yeah he gave me his maintenance log... belts have been replaced.
Yes, in 2016, the x350 replaced the x300. With the spring sale that ended today, I had a quote for 3500 otd for an x350 with the bagging unit. None of the Deere dealers around had any x300 2015 models left, except the rear bagger ones but I didn't want one of those.
The rear bagging units work really great if you want to bag all the time. They are designed especially for bagging wetter grass. Mostly they are sold in Europe where they have a wetter climate and then some in Washington state and northern Oregon. Dealers in the other states generally don't carry/ never sell them. I would think you should still be pretty happy with your purchase though. If the battery is still the OEM battery it is probably due to be replaced also.
823
« on: February 29, 2016, 11:19:55 AM »
Can that happen if they didn't reset the TPMS sensors when they rotated the tires?
824
« on: February 29, 2016, 10:18:23 AM »
Shot it this weekend. No pics as I wasn't real impressed with it. Hoping it was a combination of the cheap ammo I bought and not breaking the barrel in yet and not me or the gun.
I think I might try returning the scope too. I was just wearing a flannel and light jacket shooting yesterday and couldn't get the lens far enough away from my eye without pulling my head back. The scope seems to have a decent amount of eye relief, just not where I need it.
825
« on: February 29, 2016, 10:10:36 AM »
That is a nice mower at a pretty decent price. If it is the original belt on the mower yet you may want to be ready to replace it. You should be able to put twice that many hours on the rest of it without much issue though.
I'm curious what you were pricing out when you were looking at a new unit. Was it an old 2015 or the new 2016 models. The X3 and X5 tractors and decks have a lot of new stuff for this years model.
826
« on: February 26, 2016, 01:32:10 PM »
Forgive my ignorance Dave, but why the extra "grill" on the grill? Easy cleanup?
Maybe to keep all the chicken fat from causing flare ups? I know when I grill chicken there is generally a near steady blaze going on under them.
827
« on: February 24, 2016, 03:46:31 PM »
So, you get hayfever?
Hay is a generic term for bailed feed. There's alfalfa hay, bermuda hay, etc.
Now, come to think of it, I've never heard anyone ask for straw hay....just a bale of straw. hmmm my head hurts again.
Just like hay you can have oat straw, barley straw, wheat straw etc. Hay is harvested with the intent of feeding. Generally it is more grass like. It is cut at a certain time while it is still green and has nutrients in it, generally dried in the field and then bailed or somehow collected off the field. In my area oats are commonly planted. When the oat seeds (grain) dries on the plant it is harvested. The stalk of the plant is left in the field. If that by-product is bailed it would be called a bail of straw. Straw generally comes from your grain plants.
829
« on: February 19, 2016, 10:31:43 AM »
This link was floating around work a couple days ago. Kind of interesting and makes you think.
830
« on: February 16, 2016, 09:05:33 AM »
Scope and mounts arrived yesterday. I ordered the "Game Reaper" scope mount from DNZ. It is a one piece aluminum mount so I didn't need to worry about alignment.  The scope rings also have a lot more thread engagement then most scope rings do to keep everything tight.  I went with there low height version. I emailed them with my gun and scope specs and asked if I needed low or medium. They said low should work. I just have clearance to the barrel. The scope covers that came with it don't fully fit between the lens and barrel. If I screw the sun shade on that came with the scope the covers fit though.  With the low mounted scope it will be a little more difficult to load as it is a top load. I was a little concerned that the one piece mount might interfere also but I don't thin it will be a problem. I might consider purchasing a conversion kit to change it to a detachable mag.  The Vortex scope seemed clear even cranked up to the 18 power magnification. There was a generous amount of eye relief also. I was able to push the scope nearly as far forward as possible in the scope mounts. I was happy with everything so I plan to take it apart some time this week and torque everything down correctly. I will hopefully have time to get to the range this weekend to sight it in and see how it shoots.  I had to do all this on the kitchen table. I've been busy with the remodel etc.. and haven't had time to set my bench back up in the basement. Need to get that done soon though so I can load some rounds up.
831
« on: February 11, 2016, 09:39:14 AM »
Picked up a 36 gun Stack On last night. Nothing special but I was on a bit of a budget and also have limited amount of space to put it in the office. It will atleast offer a little bit of protection and give me a place to put them all. It didn't come with one but I plan to get something with pockets in the door. Some place to store mags and extra shot gun barrels.  
832
« on: February 11, 2016, 08:08:46 AM »
If you haven't already purchased or started cutting your plywood if might be worth it to try and find some BC rated plywood. Your GS1 is AC (A is the sanded side and C is the side with knots). The B side of the BC plywood isn't sanded but there aren't any knots in it.
It looks like you guys might rate your plywood a little different. I'm guessing the stuff with all the knots you looked at was rated MDO2 or MDO1? I think the stuff you might want to look for is SEL or if you are planning on painting the walls you could do SEL TF I think.
833
« on: February 09, 2016, 12:32:52 PM »
I think I have settled on the Vortex Crossfire 2 in 6-18x44. My uncle has a set if the binoculars and likes them. The reviews seem to look good also. I have heard great things about there lifetime warranty. There headquarters are here in WI and also where there manufacturing facility is. http://www.opticsplanet.com/vortex-crossfire-ii-6-18x44-ao-rifle-scope.html
834
« on: February 08, 2016, 01:25:59 PM »
You might want to consider running something a little larger than 3/4". 1" isn't that much more expensive but it does give you a lot more area to run wires through.
835
« on: February 08, 2016, 09:45:21 AM »
Not sure yet. I just put a Nikon Prostaff 4-12x40 on the .223. For $190 it is a good scope with clear lens but I think I may want something with a little higher power.
836
« on: February 08, 2016, 09:00:22 AM »
Stopped in to Scheel's yesterday to check out there gun safe options. Now that the remodel on the house is finishing up I want to have a designated place for the firepower.
On the way out I browsed through the rifles and ran across the Rem Model 700 Varmint I thinking about. Picked it up to look at it to find out the one they had was in .308 and the price tag they had on it matched the best deal I was able to find online. So it came home with me.
For a factory trigger I don't think it is half bad. It has Remington's adjustable trigger on it (I don't recall what they call it) that can be adjusted down to 2.5 lbs I think and it feels fairly crisp. I'm hoping to get a scope on it and have it ready to send some lead down range in two weeks when I head back up north for the weekend.
837
« on: February 04, 2016, 01:34:56 PM »
I personally don't have one but I have an uncle and couple of cousins who do. They mostly use it for squirrels and the like.
838
« on: February 04, 2016, 10:22:41 AM »
They started insulation on Thursday and they were just pulling out Friday afternoon around 3:30 when I got home from work. The goal was to get as much drywall hung over the weekend as possible. I had enough people to split up in two crews. One working upstairs finishing up the walls ( ceiling was already done before the blown in cellulose went in the attic) and the other downstairs working on the ceiling.  By the end of the first day most of the ceiling was done downstairs and the majority of the walls were done upstairs.  It took me the next two weeks and a weekend to finish hanging drywall in all the corners. I was in the house working until 3:00 AM finishing up the last bits and clearing the house out for the crew to come in to do all the tape/ mud work. That was one job I new I didn't want to attempt myself.
840
« on: February 03, 2016, 09:17:59 AM »
I run .035 in my welder most of the time but that is solid wire with a 80-20 mix. It's a challenge welding thin wall tubing but can be done with patience. It has been a long time since I have ran flux wire. There would be less wire there but not sure how much easier it would be.
I think .035 flux would work ok but it would be easier to weld with something smaller. Up to you if you want to try it or not. A 2# spool probably runs $15 - $20 for flux core I think and you should be able to find it an most home improvement and farm and fleet stores. They might not have as large of a selection/ size range as some of the weld supply stores though. Look at your welder first and see what the smallest wire your welder can take is. I have to swap a bunch of stuff out to run anything smaller than .030 on mine but it is a much larger unit than you have.
I have borrowed a buddies cheap $90 welder and ran .023 flux core before to do the exhaust on a truck. It worked really slick.
841
« on: February 03, 2016, 08:21:31 AM »
What wire diameter are you running? For real thin walled tubing like exhaust the smaller wire you have easier it will be. If your not running the smallest wire your rig can handle it may be worth it to pick a small spool up.
As everybody else said take it rather slow. Tack it good all the way around first or you will have a large gap to fill when it starts pulling. As stated if that happens you will have a hard time filling that gap in thin wall. On the thinner stuff I generally like to use a half arc pattern pointing the heat back into the weld.
If you have some scrap to get it dialed in you shouldn't have a problem welding it all in as long of passes as you are physically able to get the torch to. Do make sure your surface are cleaned up well with a wire wheel.
842
« on: February 02, 2016, 11:49:48 PM »
I would go with the timken brand also.
843
« on: February 01, 2016, 08:08:36 AM »
May not be a bad idea to look at the pitman and idler while you are at it.
844
« on: January 31, 2016, 02:52:12 PM »
I like the stance. Lifted and looks good but still practical.
845
« on: January 29, 2016, 10:25:58 AM »
I've built a few bumpers for the 01/02 Chevs. I don't think I have any pics on my website but I know I have a few around some place. I wouldn't be able to match there pricing to ship you any steel but if you have access to somebody with a laser (a cnc plasma would work of too) I wouldn't mind emailing you the .dxf file for one. It would cut all the pieces you would need. You would then have to fit them together like a puzzle. It is a lot of welding and grinding but they turn out pretty good.
846
« on: January 26, 2016, 10:21:16 AM »
As soon as the plumbing was ran the full upstairs bath was plumbed. A toilet was hooked up with a laundry tub being used as a sink. Also the shower was hooked up and fully functional. We had been showering in the camper shower all summer so it was nice to be use a full sized shower with no limits on hot water again. The wife was extremely happy about that. When the plumbing, electric done we started putting drywall on the ceiling of the second floor. The following week the HVAC was finally routed and the furnace operational. At the end of the week the crew to insulate came in. They blew cellulose into the attic of the main house and spray foamed everything else. We had all the walls foamed and the roof of the addition foamed also. Because of the attic trusses it would have been difficult to get an adequate amount of insulation and enough air flow in this area. We decided it would just be better to foam up the wall and straight to the peak. 
847
« on: January 26, 2016, 10:10:55 AM »
That is similar to around here. Most places you would hit some water around 30 ft or so. Good water around 100. Of course it varies some only need to go to 50 to get good water and some are around 300. I would guess since I am so close to the great lakes it we have good water closer to the surface than some places.
848
« on: January 26, 2016, 03:29:34 AM »
Wow. my bro in law is at 630 here in Texas. Thats nice.
Is that normal? Up here 300 is real deep. A lot of people are around 100.
849
« on: January 25, 2016, 03:18:11 PM »
110 feet deep is still nice and shallow, so it must not have been too expensive. My well is 380 feet deep and is similar to others around this area of IL and IA. Someone once told me that our aquifer is actually water that originates in Canada somewhere.
Total was about $5500 I think. That was with new pump, pressure tank and capping the old well. The old pressure tank was underground with the well. Cheaper than I had originally thought it would be. No 100 ft isn't real deep but it is still much improved on what we had.
850
« on: January 25, 2016, 03:14:12 PM »
There is fire retardant plywood. Not sure how it compares to drywall. Pricey compared to normal plywood and drywall too.
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