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Messages - JR

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Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 11, 2015, 01:07:17 PM »
I got the idea here. Thanks Duane  ;D

Did a few searches and here we are!

I have had to boost a few batteries to before they would charge. I normally just grab a little charger like you see, have boxes of em and if you burn it up, who cares!

I also have some really smart chargers for my model planes. They do lithiums, Metal Hydride and lead acid. They show charge rate, amp in and time with a nice digital readout. They are limited to around 5 amps though but will charge 48v DC.

I always saved one of the thick shims for last. Was a B**&^ to get in but worked.

Thats what is nice about the GM corps, they have a nut for preload.

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 11, 2015, 05:27:29 AM »
Here is is about an hour later. Looking good for just 6v@800ma.

Put a better hanger on it too to make sure it was grounded good, but the regular chargers would not touch it!!

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 11, 2015, 05:14:58 AM »
I checked the bucket to be sure the hubs would fit first. First I knocked the races out.

Mixed the soda water and hung them in.

Bubbling good so we will see.

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 11, 2015, 05:11:03 AM »
Well, finally got around to making my electrolytic rust remover.

The only real issue I had is my 2 smart chargers WONT work! They like to see voltage and adjust as they go. I tried and tried and finally dug out a 6v DC car charger and I had bubbles!! Just 800ma so it may take a little longer so a PC power supply might be next.

First was four 8 inch pieces of rebar. They were held in with #14 copper wire from the outside.

Build Threads / Re: Kyle's LBZ Build
« on: March 11, 2015, 01:41:55 AM »
I don't like the gouges in those springs. Should be able to get the strap back in place.

Yep, shes a salt truck!!

How many limes on the LBZ?

Darn those switches are purdy, to bad they are so pricey!!

Not much room in the glove box for gloves with that.

I do slightly question the wiring through the passenger floor. Isn't that a fairly high wear area?

Build Threads / Re: Zombie Ford F-350
« on: March 10, 2015, 10:01:57 PM »
Man it is getting busy around here, and the cummins are here in force.

Site Rules & Introductions / Re: Another one from TX
« on: March 10, 2015, 03:42:37 PM »
Welcome aboard, we all got sorta sucked in. DOT on the loose!!!!!!

Build Threads / Re: Show off your Truck!!
« on: March 10, 2015, 10:31:57 AM »
I had to do a double take on that Sammy. Other than the tires, it looks identical to the one I just sold....even missing the front bumper!

I looked for the stock wheels to keep it narrow, tires are a size up and new. Had to cut all the stock hangers off will build a nice bumper to mount a 4500# winch with synthetic line. When I got the tracker motor $500 (1.6 vs 1.3-bolt in with a simple plate) I got the seats too and sold the carcus for $400. It should be a nice hunting/fishing rig.

I see scouts all over here. There was a guy in Vallejo that had a whole bunch in a garage, mostly rust free too.

Had to through that in Don. We have all been waiting and the DOTs are getting restless!! I can't be all bad, I did find you guys, right?

Re-reading I saw where you use a breaker on the cv nut. I just hit myine with a air gun and they break loose easy. For torquing though, I just wait till I'm done when the wheel is on the ground and have a 3/4 bar for that.

Oh, and I carry an extra hub. Got a cheapo for like $50, but when you need one you need one!!!

Well, from what I am seeing looks like the 2wd box is the way to go. Going to rebuild anyway and add ram assist ports.

Build Threads / Re: Show off your Truck!!
« on: March 09, 2015, 08:02:51 PM »
^^^^ What's that roller skate girl truck thing doing here?
I would have kept that a secret there JR!  :)

It fits in the toy hauler and is street legal unlike a quad.

Build Threads / Re: Show off your Truck!!
« on: March 09, 2015, 07:28:31 PM »
Ok, I"ll bite.

2006 LBZ, 110k, leveled with 17 wheels, DSP5. Just got a 6 inch lift since it needs tires and maybe Ill put on the HD bumpers then too.

My flip and swap subs, both 91s. 1500 gets flipped, 2500 gets a 6BT and 0ne ton axles (all in hand)

1987 El Camino, 400k+ miles, just put in another 200r4 and have a complete 5.3 swap for it on the floor.

1986 Samurai, got a 1.6 tracker motor for it, 6;1 t case kit.

What are you drilling those holes with? Looks all pushed in. Is that how Don drills holes?

Ah, that looks all better with the inserts in.

Build Threads / Re: Miss Daisy's Resto
« on: March 09, 2015, 12:26:58 PM »
I almost ordered china fenders for my sub, glad I just got the gm from the boneyard

The tires look OK to, not a bad deal at all. I saw a set on ebay for over 4k!!!!!!!

Ahh, SD will never run,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Solid vs IFS will always be a debate. Ride vs flex etc,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Been through a couple hubs on mine at 100k but will do new ones again with the lift. That should help too with less angle.

I have also lost on upper ball joint, but that was easy. The IFS hubs are also build so they cannot just come apart.

CIEMR / Re: Northern Lights
« on: March 08, 2015, 09:35:48 PM »
We're being invaded!!!!!


Saw this on the way out of a campground I go to just south of Carson Pass.

Just what we need, DOT's gone wild

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 06, 2015, 06:17:13 PM »
Norm, you have this one for now.

I am going to set something up to hold and turn as I weld (something for something else but will cross over)

Enlighten us please!!

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 06, 2015, 11:14:03 AM »
Great questions you DOT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I am looking for more like a 4.5 bs and saw they are using 8-10oz of airsoft.

Nice trailer.  My utility trailer is about rusted away so I may have to start looking for one of those.

Okay, I'll bite?

Where might I have seen that tower before? 

I haven't seen it yet, but

I was "told" it was used in American Sniper and much of the film was done in the area at a ranch used just for military movies.

Dang thats alot of boost for it to kick in at. Not for cruzing but running huh. You going run a mix or just water?

I run a 20% alcohol, but have something wrong in mine and haven't figured it out yet. Think its in the lines.

Are you going to run a KIA proof cover over the pump?

The angle looks good from here. How much spline engagement do you have?

Maybe just a heatshield will be enough. Can't change the underhood temp much but that would keep the direct heat off.

I can't really see what the small part is, dark and black gloves!

Com-on, fire it up!!

Just checked and Summit has em and they send out $20 off $100 all the time.


I had something very similar in my 77. It was metal though and had a locking center section.

Mine was bolted through the cab and they included some cool break of nuts on a wand for mounting. Loved it!!

Tires, Wheels, and Suspension / Re: Mud tire thread
« on: March 05, 2015, 02:55:45 PM »
I had a set of the Yoko geolanders sometime back. They were just a tad large for my max but boy did they work great. Even ran them in about 6 inches of snow and they had great traction!

I know you like your aggressive tires though Don.

I have 55k on my Toyos right now, be looking soon too. 

CIEMR / Re: Obamas Executive orders
« on: March 05, 2015, 02:26:33 PM »
I understand all that Don, I get alot of the same training.

I think like many I am frustrated at what is happening and want to see someone do something before it really blows up.

(where's that head-band sticky)

Stainless and nutzerts work for me and will look good.

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 05, 2015, 01:11:15 AM »
Ok, but the 14bt I have now is 67. If I add the drw hubs I get a 72in wms to wms, right?

But if I have spacers and have to run a standard H1 wheel I can, leaving the front and rear as is at 67in (+ the spacers) for a 72in wms. if I recenter the wheels.

Maybe I am making this harder than it needs be, thats why I am asking.

I am just a little concerned about running spacers all the time. They are alum, but so are many wheels. However they are billet vs cast for the wheels. 2 more spacers will run me $70. 5 centers run about $250, plus the work to mount em, maybe machine to true em up too.

Have you re-centered any Norm?

CIEMR / Re: Obamas Executive orders
« on: March 05, 2015, 12:57:48 AM »
If there are any real leaders left in the military, when do they step in, please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or am I missing something????????

CIEMR / Re: Don's been moonlighting and he made it to Ca!!
« on: March 04, 2015, 11:52:08 PM »
You know, you can't just make up some of this stuff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

How do you think he funds these builds!!!!!!!!!!!

CIEMR / Don's been moonlighting and he made it to Ca!!
« on: March 04, 2015, 10:00:12 PM »
Saw him in a gas station, well the truck said it was him,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 04, 2015, 09:56:15 PM »
Kinda looking at it all, sorta a tossup. The "option" of grabbing almost any 8 lug and run it has an appeal, just as not recentering does.

With a little more research the front dually setup will be to wide. However the rear will work just fine. For the front I can just run the spacers I have and I could remove those if needed because turning would be an issue. For the rear, sticking out some until repaired would not be a big deal. Plus the tracts seem to be getting wider all the time.

So right now to run it I need rear drw hubs, axles are the same. To recenter, that would only apply to the truck, not the trailer or spare for it as the tract is not really adjustable anyway easy.

I am still leaning to running the H1s as is and do the dually rear hubs. for the rear discs, thats another thing I need to look at too.

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 04, 2015, 04:10:03 AM »
Something just occurred to me and maybe you guys can help me out or even have them laying around to check.

So, I need spacers ( 85+ 14bt with 67in wms) to run the stock H1 wheels or I have to recenter the wheels because of 7in backspace.

If I went to dually hubs front and back wouldn't that allow me to run the H1 wheels as they are? Plus I don't need to get or weld centers to my wheels.

From what I am seeing the DRW is 72in wms to wms, so I would get what would be like adding a 2.5 spacer.

Not sure if the front is the same but that is why I'm asking.

Lots of work don there BD. With the addition of the new bumper, the current snorkel and the roof rack. Seeing the thing coming at you or in your rear view will just be intimidating as H*&L.

Hmm, like the idea of the new intake elbow. Someone may have suggested it before,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Just looked at my hood and I have a dent where louvers would cover it right up. 

I have seen those used on a few builds, good idea.

You know with the hood off you could just have added to your hood. But then again with everything else bolted on and hanging out on SD whats a few more on the hood.

Build Threads / Re: 1991 Suburban 2500 build and 6BT
« on: March 03, 2015, 04:14:52 AM »
Well, made a little trip as I stated down south and got a M1101 trailer, but mines Camo. For $800 and I got a spare tire.

Got the elky tranny in just before I left and a few parts came in also. Found all my lines and a set of internal hubs for the 60.

For the hubs I am going to use the electrolysis rust tank.

Looking good BD as is the norm.

Jeusssssssss, just add a little fuel to hear it pop at least.

I was thinking ducting all the time too. Something right from the grill or off the side of the shroud? That way you get air fast or slow like the radiator.

How thick are those rods for the cleaner. I am seeing carbon welding rods in 3/8in. Will those work or do you need to remove the coating?

Got my 60 hubs and they need a good cleaning, thought I would try that anode cleaner.

Closer to 3/4 in.  You don't have to use Carbon gouging rod, you can use rebar too.  The Carbon rods just make for a cleaner process.  The nice thing about electrolytic cleaning is that threads and other delicate surfaces will not be damaged.  Only the rust is removed.

Thx, I did couple searches and found that some were using rebar. Picked up some soda today and I have rebar so I am set.

How thick are those rods for the cleaner. I am seeing carbon welding rods in 3/8in. Will those work or do you need to remove the coating?

Got my 60 hubs and they need a good cleaning, thought I would try that anode cleaner.

Build Threads / Re: Kyle's LBZ Build
« on: March 02, 2015, 01:10:20 AM »
Same color and year as mine!! This will be good.

I have the CTS to and love it. I used Idaho Rob and have a DSP5.

Do the EGR fast, there is alot of crud in there.

CIEMR / Re: Reshaping of our military...for what purpose??
« on: March 01, 2015, 11:20:45 PM »
Yes I have been hearing about this for some time now. Then as I was helping my son with a JFK report, I found this and wish he had;

here is another showing the same 120* spacing for the gov-loc. Another pic showed you can see the clutch plates too without opening the case.

I thought the 14bt rears were all 4 spider setups and you added a locker the the housings. I am no expert either by any means.

I have blown MANY 12 bolt (gm 8.875) rears but hear of few 14bt or 11.5aam doing that.

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