The Oracle...Jared's Corner

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Jared did not start this, I did. I did because it is my custom to recognize intelligence and at times brilliance (No, not you Tex, Shawn,Ken ;-) And push them into the limelight.

So Jared has shown himself worthy of advising men who, have questions about building techniques, has shown himself to restrain the DOT in him (Unlike others here) and I believe is capable of herding cats (Managing the men here).

Therefore by the authority vested in me (Cause I pay the bills!) here on this noble web site, I hereby knight thee, Sir Jared, and declare he be from this day fortwith

"Knower and Sayer of All Things Buildith" (NATB)

So let it be written, so let it be done.

Set by decree on this, the day the third day of the twelveth month in the year of our Lord, two thousand and seventeen.

Now get your butt busy!


Your advice has been very helpful on my build.

Would appreciate a discussion of window installation since there is much conflicting information and that is where a lot of leaks occur.

Wood frame construction with tyvek. Fiberglass windows.

I’m planning on using the flex flashing seal on the bottoms and up the side about 6 inches. Cutting house wrap flap at top. Caulk three sides and flash tape sides then top. Going to try to beat the sill up and use shims to make the slope outward since I didn’t plan it when I Built it.

Why the extra housewrap/moisture barrier apron below the window when tyvek is already in place??? 

Help a novice please.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jared Herzog:
It sounds like you are on the right track with your installation plan. I have installed both vinyl windows and aluminum. I will give some installation thoughts.
I go back and forth in the debate over aluminum vs vinyl. Each group swears their chosen type is best. They both have strong points and weak points. Here are some of my personal pros and cons for each. Personally i have no preference and just install what a customer has chosen.
No rot
Easy to replace glass and other parts
Transfer of hot and cold
Prone to sweat in the winter
Status as a cheap window

Easy nail flange for installation
Easy to replace glass and parts
Much less transfer of hot and cold
Less window sweating
Better r value due to thermal transfer
Deterioration. This is supposed to be fixed with new formulations.  But, most windows we have to switch out are vinyl due to hail breaking the brittle vinyl. Plastics vs the sun in Texas and the sun wins. 

When purchasing standard windows aluminum and vinyl have different rough openings. Usually***** For discussion I will consider a 3’0” X5’0”. Vinyl rough opening would be 3’1/2”X5’1/2” where the aluminum would be 3’X5’ even. This can change and to get around this if the openings were done backwards would be to special order or alter the rough openings.
Here is a brief rundown of how i install a window. If using the zip system use their tape on the sill and window. I have used the zip system once now and there are good and bad sides to the product. I am not a fan yet.
The house wrap system has a bit different process and that is the one i will spend the most time explaining.
Before i start i cut the tyvek to wrap into the window opening. The top can be cut without wrapping it inside the opening but i wrap it in. This gives me a layer between the window and wood to provide a moisture barrier for the sweating that may occur.
Then i use the moist stop product to wrap the sill and sides up six inches. I am of the opinion that the moist stop product helps because when windows sweat the moisture runs down hill. Due to wrapping the tyvek in you end up with a triangle in the corner that is exposed. It is this corner or corners that will see the most moisture due to gravity and if the window is not perfectly level the water will favor one side. Also, i have had water pass through tyvek. I do not think it should but when we use the stuff to cover holes in roofing or to use as a tarp temporarily water passes. The moist stop will not pass moisture. But, it will not breathe either. Hence why it is used in smaller areas. Just a different product with a different purpose.
The moist stop gets lined up on the inside and extends out. The corners get cut and the product folded over the outer edge. Staple the horizontal piece to the sheeting. Then the sides get folded over but not stapled. I then cut two 6” by 12” pieces one for each corner. This piece goes over the horizontal piece and under the side piece then everything is stapled. These pieces end up pretty diagonal for best coverage. Just do your best to layer the products and shed water out. Any exposed or bad areas then can be taped over with window tape.
The next step is to read the installation instructions for the window you are putting in. They all vary in small ways. Some will want the perimeter siliconed before install. Some will not. Some will require some site applied silicone for best performance and the instructions list these areas. They are usually the upper corners. Some will have a fastener pattern that must be used to retain warranty as well. Then fasten the window to the opening. Most manufacturers will void the warranty if a nail gun is used. They are brutal in their impact of the fastener and this leads to windows which bind. The vinyl windows have a fastener flange. The metal windows need pilot holes drilled. I find the hole is best to drill because it minimizes the risk of damage to a window when you try to hammer a nail through or force a screw to bore through the metal mounting flange.
I use two speed squares to lift the window off the sill which aids in leveling it. Center the window in the opening from side to side. Level the window. Make sure the gap at the top is neither too large or too small. If it is too large add lumber to close the gap at this time. If it is too small use paint stir sticks to reduce the bottom gap. I use a mix of one gallon and five gallon sticks for spacers. This pattern of spacing and gapping should be consistent with all the windows so they do not end up at different levels. This is important if windows are close to each other and trimmed out as a unit.
From here i check everything about the window and its function. Once fastened i window tape the sides and top. There are different thoughts on taping the bottom. Here is what i do since i use moist stop. I tape the bottom leaving a small gap in the center which lacks tape. About 1/2” so water can get out. This keeps it sealed up well for air penetration. Moisture will be able to get out between the moist stop and tyvek already since the window tape does not reach that horizontal area.
These are the steps I use. I have had good luck with them but there are other methods as well that are correct.

Jared Herzog:
Here are two images of a window i did recently. The tape on the bottom runs the length but does not show the slit in the center for any moisture to drain out. You can see how i did the moist stop, tyvek, and tape.

Welcome to the team Jared

Good luck herding the cats  around here

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